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| Help! 3 exhaust studs backed out! (Page 2/2) |
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Modesto
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JUN 25, 07:00 PM
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Yeah they felt good, like enough clamping that I didn't have to worry about leaking and light enough to not worry at all about a rounded nut or stripped threads. The replacment studs came in today and I had a sickening discovery...
It turns out the studs had snapped off just below the surface of the head, not backed out. I called Rodney and he said he hasn't ever installed them but had them made in one batch, so if he gets any more calls about this he isn't going to sell them (but I'm the first one). He did say since it was a prevailing torque nut he would expect the studs to bottom out, which is what Saturn seems to imply by stating a torque value? So now I have to removed the broken studs on cylinder 5 (no biggie) and the broken stud from the top of cylinder 2 (any suggestions?).
Luckily the other studs seemed to back out pretty easily, but man its tight.
Edit: From the link Patrick posted "If you torque a stud into a blind hole, you lose that benefit, and concentrate stresses at the first thread in the hole." ARP's says to make sure the stud is bottomed out (at least on head studs) but the fact they broke where they did seems to suggest the stress was concentrated at the first thread.[This message has been edited by Modesto (edited 06-25-2020).]
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Patrick
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JUN 25, 07:28 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Modesto:
It turns out the studs had snapped off just below the surface of the head, not backed out. So now I have to removed the broken studs on cylinder 5 (no biggie) and the broken stud from the top of cylinder 2 (any suggestions?)... man its tight.
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#2 is definitely a problem, especially if the car has A/C. I went through absolute hell a few years ago removing broken exhaust manifold bolts on the front bank of the 2.8 in my '86 GT. You'll need to tip the cradle down for access. If you're extremely lucky, a left-handed drill bit (spins in reverse) will back the broken stud out. My suggestion though (after what I went through posted Here), is to weld a nut on the end of the broken stud... and then "simply" unscrew it.
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Modesto
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JUN 25, 10:05 PM
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Man, that looks like a ton of fun. I think I have a really good chance of the left hand drill bit backing them out based on how easily the others came out. They aren't corroded at all and my holes/threads were spotless. I'll have to look around to see how tight of a right angle drill I can find, I think if I remove the deck lid I might have juuuuuust enough room to work.
After the 3 broken studs are removed I will loosten the remaining nuts, back out the studs a turn or two, and tighten the nuts back down. That should equalize the load to all of the threads and keep this from happening again.
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Modesto
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JUN 29, 08:21 PM
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So I got the front two out!
I have the drill in position for the rear one but wanted to make sure I was in the right state of mind before I drilled it. They came out with very little effort.
Also, anyone know what vac line is suppose to connect to the line against the firewall in the center of the pic? You can see the dipstick to the bottom right.
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Patrick
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JUN 29, 09:26 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Modesto:
So I got the front two out! They came out with very little effort.
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... 
| quote | Originally posted by Modesto:
Also, anyone know what vac line is suppose to connect to the line against the firewall in the center of the pic?
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For the one millionth time.  [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-29-2020).]
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Modesto
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JUN 29, 10:39 PM
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Unless I missed something, the large one referenced in that thread is not the the one I'm talking about. This looks like it uses a vac line about 1/4" in diameter and from what I could tell bent down maybe to the fuel tank area.
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Patrick
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JUN 29, 11:12 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Modesto:
Unless I missed something, the large one referenced in that thread is not the the one I'm talking about...
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Gimme a break, it was crap picture! lol
Perhaps the smaller metal tube you're referring to is the one that's supposed to connect to the EGR solenoid via a rubber hose?
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Modesto
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JUN 30, 12:53 AM
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Hahaha it is a crap picture. I'll try to get a better one tomorrow.
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Patrick
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JUN 30, 01:10 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Perhaps the smaller metal tube you're referring to is the one that's supposed to connect to the EGR solenoid via a rubber hose?
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From This thread...
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
I found a image on the 'net that I've cropped and indicated with an arrow where the EGR solenoid hose is supposed to connect.
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