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Replacing warped front rotor. Is this what I need? by Cliff Pennock
Started on: 07-28-2020 03:45 PM
Replies: 54 (1030 views)
Last post by: dremu on 10-05-2020 11:44 AM
Cliff Pennock
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Report this Post07-28-2020 03:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
One of my front brake rotors is warped and I want to replace it. Will this one do?

https://www.winparts.nl/rem...7.html#specificaties

Specs:

Outer diameter: 10.4"
Rotor thickness: 0.74"
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Report this Post07-28-2020 04:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dremuSend a Private Message to dremuEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
edited because forums.

[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 07-29-2020).]

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Report this Post07-28-2020 04:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

We often need to ask the newbs what year their Fiero is.
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cvxjet
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Report this Post07-28-2020 05:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
1984-87 front rotors are un-vented and part of the hub.....1988 rotors are vented, separate and the same on all four corners.....
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Report this Post07-28-2020 05:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dremuSend a Private Message to dremuEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


We often need to ask the newbs what year their Fiero is.


Or the n00bs shouldn't post answers I forget that the '88's are the odd one out.

-- A


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Report this Post07-28-2020 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You need the rotor, inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, wheel bearing seal, cotter pin, and grease for the bearings.

-Remove caliper
-Remove dust cap
-Remove cotter pin
-Remove castle nut
-remove washer
-Reinstall castle nut
-Grab both sides of the rotor and pull as hard as you can
-Remove castle nut and inner bearing
-Clean spindle
-Pack new bearings with grease, install inner bearing and seal on rotor
-Apply new grease to spindle, reinstall rotor assembly
-Install outer bearing, washer, and castle nut
-Spin hub while tightening castle nut JUST SLIGHTLY
-Install cotter pin and dust cap

Here's video of a small girl taking it apart:



Not a Fiero but similar:

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post07-28-2020 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
With new front rotors I would try to buy a reputable brand like Raybestos, Bendix or AC Delco. I've had very good luck with the Centric brand as well. For bearings, Nachi, NTN, or Timken are quality.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Report this Post07-28-2020 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
84-87 front:

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 07-28-2020).]

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Report this Post07-28-2020 06:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You new 2 rotors, new pads, and maybe caliper(s).
84-87 front likely need new bearings and seals to go into new rotors.

Rotors don't just warp by themselves.
stuck sliders and other parts or bad caliper(s) can make pad to drag and over heat the rotor cause big problems.

Need Brake Grease to lube sliders etc.
See my Cave, Brake Service
and Front Bearings for 84-87 Fiero

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

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Report this Post07-28-2020 07:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dremu:

Or the n00bs shouldn't post answers I forget that the '88's are the odd one out.


Hey, I know the feeling.
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cvxjet
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Report this Post07-28-2020 09:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey Dremu, we all make mistakes when we move fast; The only reason I have the brake differences down pat is that My 85 Fiero has been converted to 88 brakes.....But if I'm not paying attention and use the wrong manual I can still get pretty confus-A-vated.........
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Report this Post07-29-2020 12:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dremuSend a Private Message to dremuEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
And nobody has noticed that what Cliff posted is for an '88, NOT f'or '84-87? If '88, NONE of the instructructions and such here really apply

Cliff, what year do you have?

-- A
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Report this Post07-29-2020 01:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I think Cliff is requiring a front rotor for his Waaijenberg Canta.

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Report this Post07-29-2020 01:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dremu:
And nobody has noticed that what Cliff posted is for an '88, NOT f'or '84-87? If '88, NONE of the instructructions and such here really apply

Cliff, what year do you have?
My post does apply to all. Just added notes for older version because I don't keep track who has what car.

Example: 88 sliders need Brake Grease too or will quickly "rust freeze" in the bores.
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Report this Post07-29-2020 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thought that was general knowledge by now. 😁

86.5 GT
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Report this Post07-29-2020 08:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Cliff Pennock

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quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:

84-87 front:




Having a hard time finding these in the Netherlands. What other cars are using these?
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Report this Post07-29-2020 09:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:

84-87 front:





Fiero front hub/rotor is a "Fiero only" part.
http://www.fierofocus.com/f...BrakeComponents.html

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-29-2020).]

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Report this Post07-29-2020 11:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RPYRAZOOClick Here to visit RPYRAZOO's HomePageSend a Private Message to RPYRAZOOEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick: You're a trip!
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Report this Post07-29-2020 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick- Maybe he has a three-wheeler....


Cliff, Amazon has them in the US...I suspect you could get them to send one thru Amazon UK......Bendix Brakes PRT1286...


But the back will look like this (The HUB is integral)

[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 07-29-2020).]

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Report this Post07-29-2020 12:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

cvxjet

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I guess that I should first PREVIEW every picture post- I do not fully get the damn "Want to overwrite image" crap....

The threewheeler image was supposed to be this;


And the front of the hub looks like this;

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Report this Post07-30-2020 08:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Warping is often caused by heat and the sudden application of cold on untreated rotors. I am a big proponent of heat treating rotors before installing them. Years back all brake rotors were heat treated, but now with the flood of Chinese product this is probably not the case.
About 30 minutes in an oven at 400* is what I use to heat treat my rotors and prepare them for installation. With heat treating I have never had a problem with rotors warping or disc life.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Report this Post07-30-2020 11:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Knight RiderSend a Private Message to Knight RiderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
How about doing a Grand Am front brake upgrade.

[This message has been edited by Knight Rider (edited 07-30-2020).]

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Report this Post07-30-2020 12:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Knight Rider:

How about doing a Grand Am front brake upgrade.



If that's a road-side job that can be done in a reasonable amount of time, I'm all for it, since I can't seem to find these rotors anywhere in Europe...
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Report this Post07-30-2020 12:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Cliff Pennock

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I just checked RockAuto and shipping really isn't all that bad, only $23 or so.

But there are a number of brands I can choose from and since I have no experience with any of those brands, is somebody willing to check RockAuto for me and tell me which part numbers I need?

I need one rotor, inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, wheel bearing seal and a cotter pin.
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Report this Post08-01-2020 09:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

I just checked RockAuto and shipping really isn't all that bad, only $23 or so.

But there are a number of brands I can choose from and since I have no experience with any of those brands, is somebody willing to check RockAuto for me and tell me which part numbers I need?

I need one rotor, inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, wheel bearing seal and a cotter pin.


Front Wheel bearings for the Fiero are standard tapered roller bearings that are available all over the world at any bearing or power equipment supply house. The seal is National 3357
Front Inner Wheel Bearing. Industry standard P/N L44649/L44610 This is the inner and outer P/N's set
Front Outer Wheel bearing Industry standard P/N L11749/L11710
Cotter pins are very standard hardware parts available at any auto store.
For front brake rotors Bendix (PRT1286) , Raybestos (R5009R), Wagner (BD60726) and Centric (12162018) . They are all good. Many come with the seal.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 08-01-2020).]

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Report this Post08-01-2020 01:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PKSend a Private Message to PKEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You will need to change both front discs (and any other brake components) to follow good practice.
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Report this Post08-01-2020 05:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for steve308Send a Private Message to steve308Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Report this Post08-03-2020 11:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Probably a good idea to do front pads and both rotors, depending how old/worn what's on there is?

From Rock Auto's site,

Front pads Raybestos PGD261M
Front Rotor Raybestos 5009R
Inner wheel bearing Timken SET4
Outer wheel bearing Timken SET1
(Timken makes great bearings, they're all I use when they're available, I have these on my Fiero)
Wheel seal Timken 3357

The cotter pin you can get locally, nothing special about it, auto parts store or hardware store.
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Report this Post08-04-2020 04:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
just take your old rotor in and have it "TURNED"
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Report this Post08-05-2020 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
GA "Upgrade" often will Not pass EU car inspections for same or different reasons as some cover in my cave in many member countries.
UK MOT and many others are far more strict then most of US state inspections and many are getting or recently gotten harder to pass. Like UK MOT updated their rules in spring of 2019 and can Fail for more issues/problems.

 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:
just take your old rotor in and have it "TURNED"
That only works when the rotors meet some rules to start w/.
Many Fronts Rotors, and not just Fiero ones, have worn or warped to much to "turn" to be above the "machine to" limit.
See my Cave, Brake Rotors Spec
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Report this Post08-05-2020 07:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

Front Wheel bearings for the Fiero are standard tapered roller bearings that are available all over the world at any bearing or power equipment supply house. The seal is National 3357
Front Inner Wheel Bearing. Industry standard P/N L44649/L44610 This is the inner and outer P/N's set
Front Outer Wheel bearing Industry standard P/N L11749/L11710
Cotter pins are very standard hardware parts available at any auto store.
For front brake rotors Bendix (PRT1286) , Raybestos (R5009R), Wagner (BD60726) and Centric (12162018) . They are all good. Many come with the seal.


I was able to find the wheel bearings here, but there's a huge difference in price depending on the brand. Timken bearings are about $20 per set (so 4x more expensive than in the US), but other brands are $3 per set. I'm guessing the $3 ones are Chinese brands. Is there any danger in buying cheap Chinese bearings? Or should I go with the more expensive ones?
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Report this Post08-05-2020 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike in SydneySend a Private Message to Mike in SydneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Cliff, you've probably heard the old saying, "you get what you pay for". I know they are pricey but my suggestion, for what it's worth, is not to cheap out on bearings, brake, and suspension components. I've had bad experience with no-name chinesium parts so I tend to stay with the big name manufacturers. Even they make stuff in China but their quality control, fit, and finish is better.

------------------
Mike in Sydney

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Report this Post08-19-2020 01:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What are the size of the cotter pins? I want to buy these beforehand so I can replace the rotors in one go without having to make a trip to the hardware store when the wheels are off.
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Report this Post08-19-2020 04:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Once you get the old pin off, just take the train to the auto parts store and compare it to what they have on the shelf

[This message has been edited by RWDPLZ (edited 08-19-2020).]

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Report this Post08-19-2020 08:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroWannaBeSend a Private Message to FieroWannaBeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

What are the size of the cotter pins? I want to buy these beforehand so I can replace the rotors in one go without having to make a trip to the hardware store when the wheels are off.


1/8" x 1-1/2"
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Report this Post08-20-2020 01:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:

Once you get the old pin off, just take the train to the auto parts store and compare it to what they have on the shelf



😁
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Report this Post08-20-2020 02:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Geez man, haven't you got a few of these kicking around?




...
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Report this Post08-20-2020 10:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David RiedleSend a Private Message to David RiedleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dennis LaGrua ABSOLUTELY has superb advice. Heat each rotor for 30 minutes at 400 degrees. If I did two rotors at once, I left them in the oven for 45 minutes due to the temperature drop caused by the second rotor.

Even better is to start the rotors in a cold oven, turn it on to 400 degrees, and heat them for an hour.

I would always have the rotors skimmed after heat treating. (This may just be me...lerned this working the chief mechanic who kept the rally cars in one piece. Old school racing mechanic.)

Also, use a known brand for rotors. There are a lot of cheap parts out there...

Dave Riedle
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Report this Post08-21-2020 10:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

One of my front brake rotors is warped and I want to replace it. Will this one do?

https://www.winparts.nl/rem...7.html#specificaties

Specs:

Outer diameter: 10.4"
Rotor thickness: 0.74"


If the photo from the part in the link is correct, you must have a 1988. If that is the case, all of the wheel bearing and seal stuff may not apply, although checking the bearing and seal while you are there can't hurt. If I could read the language in the link, I could better answer your question. Sorry.

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Report this Post09-29-2020 07:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

About 30 minutes in an oven at 400* is what I use to heat treat my rotors and prepare them for installation.


Put the rotors in my oven and let them heat with my oven to 400*, then heat them at 400* for about 40 minutes.
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