Im one of those that highly recommend you DONT use adapters. Spacers that slip on over stock or longer lugs are fine. With the adapters, the problem is that they can vibrate enough from just driving that they gaul out the threads. Locktite will keep them from backing out, but not from wrecking the threads to the point they strip out and the the stud comes sliding out, usually while your hard cornering. Cheaper adapters are alloy where the stud has a flange on the backside and theyre just pushed thru from the back. These tend to loosen to where the stud just spins if you try and remove the wheel. Ive had to take a torch to wheels to get them off. Of course the wheel is junk after that. Ive also seen the cast alloy ones just simply break, throwing the wheel off the car. There are good adapters out there, but they cost as much as getting the right wheel in the first place. Ill never drive a car that I know has adapters.
Originally posted by PaulJK: Why not just use blue loctite to make sure they stay tight?
If you're using aluminum adapters, the issue is that the metal experiences creep. That's where the load from the nuts slowly causes the aluminum to squeeze out from under the nuts. That then causes the adapter to loosen, and eventually takes the nuts as well. It also happens with aluminum wheels too and is why you should re-torque wheels after the first 60 miles or so after replacing them. Using Loctite on the nuts will only keep the nuts from backing off but won't prevent creep, nor lessen the need to re-torque the nuts after the first 60 miles of driving. After you've done it once, you should be OK until you remove the adapters again.
If you have steel adapters, then there's much less need for concern because steel creeps far less.
I'm on the other side of the fence from Roger - but - you need to use a high quality built adapter and never - ever use locktite on the studs - especially the studs that bolt the wheel to the spacer - you will end up spinning the stud inside the aluminum and then - like Roger always warns, you will have to cut the wheel to get it off! Always, randomly, check the torque - both spacer to hub and wheel to spacer and do not over torque.
I appreciate everyone's replies. i think i'll forget about the loctite - i was afraid that would invalidate the torque setting anyway.
I really needed to move my rear wheels outward and first tried 1 inch adapters. I saw that the stock wheel studs stuck out about 1/8 inch through the adapter nuts and past the adapter, and could see that the wheel would then set against the ends of the protruding studs instead of the adapter. I then upgraded to 1.5 inch adapters (aluminum hub-centric was the only thing available) and they fit fine. This resulted in adding 3 inches width to the track in the rear.
On the ride home, I was very surprised that the ride was noticeably smoother, handling around curves was Much improved, and the car was easier to steer. Right now it's after midnight but, as suggested above, I went out into the parking lot and re-torqued the adapters (80-85 ft. lbs). There was probably about 100 miles since they were installed. Seemed ok, but i will re-torque them every 5,000 miles when the tires are rotated and periodically re-torque the wheels.
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-21-2013).]
My experience with various types of Loctite: Loctite is a plastic filler. If using Red or any other color and the need to remove a nut again arises, heat is applied to the nut to cause the softening of the plastic then wrenched off… Could the heat from running and braking cause the Loctite to soften and come loose, you bet. Of course my experience in manufacturing is ten years old.
The "JK" must stand for Just Kidding as surely you would never put adapters or spacers on your car as they were obviously never a factory item. This seems a little more important then a "a friggin tin can". I'm laughing and shaking my head at the same time. This is funny as Hell!