quote Originally posted by olejoedad: That is the Battery Junction Terminal. The same style is used on several GM models from the 80's and 90's.

Thanks!
Got some more items installed. I made sure to seal the bolts that hold the DIS brick to the block.
You can still somewhat see the new shield that I made behind the packs (Thanks again ogre!)

This pic is of the bottom of the intake and the back of the alt.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: That is the Battery Junction Terminal. The same style is used on several GM models from the 80's and 90's.

Ok, So just wanted to make sure my ducks are in a row.
The battery junction has a wire directly from the battery to it, so it's hot at all times. Right?

[This message has been edited by Zeak (edited 12-20-2014).]

Yes. The alternator, battery and chassis power feeds all attach to the BJT.

Ok, Thanks!
It would seem in my haste to remove the engine and start cleaning, I forgot to document that part....

So Marry Christmas everyone.
Was double checking my rocker arm bolts before I bolt down the valve cover and fill the oil.
I noticed that even at 24 ft/lbs. The rocker arms and push rods on some valves are still very loose.
Wanted to ask you guys and gals if the hydro lifters would take up the slack after I build oil
presser or if I need to look into the bolt shim trick....

Also tryed the David freiburger (from motortrend) spark plug wire separator.

Well crud. Was not able to get shims yet, but as I removed a rocker stud, so I could get the proper size.
I noticed that this bolt has normal wear on one side from the bole shaped washer, But it also had scaring on the other from the rocker making direct contact to it. It dose not look like much, but I don't want it to get any worse and brake the bolt or something.
If I'm not wrong, The shims would only increase the amount of contact. Right?
Should I still do the shims and just file the rockers or is something else wrong here? All 8 bolts have different amounts of the same markings.
Back side, normal wear.

Front side scaring

Doodle to show where it's hitting When the valve is fully open.

Got the rockers sorted out with some shims and a little grinding with my dremel.
Primed the oil system by rigging an old garden sprayer to the oil pressure port.
Cranked her over until the oil gauge hit 40.
Got everything else installed and went for a start.
.......
Swapped my spark plug wires from "shooting fire from the throttle body'' to the ''run'' setting and she started right up.
No leaks.
No longer has the diesel engine "tick". (Will see how long that last after brake in)

I could not run her too long as she's still backed into the garage, but I'm happy for now.
I need to find a new throttle cable as mine is frayed near the throttle body and is about to brake.

[This message has been edited by Zeak (edited 12-30-2014).]

Too thick "shim" and you can break things. Washers as shim are too thick many times.
Most engine Exhaust valves grow more then intake side. Is more easy to cause problem by shimming exhaust.

Some wear is normal. The ball often rotates to keep wear even. Many aftermarket balls have oil groove too.
Minor Rocker hits the bolt is common.

see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/103494.html

quote Originally posted by Zeak: Oppps. Nevermind. I was using the wrong key word for my search. lifter tic

I linked to the same post before.
To move the rocker to where I wanted it. I used a thick shim under the bolt head at the pivot point and a thin shim at the base of the bolt to compensate. I turned the engine over by hand several times to check for any interference.
I did not want to have the rockers hitting anything, but did not want them to open the valves too much either.

So today I found that my head gasket was leaking. I've never used new head bolts like these.
The 3 steps for setting them seem to be beyond me....
I pulled the valve cover and cleaned the oil off of everything.
Re-set them and we will see how it goes.
Anything else I could check?
Oil and coolant was spurting out behind the header shield.