So my clutch pedal sits even with my brake pedal and has to be all the way to the floor to fully disengage the clutch. I’ve read numerous threads about bent pedal bracket and how to resolve either by rodneys adjustable banjo bolt or by reshaping the bracket or both.

My pedal bracket doesn’t appear to be bent but I’ve also read where others have said the same thing only to remove it and found it was bent. Before going down that road I’m leaning towards the adjustable banjo bolt.

However, I disconnected my banjo bolt and pulled the pedal back and it stops at about a half an inch above the brake pedal instead of the required one inch. The upward travel, hard stop, is limited by the cruise disconnect switch. There is still a gap between the pedal bracket and the fixed switchplate bracket.



So, what should be the physical upward hard stop? The cruise disconnect switch is adjustable and by bringing it out, it would allow the pedal more upward travel. Not sure if I’d then have to adjust the clutch safety switch as well? Basically, once everything is adjusted properly, what should limit the pedal upward movement allowing it to sit one inch above the brake pedal and is rodneys adjustable banjo the way to go?

Thanks.

If your clutch hydraulic system has been bled, and your clutch still barely disengages with the clutch pedal to the floor.... then yes, you want as much clutch pedal travel as you can muster.

Rodney's adjustable banjo is great, but it's also also pretty easy to modify a factory one to be adjustable.

Is the banjo bolt installed with the loop up?

You might want to read about my adventures with a clutch pedal which would not rise fully: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...120111-2-108553.html

GL,

Larry

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[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 02-05-2021).]

Ok, got some time to crawl back under there.

OleJoe, the banjo bolt is in the correct orientation but still may be an issue? More on that in a bit.

Larry, after reading your post it appears to be exactly what I’m dealing with...kind of. My upward travel of the clutch pedal appeared to be limited by the cruise disconnect switch as shown in my picture. I disconnected the banjo bolt from the pedal and backed the cruise switch out enough to allow the clutch pedal to travel further aft/up so it will be one inch above the brake pedal. Great, until I went to put the banjo bolt back on and it won’t reach. It appears when the banjo bolt is fully extended it only reaches far enough to allow the clutch pedal to be even with the brake pedal. So the banjo bolt is basically the “stop” or limiting factor (joe you may have eluded to that) and the switch must have been adjusted to accommodate it.

So, at first thought, an adjustable banjo bolt should solve the problem. In fact, I’m not sure if the clutch master cylinder/ banjo bolt was ever replaced and perhaps the new banjo bolt was too short?
However, one concern that comes to mind, is if I use an adjustable banjo bolt (longer), Wouldn’t I also be increasing the stroke of the master cylinder? That may be ok and what I need, but can I run the risk of getting too long of a stroke and end up hyper extending the hydraulic throw out bearing?

Lots of moving parts here and I just don’t want to make it worse.

And here’s a pic of my master cylinder. Maybe someone can identify it as stock or aftermarket.

quote Originally posted by ninedriver: ...can I run the risk of getting too long of a stroke and end up hyper extending the hydraulic throw out bearing?

Say what?

In researching this problem I came across some threads where guys were damaging their pressure plate / clutch because their HTOB was over-engaging?. Apparently they had to use washers to shim out the clutch master cylinder from its mounting location. Maybe I’m confusing apples with oranges, idk.

My thinking is, if I use an adjustable (longer) banjo bolt, it will allow for a longer piston stroke within the clutch master cylinder which will translate to longer movement on the slave cylinder and HTOB. Unless, maybe, regardless of the banjo bolt length the piston would bottom out (stop) when it reaches the maximum travel inside the master cylinder...is that occurring now or will a longer bolt indeed add more stroke?

Again, something doesn’t seem right with my set up, but I don’t want to make things worse.

quote Originally posted by ninedriver: In researching this problem I came across some threads where guys were damaging their pressure plate / clutch because their HTOB was over-engaging?

Do you have a non-factory clutch/transmission installed? Fieros did not come with HTOB.

A ha... I do not. Mine is original. I must have been confusing that with some threads where guys have performed swaps. Again, I’ve been trying to read everything on clutch pedal positions. Thanks for clarifying that!

So, will I encounter any problems by lengthening my banjo bolt?

quote Originally posted by ninedriver: So, will I encounter any problems by lengthening my banjo bolt?

There are some clutches that aren't happy with too much slave movement, but if that's the case just adjust the banjo bolt a bit shorter.

You haven't stated what transmission you've got, but the Isuzu requires slave movement of about 1-1/8" to fully disengage.

How much travel does your slave currently have?

I have the stock 5 speed getrag transmission.

When I fully depress the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder rod extends and moves the clutch operating lever on the transaxle approximately 5/8”.

The pedal feels great, has constant pressure but not too stiff, returns nicely. It just feels like the clutch disconnect point is too close to the floor and the pedal only returns to even with the brake pedal.

quote Originally posted by ninedriver: I have the stock 5 speed getrag transmission. When I fully depress the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder rod extends and moves the clutch operating lever on the transaxle approximately 5/8”.

In my experience, the Getrag is more forgiving than the Isuzu (in regards to minimum slave travel required), but I don't believe 5/8" is enough to fully disengage the clutch.

It's a simple solution... you need more pedal travel.