FieroGT/4E introduction (Page 1/13)
fierogt4e JUN 05, 07:21 PM
https://www.youtube.com/cha...oJ3CMtWvgEok8R-n3XRg

Fiero GT4E: introduction
by Fiero GT4e
Introducing the GT4E, a custom
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Sincerely
George

[This message has been edited by fierogt4e (edited 10-10-2016).]

Danyel JUN 05, 08:41 PM
Here you go !!!

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fierogt4e JUN 06, 06:32 PM
Thanks Danyel I needed the help.

My son did the YouTube video and all the editing. It's something we could do together. I'm not so good at some of the tech.

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Sincerely
George

fierogt4e JUN 06, 08:21 PM
Here is Little more info and some photos of the intake I am modding. You only see it for a moment in the video

On the left is a 3900 intake. Looks like rams horns. Not in my car. Long thin snout is not good for max power. I scraped it! On the right is a 3500, a better place to start I think. But can look and work better than stock.


Some of the ports are on the wrong side for a Fiero so I cut them out and made fillers


After welding and a little smoothing its time to ball mill the slots


I decided to go down some more just for looks.


This photo is kind of a bleary but I hope you can see it, the ball milling is done. When all of its done I'll paint the slots blue



I have a tube to do the throat and throttle body flange next

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Sincerely
George

[This message has been edited by fierogt4e (edited 06-06-2016).]

lou_dias JUN 08, 12:10 PM
What that rams horn does is put most of the airflow on the middle intakerunners so that the edge/outer runners aren't starved for air like cylinders 1 and 2 typically are in prior designs...
2.5 JUN 08, 01:56 PM
Nice detail work.
fierogt4e JUN 08, 11:13 PM
lou_Dias
“What that rams horn does is put most of the airflow on the middle intake runners”

Umm, ya.


“edge/outer runners aren't starved for air like cylinders 1 and 2 typically are in prior designs...”

Yes this is a problem in most intake manifolds. A large open plenum can sometimes help but may lose flow at some RPMs. Something that looks like a racing, equal length, exhaust header tends to work the best but they have limitations of there own. (looks, room...).


For those that are unfamiliar with this manifold it has a divider all the way down the middle, from just beyond the throttle body to the opposite end. The divider has an electronically controlled door that opens and closes to vary the size of the plenum.
I believe the 3900 rams horn style was quickly discontinued do to poor performance in favor of the 3500 open plenum type manifold. (no variable plenum) However they have smallish throats also, good for a naturally aspirated engine with only 280 HP max.

Thanks 2.5
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Sincerely
George

[This message has been edited by fierogt4e (edited 06-13-2016).]

fierogt4e JUN 08, 11:54 PM
The rear brakes are almost done. My hat to rotor bolts maybe to short and the the safety wire needs more practice. But soon.
fierogt4e JUN 12, 11:04 PM
Well, no one asked about the rear brakes but I'd like to tell you about them anyway.

Most of the parts that you can see came from Speedway Motors. The only parts I bought lately are the hat and rotor. Every thing ells was built prior to 97 when I had to put all the hobby stuff to the side.

The rotors are speedways own 12.18 OD, .810 wide, vented, cross drilled, and scalloped parts. I then tin/zinc plated them my self.

The hats are Wilwood's for a Subaru.

The main brake is a Howe Racing's aluminum, sliding caliper, unit with twin pistons.

The parking brake caliper is a wilwood part but under there badge it looks like an air-hart insignia. The cables are stock with a clevis from Lokar.

Stainless brake lines.

Stainless hardware from McMaster-Car.

As well as a new hub and bearing assembly.

All the brackets were fabbed by me and welded by a coworker.

At the center top of the picture you can only see a little bit of the McPherson strut mount. The two thick aluminum plates holding the spindle. They are part of a billet strut mount I made around 92 to move the strut in 1 inch for tire clearance, and it has many hard fast miles on it. The tops I moved in 1 1/4”.

I have 12” wide billet Weld Wheels with 315-17 35s on the back and in the fenders. The 12” rimes should have 335-17 on them but there were none in the US to buy from any one at the time.

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Sincerely
George

lou_dias JUN 12, 11:23 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt4e:

Well, no one asked about the rear brakes but I'd like to tell you about them anyway.

Most of the parts that you can see came from Speedway Motors. The only parts I bought lately are the hat and rotor. Every thing ells was built prior to 97 when I had to put all the hobby stuff to the side.

The rotors are speedways own 12.18 OD, .810 wide, vented, cross drilled, and scalloped parts. I then tin/zinc plated them my self.

The hats are Wilwood's for a Subaru.

The main brake is a Howe Racing's aluminum, sliding caliper, unit with twin pistons.

The parking brake caliper is a wilwood part but under there badge it looks like an air-hart insignia. The cables are stock with a clevis from Lokar.

Stainless brake lines.

Stainless hardware from McMaster-Car.

As well as a new hub and bearing assembly.

All the brackets were fabbed by me and welded by a coworker.

At the center top of the picture you can only see a little bit of the McPherson strut mount. The two thick aluminum plates holding the spindle. They are part of a billet strut mount I made around 92 to move the strut in 1 inch for tire clearance, and it has many hard fast miles on it. The tops I moved in 1 1/4”.

I have 12” wide billet Weld Wheels with 315-17 35s on the back and in the fenders. The 12” rimes should have 335-17 on them but there were none in the US to buy from any one at the time.



Do you have a part # for those rotors? They look like the "lightened" Wilwood rotors I was trying to look up a couple years back. I think the measurements you mentioned are what I'm using but my hats are 5x4.75". This would be an nice upgrade for my race car to lower my rotating mass...
I'm also using 315/35-R17's in the back...

[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 06-12-2016).]