Scarring on transmission input shaft housing (Page 2/2) Indy-453 FEB 11, 12:00 AM Sat down at lunch, found a diagram and parts list on the internet, and came up with this; With shipping its $120 (has to come from 3 different warehouses). A lot better then the $600 kit they found. Now when I cross check this against various threads here on the forums its pretty much the same. The only difference is the bearing differentials, This thread shows 9437733 which is a Timken Set 11. Going on the timken catalog these bearings seem to have the same dimensions. On Rock Auto the Timken Set 11 is cheaper then buying the bearings and races individually, and it comes from the same warehouse as the other parts, cutting down shipping costs. Its now $104 all in to get them here in 10 days. That would definitely make rebuilding the transmission worth it in my opinion. The original quote to braise the input shaft and replace the bearing with their kit would be $1275, which is more then I paid for the car. Then again I rebuilt an iron duke so who am I kidding... It would be great to find a set of synchronizer blocking rings, mine are "worn but usable". Ive found one so far on Ebay but it is $45 (usd!!), and I would still need to find 3 more. Will FEB 11, 02:20 PM I put together a FrankenMuncie* for a customer a while back. I still have the leftovers from assembling that transmission. You're welcome to the parts, although shipping would get expensive. * 4 cylinder MY8 "econo" Muncie 3rd, 4th and 3.32 final with 6 cylinder M17 Muncie reinforced case, 1st and 2nd gears. Indy-453 FEB 12, 12:32 AM quote Originally posted by Will: I put together a FrankenMuncie* for a customer a while back. I still have the leftovers from assembling that transmission. You're welcome to the parts, although shipping would get expensive. * 4 cylinder MY8 "econo" Muncie 3rd, 4th and 3.32 final with 6 cylinder M17 Muncie reinforced case, 1st and 2nd gears. Interesting proposition! So I am assuming you would have the M17's 3.65 final drive still available. Lets do some math With the 4.1 final drive and 205 60 R 15 Tires (GT tires) With a M17 3.65 final drive but keeping the 0.73 over drive gear So switching final drives would reduce engine RPM at high speed but also reduce acceleration. The thing I don't like about the M19 (on paper since ive never driven it!) is that at highway speeds (100 - 115 km/h) the engine is turning at 2600 - 3000 RPM, where as the M17 would be 2300-2600 RPM. Cruising around town speeds of 50-60 km/h would be 2200 - 2600 RPM in 3rd or 1300 - 1600 RPM in 4th. Not really ideal on either side. The M17 Gears would put 50 - 60 km/h at 1900-2300 RPM in 3rd which seems just about perfect, but 4th is out of the question now. Has anyone done this at all? I'm really intrigued about how the acceleration changes with the different ratios. pmbrunelle FEB 12, 11:13 AM quote Originally posted by Indy-453: With a M17 3.65 final drive but keeping the 0.73 over drive gear If you use the M17 final drive (well, the countershaft with integrated diff pinion), you have to use the M17 3rd and 4th gears that are compatible with that countershaft. quote Originally posted by Indy-453: The thing I don't like about the M19 (on paper since ive never driven it!) is that at highway speeds (100 - 115 km/h) the engine is turning at 2600 - 3000 RPM, where as the M17 would be 2300-2600 RPM. Would the RPM bother you if there was no tachometer to allow you to see the number? Concerned about noise? Fuel economy? quote Originally posted by Indy-453: Cruising around town speeds of 50-60 km/h would be 2200 - 2600 RPM in 3rd or 1300 - 1600 RPM in 4th. I have M19 gearing in my V6 Fiero (modified, but similar low-end torque to stock V6), and I cruise around at 1325 RPM in 4th gear at 45 km/h in quiet neighborhood streets. People here on the forum say the Iron Duke is as torquey down low as the V6 (if not more), so that might work out OK. Well, The M19/Duke combo should work out fine, as it was offered stock by GM... (not discounting the possibility of OEMs making huge mistakes).