You need the rotor, inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, wheel bearing seal, cotter pin, and grease for the bearings.
-Remove caliper -Remove dust cap -Remove cotter pin -Remove castle nut -remove washer -Reinstall castle nut -Grab both sides of the rotor and pull as hard as you can -Remove castle nut and inner bearing -Clean spindle -Pack new bearings with grease, install inner bearing and seal on rotor -Apply new grease to spindle, reinstall rotor assembly -Install outer bearing, washer, and castle nut -Spin hub while tightening castle nut JUST SLIGHTLY -Install cotter pin and dust cap
With new front rotors I would try to buy a reputable brand like Raybestos, Bendix or AC Delco. I've had very good luck with the Centric brand as well. For bearings, Nachi, NTN, or Timken are quality.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Hey Dremu, we all make mistakes when we move fast; The only reason I have the brake differences down pat is that My 85 Fiero has been converted to 88 brakes.....But if I'm not paying attention and use the wrong manual I can still get pretty confus-A-vated.........
Originally posted by dremu: And nobody has noticed that what Cliff posted is for an '88, NOT f'or '84-87? If '88, NONE of the instructructions and such here really apply
Cliff, what year do you have?
My post does apply to all. Just added notes for older version because I don't keep track who has what car.
Example: 88 sliders need Brake Grease too or will quickly "rust freeze" in the bores.
Warping is often caused by heat and the sudden application of cold on untreated rotors. I am a big proponent of heat treating rotors before installing them. Years back all brake rotors were heat treated, but now with the flood of Chinese product this is probably not the case. About 30 minutes in an oven at 400* is what I use to heat treat my rotors and prepare them for installation. With heat treating I have never had a problem with rotors warping or disc life.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
If that's a road-side job that can be done in a reasonable amount of time, I'm all for it, since I can't seem to find these rotors anywhere in Europe...
I just checked RockAuto and shipping really isn't all that bad, only $23 or so.
But there are a number of brands I can choose from and since I have no experience with any of those brands, is somebody willing to check RockAuto for me and tell me which part numbers I need?
I need one rotor, inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, wheel bearing seal and a cotter pin.
I just checked RockAuto and shipping really isn't all that bad, only $23 or so.
But there are a number of brands I can choose from and since I have no experience with any of those brands, is somebody willing to check RockAuto for me and tell me which part numbers I need?
I need one rotor, inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, wheel bearing seal and a cotter pin.
Front Wheel bearings for the Fiero are standard tapered roller bearings that are available all over the world at any bearing or power equipment supply house. The seal is National 3357 Front Inner Wheel Bearing. Industry standard P/N L44649/L44610 This is the inner and outer P/N's set Front Outer Wheel bearing Industry standard P/N L11749/L11710 Cotter pins are very standard hardware parts available at any auto store. For front brake rotors Bendix (PRT1286) , Raybestos (R5009R), Wagner (BD60726) and Centric (12162018) . They are all good. Many come with the seal.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 08-01-2020).]
Probably a good idea to do front pads and both rotors, depending how old/worn what's on there is?
From Rock Auto's site,
Front pads Raybestos PGD261M Front Rotor Raybestos 5009R Inner wheel bearing Timken SET4 Outer wheel bearing Timken SET1 (Timken makes great bearings, they're all I use when they're available, I have these on my Fiero) Wheel seal Timken 3357
The cotter pin you can get locally, nothing special about it, auto parts store or hardware store.
GA "Upgrade" often will Not pass EU car inspections for same or different reasons as some cover in my cave in many member countries. UK MOT and many others are far more strict then most of US state inspections and many are getting or recently gotten harder to pass. Like UK MOT updated their rules in spring of 2019 and can Fail for more issues/problems.
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: just take your old rotor in and have it "TURNED"
That only works when the rotors meet some rules to start w/. Many Fronts Rotors, and not just Fiero ones, have worn or warped to much to "turn" to be above the "machine to" limit. See my Cave, Brake Rotors Spec
Front Wheel bearings for the Fiero are standard tapered roller bearings that are available all over the world at any bearing or power equipment supply house. The seal is National 3357 Front Inner Wheel Bearing. Industry standard P/N L44649/L44610 This is the inner and outer P/N's set Front Outer Wheel bearing Industry standard P/N L11749/L11710 Cotter pins are very standard hardware parts available at any auto store. For front brake rotors Bendix (PRT1286) , Raybestos (R5009R), Wagner (BD60726) and Centric (12162018) . They are all good. Many come with the seal.
I was able to find the wheel bearings here, but there's a huge difference in price depending on the brand. Timken bearings are about $20 per set (so 4x more expensive than in the US), but other brands are $3 per set. I'm guessing the $3 ones are Chinese brands. Is there any danger in buying cheap Chinese bearings? Or should I go with the more expensive ones?
Cliff, you've probably heard the old saying, "you get what you pay for". I know they are pricey but my suggestion, for what it's worth, is not to cheap out on bearings, brake, and suspension components. I've had bad experience with no-name chinesium parts so I tend to stay with the big name manufacturers. Even they make stuff in China but their quality control, fit, and finish is better.
What are the size of the cotter pins? I want to buy these beforehand so I can replace the rotors in one go without having to make a trip to the hardware store when the wheels are off.
What are the size of the cotter pins? I want to buy these beforehand so I can replace the rotors in one go without having to make a trip to the hardware store when the wheels are off.
Dennis LaGrua ABSOLUTELY has superb advice. Heat each rotor for 30 minutes at 400 degrees. If I did two rotors at once, I left them in the oven for 45 minutes due to the temperature drop caused by the second rotor.
Even better is to start the rotors in a cold oven, turn it on to 400 degrees, and heat them for an hour.
I would always have the rotors skimmed after heat treating. (This may just be me...lerned this working the chief mechanic who kept the rally cars in one piece. Old school racing mechanic.)
Also, use a known brand for rotors. There are a lot of cheap parts out there...
If the photo from the part in the link is correct, you must have a 1988. If that is the case, all of the wheel bearing and seal stuff may not apply, although checking the bearing and seal while you are there can't hurt. If I could read the language in the link, I could better answer your question. Sorry.
I forget that the '88's are the odd one out.
