The Getrag F23 Tutorial - By Emc209i (Page 11/28)
LEEEZARD MAR 28, 10:00 PM
what happened to l67? this is a great writeup.
Justinbart MAR 28, 10:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by LEEEZARD:

what happened to l67? this is a great writeup.



He hurt peoples feelings and he hurt peoples feelings for hurting peoples feelings.

There is a thread in OT discussing this.

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Turbo 3800 E85 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

carbon MAR 29, 07:32 AM

quote
Originally posted by Justinbart:


He hurt peoples feelings and he hurt peoples feelings for hurting peoples feelings.

There is a thread in OT discussing this.




Yup... it's unfortunate really. Most of the time he played 'devil's advocate' but some people can't seem to see the difference between that and personal assaults. He tried to spread good info... just a little gruff in doing it. I never had a single problem in dealings with him and my F23 swap would not bet getting done with out his resources.

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 03-29-2012).]

LEEEZARD MAR 29, 08:33 PM
i did my f23 before the writeup but still very good info. he and i had chatted back and forth a few times about the f23's and i never found him offensive.
mattwa APR 09, 04:49 PM
I wanted to give an update on this, considering what I found out on my 3800/F23 swap, you more likely then not need a HTOB spacer for that setup, depending on what clutch you use. Same thing applies for a 2.8/3.4, except I think it's even worse in that case.
doublec4 APR 09, 05:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by mattwa:

I wanted to give an update on this, considering what I found out on my 3800/F23 swap, you more likely then not need a HTOB spacer for that setup, depending on what clutch you use. Same thing applies for a 2.8/3.4, except I think it's even worse in that case.



Which clutch did you use?
mattwa APR 09, 09:28 PM
My first clutch was a stock 2.8 Getrag clutch, and is what the HTOB exploded on. I didn't measure when It was still installed on the flywheel, but I'm positive the fingers don't stick out as far as the slightly used Spec 2+ I upgraded too does. Best thing to do is measure the distance between the bellhousing face and the clutch PP fingers. Someone else with the same stock getrag clutch got 2.089", while I got 2.330".

[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 04-09-2012).]

D_sensitized MAY 14, 03:12 PM
I just finished my F23 swap so figured id add some info from my experience.

F23 from a 2000 cavalier
3800 SC1 from a 1995 Oldsmobile 88
88 Fiero gt auto
Clutchnet clutch stage 2 for 88 Fiero v6 5 speed

I did have to clearance the diff housing inside the bell housing to fit the pressure plate, still hits if I press the clutch all the way in so I put a stop behind the petal, still enough to properly engage/disengage.

I did not need a spacer for the throw out bearing, measured before hand and haven't had any issues.

I changed the design of L67s shift cable bracket to move it over and avoid denting in the strut tower.

Stock Fiero axles, cut half the clutch fitting and welded on an AN -4 fitting instead of using thelins adaptor (made the rest of the clutch line from scratch)
carbon MAY 14, 03:34 PM
Thanks for sharing! I hope people continue to add to this thread with their methods of mounting these things!
Trinten MAY 14, 03:37 PM
D_Sensatized,

How did you measure your HTOB travel to make sure it was going to be okay?

On the pressure plate, Capt Fiero discovered that Clutchnet actually has two different pressure plates they supply for Fieros across their stages, one of them is "taller" than the other. I have the 'shorter' one, and Capt had them swap the one he received because of interference issues on a stock rebuild he was doing. Just pointing this out so if you ever want to, you can probably get the shorter one and get rid of the pedal stop.

Glad it's all working for you though!!