checked pennocks for info, all say buy ONLY Cardone Select # 5513114. Nothing on Ebay, Auto Zone or O'Reillys here in Chicago. Does this Cardone ALWAYS come with the clamp ( or wedge) with plug AND is the impeller metal and not plastic.. Any idea where to buy ????
Got a call from a fellow Fiero owner and he said check out the " DUROLAST Water Pump that comes with a tube, gasket, and bracket ( clamp ??) anyone know if this is a good replacement???? or stick with Cardone # 5513114.
If you get the tube, gasket, clamp and the pump has a metal impeller, it's probably just a matter of cost. I recently found that Duralast brake calipers are the same as the Raybestos and Bendix calipers sold by Rock Auto.
checked pennocks for info, all say buy ONLY Cardone Select # 5513114
I had stated Here to buy the Cardone pump, but only because I knew for sure that it included what was necessary and that it worked.
It was one of the few auto parts purchases I've made locally, instead of on-line, as I wanted to see for myself that it was going to be suitable. It cost me a bit more this way, but it was worth the peace of mind.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-14-2016).]
I'd go Cardone. The select brand is a new pump not a remanufactured. Cardone has been around forever and has always backed the products I have purchased from them. The water pump is a PITA to do so you only want to do it once.
I'd go Cardone. The select brand is a new pump not a remanufactured. Cardone has been around forever and has always backed the products I have purchased from them. The water pump is a PITA to do so you only want to do it once.
And if you don't use the timing cover clamp, you'll be doing it again to replace the timing cover gasket.
The easiest way to replace the water pump---let someone else do it and get a workmanship guarantee.
The Cardone is only $19.95 at Rock Auto. Otherwise, store brands should be readily available since the same water pump was used on dozens of other GM models during the same period as the Fiero. Open the box at the store and if parts are missing (gasket, clamp etc) don't buy it. I used the one from Autozone on mine (Duralast, I suppose; I don't remember anymore) and it had all the parts. Its been perfect for 13 years since I installed it. Unfortunately I no longer have the clamp since I mailed it to another forum member who needed it some years ago.
Yours is an '85 so it'll have regular metric hex bolts and not Torx so yours will be easier.
Gates (yes the company that makes belts and hoses) has a water pump for the V6 that fits the bill (metal impeller and comes with the clamp). It is part number 43092 and is available from Rock Auto for $24.
Does this imply that when doing an engine rebuild, when installing the timing cover for the first time, that the timing cover needs to be installed with the clamp? And then the clamp must not be removed until the water pump is installed?
I think the problem arises because the water pump is stuck to the timing cover after many years of heat being applied. It probably tends to pull that area of the timing cover with it when separating the pump. It probably wouldn't hurt to use the clamp, though.
Does this imply that when doing an engine rebuild, when installing the timing cover for the first time, that the timing cover needs to be installed with the clamp? And then the clamp must not be removed until the water pump is installed?
Nope. In this case you are only installing a pump to the timing cover.
The problem is trying to remove a pump. When you remove a pump you may pull the timing cover and the timing cover gasket away from the block. This is a non-issue on a full rebuild.
[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 09-15-2016).]
You can purchase a holding fixture that prevents the separation of the timing cover (and gasket) when replacing the water pump. TIp: when replacing the pump be sure to use good condition bolts and put thread sealant on the threads to prevent leaks. Hytack or Teflon paste seems to work well. Also remove the battery and cover the fiberglass insulation with a plastic bag so you won't be irritated by it. Its a PITA job but doable from the engine compartment.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Just want to thank you guys for the inputs. I'm not that savy with repairs but have the " urge" to do this job. I just need some confidence, balls and brains. Really appreciate your help guys.
Just want to thank you guys for the inputs. I'm not that savy with repairs but have the " urge" to do this job. I just need some confidence, balls and brains. Really appreciate your help guys.
Not hard, just tedious. You will also need Torx sockets to remove a few bolts. You can do it. .
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Use your new water pump to see where bolt holes are located. Inspect the one you're removing to be sure that every bolt is removed from every corresponding hole. Remove the pulley before removing any bolts. I've heard there's one bolt that's not readily visible and can cause problems.
The pipe nipple in this image, from Cardone's site, is actually positioned at about the 10 o'clock position when installed on the engine.