It’s been a few days but I can finally update the story while I wait for a bunch of 3800sc swap parts to arrive.
As stated before I just replaced the brake lines and installed braided steel hoses. I reinstalled the fuel tank (for the first time at this point) and started to convert the A/C to R-134.
This was actually a relatively easy job. Especially after I figured out how easy the spare tire tub was to remove. Made access to the fitting on the drivers front frame rail much easier. This discovery would have shaved probably an hour and a half off the time it took me to replace the brake lines
Along with replacing the O rings. I did the due diligence of replacing the accumulator because the system was open for so long. While there. I took the blower motor and resistor out to take a gander inside. Wow that was absolutely disgusting and packed with mouse nest. Thank god it got cleaned out.
After that job was completed I changed out the two switches mounted in the compressor. The Fiero Store sells one of the new style switches for $50... I actually did some research on the forum to find the part numbers and was able to find them both for ~$35 shipped to my house! Not bad. Fingerprints Workshop on YouTube has a video of him converting the compressor switches for clarification. I wired the switches up slightly different than him but either way does the job
(I also installed new front radiator hoses during this point that I got from the Fiero Store. I had to shorten the hoses to have them fit)
Now most of my parts arrived to start on the engine. Decided to tackle the most time consuming part, the broken exhaust manifold bolts. I had 2 initially, but one broke upon removal on the rear of the engine. I ordered Rodney Dickman’s Exhaust manifold bolt Jig to help.
Rodney’s jig lined up perfect, and the various inserts used in junction with the drill bits worked amazing. Only issues I ran into were with the drill bits and thread tap themselves. I burnt through the two bits not even halfway through the first bolts. BUT I went out and bought more bits the same size and I burnt through them very quick as well. And I tried everything, lube, no lube, more pressure, less pressure, more speed, less speed. I guess I can’t use a drill correctly
As for the tap, which I do know how to use haha, it broke the first hole as well. I replaced with an Irwin tap that I had and had no trouble.
Overall 10/10 recommend Rodney’s jig. Just make sure you know how to drill metal haha
Reinstalled the exhaust manifolds and started with the intake manifold. I removed the upper intake manifold and of course, a lot of the vacuum lines cracked. I replaced those later with Dorman lines later. With the upper intake removed. The coolant lines to the throttle body were deleted, with the inlet and outlets just capped off with rubber caps and hose clamps for now
I proceeded to remove the fuel rail and injectors to clean.
Went the route of deleting the cold start injector, just because of all the problems I’ve heard, and because I didn’t want to wait for a rebuild kit. I plugged the fuel rail with a drain plug of the same thread pitch and plugged the hole on the lower intake with a freeze plug mentioned in another thread I read on here. Later on I made the decision that I was going to reverse that and reinstall the cold start injector. I didn’t like the crank times later on being in the solid 6-7 second range just for the car the sputter the first time it fired after sitting. Once it started, it would fire up quickly.
I removed the fuel rail and injectors, injectors “Appeared fine” at this point in time, and found no traces of rust from the tank accumulated in the rail. That’s great! I still replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and cleaned the injectors in an ultrasonic cleaner. Took care not to completely submerge the injectors to prevent solvent from entering the injectors through the connector face.
Removed the middle intake plenum and replaced the valve cover gasket and PCV grommets. Reinstalled the middle plenum with new gaskets. Installed the fuel rail and injectors
Side note: 5/6 injector retaining clips were destroyed upon removal. I was able to reinstall the injectors without the retaining clips successfully without fuel leaks in the future. So a +1 to saying you don’t “need” them that there were a few discussions on the forum that I read on when my clips were destroyed.
Replaced all of the broken vacuum lines that ran under the intake and replaced the leaking EGR feed tube. And finally reinstalled the upper intake plenum. ( I also replaced the EGR valve stand off due to the feed tube nuts and studs being so rotted away so I got that from the Fiero Store as well)
This point it’s time to install the few little things left.
Replaced the broken alternator bracket, (but kept he same alternator for now) installed new belts for the a/c and alternator. Replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Now time for the exhaust
Y Pipe was reinstalled with a New O2 sensor for good measure.
I also bought The Fiero Stores catalytic converter delete pipe due to my Cat being rotted out, and where I live you don’t have to do emissions testing on vehicles build before ‘96. And I gotta say. I either didn’t do enough research but the pipe didn’t fit well. The flange side that connects to the Y pipe is a different size, and didn’t like the stock doughnut gasket. I had to actually shave down the gasket to it to somewhat seal. Also the bends of the pipe didn’t match up well. It took a lot of man handling for it to fit
At this point the engine was ready to be reinstalled into the car!
[This message has been edited by Gunganking (edited 07-05-2020).]