Greetings all, last night I was driving down the road and all my instrument lights went out. I looked at all the fuses and they seem to be whole. Is it possible for fuse to blow and you can't see it. Is there any place else I should go looking . Appreciate any guidance you can provide.

Much thanks, Bob

I know it seems odd, but check the light bulbs in back.....both running lights and brake lights. Yes it is possible that the fuse looks good but is bad.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 01-29-2020).]

Can be one to several things cutting power etc. to dash and other light bulbs connected to the dimmer.
See my Cave, Dash Dimmer

Replace 5a Inst LP fuse even if looks good. Sometimes Fuses can break internally w/o blowing outright making iffy/no contact between terminals.

If has LED... Most LED for cars won't dim right w/ most dimmers. Turn dimmer even a little often makes LED to turn off.

Fiero FSM and most others have errors for dash bulbs. Correct bulb layout for the dash... https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/138175.html

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-29-2020).]

Ogre beat me to it.
I've seen several instances of dash lights just "going out".
The problem has always been the transistor / heat sink assembly. (It's under the dash, between the steering column and the radio pod. You'll have to stand on your head to see it.)

The quick and dirty fix is probably to just solder the transistor pins into the socket on the heat sink. (Remove/unplug the assembly from under the dash, first. Held in by a couple of fasteners.)
Be sure to use rosin core solder, and don't over heat the pins.

Don't worry about the white paste that you'll see. It's thermal compound. It's supposed to be there. It is not corrosion.

I just replaced a trunk light fuse that didn't look blown. We expect them to blow in the big visible area. This one had blown at the very end where the element attached to the pin. I actually didn't find it until after I had replaced it with another fuse and the light came on. It took very close inspection to see the break.

Well I went ahead and put a working dimmer switch on from another car and I checked the fuse panel the 5 amp instrument LP was dead on both sides removed to fuse and checked the clips and they were both off with ignition on and lights up. Not quite sure where to go next. Would appreciate any thoughts

Thanks, Bob

Inst LP is to protect the trans. You can bypass the trans to deliver "12v" and not blown that fuse.

If 5a fuse was obviously blown.... You have to look at all bulbs and sockets first.
Example: dash sockets can break metal part that could get loose and short out the dash "board."
If can't find it that way then maybe a wire problem like wire hit sharp metal and cut thru insulation. short finder might help if still blows fuses... example: https://www.amazon.com/Tool...ester/dp/B000RFLR0U/

Besides dash bulbs, dimmer controls lights for cig lighter, heat/ac head, at shifter, maybe ashtrays, aux inst pod in GT, maybe a few others.
ETA-->radio light and chime unit. Dimmer off then Chime won't ding for HL lights.

If any fuse breaks then can be just old age.
Fuses get heat cycles causing stress in metal and can break.
If someone adds more load like using bright dash bulbs and/or adds more normal bulbs... Might not push 5a but extra load just speeds up this issue.

Most People don't know Fuses are Very low value Resisters and get heated a bit in normal use.
Then add cabin temps reach 160-200°F to lowest Temp in winter.
Just Heat/cold over 30+ years can stress any Electrical part. Car power isn't very stable either causing stress in E parts too.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-02-2020).]