It's going to be tough for anyone to guess what you did wrong if we don't know what it's supposed to look like when it's done right...
The modules are separate from the coils, right? One for each bank?
In asking about 12V vs. 5V, I wasn't referring to your MS. The whole point of an igniter/module is that it's a high current driver to charge the coil... having it separate gets the high current (and resulting heat load) out of the ECM. That means that the modules need a power source in addition to the signal from the ECM. I just wanted to verify that they aren't weird and aren't designed for 5V power instead of 12V power.
Is your signal polarity correct? Are you running 90% duty cycle when you think you're running 10%?
Because the modules are getting hot, that means they're moving more current than they're supposed to... which could be an error of supply voltage, or an error of dwell/duty cycle... You're using the modules with the coils they were originally designed to drive, right?
ok what i do know is the output side of the module are stock what i mean it is how it was wired from Audi the coils are wired as they come from Audi and on the input side i know the brown wire that is a ground as i made sure i looked at that in the schematics and the only thing left are the input signal wires 4 per module so i know i have that right now what i don't know is how long to turn on each channel and if there should be a resistor to each channel and the signal should be 5V out to the modules from what i am looking at on the megasquirt
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-30-2014).]
Any way of finding out what the original Audi dwell is?
How does the polarity of your signal compare to the polarity of the original?
If the original signal is normaly grounded, then a pulse to +5V for the dwell period, while the new signal is +5V all the time with a drop to ground for the dwell period... not only will timing be off, but the modules will heat up.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-01-2014).]
i think i am going to redo the megasquirt like it is hooked to the bip373 mosfet so i know that the signal is power on then power off and i will set the dwell to 3 ms for starters i picked up some 680 ohm resistors so i can do it tomorrow
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-01-2014).]
Will after looking closer at the schematic for the way i did my ignition outputs on the megasquirt it is looking like there is 5V most of the time so i need to change that but if some one who knows electronics could chime in and tell me witch way will give me a on off signal
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-01-2014).]
For the left ends of R26, R27 & R29 above (and the JS11 signal)... are those outputs normally +5V or normally grounded?
Get your DVM out and measure what the voltage on the wires actually is... Most cheap DVM's nowadays can even measure frequency and duty cycle, which would be immensely helpful to you for troubleshooting this.
yes i have the V3 board and i changed it to the way they have it coming off J11,r26,r27 & r29 with resistors and now the Bosch module does not get hot like it was but i cant seem to run 2 of the new modules for what reason i dont know but it wont start with 2 of the new modules not sure if i need less dwell under the dwell while cranking but it seems all 8 are runing when i get it started . i need to work on getting it to idle then i must check the timing not sure how i am going to do that with cop as there aren't any plug wires . at least i am gaining ground on it and it has a nice exhaust note i think
I still don't understand why with the new ones it wont start but as long as the old Bosch one works and it starts with it and does not get hot i don't care and since i changed the megasquirt to the new ignition output configuration they stay cool and it revs
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-02-2014).]
i bought a used Bosch module the other night on ebay but haven't got it yet but i will use it along with the other one i have that is good . i want to get it to idle but i think that since i only have one good working module there is no sense to try setting it up yet so i will wait and i have some more pipes so i can get the mufflers on it then i will take a new video of it running
i took a video today but the sound was so bad when i just watched it i wont post it i need to put the camera further away . the car needs to be tuned that will take driving it with VE analyzer live turned on so it automatically tunes it
VE analyzer does work quite well , just make sure you have all the parameters set correctly in ego controls. There is a built in VE table generator that can get you close if you know enough about your engine. Just take it easy and it will do its thing for you.
I found the AFR table generator and filed it out got the info but cant seem to save it as the correct type of file i used notepad like they said but it doesn't do that type of file what am i doing wrong
no driving the car this weekend exhuast pipes dint show looks like they will be hear monday and it looks like i need to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket as i keep having oil in the spar plug wells . i did try it a little bit and it felt like it is going to be fun to drive with good power! but i know i will want more power
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-11-2014).]
ok i found some info i had wrong and it was injector size i thought i had 21lbs per hour injectors but the are 19.7 this is based on the injector part number and looking it up on line at Stan wise fuel injector flow then i had to calculate for the higher fuel pressure going from 43 to 60 psi so i will correct that . I loaded all my fuel maps and ignition maps in manually one number at a time so it should be running better i just need to learn more about the idle so i can get that correct
.8 will work just fine for the injector dead-time, when you are all tuned and running well you can play with the dead-time and offset more. But get as much worked out now as possible, the dead-time isn't crucial .
In the test mode there is an idle valve test, you should use that to see if the idle valve is even working and which direction it is moving if at all.
If your fouling plugs then most likely you are rich , cut fuel from idle realm until you get the lowest kpa numbers. Are you using the idle ve table ? if not make sure its off and just us the ve table.
well i worked on the car today after walking away from the 72 350SL Mercedes that i am getting running for a customer .I put the rest of the exhaust on and started the car to see how it sounds i like it but it has it's own sound it doesn't sound like a European nor does it sound American but i think it sound good
what the hell not running again it starts on starting fluid or gas if i pour or spray it in the throttle body . i will check the injectors to make sure they there working if there working then on to fuel pressure
i cant seem to figure out why the injectors are not firing i checked the wires from the megasquirt and they are fine no breaks and the jim stim for testing the megasquirt shows the injectors firing but when a test light is plugged in it is not flashing i know i have power to the injectors and i took and tapped the injectors wire from the megasquirt to ground and they fire so why are they not firing
I wish i could say things are better but there not now i cant get the Megasquirt to work it is disconecting from tunerstudio and shutting down i think i fried the daughter board or something i will have to get a good ohm meeter and check every thing i can if it is the board i will get a new one
pulled my hair out for three days and think the daughter board is gone because i could not load the updated firmware so i order a new daughter board then i find it yes i find i am getting a voltage drop from my Jimstim but it seemed every time i pluged it in to the megasquirt it seem to overheat and voltage drop but it wasn't the megasquirt it was the cpu on the jimstim i just happen to touch it and found that it was hot way hotter than it should be so pulled it problem cured i got the new firmware loaded and reloaded my tune now i get to try it tommorow