The Getrag F23 Tutorial - By Emc209i (Page 23/28)
Monstertone JUL 31, 04:26 PM
Will simply grinding it back flat excepting a lead on the splines be OK then?
pmbrunelle JUL 31, 04:45 PM
If you have a clearance problem, then yes, that would work.

However, if the end of the shaft was centre-drilled, then you would be cutting that off.

If you ever wish to put the shaft between centers on a lathe, well then you would be SOL.
Will AUG 01, 03:49 PM
The Ecotec bellhousing is 3/8" deeper than the "metric" bellhousing. As a result, the Ecotec input shaft is 3/8" longer than the input shaft used with the "metric" bellhousing. When you install the metric bellhousing on the Ecotec XFE transmission, the input shaft then sticks out 3/8" further than the input shaft in the metric transmission.

I think JustinBart just ground down the OD of the interfering snout on the shaft rather than cutting it off completely.
Jncomutt AUG 07, 10:05 AM
Those issues were covered here by Justin:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...2/HTML/121743-2.html
ericjon262 DEC 29, 01:25 PM
FWIW, the VSS reluctor on a F23 has 29 teeth(at least, the one I took apart does), pulse per mile can then be calculated by multiplying tooth count (29) times revolutions per mile of your tire size, in my case, 780.

780 rev/mile X 29 pulses/rev=22,620 pulses per mile. this should give a decent starting point for speedometer calibration.

Rev/mile for your tire size can be found here:

https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/285-35R18.htm

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

Matthew_Fiero JUL 20, 12:24 PM
Are there still basket and cable support for the F23?

I'm going to start collecting parts for either the F40 or F23. Whichever transmission(s) I find first.

Thank you,
Matthew
Trinten JUL 20, 01:47 PM
To my knowledge, yes. A company called California Push-n-pull (or something akin to that) makes cables, and the non-stock one needed (right length with the appropriate connectors on it) is in their catalog thanks to the efforts of Emc209i. If you call them up and let them know you need shift cables for an F23 going into a Fiero, they should know what you're talking about. Back when I got mine, I think it was 110 dollars for the two cables.
ericjon262 MAR 07, 10:00 AM
I recently put an F23 in a POS Grand AM (The Gran Damn) and since install, I had noticed the trans made lots of undesirable noises, and I had a noise that I had thought was coming from the power steering. today, I dumped the ATF out of the trans and refilled it with Synchromesh, to the 2.6 quarts recommended by the TSB, and the trans is now WAY quieter, and the noise I had thought was coming from the power steering, almost completely went away, it wasn't impossible to induce the noise, but it took way more aggressive driving than it did before.

At this point, I recommend filling F23's with Synchromesh and not ATF, that being said, I only have a couple of miles on the car with it, so I have no long term data, and any long term data might not be valid, because the transmission wasn't rebuilt, and could have some preexisting problems, so a failure at this point doesn't mean it's the Synchromesh either.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

I invited Lou Dias to trash me in my own thread, he refused. sorry. if he trashes your thread going after me. I tried.

pmbrunelle SEP 06, 08:28 PM
I have some questions; I'm thinking about doing an F23 install in my Fiero, which currently has a Muncie:

1.
When building transmission mounts, do I keep the bellhousing position in the same position as stock Fiero? The telescoping range of the axle tripods should work out okay if I do that?

2.
Is the fore-aft positioning of the differential similar to stock Fiero? I have a turbo oil drain line which passes a bit close to the RH tripod; I'm wondering if there could be a clearance issue with this transmission swap.

3.
My current exhaust crossover pipe would run above the plastic oil fill cap. Can/should this be blocked off somehow, perhaps with a metal plug? Is there an alternate method of filling the case to the correct level with oil if the plastic oil fill cap is not accessible? VSS hole maybe? Another hole?

4.
I was thinking of grinding teeth off the VSS reluctor wheel, so I could send a 4000 PPM signal (5 teeth should do it) to the instrument cluster (possibly with tweaks to account for the difference between variable reluctance and sine wave). How is the VSS reluctor wheel attached to the differential carrier? If I don't want to modify the stock reluctor, would it be feasible to make a new one as a laser-cut part?

5.
Do the Cavalier and Cobalt transmission cases (the non-bellhousing side) have the same shifter shaft angle / position? The more "horizontally inclined" the shifter shaft is, the more the shift cable will have to come from up high, complicating things. Is one case easier than the other with regards to building a shift linkage?

6.
If an HTOB spacer is used, will this not cause bending in the hydraulic lines which are also fixed to the case? How is this dealt with?
Trinten SEP 06, 11:34 PM
Those are some great questions. Most of which I can't answer, but I can try to get a hold of emc209i and ask him if he could provide the answers.

What engine swap did you do?

I would not recommend taking apart the transmission to grind off any teeth. That transmission is REALLY finnicky with coming apart and going together, even with the Kent-Moore toolkit, which has this "template" that holds various parts in the right relationship as you put things together. Not to mention if you start grinding off teeth, the internal balancing would be affected, no matter how small. To fix the VSS, I would suggest getting the Dakota Digital adapter and go with that.

If the crossover is blocking the cap, I would suggest looking into modifying the cross over. I think any other ports to try to fill the transmission would be slow and challenging.

I don't think the spacer will cause any issues with the lines, or I can't imagine how it does? It's only impacting the clutch and PP engagement by "adding" some length to the HTOB 'reach'.
There is a method for doing all the measuring for that, definitely something you want to do before you get the spacer. On Mike's initial swap using my old F23, he used the HTOB with the same spacer - no issues. On the next one he installed, which was out of a different year car, something was just different enough that he either didn't need the spacer at all, or he needed a thinner one.