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Exterior DIY Paint Jobs by WhateverUSMC
Started on: 03-15-2014 07:43 PM
Replies: 8 (591 views)
Last post by: masospaghetti on 03-17-2014 03:32 PM
WhateverUSMC
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Report this Post03-15-2014 07:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WhateverUSMCClick Here to Email WhateverUSMCSend a Private Message to WhateverUSMCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So, I've seen a great deal posted about home-based paint jobs. I would say the vast majority I've read on here look amazing!

I'm at a bit of an impasse. Paint jobs in my area are around $2,500+. PlastDip in my area will set me back at least $1,200. For someone with a family to consider, this is just too much. So I started looking into other methods, and came across the roll-on Rustoleum paint jobs.

However, some things I don't understand; is primer needed for this before the first coat? Is there such a thing as automotive sandpaper, or am I just using the regular kind? Is the Rustoleum supposed to be thinned? How much? Is there a specific type of Rustoleum to be used? Is there a Fiero-rated brand of Bondo that I can use for filling in rough spots?

Sorry, I know this is a lot to ask, but you guys know your stuff, and the counter guy at Canadian Tire looked at me like I had just insulted everything good in the universe...

Thanks again!
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Boostdreamer
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Report this Post03-15-2014 08:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerClick Here to Email BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I did it. Wouldn't recommend it.

If you like your car and plan to keep it, don't put Rustoleum on it. If you ever want to do a real paint job, it will all have to come off. Until then, it will constantly lose its luster. It starts out shiny and goes dull in the sunlight. Mine was gloss black and now it is a very dull dark gray with no reflection.

Let's say you want to do this paint job to the best of your ability. You are already talking about using the correct sandpaper so I think you want a good result. You will spend hours upon hours sanding your panels to get ready. Why not just shoot it in regular automotive primer and stop there? That can be prepaired in rattle cans if I'm not mistaken at your local automotive paint supply store. All the panels will be the same color and the prep work will be largely done. You will then be able to wait until you can do a proper paint job and it will need minimal prep at that time.

Bottom line, don't do it.
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WhateverUSMC
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Report this Post03-15-2014 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WhateverUSMCClick Here to Email WhateverUSMCSend a Private Message to WhateverUSMCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the reply! So, the rattle can primer is the better option. How many cans of that are needed? How many layers? You still sand in between, right? Will I have to apply a sealant of some sort to prevent the primer from absorbing anything? Does the primer have to be somehow differently made due to the Fiero body panels? Different cans for different panels? Sandpaper and Bondo questions remain the same for now.

[This message has been edited by WhateverUSMC (edited 03-15-2014).]

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pgold
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Report this Post03-15-2014 09:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pgoldClick Here to Email pgoldSend a Private Message to pgoldEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have been a custom painter for over 20 years and i would not let anyone ever roll paint on their car. Don't do it! if you are on a budget you can paint it yourself. Use automotive paint . A single stage paint in a base color like white black red ect. It should be painted with a 2 part fill primer. First mask car and sand body with 320 grit sand paper. Find a automotive paint store in your area. They will help you use all the right sand paper and products you will need to do the job. You will need a spray gun. You can get a cheep one at harbor freight or home depot in the tool section. You will need a compressor and a hose. You could rent on if needed at home depot. The most important thing about doing this yourself is having a filter on the airline. This is to catch any water vapor from the compressor. again harbor freight has them to. I would recommend fish eye eliminator to help prevent any fish eye looking spots from appearing. All the how to and what to do can be explained by the reps at the paint store. You can do a practice piece on some sheet metal to test it out before spraying the whole car. Single stage can be sanded and buffed out if you get a run in the paint. You can probably do this yourself for about $400 to $500 bucks if you can borrow a compressor from someone. PPG make a great product but there are many other very good cheeper ones out there also.

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VF1Skullangel
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Report this Post03-16-2014 06:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for VF1SkullangelClick Here to visit VF1Skullangel's HomePageClick Here to Email VF1SkullangelSend a Private Message to VF1SkullangelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you don't like the Rustoluem paint job check out the Duplicolor paintshop system. I heard the clear coat sucks but everything else is decent.
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post03-16-2014 08:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Duplicolor is your best choice. You can buy it at CTC in Peterborough.

The system is lacquer and you don't need special breathing apparatus, just a mask, and you are well advised to clean the surface with lacquer thinner to get old polish off. I used the matte clear on the Batmobile, and it works out pretty well. Much better than trying to use urethane products.

Mistakes can be covered and repaired easily. Hope this helps

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fierosound
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Report this Post03-16-2014 09:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I could imagine the Cdn Tire guy rolling his eyes when you asked about roll-on Rustoleum for painting your car.

Do the prep yourself properly and let someone experienced do the spray.
Prep is the biggest allocation of time (and therefore cost) in doing a good paint job.

Some on PFF prep'd their cars, then get Maaco or someone to shoot the paint - results vary with prep and the "shooter".

Find the "paint guy" first so you can get clear on how to proceed on preparation. You can use 1-step enamel.
The Auto Paint Supply where you get your paint could probably recommend "a guy" who works on the side.

2 of our guys took this route in Calgary (they're gone now) . Results were pretty good.
They prep'd their cars at home and got the paint shot at a U-Wrench Garage with paint booth.
Guy and booth was $300 (they brought the paint) http://www.u-wrench.ca/default.htm

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...031110-1-032184.html
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...1110-1-026548-3.html

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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-16-2014).]

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Vanet
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Report this Post03-17-2014 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for VanetSend a Private Message to VanetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have wrapped a few cars, and am very happy with the results. You can get the wrap on ebay, just buy a name brand like 3m. It is very easy to put on, looks good, and can be easily taken off later to paint if you decide to. I havnt wrapped a fiero yet, but I did an off road buggy, and the cost for everything was less than $300. Good luck
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masospaghetti
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Report this Post03-17-2014 03:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for masospaghettiClick Here to Email masospaghettiSend a Private Message to masospaghettiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I did the rustoleum roller job and I have mixed feelings about it. It's been 3 years and its still shiny. IMO, it really depends on what you want out of the car. It won't be a professional quality job. Then again, most Fieros won't have much value anyway, and it can make a terrible looking car look pretty good for about $25 in paint. I also didn't have indoor space for spraying which was a major driver in my decision to use the roller.

It IS labor intensive though. You need to thin the paint about 50% to get a consistency of milk, anything thicker and it won't self level and you'll get orange peel. If you keep the same color you could probably get by with 5 coats or so. I didn't prime my car but I did sand it.

So no, the roller won't be nearly as good as a spray job, but you're comparing $75 for the roller (including supplies) to over $500 in just paint, and you still need a compressor and spray gun.

[This message has been edited by masospaghetti (edited 03-17-2014).]

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