My car can't keep an idle and replaced MAP SENSOR, MAT SENSOR, O2 Sensor, TPS, IAC, Coolant temp sensor, battery and cleaned connection to ecm replaced ecm also, and it still can not keep an idle and then eventually stalls and I have a hard time starting it sometimes and there is no vacuum leak! I need serious help please Im dying to fix this thing!
Thank you and no, but I replaced fuel pump and injector first, then IAC, then Coolant Sensor, then TPS, Then MAP, then MAT, then ECM, Then O2, and just tried ground but I can check pressure, my dad thinks there might crap in ground wire but I am open up to suggestions to prevent it from happening again in the future, I will check Pressure tomorrow.
Did this begin all of a sudden? Or has the battery been disconnected or something that would set this off?
I just completed reviving a 86 2m4 and had the same issue. Turns out, the ECM doesn't set the IAC and keep it where it needs to be until the car is driven over 45 mph for 1 or 2 minutes (i forget exactly what it was, but something like that.) That cleared it up - it couldn't idle steadily until I drove it for a little while.
No, it been going on for a while and Ive replaced all that I could and checking grounds today fuel pressure is ok and battery has been replaced two or four days ago, but I have a video posted on YouTube look up Alex Winter and you'll see how the car is acting and what I replaced but I just can't figure out why its acting like this have not driven it since it started, not gonna drive it until I fix the problem but the Battery was replaced two or four days ago and it was tightened pretty good also one of the wires were very hot as in getting burned not electrocuted. That's why Im checking the grounding today.
Thank you! You found and posted it! I get code 34 and 44 but I replaced it already thats why Im confused and Im putting up video #2 of the grounds right now.
Are you sure there are no vacuum leaks? Maybe a manifold leak/crack both exhaust or intake? I'm having the same problem and can't figure it out too though I'm pulling code 44 which means lean mixture.
EDIT: I've also had a code 34 but that's when I was unplugging the MAP when engine was running. After resetting only the 44 code prevails. You can barely hear it but the engine is constantly hunting. It floods when given throttle and the exhaust smells plenty plenty rich.
EDIT2:
As for your second video:
That is 100% okay. That gunk prevents water from corroding the connectors. It's called dielectric grease.
[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 09-26-2013).]
Code 44 does not mean the O2 sensor is bad. It means that the O2 sensor is reading a lean condition. If your car is smelling rich, that just says that the sensor did it's job and the ECM is compensating. The source of the problem is most likely a leak in the exhaust system between the manifold and the sensor. In some cases the leak is actually sucking in fresh air rather than blowing out exhaust.
I actually found a crack in the manifold and jb welded it four days ago but I guess it didn't hold sooooo Ill be replacing the manifold next exhaust system is good but jb weld did not hold up. Ill let you guys know what happens next after I replace manifold.
Yeah replacing the manifold is gonna be a good idea anyway but could you run the engine again and while running try to cover up that crack just to be sure that this is exactly the problem? If when covering it up the engine starts idling fine then you know replacing the manifold is gonna fix it. That would help me a lot also since I'm losing my mind but didn't actually take the exahust off (maybe there's some cracks underneath that I can't see).
But yeah got a kit n its way already and the jb weld did not hold when it did it was fine but I think the manifold is the problem Im also gonna replace my whole exhaust system too.
Installing new manifold today get back to you guys about it in an hour or so had to get a hold of a floor jack so we can lift in and get underneath it.
Well.... my manifold was destroyed, put the video up on YouTube so you guys can see what happend, it aged and cracked right off on the left arm putting new one in now.
Only other thing I can think of is checking the intake manifold. There is clearly too much air in the engine (code 44).
EDIT: What about a clogged cat?
EDIT2: Did you drive the car above 45mph and let it warm up when you replaced the exhaust manifold and the EGR? Also did you clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for a minute or so?
EDIT3: It still might be electrical I guess? Maybe the positive wire is corroded? You said that some wires get hot - which ones? What we didn't get straight is that the box you were checking with grease inside was not a ground box. It was a power distribution box for lights, computer, gearbox etc called C500 I believe in the service manual.
[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 09-30-2013).]
Idk but I am gonna replace vacuum lines, I think I can hear a leak from there Ill let you know next because I can cruise at 45 fine and no jerking I just can't stop for a long time otherwise it'll stall.
Bad vacuum lines won't stall a car. You do need to run it a bit for the computer to re-think the sensor information. Is the wiring to the 02 sensor good?
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 09-30-2013).]
Have you checked the ignition coils, and the crankshaft position sensor? You could have an iffy coil, or maybe a cracked crank sensor. It's worth checking out. BTW, the crank sensor is on the underside of the ignition brick. You have to pull the ignition brick to get at it.
Still fighting had engine tech come over yesterday with OBD1 and all sensors work, no vacuum leaks and it reads lean, he thinks its a fuel problem like you said at first not giving enough then gives too much when it stalls
Best thing you can do is get a repair manual and follow the flow charts for both codes. You’ve spent a lot of money and a lot of time chasing a problem when you don’t really know what it is. Keep in mind that even though you replaced the O2 sensor if the crack in the manifold was bad enough it could have damaged the new sensor. I’d still go through the flow charts first and see where they take you.
Yeah that would be a good idea but there is very little information about code 44 on the 6E2-A-51 page of the service manual. Most of it (and more) was done by both me and this thread's author with no real results.
In my opinions there are only a few things that stand out in the "poor idle" section that weren't mentionted:
"Battery cables and ground straps should be clean and secure. Erratic voltage will cause IAC to change its position resulting in poor idle quality." "Check PCV valve for proper operation by placing finger over inlet hole in valve end several times. Valve should snap back. If not, replace valve."
You checked grounds but how about the positive cables? There is also some AC stuff. Do you have AC in your car? I do and my shop was fiddling with it just before the problems started. However I disconnected the compressor and nothing changed so I guess it would be out of the equation.
Can't say it enough - don't just check the grounds, check the positive cables too especially from the battery to the little junction on the side. Corrosion can easily get there.
Any leads? I know our problem sources may be totally different but I'm suspecting it's the same thing.
My PCV works, it rattles nicely so the ball inside isn't stuck and the hose is clean. All connections seem good, the alternator works. I'm thinking could it be a clogged cat? Have you checked yours? One thing more, does your car do this only when cold/hot or both?
Thanks man. That really could be it. I've never checked mine and I don't know how old it is (could be original still). Please post back after you replace it if it did the trick. Thanks again.
I've bought a fuel pressure gauge with hoses etc. Gonna check the fuel pressure.
[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 10-09-2013).]
please Im dying to fix this thing!
