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| Europeen style 3800 turbo swap - what do you think ? (Page 11/14) |
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Frenchrafe
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OCT 07, 03:00 PM
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I've been running the car for a few weeks now with the new knock sensors and while WOT accelerations are good, it seems to hesitate or stumble at partial throttle once warmed up after driving for 20 or 30 minutes. Rather like a slight misfire?
I ran the codes with my new bluetooth dongle thingy and got the following:
341 intermittent cam signal 361 EST line not toggling 131 engine O2 sensor low 171 fuel trim lean
For the last two codes (131 and 171) I have noticed that I have a very slighty cracked exhaust manifold. This could be giving a slight lean condition in the exhaust. This will be one of the winter jobs to take it off and weld it up (again!) - probably sleeve and reinforce the tube prone to cracking.
For the 341, I have tested insitu the cam sensor: It is at 6.6V on its signal which then drops to 0.001V when the cam button/magnet/interupter passes the sensor. It seems to work as it should, but maybe the sensor and/or cam button are weak? Any ideas from the 3800 gurus out there would be much appreciated ?
For the 361 code, I havn't found any decent advice when I google the code. Is it related with the 341?
Thanks for any help.
Rafe
------------------ '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!
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Frenchrafe
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JUN 04, 05:20 PM
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Hi everyone, Been a while since I updated. Finaly got round to putting the battery up front:

I did some other stuff like change the cam sensor + magnet, adjust the camber allround (slotted upper arms on the front etc...) plus a bunch of other little things that I couldn't be bothered to photographe!
However, I have been using the car quite alot for shows, trackdays and (quite rare in my part of France) my first 2 day drag race! I havn't done a drag race in over 10 years, and the last time was at Santa Pod where L only made 2 runs, with not very good times! This time, it was nearly "no limits" - you could run just about every 10minites if you lined up after each pass. Here is a picture of the Fiero just in front of a rocket car (I'm driving through the paddock):

So what you really want to know is "how quick I went?" Well faster off the line than your BMW M3, that's for sure:

In fact, I consistantly ran very low 13's, and pretty much smashed most of the other cars there! Apart from one Civic type R with all the expensive goodies. He would catch up about halfway through and fly past at 10mph faster than me at the 1/4 mile. He cooked his clutch however trying to hold the power at 25/30+psi!! Here is a photo mashup with my best time:

Yes! 12.994!
Last picture for this post - going back very happy!

Best regards, Rafe ------------------ '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard![This message has been edited by Frenchrafe (edited 07-11-2019).]
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Frenchrafe
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DEC 19, 08:05 AM
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Hello everyone and Merry Christmas Holidays! Just a few photos and words concerning a little mod that I have done recently.
I have fitted a small extractor fan to help exit the heat in the engine bay and help cool my coil packs. I know this has been done loads of times before me, but I just like to share my setup which was inspired from my summertime experiences at the only drag race in western France this year.
While lined up for the start I was behind this BMW engine powered Opel, and I remarked how his cooling fans were constantly on, even at idle:

Now certainly his car was a fully race prepped car and the fans were on a separate switched circuit. But it got me thinking how to do this without hacking the Fiero circuits to bits and adding too many switches in the cabin etc...
My solution was to use two relays and the existing trunk fan circuit. Here's my super circuit diagram: (Sorry, no computer aided drawing!)

Basically, I just take the trunk fan switching via the PCM or whatever and add a fuse and another power relay to run the fan. However, I wanted to go one step further to "force" this fan and the others (main cooling fan, my oil cooler fan) to run constantly if I wanted at a race day. But I still wanted "normal" functionning just when driving on the road. Now because the trunk fan circuit is negative switching and when the car is turned off, the switching is contantly grounded, it needed a second relay and a couple of switches. In effect, I can choose to run this engine compartment fan with the others or not at all. But the best thing is that I can force all the fans to run constantly with the flick of a switch. (If you ground the green/white wire of the trunk fan circuit, the main cooling fan switches on.) I've kept the switches in the engine compartment so that I don't forget to switch back to "normal" mode after the race while I'm checking under the decklid for oïl leaks, coolant blowouts, turbo disintergration, thrown rods etc...Ha Ha!. And to keep all the wiring extras just by the new fan in case I need to unplug my mess in a hurry without having to rip open my dashboard on the side of the road.
Here is the system fonctionning (grill removed for the photo):


The switches:

Now just a last photo of an end of summer meeting in order to keep our spirits up during the winter.
 (And yes I'm more low to the ground than the Porsche!)
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, Rafe
------------------ '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard![This message has been edited by Frenchrafe (edited 12-19-2019).]
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ericjon262
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DEC 24, 01:38 PM
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I have my doubts your flywheel issue had anything to do with the bolts, there are many documented cases of aluminum flywheels having "Creep" problems which is the tendency of the aluminum, under pressure of the bolts, to compress, and flow out from under the bolts, causing the bolts to appear to loosen. Many guys who have run the aluminum flywheels have ended up replacing them with iron after having problems, and using the same spec bolts without problem.
it looks like those were ARP flywheel bolts, I guarantee they are higher quality than stock bolts. ------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich." http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html
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Larryinkc
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DEC 24, 07:31 PM
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Back in my youth we always used washers on any bolts that were against anything aluminum on small block Chevy motors. Steel hex bolt heads will chew into aluminum intake manifolds, valve covers, timing covers or water pumps.
I thing that most aluminum flywheel problems are caused by this same problem. I have had a Spec aluminum flywheel on my 3800 swap for about 6 years and 7000 miles. I don't abuse it but I don't baby it either, no problems.
The bolt holes in the Spec flywheel are oversized so I sleeved the bolt holes with steel tube that was a slight press fit and just slightly larger ID than the bolts.
I got some Grade 9 1" bolts and washers from McMaster Carr. I think using the 11 ft lbs + 50 degrees method is a good way to go. GM uses this spec to get the proper clamp load on the flywheel to crank joint. At 11 ft lbs there isn't much effect from friction and using the 50 degree additional rotation all the bolts should be very close in tensile load making the flywheel to crank joint pretty close to what GM intended it to be.
I found the manufacturer specs on the bolts and they give a torque spec on their Grade 9 5/16-18 bolts of 36 ft lbs with a thick nut and 14 ft lbs with a waxed locknut. I used a spacer the same thickness as the Spec flywheel with a new bolt, washer and standard Grade 8 nut and tightened it with a bending beam torque wrench. The torque increased to about 44 ft lbs and remained at that point as I kept turning until the bolt broke. I repeated this four times with new bolts and nuts with the same result. Based on a 75% load factor that gives a torque of 33 ft lbs for these bolts with the Grade 8 nuts at the same thickness as the Spec flywheel.
Next I used a new bolt, washer and nut with the flywheel spacer and tightened it to 130 in lbs. I put a torque angle gauge between the torque wrench and the bolt, with the wrench set to 32 ft lbs, and tightened it. The torque wrench clicked over close to 50 degrees every time, sometimes a few degrees short of 50 and sometimes a little over 50. Based on this experiment I think the GM specs with some Loctite would be the best way to install the Spec flywheel with these Grade 9 bolts and washers.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/131343.html
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La fiera
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DEC 24, 11:27 PM
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Nice job! And I'm glad you are enjoying your proyect at a road course, the best place for a Fiero! I really like the color of our car! What green is it?
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Frenchrafe
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DEC 26, 04:19 AM
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For the flywheel, yes it probably was the aluminium that compressed. That's why I sleeved the holes and pressed and fettled out the sleeve to take up where the flywheel metal had changed shape. Afterwards, I just put the stock bolts that have a larger head and therefore a larger contact surface. Better load spreading! It's held together since.
For the car colour, it's two shades of metalic maserati green. I don't remember the references, but they're colours from the 1970s. I remember seeing this kind of car when I was young:  [This message has been edited by Frenchrafe (edited 12-26-2019).]
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wftb
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DEC 26, 11:40 AM
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A Ghibli (sp?) beautiful car.
What wheel/tire combo are you using? I know that info might be in here somewhere but I did not notice it. Car looks well planted in the track day pics. ------------------ 86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo rear SLA suspension QA1 coilovers on tube arms
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La fiera
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DEC 26, 10:57 PM
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Saba Rafe! Its a 1974 Maserati Khamsin, I'll have my friend who owns a body shop look it up for me!
Merci
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Frenchrafe
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DEC 27, 02:18 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by wftb:
What wheel/tire combo are you using? I know that info might be in here somewhere but I did not notice it. Car looks well planted in the track day pics.
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Original 15" lace wheels with Toyo Proxes 225/50 up front and 235/50 on the rear.

I would like to put 235/60s on the rear to fill out the wheel well a little better, but it's hard to find 15 inch track day tyres in 60 section? Yoko used to make some but I haven't seen them in ages (available in Europe). I might cough up the import taxes one day and order Mickey Thomson drag radials for the rear…. ...one day!
Pour La Fiera: pas de problème. Je suis content que ça t'avait plu!
------------------ '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard![This message has been edited by Frenchrafe (edited 12-27-2019).]
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