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Tang-Band sub-woofer upgrade by fierosound
Started on: 12-19-2008 09:17 AM
Replies: 124 (16645 views)
Last post by: Lurate on 05-03-2018 02:28 PM
fierosound
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Report this Post06-01-2009 04:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bowrapennocks:

Now that the Xtant 1.1i is no longer available, are there any recommendations for a 4 ohm amp?



A Seller has 2 Xtant 1.1i amps on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot...dZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

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fierosound
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Report this Post07-11-2009 04:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Another Xtant on eBay. This one located in Alberta http://cgi.ebay.com/Xtant-1...7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

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fierosound
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Report this Post10-22-2009 01:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Lilchief has 4 Xtant 1.1i amps up for sale http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/049016.html

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bowrapennocks
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Report this Post10-26-2009 08:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bowrapennocksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I bought a Fiero store subwoofer housing and and installed the Tang Band subwoofer Fierosound suggested. Works great! I connected it directly to the rear channels of my Pioneer AVIC 700 Audio/Video/Nav System. The Pioneer is set up with multiple options for connecting a sub directly to the built in amp. The Pioneer 700 is a double din unit, which I was able to fit into my Camaro dash. I bet you could get one to fit a Fiero dash as well. BTW, the Pioneer AVIC units have their own enthusiats website (AVIC411.com). Works great, thanks.
Jim

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fierosound
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Report this Post12-04-2009 12:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

bump

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post12-05-2009 03:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Bump & small hijack.

If you know how it's done by any chance, on an 85, is the convenience centre supposed to be attached to the heater box with a bracket or something? How is it done?

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fierosound
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Report this Post12-05-2009 04:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

If you know how it's done by any chance, on an 85, is the convenience centre supposed to be attached to the heater box with a bracket or something? How is it done?



Should be a bracket there - maybe not on 85's. I needed to get a later model cover with bracket for the heater core. Look back on page 1.

The upper one in this picture is what I managed to get a hold of and likely what you need too.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-07-2009).]

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post12-09-2009 12:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks!

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fierosound
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Report this Post01-30-2010 12:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

<bump>

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Report this Post02-21-2010 08:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tstroudSend a Private Message to tstroudEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Since the Xtant 1.1i amps are getting hard to find, is there a good alternative?

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fierosound
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Report this Post02-23-2010 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by tstroud:

Since the Xtant 1.1i amps are getting hard to find, is there a good alternative?



Don't know what others have used. Xtant 1.1i for sale here http://indianapolis.craigsl.../ele/1579809669.html

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tstroud
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Report this Post02-24-2010 10:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tstroudSend a Private Message to tstroudEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I got a new Xtant 2.2 on ebay for $129.00 delivered. I guess I can either just use one channel or I can bridge it and be careful with it.
It will do until I find a 1.1i and then I can move the 2.2 to my GTO project.

------------------
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Report this Post05-26-2010 12:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

On sale at Crutchfield for 59.99:

JVC KS-AX3002

65 watts RMS x 2 in stereo or
130 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

Not discontinued or hard to find

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82-T/A [At Work]
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Report this Post03-09-2011 03:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 82-T/A [At Work]Send a Private Message to 82-T/A [At Work]Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey guys, just curious. Is there a reason why in the first picture the subwoofer tube has been removed and taped off?

I don't fully understand the dynamics of a ported subwoofer vs a sealed one, but just curious what difference it makes?

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fierosound
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Report this Post03-14-2011 08:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

Hey guys, just curious. Is there a reason why in the first picture the subwoofer tube has been removed and taped off?
I don't fully understand the dynamics of a ported subwoofer vs a sealed one, but just curious what difference it makes?



I originally sealed the box to try it out, as the port is tuned to the original subwoofer. Later I came across some information from Tim.

Originally posted by timgray:
... if you are using the Tang Band speaker as mentioned in one of the other posts, stuff it loosely with the poly fill, put a little in the port tube and cut 2" of an inch off the end of the port tube to tune the box perfectly to the Tang Band 5.25" subwoofer driver.

I just finished tuning up one of these to match that box. Using the port tube with a bit of the poly fill in the tube helps to reduce velocity in the tube and makes it possible for you to tune it to the enclosure and get 35% more bass from it and make it sound better. - Tim
.
.
I reinstalled the tube with this modification and it works "as advertised" - deeper bass.
I readjusted the amplifier gain to balance the system again. Thanks Tim...

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-18-2015).]

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Report this Post03-29-2011 09:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

just found this while looking through my latest parts express catalog...





Sounds like an ideal alternative to the hard-to-find Xtant 1.1i amp.

Kicker 100W Car Audio Mono Input Sub Amp $14.80!!


Product Description

Kicker 100W Car Audio Mono Input Sub Amp
Offered originally as a dealer installed option for a specific manufacturer's original equipment sound systems, this compact Kicker subwoofer amplifier will improve the performance of almost any stock mobile stereo. The amp's features include a mono high level input (line level inputs are not included), 100 watts RMS @ 1 ohm power output, and a 150 Hz @12 dB/octave fixed low pass filter. Includes OEM connector (not shown). Dimensions: 3-1/2" H x 6" W x 1-1/4" D

Amplifier Installation Instructions

This 100 watt subwoofer amplifier is turned on by and receives its musical signal from either the left or right speaker wires (high level). It is powered by the vehicle's factory radio and protected by the vehicle's factory radio fuse. Because most low frequency signals are applied equally to both channels (mono), only one input is required. The amplifier senses the input signal's DC offset relative to ground and should turn on when the factory radio is turned on.

The following four connections from the Kicker sub amplifier are to be made to the vehicle's factory radio harness:

1- The red wire connects to the constant +12V wire in the radio harness. The vehicle's audio system fuse will protect the subwoofer amp.
2- The black wire connects to chassis ground.
3- The solid green wire connects to either the left or right positive speaker wire (either front or rear).
4- The green/yellow wire connects to either the left or right negative speaker wire (either front or rear).

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-29-2011).]

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Report this Post04-02-2011 01:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Click Here to Email IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes.

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Report this Post04-10-2011 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by IXSLR8:

Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes.


Excellent! I'm sure we're all waiting to see how this works.

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Report this Post04-19-2011 10:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BenjaSend a Private Message to BenjaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by LZeitgeist:


Quoted and repeated 'cuz I'm curious too...

Does the slider control still affect the amount of bass generated like it does with the OEM amp?



You can use an amp and retain the factory slider control. You can hook the sub up as you normally would from the HU, then at the sub input take the high level inputs and use a hi level to low level convertor. The low level will run to the amp, which turns it back into hi level to the sub. They are typically cheap and cheap, the sound quality suffers a little bit but on a sub you probably won't even notice.

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Report this Post06-02-2011 07:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroClick Here to Email YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I just want to say thanks for the thread. I did build one and I'm really pleased with the result. The sound is quite good especially for the size of the sub. One thing I did do though that I think helps is to spray a heavy coat of truck bed liner on the inside and outside. It looks good and seems to give a little more mass to the enclosure and makes the sound less 'plasticy'.

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Report this Post06-05-2011 11:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by YellowArtero:

I just want to say thanks for the thread. I did build one and I'm really pleased with the result.





 
quote
Originally posted by IXSLR8:

Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes.





Anything more to report on this? Is it worthwhile?

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Report this Post06-05-2011 01:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jb1Click Here to Email jb1Send a Private Message to jb1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

http://www.12voltnews.com/?p=23379

Pretty cool little amp , does really well on (2) 10" subs. Its only 4" x 6" an about 1.5" tall ,. 4ch be out around end of June. Mono amp available now.

------------------


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series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft)

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Report this Post06-19-2011 02:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Click Here to Email IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


Sorry, I got sidetracked with northstar engine issues and a bunch of work priorities right now. Hope to get to it soon.

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Report this Post07-01-2011 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for What about BobClick Here to Email What about BobSend a Private Message to What about BobEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I also have picked up two of the Kicker amps. I was going to do the Tang sub but they are now $90 a piece from Parts Express. Has anyone tried Rodney's new sub replacement?

What would be the best way to adjust the level of the amp?

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Report this Post07-03-2011 01:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mcgavinClick Here to visit mcgavin's HomePageClick Here to Email mcgavinSend a Private Message to mcgavinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

WhataboutBob - you must have gotten the last of those Kickers, because they are out of stock now.

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Report this Post07-10-2011 09:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroClick Here to Email YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by What about Bob:

I also have picked up two of the Kicker amps. I was going to do the Tang sub but they are now $90 a piece from Parts Express. Has anyone tried Rodney's new sub replacement?

What would be the best way to adjust the level of the amp?



I have both. I must admit that the Tang is far superior to Rodney's. However, I think Rodney's is much better than stock. Even though the price of the Tang has risen to $90+ I think it is still worth it.

John

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Report this Post07-11-2011 12:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Bengt WeilSend a Private Message to Bengt WeilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I just ordered a Tang Band sub from EMSpowered.com - seems they still list the W5-1138SM 5-1/4" sub at the old price of $40.95. Sure, the shipping was about $14, but even at $55 out-the-door, it's hard to beat compared to $90 everywhere else... Here's the link - http://www.emspowered.com/s...ndex&cPath=157_59_86

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Report this Post07-12-2011 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I read the reviews. Looks like the MR2 people are snapping these up as well.
http://www.emspowered.com/s...iews&products_id=188

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Report this Post07-13-2011 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mcgavinClick Here to visit mcgavin's HomePageClick Here to Email mcgavinSend a Private Message to mcgavinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have Rodney's running right now with a Dual (lame) amp. After only having 2 front speakers to now having a sub in the mix, its a huge improvement. Sound quality is pretty good even at high volume, but I don't really crank the bass either. The gain on the amp is all the way down and the headunit has barely any bass boost in play. For the price, it was worth it. However, at just a little more, the Tang is sounding like the way to go.

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Report this Post07-31-2011 10:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for landerSend a Private Message to landerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hello everyone, in your experience can the Tang-Band/ stock replica woofer set up as described in this thread be powered directly and simply from the head unit?

I understand it needs minimal wattage to fill out the sound. I'm trying to avoid adding another amp and its wiring (this is my first sub install.)
The HU is a higher end Kenwood, with 6 outputs (2 front, 2 back, 2 for sub) and built in sub preamp controls (cuttoffs, etc.)

It's 4 x 50 W, with a built in "Sub Woofer Reference Control Interface."

Looks like I'd have to bridge the subwoofer out channels into one for the mono sub, correct?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

L A

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Report this Post08-02-2011 09:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Kenwood model would help. I went to their website and didn't see anything with 6 powered channels.

I saw some "6-channel" units with 4-channels powered by the HU and with pre-amp subwoofer outputs - which would require an amp. for the subwoofer(s).

What does the installation manual that came with the thing say? Most show the options of how you'd connect the unit.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 08-02-2011).]

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lander
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Report this Post08-02-2011 10:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for landerSend a Private Message to landerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The model is KDC-BT948HD

Thanks Fierosound, you are correct, there are only four powered channels.
I'll seek out a small amp for the sub...(was hoping to avoid running amp cables to the battery is all.)

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Report this Post04-15-2012 12:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

BUMP

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BV MotorSports
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Report this Post04-17-2012 01:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BV MotorSportsClick Here to Email BV MotorSportsSend a Private Message to BV MotorSportsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nice! I'll have to try this. I just wanty to improve my sound quality, not go BOOM BOOM! I'll have to get the replacement box from TFS but it looks like it doesn't come with the port tube. Guess I'll have to try and find one of those as well.

I wonder if any other 5 1/2 sub would work? Several came up with a quick google search.

edit, Amazon has them for $30.

http://www.amazon.com/Tang-...Woofer/dp/B000BWXWTI
------------------
Whodeanie built 1988 Fiero GT, loaded, 14k original miles, 5MT w/ LSD, built 3800 swap, PT67 turbo, w2a charge-cooled, whodeanie headers, tune & cam. ----400-500whp?????? More mods when I get it back. Stay tuned!
1987 Fiero GT Road Racer. 1st documented 3.4TDC swap- built in 1994. 5MT Isuzu, Quaife prototype LSD, HT Tubular A-arms, Fully poly & Heim jointed suspension, Custom 3 way adjustible sway bars, HT Bump Steer kit, Koin's, 320# springs, GA brakes, ZEX N20 and more! Under full restoration.
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[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 04-17-2012).]

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Report this Post04-22-2012 10:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tom SlickClick Here to Email Tom SlickSend a Private Message to Tom SlickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


Because the tube is tuned for the stock speaker, it needs to be modified to match the new speaker's specs. Cut off 2 inches from the end. The housing is slightly undersize, so loosely stuff it and the tube with poly fiberfill (cheap at Walmart) to make it work better.


i'm considering doing this upgrade but i'm a little confused on what part you cut off. did you do the cutting where the MDF is in the pic above or was the cut on the port tube that comes out the top. please set me enlighten me before i do something stupid.

thanks...

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Report this Post04-22-2012 11:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

i'm considering doing this upgrade but i'm a little confused on what part you cut off. did you do the cutting where the MDF is in the pic above or was the cut on the port tube that comes out the top. please set me enlighten me before i do something stupid.

thanks...


The end of port tube to shorten it. No modification to the box itself.

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Report this Post04-22-2012 12:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for What about BobClick Here to Email What about BobSend a Private Message to What about BobEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Fierosound,
Did you have a template for the MDF cutout? I searched but only found your 4x10 for the front speakers.
Thanks,
Bob

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Report this Post04-22-2012 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by What about Bob:

Did you have a template for the MDF cutout? I searched but only found your 4x10 for the front speakers.



No template - the sub housings are too uneven.
Trace the thing on cardboard and cut it slightly smaller 'till it fits inside.

Use that for your MDF cut-out. Then make sure you center the speaker hole.
Drill pilot holes for all the screws, so you don't split the MDF.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-27-2012).]

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Tom Slick
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Report this Post04-25-2012 11:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tom SlickClick Here to Email Tom SlickSend a Private Message to Tom SlickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
The end of port tube to shorten it. No modification to the box itself.


thanks...
order the subwoofer can't wait to do this upgrade.

will tackle the component upgrade next

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Patrick
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Report this Post05-05-2012 07:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Just a tad off topic (but definitely related), would someone be so kind as to post the dimensions of the factory subwoofer tube. Mine has always been missing from my '86 GT. I'd like to make a replacement one up from PVC tubing.

I found these dimensions posted in an old thread, but it's not very clear where the measurements were actually made from.

 
quote
...the tube is 9 3/4" long by 2 1/4" tall and 1 1/2" in diameter.


I've included an image here that I found in an old thread. Keeping in mind where exactly I've indicated in the picture, could someone please tell me the measurement of both "A" and "B". Thanks.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-05-2012).]

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