Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 (Page 15/23)
Repulsiv JUN 30, 07:19 PM
Its just so strange that the engine ran perfectly before, no misfires and it started instantly, evne the first start after its beens tanding still for years was instant.

If I remove the distributor, are there more than one way to place it ? ..I know some distributors are like that, so you have to zero the engine and then put it back in the right position, some can just be placed in one way.

When I removed the distributor cap I could see it was pretty rusty inside :/
Rexgirl JUN 30, 08:09 PM
Fluid moving through a previously stored car can move deposits that have formed in place over a long time. Engine and car vibration can damage plastic, rubber and other material that have deteriorated while sitting, even if at first they seem fine. Even covered cars can suffer from condensation inside. So I've found anyway.
Many of us here have progressively gone through our fuel, electrical and braking systems when we bring a Fiero back on the road. Fortunately, the repairs aren't difficult, and the parts are, for the most part, available and not very costly. We can help, and you should be able to enjoy driving you car while doing the repairs after the initial problems are sorted.
All in all, Fiero's are a lot of fun to own..
Rexgirl JUN 30, 08:26 PM
Yes, the distributor can be positioned anywhere; they is no indexing built in. Just precisely mark where the rotor is pointing (on the intake manifold if possible) and keep the engine from rotating until you are finished with the job. There is a clamp down at the base of the distributor housing and the shaft will rotate as it meshes with the camshaft since the drive gears are helical.
As the distributor's lower "O" ring is known to leak, replacing it with Rodney Dickman's high temperature part is a good idea. The O ring seals where the housing enters the engine. It can also be purchased at a Chevrolet dealer, at least in the USA.
Patrick JUL 01, 01:38 AM

quote
Originally posted by Rexgirl:

I will be adding a computer heat sink under the ICM as suggested by Patrick on here, as we can often get over 32 * in summer. Heat is the killer of electronics.



I did that mod ten years ago, using an already old ICM... and the same ICM is still going strong. Originally it was being used in an '86 GT, but I eventually transferred the whole distributor over to my '88 Formula. I don't know why more people don't add a heat sink to prolong the life of their ICM. It works!

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-01-2018).]

Repulsiv JUL 02, 05:00 AM
Now I just really dont know what I should do next, the engine misfires but that doesn't mean that it is a ignition problem, it can be fuel too.

I already have swapping the fuelfilter on my todolist, and airfilter, but im not so sure that would help.

I could order a new cap/roto/cables, but im not so sure that would help either.

The next step probably will be to ensure the grounding, does anyone have a pic of where the groundcables are attached ? as I said I only found one, and that didnt look that nice,
however those are easy to buy local so I will replace them anyway.

My distributor looked like the one in the other thread inside, but I cannot see how the rust would create those problems.

I also going to order sparkplugs (when I order from rockauto) because they probably need to be changed anyway, but I cannot see how this problem could just happen like that if it is the plugs.
Btw it was denso-plugs in the car now, and my dad said when he serviced the car the mechanic failed to change the front bank plugs, he said you had to remove the engine to do that, I know
he was wrong, but that means that three plugs are reeeally old now..

I also going to change both the glycol (because I dont know what type it is in it now, and its ooold) and the brakefluid (because its ooold), but I want the engine to run nicely before I do other things.
Probably I would change the transmission oil too, but I havent been able to find any GM syncromesh here, but thats a later problem.

------------------
Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!

Repulsiv JUL 02, 09:07 AM
Hmm, after searching the forum and reading this thread..

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040710-2-045531.html

..I will try grounding FIRST.. I'll try to measure what lenghts I need and see if I can buy some braids tomorrow.

I will measure the resistance before and after too.
Patrick JUL 02, 02:02 PM

quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:

Hmm, after searching the forum and reading this thread..

Engine to chassis ground strap?

..I will try grounding FIRST..



This is the thread for grounds... EVERYONE with a V6 please Read

It's too bad that thread didn't have a more descriptive heading for anyone using the search function.
Repulsiv JUL 02, 03:00 PM
I just went out and looked for ground-cables..

The one front right I found before, it exist but is in bad shape.

The one rear right is simply not existing, i find the bolt it should be on, but there is no cable.

The left one I didn't find, I found one going between the hinge and then into a bunch of cables, but nothing between engine and chassi, not sure it it should be or if I found the right one.

It sure could be the source of problems here, one groundcable in miserable order, and one missing..


I'll try to buy some tomorrow, unfortunatly the nearest store doesnt seem to have any long cables, they have the one front right, but not sure if 35cm is enough for the one rear right.. hmm.

In worst case I have to make cables, at work we have a (expensive) pressing tool for this, just have to buy some cable and cableshoes first.

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 07-02-2018).]

Rexgirl JUL 02, 05:58 PM
Here is a pic (thank you Bloozberry) of your ECM and some sensor grounds. They are on the driver's side over the starter and clutch arm.

BTW, since you ordering from Rockauto, it might be wise to buy a 'Distributor Pickup Coil' as well. It is the white disc with the green and white wire leads pictured here
Repulsiv JUL 03, 04:04 PM
Today I bought two groundstraps..

First I replaced the one between the hinge and the engine.. a bit difference..



I also replaced the one between the blockm and the battery.. I would have liked a cable here but the only thing i could buy was a braid.



I dont have to tell you about all the problems I got then I first dropped a nut down in the engine and had to find it, and also destroyed the threads on the battery adapter so I had to modifiy it to be able to use it :P ..I solved the problems.

..Well, did it help ?

NO.

The engine still have big problems starting, and when it do start it misfires..

HOWEVER..

The old groundstraps where bad, because now the starter motor spins faster than EVER, the front lights are brither and so are the interior lights.

..So it was a good thing to fix anyway.

I took apart the distributor again to clean it, and took a photo of it.. doesnt look very nice..



Rexgirl: why do I need a new pickupcoil ? ..it sure doesnt look very good when i looked at it, but is it a common problem ?

I also nothed something else, sometimes when I try to start the rpm-gauge does not move at all, and it it suddenly ignites I can see that it jump up.

Does the meter and the ignintion control take the rpm signal from the same place ? ..then I could be onto something here..