Horn button problems (Page 2/3)
Wittendorf1986 AUG 11, 11:11 PM
Well i took some pictures but I couldn't figure out how to post them with my phone. Is the something on the horn button the hits the steering wheel nut that I possibly missing that could be the reason it is not grounding out with the contact
Rsvl-Rider AUG 11, 11:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by Wittendorf1986:

Well i took some pictures but I couldn't figure out how to post them with my phone. Is the something on the horn button the hits the steering wheel nut that I possibly missing that could be the reason it is not grounding out with the contact



Nope. It's all in those three little pieces.

How firmly are you pressing? I find that I have to press very firmly on my horn button to make it work. Are you using the stock Fiero GT horn button?

If you have those three pieces installed correctly, and you are getting good metal-to-metal contact with the metal pin to the back of the horn button, then you might need to check the horn ring. That requires removing the steering wheel and the locking ring. If you don't have the right tools you can get loaners from some auto parts shops like O'Riellys. When I was having problems with my GT (the horn would go off by itself on hard right turns) I had to get down to the horn ring and clean it up. There was lots of crud which I guess was preventing good electrical contact. I don't understand exactly how but I haven't had the problem since.

You really need to be able to post pics. It my be a pain but send the pics from your phone to your computer and then use the PIP feature to upload them.
Wittendorf1986 AUG 12, 12:08 AM
I press pretty hard i have a 85 se so it not gt it hard to see if it actually makes contact or not I took the vinly off again on and did some more adjusting on the contacts I see if I can figure out how to post pics
fierofool AUG 12, 09:04 AM
The 2 metal plates on the back of the horn button transfers ground through the 3 latching fingers. They have to be making contact with the metal portion of the steering wheel. Be sure they are spread far enough to maintain contact with the perimeter of the wheel. The pin stays in constant contact with one plate. When the button is pressed, that makes contact with the other attaching plate with the latching fingers. Be sure the two contact surfaces of the plates are clean. Since you have the vinyl off, scuff the plates with ScotchBrite, maybe.
TT Slick AUG 29, 04:03 PM
Can someone tell me the length of the plastic piece and the aluminum "nail" piece? I am trying to reinstate my original steering wheel and I have lost these pieces long ago.

Much thanks!
fierofool AUG 29, 10:43 PM

quote
Originally posted by TT Slick:

Can someone tell me the length of the plastic piece and the aluminum "nail" piece? I am trying to reinstate my original steering wheel and I have lost these pieces long ago.

Much thanks!



I have the pieces I can send you or bring to the September meeting, if you'll tell me what headlights you said you used.
TT Slick AUG 30, 10:28 AM
Hello there, I had a good time in Stone Mountain! Great to see you guys again. The lights I used are Pilot Driving/Fog Light part number NV-540. I liked these because they have glass lenses. I am still working to get my A/C fixed so I don't know if I can make the meeting, it's a long hot drive between here and Atl. I am going to try to make it though. Back to the horn button I have some of the pieces I just need to know how long they are to see if they will work.

Regards
Tom
fierofool AUG 30, 02:12 PM
At least make RFTH.

The horn pin is 1 3/4 inches. The black plastic piece is 1 1/8 inches. The spring inside diameter is just slightly larger than the pin so the pin won't bind. Email your address if you want these pieces. And thank you for the lighting information.
ArthurPeale AUG 25, 09:29 AM
bumping this, because I'm having a similar issue.

'86 SE, which HAD the paddles, but I swapped the steering wheel with one from my 86 GT.

If I ground the center nut to the terminal the horn sounds.

The horn button has perfect continuity, checked with a meter.

Where the button clips onto the wheel, there is NO continuity between that and the center nut - which means it's not grounding.

I guess my question is - why would that not connect to the center nut? As near as I can see it's all one assembly.

ONLY thing I can think of is that when I installed the steering wheel I put some grease on the shaft to make it easier to remove if I had to - would that have electrically isolated it? I didn't use very much, but I can think of no other reason for its isolation.


There's LOTS of information on the forum for the paddle type, but virtually none for the GT center button type.
Vintage-Nut AUG 25, 11:53 AM
Perhaps this thread with photos will help.....

87 GT HORN WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDED by wantafiero
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...060206-2-065364.html

In this link is another link by Jazzman
https://www.crankshaftcoali...ing_Rack_Rebuild.pdf

And on page 65 of Jazzman's write-up, it shows:

quote
Wheels with a center button style horn use a captive plunger. The spring pushes the "nail" or plunger up against
a metal plate in the underside of the horn button. When the horn button is depressed the metal plate contacts the
horn latch clips and provides a ground path through the column to activate the horn relay.



------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 08-25-2024).]