I have an '88 5 speed. The driver's side axle seal was leaking. I pulled the axle, replaced the seal, and reinstalled. In fact, I did both axles while I was at it. I got everything back together and while still on jack stands I ran the car in gear. The driver's side was still leaking. Maybe I buggered the new seal. I did the job again. It is still leaking. I am quite sure the leak is coming from between the seal and the axle, not the seal and the transmission. My question here is do I have my axle in far enough? I think the retainer clip is clipped in. If it isn't in far enough the compression spring in seal won't grip the axle. If this happens it would surely leak.
Following is my driver's side. I can fit a 7/16" bolt head between the axle CV and the axle seal. Is this too much of a gap, meaning the axle should be in further?
Following is my passenger side. I can not fit the same 7/16" bolt head between the axle CV and the axle seal. I'm guessing the gap here is about 1/8" smaller. This side has not leaked (yet) during my testing.
Again, the driver's side axle sure felt like it clipped in, but what do I know. I've never did this job before.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
Originally posted by oneinch: I got everything back together and while still on jack stands I ran the car in gear.
It's not a good idea to run the wheels while on jacks with the axles fully extended. Trust me on this one. And "no" I've never done it.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
I would not recommend running the wheels with the car on jacks, not safe!
I built a pickle fork to assist install and removal of the axles, it makes the job easier. Use one inch external tube or bar, bend it into a U and weld on a handle.
Just be cautious around the boots and such, and it will work well!
I appreciate the multiple safety lectures. Fortunately I know how to block a car. I'll try tomorrow getting the axle in further as you suggested fieroguru. Thanks.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
Yes, it's not far enough in. I recently did my seals as well and you shouldn't have that much axle spindle exposed. Try taking it out again and checking the snap ring? Then reinsert the axle, and you should feel that the thing "clicks" into place.
Perhaps it doesn't seem so, but the axle is fulling inserted and engaged in the above photo. The seal is fully sealing around the axle. I took out the new axle and compared it a second time to the original axle. They are the same. I looked inside the transmission to have a looksee and took some measurements. Everything checks out.. The c-clip on the axle sits in a groove, but the c-clip does not fit into a corresponding groove in the transmission. The splines in the transmission (actually the differential case) are shorter in length than on the axle. The c-clip is compressed as it is being pushed into the differential case, when the clip is beyond the splines in the differential case it expands into open space. Long story short my axle is doing this. My problem is a worn out differential bearing and race. There could be other problems inside, but I'm guessing not. Watch this video to see the movement of the differential. The axle is just wobbling around in the transmission. The seal is only meant to seal around a stationary spinning axle. The seal can not handle the lateral forces it is be subjected to and oil easily gets by it. My transmission needs repaired.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
[This message has been edited by oneinch (edited 02-05-2021).]
I had a problem with the seals on my Getrag leaking and found a GM axle support bearing that fixed the problem, still good several years later. You can find the kits on ebay.
Yeah, your differential bearings are shot. Was it making any type of gear whine while being driven? Depending on how long it was driven like that, the output gear and pinion gear could have a lot of wear as well. Axle stabilizer bearings won't fix this.
I haven't driven the car. Well, just a quick jaunt before I bought the car on a gravel road really slow because the brakes hardly worked. The car has been on jack stands since I brought it home. A leaky axle seal was one of its problems. I finally got everything fixed that needed immediate attention, fired the car up for a quick test and inspection and saw the axle was still leaking. How long could it have been driven like this? I don't know. The car was last licensed in 2019. It belonged to a Missouri farmer. It wasn't a primary car. Anyhow, I guess I'm going to drop the cradle and send the transmission off the be overhauled. Hopefully it can be fixed successfully.
On the plus side, the engine has an oil leak and it is probably the rear main seal. I could live with this. Well, this will get fixed too. I'll re-gasket the engine while it is out. I'll remove the exhaust and most all components for the primary reason of breaking lose 30+ year connections. This way if something needs services later I can be certain that the bolts and nuts will come loose easily and not break. I'll take care of other things that will be easy with the engine out. I'll clean up the engine bay as well. I won't do a concourse restoration, but it will all look newish when it goes back together and hopefully be super reliable. I'm about tired of working on the thing. I just keep chugging along.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
[This message has been edited by oneinch (edited 02-06-2021).]
