any suggestions on how to remove these?

Unless you have access to a single point/post lift, you can't from old posts here. (Other lift types can block the pipes.)
Maybe not even first removing plastic spare tire well/wall.

You need to lift the car high to get clearance in front.

Notes:
Pipe(s) have two brackets you see easy and a stud w/ nut near radiator hoses in front.
There is a brake line attach to tire wall.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-19-2018).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: Unless you have access to a single point/post lift, you can't from old posts here. (Other lift types can block the pipes.) Maybe not even first removing plastic spare tire well/wall. You need to lift the car high to get clearance in front. Notes: Pipe(s) have two brackets you see easy and a stud w/ nut near radiator hoses in front. There is a brake line attach to tire wall.

There is also some type of clamp holding it down under the tire well. What were they thinking??? Looks like they figured it out better on the 88's.

The interference point is at the back of the DS LCA.
The car needs to be raised high enough to work it out.
The front tub must be removed.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: The interference point is at the back of the DS LCA. The car needs to be raised high enough to work it out. The front tub must be removed.

DS???

LCA???

Driver side lower control arm....

Check Rodney Dickman's site. He has a kit for removing that coolant pipe. You cut it before it goes up over the suspension and use his kit to put things back together,,, if you don't mind the patch.



Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

I attempted to MIG/fluxcore weld it but ended up blowing through because it was thin in the first place and the split made it more vulnerable. So I did cut the tubing by the suspension and found a radiator hose that mimicked the turns at the proper places. Put them all in place loosely today and will tighten them all down Sunday double clamping at both ends.

👍🏼👍🏼

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: The front tub must be removed.

Everything ELSE in this thread is WRONG.

Once the bolt attaching the pipe to the front suspension crossmember is out, you can R&R the coolant tubes WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND. I've done it. You need a good bit of room to the sides, though.

-Park the car on a flat, level surface
-You MUST remove the front tub. That takes ~20 minutes your first time and 5-10 thereafter.
-Remove the small bolt attaching the tube to the crossmember
-Drain the cooling system
-Disconnect the hoses at each end of the tube
-Remove the clamps holding the tube to the underbody
-Swing the tube out to the side and thread the front section around the front suspension
-Remove the tube

Do the opposite to reinstall.
Since the stainless socket drain plugs frequently round out, I replace them with external hex brass drainplugs as well.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 12-24-2018).]