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Fierofred's chevy V8 fiero build book. by FFIEROFRED
Started on: 03-30-2013 06:43 PM
Replies: 56 (1877 views)
Last post by: FFIEROFRED on 08-21-2013 03:43 PM
FFIEROFRED
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Report this Post03-30-2013 06:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is my build book. When I bought the fiero it was a 2.5 / auto, broke down car. It was on it's 3rd 2.5, with only 72,000 miles on it. Nice red paint job. But if you looked at it close it looked like they had sanded it with a brick! After I got it to run, it smoked like a house on fire, no power, and got 11 mpg ! I drove it just long enough to make sure every thing worked. I was working as a wrecker driver at the time so I got first dibs on the cars that came in. over the years i put a 3.0 / T-125 buick V6 / with a holley 4 bbl carb and than a 3.8 SFI / 440T4 ( not the 3800 ) in it. Just when I came into some money, the 3.8 lost the oil pump. So I did the chevy V8 swap That I have in this book. I have had a 305 crossfire in it after the 355. ( cooked the 355 and Katrina finished it ). I ran the 305 for 2 years as my DD. drove it to work every day for 2 years, raced it at the drag strip, auto crossed it. The 305 gave up at the track one night so I pulled it and put the new sbc/ holley FI / 4T60-E in it that i am getting ready to put back in the car now ( for the 4th time ). But that is for a latter book.
I printed all the page's, scanned them in, posted them to photo bucket so I can post them here.

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[This message has been edited by FFIEROFRED (edited 03-30-2013).]

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Report this Post03-30-2013 07:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well thats it for the first book. Now I have to do the cross fire book.
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Report this Post03-30-2013 09:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ArchieClick Here to visit Archie's HomePageClick Here to Email ArchieSend a Private Message to ArchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice job Fred.

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Report this Post03-31-2013 08:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It gets better.
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Report this Post03-31-2013 03:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
And now the crossfire 305.

this story starts with a 1983 Crossfire 305 Z/28. I bought the car and drove it as a DD for a bout 5 years. When our son was little He would tell me "Do it again daddy" when It barked 2nd gear. I put it up for him when he was 6.

During KATRINA we lost the beater that was going to be his 1st car.

We brought the Z/28 back to life. No fwd jpos for my kids first car. This is adam on his way to work for the first time in the Z.

We took it out and had fun with it.
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Report this Post03-31-2013 03:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
this is what he did to it.

Before Katrina the 355 had packed it in. Both the fiero and the Z had to just sit for a year or more as we got the town back on its feet. When adam got done with HS I sent him to NADC to learn how to fix cars! With him out of the house I pulled the 305, junked the car body. I was thinking that I could get it to fit under a 85 deck lid. So I pulled the fiero's 355 and put the 305 in with a 4T60 with 2.84 gears. Than i put a V8 archie big rad in it. This was a big help. After I got the TV cable to work right it would shift fine.
The crossfire is a very low cross ram. It is like a tunnel ram intake with the runners laid down.

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Report this Post03-31-2013 03:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It was low enough, but the big factory air cleaner was not going to work. IN this picture I laid a stick from side to side just ware the bracing is on the hood.

I used the bottom of the factory aircleaner and built a air box that would clear the bracing. I put a intake pipe that pointed under the side of the deck lid over at the TPI air filter.


than i used red flex hose to connect them. You have to remember this was a tempary set up. I always was going back to the good engine.

For when I went to the track I made a "cold air in take" for it. 4 inch PVC mounted on a 84 vent panel. I put "Ram Air 2" on it to keep it "Pontiac" .

the ecm fit in the stock fiero place and I got the wires to fit under the glove box.

[This message has been edited by FFIEROFRED (edited 03-31-2013).]

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Report this Post03-31-2013 04:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I ran the **** out of it at the track and drove it to work EVERY day for 2 years. I made just a few runs with it.

My intention was to have it be consistant, not fast. ( fast and 305 ? DUH! ) I can hear the track from our house.
I would keep track of the runs by putting the run info in a excell file.
I went and got 3 to print out here.

I list the TT runs, than the race ( race's) as the case may be.
this is the last run, the race.

this is the 4th TT run.

[This message has been edited by FFIEROFRED (edited 03-31-2013).]

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Report this Post03-31-2013 04:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The car was very consistant. One time I ran it to 5500 in 2nd and ran the race with just 1st and 2nd.
At this track a reac time of .500 is perfect.
Here I made it to the 3rd round

and here I made it to the 4th round.

This was the 2nd week that I put that guy with the mustang on the trailer.
I don't think that the new 357 hot rod drive line will be as good for bracket racing. But it sure is a bunch faster.
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Report this Post04-01-2013 09:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for sharing your book Fierofred
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Report this Post04-01-2013 07:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
years ago when I was having elec problems I put a cut off switch on the battey ground cable. I have coil overs so I have room in the shock tower. All the grounds go to the switch on one side. the other side goes to the bat that is in the front.

This is it from under, in the shock tower. The wire is so that i don't loose the handle.

I don't have to open the deck lid to use it.
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Report this Post04-02-2013 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was able to get after it this afternoon. I thought I would show what I intend to do about a deck lid. Years ago I made some home made "INDY" vents for my car. I didn't want to have 2 different vents on my car when I ran the 84 deck lid.

I will have some thing, A "INDY" type scoop will do. ( I have one)

With the new headers I expected to have to move a few things. The water return pipe from the T-stat housing is going to need a miner change. It comes out of the T-stat housing, goes between the head and the shock tower, back along the rear fire wall just like before. The end on the drivers side of the car needs to move up to get away from the header. This means I will have to make a new pipe from that elbow that goes over the crossover exhaust pipe and than down to the stock pipe under the car.


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Report this Post04-04-2013 10:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
On my down time to day at work I did the 1st 4 page's of the build book for the engine that I have in it now.
The switch's for the trans controler and the electric dump valve. The red switch turns on the paddle shifting. the toggle switch next to it is the up / down. the rotery switch is the for the "TCI" trans controller modes. the rocker switch is for the dump.
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Report this Post04-04-2013 11:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero_Fan_88Click Here to Email Fiero_Fan_88Send a Private Message to Fiero_Fan_88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Might want to make a small edit.
"The "SUPPERLEGGERA" name was used on a few FERRARI sedans in the 50's. I had it made at a local sign shop. It means " super legs" or in English "Long Legs" (for the highway"

Superleggera (translation: "super light") is an automobile coachwork construction technology developed by Felice Bianchi Anderloni of Italian coachbuilder Carrozzeria Touring.

"To commemorate their first major success at the prestigious 1948 Mille Miglia, Ferrari upgraded their successful 166 Sport and made a series of cars called the 166 MM. These contributed more than any other previous type, scoring many of Ferrari's first international victories and established the company as a serious manufacturer of sports cars.

For their new series, Ferrari outsourced production of the bodies to Touring of Milan who made 25 roadsters using their patented Superleggera technique. It fixed aluminum-alloy panels directly to a tubular space frame which was both light and rigid."
http://www.supercars.net/cars/485.html

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

Superleggera was used on the 166, 195, 212, and 340. All being Coupes.

[This message has been edited by Fiero_Fan_88 (edited 04-04-2013).]

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Report this Post04-05-2013 07:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have some body that lived over their. He is going to email some body he knows ( family) to see what that word brings to mind. I got my info from a book on the history of the cars. I still have it, someplace.

I rejetted the carb to night. Went up 2 steps on jet size on the secondarys. The track pack has jets in steps, so it is not just 2 jet size Numbers. Now I can put the carb on this week end. I just might light it off this week end.
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Report this Post04-06-2013 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
With any luck I will run on sunday!
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Report this Post04-07-2013 05:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well I got it started. sounds like a rod knock. And this with a new crank kit. But the new exhaust was better than the old one. Not as loud. No leaks. I was able to take almost 5 feet of battery cable out of the back of the car. I didn't use any of the fuel injection that is not used. this makes the wiring much better. I guess I will have to get a NEW crank, New rods, and new pistons. I think I can do forged pistons. IF I am going with new stuff I will get good stuff.

383 stuff comes to mind.
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Report this Post04-07-2013 07:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is the first start. I heard the knock and let it die. I reved it a little to clean the oil of the bores, but no smoke after that and no leaks.
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Report this Post04-07-2013 07:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Some pictures of how I fitted the stuff in and ran the wires. I will clean up the wires and wrap them better when I have the engine out next time. I will make better hangers for the water return pipe. May have a pipe made to replace it with less clamps/rubber sections. The TPS clears the hood, Every thing fits fine. I think this is what I am going to stay with. Untill I get my hood scoop done I have to cover it to keep the leaves out.










[This message has been edited by FFIEROFRED (edited 04-07-2013).]

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Report this Post04-08-2013 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Checked the valve lash, had one that was a little loose. Fixed that. Put in a little more advance, started and run much better, but still a bad knock. I am at a loss to explane having a rod knock on a new bottom end. I primed it with the sbc priming tool, pushed all the air out untill all the push rod were getting oil to the rockers. the engine has oil presser instantly. ???????????????????
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Report this Post04-09-2013 09:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the guy at the machine shop said I could have beat the big end of a rod out of round at the track.
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Report this Post04-12-2013 11:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I talked to the machine shop. They said they can resize my rods with the pistons on the rods. so that looks like a cheaper fix so I can drive it this summer.
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Report this Post04-13-2013 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rcp buildersSend a Private Message to rcp buildersEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know you have a knock to figure out but in the meantime you may want to have your boy get in
and put your gas pedal to the floor and take a look at your butterfly in the carb.
I just put a new holley on mine and was get very poor power. It turns out my return spring was to stiff and though
my pedal would go to the floor my carb wasn't opening all the way. A lighter return spring solved this problem. Ray
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Report this Post04-13-2013 08:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Been their, done that. I am going to work on the wiring for the new shift light, and than put the inside of the car back together. I am going to work on the getting the addition to the "INDY SCOOP" done so it will cover the carb. The kid's car is going to be using the slab/houst for a few weeks. I do not intend to make any changes to the setup/wiring so I can button it up. I need to do some work on the wiring in the engine compartment, but I will take pictures and do it with the drive line out.
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Report this Post04-14-2013 08:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am going to build a 2nd woodin houst in the back yard so I can pull the drive line while adams car is using the 1st one. I will make this one 10 feet wide instead of 7 feet so that it will be away from the car. Not in the way.
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