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New Fiero, several issues by mr_corean
Started on: 11-23-2013 03:35 AM
Replies: 7 (214 views)
Last post by: Neils88 on 11-25-2013 08:50 PM
mr_corean
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Report this Post11-23-2013 03:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got a new Fiero a while agp and have a few issues with it. It has been quite a few years since I last has one, and the ones I owned previously had no electrical issues and didn't have the 2.8l so I am lacking on these subjects.

1. I am having engine issues, but have no check engine light. I'm not sure what all lights are in those two rows, but the blinkers, brights, and brake light indicators all work fine. When I start up the car though nothing in the dash lights up.

2. The doors seem to be low on power. The car has power windows, locks, and mirrors. Everything in it is incredibly slow though. I have to push the windows down and pull them back up. I would say that the window motors need to be replaced, but the mirrors are very slow adjusting as well and the power locks click, but don't have enough juice to actually engage or disengage the door locks. I can operate the locks by hand, but hitting the button will only cause them to click as it tries to work.

3. Not sure if this is related to the doors or not, but the rear deck release will not open on the first try. I have to click it a few times to get it to open. Sometimes quite a few times, usually only twice though. Never on the first time.

Now for some 2.8/5spd questions. New fluids in the motor, new plug wires, 150k miles. Other than that, as I bought it.

4. Getting the car into 1st gear can be a serious pain in the ass at times. Every other gear works just fine, but first can be a pain to engage. I usually fix it by shifting into 2nd and then trying 1st again. Sometimes have to do this several times to get it to go into 1st. Usually clicks in like nothing was the matter when it finally goes in. I do know how to drive a manual and this is from a standing start, I'm not trying to down shift into 1st when this is happening.

5. The engine at times is seriously under-powered at times. It almost always is at low RPMs when it is trying to build up into the powerband. I understand the 2.8 is not a powerful engine at all, but the car will not even build RPMs at times. The biggest thing that happens when this is going on is either a backfire or knock. I'm not sure which, but I believe it is a backfire. It will usually do it a few times, and everytime it pops the car bogs. It is always at low RPMs usually in 1st or 2nd gear, and more often when the car is cold. I know I have an EGR tube leak and a couple very small vacuum leaks. I recently put in a low temp thermostat and fan switch from Rodney after having issues getting the fan to turn on. No issues with the fan now, but the backfiring issue still exists. Wouldn't have thought those would have anything to do with the back firing anyways.

Any help from the knowledgeable folks on here would be greatly appreciated.
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Report this Post11-23-2013 07:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 82-T/A [At Work]Send a Private Message to 82-T/A [At Work]Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mr_corean:

I got a new Fiero a while agp and have a few issues with it. It has been quite a few years since I last has one, and the ones I owned previously had no electrical issues and didn't have the 2.8l so I am lacking on these subjects.

Any help from the knowledgeable folks on here would be greatly appreciated.



1. The check engine light SHOULD come on. I would still try to check the codes, oh wait... you can't if the light is burnt out! Haha... sorry. Ok, first thing I would do is check the bulb. You can get to it really easily by removing the rear shell of the dash pod. Check each light and replace them. I think it's only held on by like 5 torx screws. It's always a good idea to clean the bulbs. Because they get hot, the dust in there tends to melt to the bulb creating a cloudy film. This goes for all bulbs in the car (tail-lights, parking lights, etc). Take a cloth and clean them as you remove them. Anyway, I suspect that bulb has burnt out (or maybe removed). If you aren't sure how to check the codes, you can look here: http://www.pontiacperforman...icles/OSG/codes.html

2 & 3. For both of these... this is a perfect example of what happens as our cars (or any cars) start to get old. All of these parts, when new, are taught and well lubricated in all of their joints. What ends up happening is that as things like the door lock rod get used, they start to wear into the various guides and pivots that they are mounted through. This increases the friction and reduces smooth action of these options. What's worse is that a lot of the old white lithium grease that's used will often cake up causing it to only get worse. So really, all of the parts are fine, but in order to get back the original speed (and functionality) you really need to basically take the doors completely apart, lubricate all the touch-points, and put it all back together. The trunk release mechanism is likely suffering the same fate... though some of that might also be due to a less than ideal grounding point.

4. This could be because the "clip" that holds the shift cable is broken. This could be either at the shifter, or at the transmission. Check all of these clips and make sure they aren't missing or broken. I had a 4-Speed Fiero, and I couldn't get it into 1st or reverse because of this. I ended up having to put it in second, and then maybe shift to first, or just try to start in second... heh.

5. There's a number of things that could be wrong, but with this kind of performance, you would most certainly have an engine code. For what it's worth, do you hear a "pissing" or "hissing" sound? That could mean you have a clogged catalytic converter. That would also prevent you from being able to build RPMs... (it would make it VERY difficult).
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Jecklen16
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Report this Post11-23-2013 10:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Jecklen16Click Here to Email Jecklen16Send a Private Message to Jecklen16Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I also have every issue you just listed. The only one that really bothers me is not being able to get into first easily at all. I have a 4 speed 85 GT, reverse grinds and I have to slam it into first to get it in. Is it still these cable clips you were talking about? Where are they located and what should I look for?
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post11-23-2013 01:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The problem with going into 1st/reverse is a non-fully releasing clutch.

Check the level on the clutch master cylinder. If low or very low top it off and then wait a week to see if the bubbles in the system work their way out. If not then you need to bleed the clutch lines.

A check to see if there is air in the system, after the clutch MC level is checked is to pump the clutch pedal and see if the problem goes away. If the problem does go away then there is air in the system.

My past experience is that if you had just run low on clutch fluid and you refill it that the bubbles were still up front by the MC and would work themselves out.

When bleeding the system, getting all the air out can be a real pita.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-23-2013).]

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mr_corean
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Report this Post11-23-2013 06:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm missing a couple bulbs is the issue with #1. Took one from one spot and put it into the check engine hole. I got a code 23 and 33. Looking at the link that was posted the 23 is pretty straightforward, replace the MAT sensor. Could the 33 be caused by the slight vacuum leaks I have or the egr tube leak? Or should I just go ahead and replace the MAP sensor if the vacuum connections on it turn up fine. Not sure what I should be doing for checking the electrical connections at the ECM. Hopefully curing these issues will help solve #5 on my list.

Sounds like #2 is going to have to wait until I have time to rebuild all the door stuff.

For #3, is the ground for the release the small wire going to the bottom of the deck led near the front driver's side? If so can I sand it down to get a better connection and then screw it down tight or do I need to be working on a different ground?

I guess I'll be bleeding the clutch for #4.

I'm adding a #6 too. My blinkers are incredibly slow. Why is that? When I turn on the hazards they blink at a normal rate. But when I'm using the blinkers its a solid second the blinker is on before turning off for a full second. I'm talking a full one one thousand count.
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mr_corean
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Report this Post11-25-2013 08:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I checked the MAP and it wasn't even connected to its vacuum line. Hooked that up but unfortunately did not cure issue #5. I have been searching around with my symptoms, not just on Fieros, but on multiple types of cars, and the symptoms seem to match the engine running very rich or possibly be of on it's timing slightly. Any thoughts on this?
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Patrick
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Report this Post11-25-2013 08:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mr_corean:

....or possibly be off on it's timing slightly. Any thoughts on this?


My thoughts are... (and don't take this personally), but something like ignition timing should be checked before you start asking for solutions.

We have no way of detemining what your ignition timing is. Only you can do that. Beg, borrow or buy a timing light (they're not necessarily expensive) and check/set the timing. This is something that needs to be done and rates right up there with checking and/or replacing the spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, fuel pressure, etc.

If you've never set the timing on a Fiero before, use the search function to read about jumping the A/B terminals.

In regards to slow electrical components and possibly related problems, I'd check not only positive power connections (and not just on the battery), but I'd also start checking all the grounds (and make sure the major ones aren't missing).

EVERYONE with a V6 please Read

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-25-2013).]

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Neils88
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Report this Post11-25-2013 08:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It sounds like you may have a power issue...I'd check the battery and charging system. Make sure you have clean terminals on the battery and see if you are getting ~13.8-14.2V going to the battery when the engine is running. You can usually take you battery in to a number of places to have it tested for free. Simple things that should be ruled out. Could also be a ground problem.
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