DO *NOT* CUT YOUR COOLANT TUBES! (Page 1/1)
Will DEC 24, 09:15 PM
('84-'87 cars) Once the bolt attaching the pipe to the front suspension crossmember is out, you can R&R the coolant tubes WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND. I've done it. You need a good bit of room to the sides, though.

YOU DO *NOT* NEED TO CUT THE TUBES.

-Park the car on a flat, level surface
-You MUST remove the front tub/bucket. That takes ~20 minutes your first time and 5-10 thereafter. It's covered elsewhere on this forum.
-Remove the small bolt attaching the tube to the crossmember
-Drain the cooling system
-Disconnect the hoses at each end of the tube
-Remove the clamps below the door holding the tube to the underbody
-Turn the steering all the way away from the side you're working on
-Swing the tube out to the side and thread the front section around the front suspension
-Remove the tube

Do the opposite to reinstall.
Since the stainless socket drain plugs frequently round out, I replace them with external hex brass drainplugs as well.

I'm posting this because of the horrifyimg things I saw in this thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/142090.html
theogre DEC 24, 11:32 PM
Thanks,
Never had to remove one and most old posts say lift the car.

Watch the brake lines.
LF line is attach to spare tire wall/well and can easily wreck it. Plastic "brackets" holds that line to wall often breaks so use nylon ties to hold it after. They don't need to be pulled tight, just hold the line.
Can't remember for sure but left pipe runs close to brake lines to the combi valve.

Yes Cutting the pipes to remove is iffy even when pipes are damage to start. Many have little choice to cut damage sections but more cuts the more risk of leaking or blowout when 1 section of the pipe is unsupported w/o adding extra hardware like bent or rust to rear of pipe.

You often don't need to flare etc but must make sure the pipe can't move and blow off/out of the hose.
Over tighten a clamp doesn't make the joint better... Often does the opposite and wreck the hose that fails.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-25-2018).]

Raydar DEC 25, 06:38 AM
A bit O/T, but I was truly amazed at how easy it was/is to remove the coolant tubes from an 88.
Will DEC 26, 08:06 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Thanks,
Never had to remove one and most old posts say lift the car.

Watch the brake lines.
LF line is attach to spare tire wall/well and can easily wreck it. Plastic "brackets" holds that line to wall often breaks so use nylon ties to hold it after. They don't need to be pulled tight, just hold the line.
Can't remember for sure but left pipe runs close to brake lines to the combi valve.

Yes Cutting the pipes to remove is iffy even when pipes are damage to start. Many have little choice to cut damage sections but more cuts the more risk of leaking or blowout when 1 section of the pipe is unsupported w/o adding extra hardware like bent or rust to rear of pipe.

You often don't need to flare etc but must make sure the pipe can't move and blow off/out of the hose.
Over tighten a clamp doesn't make the joint better... Often does the opposite and wreck the hose that fails.



With the front bucket out, the technician should be able to see any potential hangup/interference problems before they become problems.
Good point about the brake line attaching to the bucket.
For a crushed tube, the best repair is frequently to cut the tube at the crush, swage it round again, then weld it back together. This is AFTER removing it, however.
solotwo DEC 31, 11:29 PM
Awesome information