Weeping behind the pulley :/

I've read that I should only install a new (not reman) water pump in the fiero. While new us obviously better in any car, I've also read the pump must have a cast iron impeller. I'm not sure if different manufacturers use different materials for their impellers anyhow, so I thought if ask the experts! (The fiero factory says the cast iron impeller is the only type that generated the force needed to push the coolant thru the long tubes of the fiero properly)

Which pump should I buy? The fiero store's $50 pump doesn't list any specifics about the item. Not too helpful... But there are $35 new pumps from autozone and the like in my area.

Anything specific? Does this job require a good vocabulary in the profanity department?

Thank you all!

quote Originally posted by 88_GT4ME: Anything specific? Does this job require a good vocabulary in the profanity department? Thank you all!

Yes, yes it does, give the kids nearby earplugs.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

There are a lot of good re-manufactured pumps. If you buy one locally, take a look at it before you walk out of the store. Plastic impellers are rare, but they still may be out there.

quote Originally posted by 88_GT4ME: Which pump should I buy? The fiero store's $50 pump doesn't list any specifics about the item. Not too helpful... But there are $35 new pumps from autozone and the like in my area.

You'd save time and shipping by just picking one up locally. Its not like the water pump is a rare or hard-to-get item. The same part number was used on many 80s-era GM cars with the 2.8 (you are talking about the 2.8, right?).

Replacement is tedious but not too difficult. The 88 uses Torx fasteners and there are three different sizes. Use caution that you don't strip or damage the bolt heads (some people replace the Torx bolts with regular hex bolts to make the job easier next time). Hardest one for me was the one that's hidden behind the water pump pulley - if you can get the pulley off ahead of time its no problem. Lots of people remove the battery to make access easier but I didn't and had no issues. All the tiny bolts along the bottom of the water pump are best reached from below the car. Upon re-assembly, be sure to use sealant on the bolt threads that require them.

I appreciate all the replys! Good points, as they are indeed plentiful at any auto parts place around me.

At least that gives me the green light on a non-specific pump that will hopefully last a while! I guess if I flush the system periodically, it should last quite a whole and beat electrolysis...

I also plan on swapping for hex bolts as suggested!

Oh, yes, it's the V6

Since now is a great time to do a full flush, is there a good way to get ALL of the old coolant out? Aing that draning the radiator and dropping the pump will clear most of it, but should I be blowing the long tubes out as well?

Thank again guys!

It is probably worth your time to read this thread and the Jazzman link it contains: //www.fiero.nl/forum/A...120111-2-110635.html

I also STRONGLY suggest you purchase the Dodgerunner idler....you will likely never need to replace your WP again....mebbe not your alternator either....and you will forever be rid of the belt squeel!

Although most people use silicone instead of the paper gasket....I ended up doing it twice because my silicone blew out. I have had zero problems with the paper gasket and Permatex high tack.

Good luck and let us know how it goes,

Larry

Thank you, great links! I hope to have the time to tackle the job in about a week..

I'll look into that pulley now!

I appreciate the help!

A New one made in China is NOT as good as a Rebuilt made in the USA. (Original casting, steel impeller)