So I had to remove my firewall insulation when i swaped out my 2.8 for another 2.8 years ago. Just recently I've done the carpet. I noticed when i had the backboard and carpet removed the firewall temps were warming my neck. lol. So I got out the temp gun and I'm getting a temp pf 140F front and back of the bare firewall drivers side top. Is this too much? There is no signs of paint buring, or wire harness burning back there. No signs of that. Just noticed it was hot when putting the back of my hand behind the head on my seat.
I'm wondering if now would be a good time to add insulation to the interior side of the firewall. Or is the OEM still good enough? And while we are here... How is the OEM stuff compared to other aftermarket insulation for sound?
Many are missing heat shield(s) in engine bay making cabin and/or trunk hot. Many have exhaust problem(s) w/ leaks and/or shield(s) on pipes etc. Recall docs covers most of shields... See links in my Cave, Do You Recall?
Also ECM have heat problem too. See my Cave, ECM Heat Plus some have bad bulkhead seals where cables pass thru the FW letting heat and fumes in the cabin.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I used Thermo-Tec fiber mat with aluminum foil on both sides. One 0.25x48x72" sheet was enough to cover most of the firewall with 2 layers. I also used the firewall heat shield template from Fiero Sails ( http://fierosails.com/heatshield.html ). I never took the time to do a scientific analysis. But the firewall doesn't seem to get very hot. My car has no interior carpet or padding (the interior is gutted), so the heat shield material is the only insulation on the firewall.
Personally, I don't think the brand name matters as much as simply having a heat shield. Even the cheap stuff will be better than nothing.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-18-2018).]
I have used this product at 1/2" thick (they have 1" thick, but that's a little much). If you insulate the area between the double firewall brace and the bottom of the rear windshield, the material in 1 box will do 2 Fieros.
Any sound deadner like FaMat or MightyMatt should be a peel and stick. You do not need anything else to apply it. What you will need to do is clean the area before so that you have a good surface stick to. The process is not hard to do just time consuming.
I did a trial an error with two types of stuff, and had fantastic results.
I ran this stuff on the inside, with fantastic results. It really quieted the cabin down, was easy to apply, and has held up very well over a few years. I think I had to get about 50sqft to coat the interior of the Fiero(everything but the roof and behind the dash).
In the engine bay I used this, which has done wonders. The only time it fell off was when I had to use a blow torch to get a bolt out, the rest of it has been fine. It massively kept temps down in the cabin. I used it around the front and back of the engine bay.
I used left over interior deadening and engine bay insulation(from the links) to line the inside engine side of the trunk and now the trunk stays consistently cool. I drove 14 hours straight with a 3800 and there was still ice in my water bottle in the trunk! When I open the decklid there is a massive difference in temp between the two sections. This stuff works.
Looks like Mighty Matt will do just fine for interior firewall insulation. It's cheap too! I assume I use 3m adhesive to apply the matt?
I applied mine on the engine side of the firewall, using 3m spray adhesive ( not self stick). If you apply it on the inside of the firewall, not sure it will be quit as effective, but still should work.
