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How to make rear coil-overs using factory struts, with pics. by fierohoho
Started on: 02-11-2004 03:17 PM
Replies: 484 (75247 views)
Last post by: ltlfrari on 08-17-2018 11:19 AM
nitroheadz28
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Report this Post10-14-2011 12:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nitroheadz28Send a Private Message to nitroheadz28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This past weekend I installed my built coilovers, poly in the control arms and new ball joints. I didn't touch the knuckle/ brake assembly. Since my first drive, I had this scratching noise as if the pads were scraping rust off the rotor- which I thought was normal since the car had been sitting for over a month. It got progressively louder and started squealing VERY loud.

I took some pics of whats going on back there:



Strut is extremely close to the wheel lip



Rubbing a tiny bit.. I guess cause I set it to max negative camber??



Dust shields vs rotor.. What the hell, this area was never touched?



Springs are wearing away the sleeves.

All of this is after 20 miles of driving on max negative camber. Struts are Monroe, springs are AFCO 12" 250lbs adjusted about 15 turns from the bottom.

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Report this Post10-14-2011 01:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Why is this thread not in TCZ yet? It so needs to go in there.

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Report this Post10-14-2011 04:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by nitroheadz28:

Springs are wearing away the sleeves.



Is the spring centered on the top perch? What is keeping your spring concentric to the strut shaft? It looks like either the spring is flexing inward like this: ) or the spring isn't staying concentric.

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nitroheadz28
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Report this Post10-15-2011 12:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for nitroheadz28Send a Private Message to nitroheadz28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Jncomutt:


Is the spring centered on the top perch? What is keeping your spring concentric to the strut shaft? It looks like either the spring is flexing inward like this: ) or the spring isn't staying concentric.


I do believe it is cause it was on pretty good when I installed it, I'll double check tomorrow to see if theres any wiggle room. I assembled my struts the same way redraif did in his thread:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118751.html

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nitroheadz28
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Report this Post10-15-2011 05:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nitroheadz28Send a Private Message to nitroheadz28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

They are not sitting concentric at the bottom it seems, what do you think I should do? (And yes I'm using a button head screw cause I got the sleeves+ collars used and haven't gotten around to finding an appropriate set screw).







[This message has been edited by nitroheadz28 (edited 10-15-2011).]

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L67
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Report this Post10-15-2011 06:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for L67Click Here to Email L67Send a Private Message to L67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by nitroheadz28:
{And yes I'm using a button head screw cause I got the sleeves+ collars used and haven't gotten around to finding an appropriate set screw).



You can find the correct hex head plugs locally. There's a ball and detent spring behind it, very easy to build.

[This message has been edited by L67 (edited 10-15-2011).]

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nitroheadz28
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Report this Post10-15-2011 08:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nitroheadz28Send a Private Message to nitroheadz28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by L67:
You can find the correct hex head plugs locally. There's a ball and detent spring behind it, very easy to build.



Its not in any hardware store I've been to, if anyone has extra then be my guest to help me out lol. I'm a lot more concerned about the spring rubbing the sleeve.

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Report this Post10-15-2011 10:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It looks like the spring is larger than the flange on the sleeve nut (if it even has one). I would suggest a rubber with a flange on it to center the spring.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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Report this Post10-17-2011 01:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for redraifClick Here to Email redraifSend a Private Message to redraifEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by nitroheadz28:


Its not in any hardware store I've been to, if anyone has extra then be my guest to help me out lol. I'm a lot more concerned about the spring rubbing the sleeve.


the ones that came with mine had a rubber plug between the set screw and the sleeve. In the past I have found set screws at Lowe's and Home Depot. in the pull out bins.

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Report this Post10-17-2011 01:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for redraifClick Here to Email redraifSend a Private Message to redraifEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by nitroheadz28:

This past weekend I installed my built coilovers, poly in the control arms and new ball joints. I didn't touch the knuckle/ brake assembly. Since my first drive, I had this scratching noise as if the pads were scraping rust off the rotor- which I thought was normal since the car had been sitting for over a month. It got progressively louder and started squealing VERY loud.

I took some pics of whats going on back there:



Rubbing a tiny bit.. I guess cause I set it to max negative camber??

All of this is after 20 miles of driving on max negative camber. Struts are Monroe, springs are AFCO 12" 250lbs adjusted about 15 turns from the bottom.


I remember in searching that some had a bit of sleeve rubbing, but it was over a LONG period of time.

I wonder if the max negative camber is causing the spring to bow more extreme, and there by rubbing? Excuse me if you already said it, but is it rubbing inside (body side) or outside / front or back worse. Are both sides rubbing equally and in the same place?

I have not had my car out on the road yet... front end lowering & poly build currently... so I have yet to see if mine has any issues. Before I drive it I'm planning to do a home alignment to at least make the car safe to get to an alignment shop. That and to give me some time to allow the springs to settle in before I get it aligned. i would ahve to do it twice.

[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 10-17-2011).]

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Report this Post10-27-2011 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for redraifClick Here to Email redraifSend a Private Message to redraifEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by redraif:


I remember in searching that some had a bit of sleeve rubbing, but it was over a LONG period of time.

I wonder if the max negative camber is causing the spring to bow more extreme, and there by rubbing? Excuse me if you already said it, but is it rubbing inside (body side) or outside / front or back worse. Are both sides rubbing equally and in the same place?

I have not had my car out on the road yet... front end lowering & poly build currently... so I have yet to see if mine has any issues. Before I drive it I'm planning to do a home alignment to at least make the car safe to get to an alignment shop. That and to give me some time to allow the springs to settle in before I get it aligned. i would ahve to do it twice.



Any updates on your car nitroheadz28?


I finally got the front poly done on mine and the frt 1.5 coil removal completed.

The car looks much better all leveled out! I dropped the rear a few more turns and I'm near the 3 finger mark... in the front I'm at about 2.5 fingers...

Scarey thing is even with the alignment like this > < ... the darn car felt better then it ever did, nice and tight!... but I did straighten out the rear toe before I took it on its 20 mile trip.

So that rear floaty feeling I have been plagued with since I got the car was a combo of: blown motor & tranny mounts, dead suspension bushings, and old soft springs. The poly, new solid rubber motor and tranny mounts, 300lb rear & 1.5 coils cut on the front WS6 (stiffest stock) made all the difference! I was SOOO happy when I was driving my little indy again! Dang, I have missed this car! The 300lb spring rate in the rear felt great.


This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

Im planning to check this weekend to see if I have any rubbing issues

[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 10-27-2011).]

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nitroheadz28
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Report this Post10-27-2011 09:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nitroheadz28Send a Private Message to nitroheadz28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by redraif:


I remember in searching that some had a bit of sleeve rubbing, but it was over a LONG period of time.

I wonder if the max negative camber is causing the spring to bow more extreme, and there by rubbing? Excuse me if you already said it, but is it rubbing inside (body side) or outside / front or back worse. Are both sides rubbing equally and in the same place?

I have not had my car out on the road yet... front end lowering & poly build currently... so I have yet to see if mine has any issues. Before I drive it I'm planning to do a home alignment to at least make the car safe to get to an alignment shop. That and to give me some time to allow the springs to settle in before I get it aligned. i would ahve to do it twice.



Ah whoops I must have completely missed this post. Its rubbing on the outside (facing the wheel well) in about a 30-40mm long patch. Correct both sides have the same exact wear.

I have since gotten 2 alignments, the springs still rub. Will be getting a 3rd alignment tomorrow cause my mechanic didn't understand how to adjust Rodney's ball joints to get the correct camber setting in the front. I'll just leave the springs as is, I'm running 2 5/8" AFCO springs- they are slightly larger than the 2.5" springs most here use so that is probably my issue. I plan on swapping them out when I do my engine swap for a 10" long set. Stupid poly is squeaking in the front a arm- never been exposed to water/ I greased the hell out of em/ only had 200 miles on the conversion . I'll also switch that out for rubber when I do my engine swap, the squeak is annoying as hell!

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Report this Post10-28-2011 12:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for redraifClick Here to Email redraifSend a Private Message to redraifEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I checked the car... I have no wear on my sleeves so far. Wonder if it does have to do with the different diameter springs.

You could always make your poly greasable... I did that with all of mine. Here's hoping it keeps the squeeks away

[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 10-28-2011).]

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nitroheadz28
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Report this Post10-28-2011 01:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for nitroheadz28Send a Private Message to nitroheadz28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by redraif:

I checked the car... I have no wear on my sleeves so far. Wonder if it does have to do with the different diameter springs.

You could always make your poly greasable... I did that with all of mine. Here's hoping it keeps the squeeks away



I know but I was short on time, I really needed the asap car as its my DD. I actually don't want poly after doing more research on it a little while ago. The bushings become torn and destroyed after a few years anyway (depending on usage), I'd rather have rubber for the peace of mind. The sad thing is that I had a complete set of Moog rubber bushings/ sleeves that I sold

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Report this Post10-28-2011 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by nitroheadz28:


Its rubbing on the outside (facing the wheel well) in about a 30-40mm long patch. Correct both sides have the same exact wear.



I didn't review your install, but have you verified that each item is constrained concentrically? Do you have any sort of locating feature for the spring under the top 'hat' that prevents the spring from walking around? Do you have either a tight fit or the centering O-Rings,etc installed between the strut and sleeve? The spring is either moving around up top or the threaded sleeve is "rocking" back and forth on the base. Its possible the spring is bowing, but I would think these other two situations would be more common.

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Report this Post10-28-2011 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for redraifClick Here to Email redraifSend a Private Message to redraifEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Jncomutt:


I didn't review your install, but have you verified that each item is constrained concentrically? Do you have any sort of locating feature for the spring under the top 'hat' that prevents the spring from walking around? Do you have either a tight fit or the centering O-Rings,etc installed between the strut and sleeve? The spring is either moving around up top or the threaded sleeve is "rocking" back and forth on the base. Its possible the spring is bowing, but I would think these other two situations would be more common.


Hmmm... the sleeve wobbling... I did not think of that. that could do it! With my coleman sleeves they had a metal snap ring that was a SUPER tight fit and holds the sleeve PERFECTLY still. Nitroheadz28 did yours have the snap ring?

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Report this Post10-28-2011 04:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nitroheadz28Send a Private Message to nitroheadz28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Jncomutt:


I didn't review your install, but have you verified that each item is constrained concentrically? Do you have any sort of locating feature for the spring under the top 'hat' that prevents the spring from walking around? Do you have either a tight fit or the centering O-Rings,etc installed between the strut and sleeve? The spring is either moving around up top or the threaded sleeve is "rocking" back and forth on the base. Its possible the spring is bowing, but I would think these other two situations would be more common.


The sleeves arent moving, its siliconed in place lol. I bought everything minus the struts used and it didn't have the snap ring nor could I find one. I believe you asked me this already and I confirmed that the spring doesn't sit concentrically at the bottom. The top is fine, the spring "walks" on the sleeve adjuster ever so slightly, most likely because the adjuster was designed for a 2.5" ID spring.

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Report this Post03-11-2012 03:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ShillSend a Private Message to ShillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierohoho:


That's it in a nutshell, buying new parts and using the old struts you'll have about $228.00 into this project.




Am i missing something here?

WCF sells these for $220 and saves you the trouble of modding and tracking parts down. What would be the difference in these?

EDIT: found the difference. WCF sleeve is intended to sit on the original spring perch, and use a smaller spring.

I think I prefer Fierohoho's writeup over WCF

[This message has been edited by Shill (edited 03-11-2012).]

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Report this Post03-11-2012 04:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ShillSend a Private Message to ShillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Okay, so what is the cone shaped item pictured here for?

[This message has been edited by Shill (edited 03-11-2012).]

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weloveour86se
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Report this Post03-11-2012 06:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for weloveour86seSend a Private Message to weloveour86seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Shill:

Okay, so what is the cone shaped item pictured here for?





It's a top hat. Toss it, find some ricer to sell it to, use it for a paper weight, throw it at unruley neighbors? Lol. really though I wanna say I read here somewhere that someone had big problems using those. Whodeanie sells just the top hats with the needed bushing.

typos...

[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 03-11-2012).]

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Report this Post03-11-2012 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ShillSend a Private Message to ShillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by weloveour86se:


It's a top hat. Toss it, find some ricer to sell it to, use it for a paper weight, throw it at unruley neighbors? Lol. really though I wanna say I read here somewhere that someone had big problems using those. Whodeanie sells just the top hats with the needed bushing.

typos...



Okay, so i won't worry about them then. What is/was their intended purpose?

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Report this Post03-11-2012 06:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for weloveour86seSend a Private Message to weloveour86seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Shill:


Okay, so i won't worry about them then. What is/was their intended purpose?


They are to hold the top of the spring in. Somewhere around PFF is a person that used those and it caused the springs to move all around up top. IIRC they actually sheered the cone part. Wish I could find it, sorry.

Think those cones are for hondas or the like I think.

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Report this Post03-11-2012 07:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ShillSend a Private Message to ShillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm having a heck of a time trying to find what I want. Can someone help me with my search?

I've tried for 5"/7" shock sleeve, coilover, coil-over, etc...

I'm looking for 350lb springs and 7" sleeves. I'd like to eventually be able to lower the car as low as possible and be able to raise it a bit higher than stock during the winter.

[This message has been edited by Shill (edited 03-11-2012).]

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Report this Post03-11-2012 07:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for weloveour86seSend a Private Message to weloveour86seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Shill:

I'm having a heck of a time trying to find what I want. Can someone help me with my search?

I've tried for 5"/7" shock sleeve, coilover, coil-over, etc...

I'm looking for 350lb springs and 7" sleeves. I'd like to eventually be able to lower the car as low as possible and be able to raise it a bit higher than stock during the winter.



Just installed a set of Whodeanies coilovers. 300lb springs with a 2.8. The 350lb spring rate might be too stiff with a 2.8 i think.

Summit has some nice springs, I'm sure there are cheaper ones out there tho. I'ts all about inner and outer diameters of the parts too.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-102-5300/

Heres another link. Second link is cheaper but the springs are junk at 400lbs spring rate. I would use just the sleeves and perches from the second link with the Summit springs and a Whodeanie top hat. Get a new KYB or Monroe strut and cut of the spring perch like shown above in this thread. Walla, coilovers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-102-5300/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HON...D6936642566421535533


Shiping costs of each of the parts, time needed to make the mods and good measure for the odd things you will need will add up. It's a worthy cause tho IMHO. Coilovers shoulda been factory I also think. It's that much of an improvement. I cant stress enough how much better my handling is.

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Report this Post03-12-2012 09:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ShillSend a Private Message to ShillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Alright, so curious about how the coilovers work for adjustability. When the nut is at the top of the sleeve, the car will be sitting higher, and the bottom will be at its lowest, right? What approximate location on the sleeve will be stock height with a 12" spring as recommended in the OP? right in the middle, top, 3/4 way up?

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Report this Post03-12-2012 12:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for scott0999Click Here to Email scott0999Send a Private Message to scott0999Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Shill:

Alright, so curious about how the coilovers work for adjustability. When the nut is at the top of the sleeve, the car will be sitting higher, and the bottom will be at its lowest, right? What approximate location on the sleeve will be stock height with a 12" spring as recommended in the OP? right in the middle, top, 3/4 way up?


about 1/2 way. heres mine tightened just about 2 turns

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post03-12-2012 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Shill:


Okay, so i won't worry about them then. What is/was their intended purpose?


They go over a shock shaft at the top to hold the spring. They don't work on struts.
~ Paul
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Fiero Tom
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Report this Post10-24-2012 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero TomClick Here to Email Fiero TomSend a Private Message to Fiero TomEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Anyone using a dust boot when they make there coil-over, wouldn't you want to protect the seal?

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Report this Post01-29-2013 10:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tom SlickClick Here to Email Tom SlickSend a Private Message to Tom SlickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

what other strut can be used besides the usual suspects e.g. Koni, KYBs, and Monore?

thanks...

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Report this Post03-01-2013 05:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85sliverGTClick Here to Email 85sliverGTSend a Private Message to 85sliverGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by couldahadaV8:
I was thinking of flipping the upper plate around (the one with the rubber bushing in it) as was mentioned above.


Did you end up doing that? Its been brought up a couple times now but i haven't seen anyone confirm this works ok

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Report this Post05-09-2013 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I am just about ready to install my coil overs long story short - got the strutts and springs from a member on here - but the coil over sleeves them selves was way worn out due to excessive rubbing, so ordered from summit a new set and the welded 3 tangs onto the spring plate to avoid the spring moving of its centre thus preventing any rubbing on the coil over and a piece of rubber for the spring to rest on




a little close up of how it looks





here is the standard spring housing with 3 notches taken out to accomodate the 3 tangs. (yes you could just use m8 bolts through the holes - but my thinking is in wet weather it would give a little more protection to the upper area of the suspension housing)





here is the completed strutt (minus the original spring housing) - i put on a moog suspension bushing as recommended earlier on in this thread





will post pics once I have fitted and adjusted them

jon

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Report this Post05-29-2013 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tehmaxfactrClick Here to Email tehmaxfactrSend a Private Message to tehmaxfactrEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

A couple of questions I have... First the springs you guys are using seem kinda soft. I have a Miata which is lighter and I run 530 lbs springs in the front and 350 in the rear. This car is my autocross car, but i want to start doing my Fiero next year. Secondly doesnt want one do a set up of these coil sleeves on the front? All i see is pictures of rear coilovers.

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jon m
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Report this Post05-30-2013 12:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by tehmaxfactr:

A couple of questions I have... First the springs you guys are using seem kinda soft. I have a Miata which is lighter and I run 530 lbs springs in the front and 350 in the rear. This car is my autocross car, but i want to start doing my Fiero next year. Secondly doesnt want one do a set up of these coil sleeves on the front? All i see is pictures of rear coilovers.


I have never seen the front with coil overs on - as most people either fit lowing springs or cut 1 or 2 coils of the stock spring which is acceptable due to the type of spring on the front - one thing to bear in mind with the front also is that the damper and the spring are located separately not like the rears where the spring fits on to the damper.

jon

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tehmaxfactr
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Report this Post05-30-2013 06:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tehmaxfactrClick Here to Email tehmaxfactrSend a Private Message to tehmaxfactrEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

thanks Jon. thats what I was wondering about. I am looking to run mine for autocross purposes next year so I would want something a bit stiffer than a regular lowering spring. Have any suggestions?

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jon m
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Report this Post06-01-2013 03:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

without going off topic ref front suspension - now I am guessing here (as I am no expert ) what about koni adjustables as you adjust the stiffness of the ride and a set of front lowering springs ( i have suspension techniques) which i got from a member on here who I believe bought just the front set from jc witney then used QA1 12 300 springs in the rear over sachs or kyb strutts with coil overs on.

[This message has been edited by jon m (edited 06-30-2013).]

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zkhennings
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Report this Post08-02-2013 02:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I just made myself some rear coilovers with my Konis. I got an AFCO coil over kit from Summit Racing for Monroe shocks/struts, 7 inch sleeves. I also got 350# 10 inch springs from summit racing.

I am posting to explain how I got my springs off because it was super easy and required no specialty tools.

1) With your whole car still assembled, blast the exposed threads on the top of the shock with PB blaster or whatever. Clean the threads up if they are corroded.

2) Grab the appropriately sized socket and allen wrench (this is if the impact gun will not get the top nut off)

3) Put the socket on the nut and grab it with vice grips. Insert allen wrench into the hex opening. Turning the vice grips, both of the nuts came right off.

4) Jack the car way up - This decompresses the springs.

5) If the threaded portion of the strut does not go through the hole in the bushing, I used a combination of kicking my wheels down and I took a punch, put it in the hole where the allen wrench goes and hammered until it popped through.

6) By now your spring is decompressed, and I unbolt the strut with an impact wrench from the rear knuckle and remove it, and after I take off the hardware still bolted to the car. When you reassemble there is no compressing of the spring necessary

This saves you having to get spring compressors which are a pain to use, and it is much quicker than using spring compressors. Sorry if everybody knew this already or someone posted it on another page of this thread, I did not feel like reading through all of it.

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GODFATHER
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Report this Post09-27-2013 01:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GODFATHERClick Here to Email GODFATHERSend a Private Message to GODFATHEREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Does anyone have updated part numbers for the sleeves?
Thanks
Joe

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S-toon
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Report this Post09-30-2013 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for S-toonSend a Private Message to S-toonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by GODFATHER:

Does anyone have updated part numbers for the sleeves?
Thanks
Joe


Here is what I have on my car.

Here is the kit I bought. 7 in Long, 2-1/2 in Diameter, Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all64141

I used these springs. Coil-Over Spring, 300 lbs./in. Rate, 10 in. Length, 2.5 in. Diameter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-102-5300

On KYB struts.

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GODFATHER
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Report this Post10-01-2013 12:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GODFATHERClick Here to Email GODFATHERSend a Private Message to GODFATHEREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by S-toon:


Here is what I have on my car.

Here is the kit I bought. 7 in Long, 2-1/2 in Diameter, Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all64141

I used these springs. Coil-Over Spring, 300 lbs./in. Rate, 10 in. Length, 2.5 in. Diameter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-102-5300

On KYB struts.


The 2 1/2 in diameter was that outside or inside? The strut outside diameter itself is 2 in and 2 1/2 would fit pretty loose.

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Report this Post10-01-2013 01:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for S-toonSend a Private Message to S-toonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The 2-1/2" is for where the part (idk what its called XD) the springs sit on. That's why you need springs that also have 2-1/2" dia. Like the ones I posted. The ID of the sleeve is a bit over 2" and slip right on KYB struts and the metal ring the sleeves come with barely fits so that it won't move around the strut.

Check this thread out. will explain a lot better then I could and has lots of pics http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118751.html
I used that as a guide when making mine. I used the same springs as him but not the sleeves as wanted to buy parts from same place so I just found some like it from summit to get everything from one place and that is what I found.

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