Suspect looking area on the intake manifold mating surface. Some signs of wear can be seen on the gasket as well in the same area. Heres a pic of a helper holding the intake manifold. See the red line. Is this typical on the 2.5's? Hopefully these nice Fel-pros will take care of it.
So today we got the headbolts torqued. That third and last step in the torque process was kinda nerve racking. The 120 degree final turns and 90 degree on bolt 9 part. Felt like really pushing those bolts hard. Guess thats why the oil under the heads of the bolts is so important. Anyway rocker arms and push rods all back in and torqued. I kept them all in order and numbered BTW. Turning the motor with the plugs removed and all the vavles are going up and down nicely.
Cleaning the factory vavle cover gasket material is a real PITA. Also, IIRC 45ft lbs of torque on the valve cover bolts seems like ALOT.
Explitive, explitive... Being the super intellegent person that I am, duh, I decided to replace the EGR valve gasket while I was there. Guess what? The left EGR bolt came out of the nice soft aluminum intake manifold all wrong. Messed the threads up bad... Typical right? Possible to rethread this aluminum? Should i just get a longer bolt and a steel lock nut? Man I knew this was going way to smoothly...
Edit: Forgot a pic
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 03-08-2012).]
No big deal. Just remove the EGR, install a block off plate and be done with it.
But really, you can either drill and tap for a larger bolt, try and tap the current threads to see if you can "fix" them (doubtful, but no harm in trying) or like you said, get a bolt and nut and clamp it down that way.
No big deal. Just remove the EGR, install a block off plate and be done with it.
But really, you can either drill and tap for a larger bolt, try and tap the current threads to see if you can "fix" them (doubtful, but no harm in trying) or like you said, get a bolt and nut and clamp it down that way.
I was considering a EGR block off plate as matter of fact. We dont have smog here in Maine anyway. Would blocking it off throw codes? Whats the ideal way to deal with the vacuum line that runs off the EGR?
I squeezed my EGR and i could here it breathing into the TB. I'm not sure but I may rather keep it installed. Whats the advantages / disadvantages of removing the EGR? I guess that would be my next question.
I was considering a EGR block off plate as matter of fact. We dont have smog here in Maine anyway. Would blocking it off throw codes? Whats the ideal way to deal with the vacuum line that runs off the EGR?
I squeezed my EGR and i could here it breathing into the TB. I'm not sure but I may rather keep it installed. Whats the advantages / disadvantages of removing the EGR? I guess that would be my next question.
TYVM for your time!
Luckly, the Duke computer doesn't even know the EGR is there. No codes, no nothing. 2.8 is another story. So you can remove the EGR with NO issues whatsoever, maybe lose some MPG, but being so old now, most Duke actually run better without an EGR. Just put a block-off plate on it, remove the vac line and plug the port on the TB. Done.
Edit: Note, I said PLATE. A piece of 16ga sheet metal won't really cut it. Been there, done that.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 03-08-2012).]
I tried the " dont use the egr" route by unplugging the vacuum line from the egr and plugging the vacuum line route. Car ran crappy. I went out and longer bolts and nuts and did that for the stripped threads in the egr.
I tried the " dont use the egr" route by unplugging the vacuum line from the egr and plugging the vacuum line route. Car ran crappy. I went out and longer bolts and nuts and did that for the stripped threads in the egr.
TYVM for chiming in here. That's what I'm gonna try first. Longer bolts and nuts. I'm just curious about how the nut underneath the intake manifold will fit. That surface underneath is not flat or designed for a nut. We shall see...
Oh yeah, BTW! Do those bolts need to be grade #8? Couldn't tell by the ones I pulled. Me thinks so. Why not right?
Hopefully the car itself will be coming home from Nanna's house in the next few days. She was nice enough to let us store it there, in her garage for the winter. I'm giddy about the whole thing. That's when the real fun begins.
Thanks for any and all advice. I'll gladly take it!
Pretty simple stuff today, at least it seems so at this point. Got some new grade 8 bolts and nuts for the egr valve and put it back on with new gasket. I used a little bit of RTV. I dunno if thats good or bad.
Next thing was to address the O2 sensor. Original one busted off on us. Autozone has them in stock for $19.99. The factory one came out real easy. Guess thats one good thing about the really low mileage!! I haven't decided how to handle the exhaust manifold yet. Do i wanna pull it and put a new gasket on? Perhaps add a stud kit and get rid of the factory bolts? Something we have to consider.
I'm stumped, why did I get two of these? I know where one of them goes. T-stat housing to head gasket, wheres the other one go? No way they would send extras, would they?
Yes! Yes! Yes! srry. Cars coming home in the AM! Called our flatbed guy up and around 10am were going to get the car.
I did some electrical work for a guy who has a hoist sitting in his backyard. He's gonna bring the hoist over tomorrow. It's on. This should be very interesting. I gotta try and remember lots of pics. Also cant forget the needed standing in the engine bay pic.
I tried the " dont use the egr" route by unplugging the vacuum line from the egr and plugging the vacuum line route. Car ran crappy. I went out and longer bolts and nuts and did that for the stripped threads in the egr.
Steve W NE Grand Rapids, MI 88 Coupe
Doing that alone won't do much of any good, since The EGR could have been stuck open. It has to be removed and blocked off first.
And heres a few more parts to go in it. Nothing major but it adds up. Somehow I'm paying for these parts and Momma says thats how it should be. It's gonna be her damn car tho! Sheesh...
This fuel line is clogged. All the others had good airflow. It's clogged near the 90 degree bend in the metal tubing. Thick black sticky sludge. This is one of the lines that runs to the TB. It's not the one that runs through the filter but the other. A return line?
Next AC pump is seized like no tommorrow. Prbably wont be turning ever again. Not to mention that the pulley looks pretty toasty from where the belt sat forever. Can just make it out in this pic
Last thing so far today. This TB coolant line was plugged with dried up antifreeze at the end. I dug as much out as i could and blew gently into the end. I could see the antifreeze rising and falling in the line that connects to the water pump. Good sign, no major clogs so far in the coolant system.
Any rate new fuel tank and sender and all is in. Think I'm gonna just try and find a new fuel line and AC pump. Not a bad days work for a first day.
Yeah, the line that does not go through the filter is the return line. How bad was the inside of the fuel tank? Nice project with low mileage.
This bad...
Junked that old original tank and got a new one. It's just that one return line thats clogged with gunk. Guess we'll try some chemicals to clean it. I've been reading acetone but am worried about it eating away the rubber parts of this line. Perhaps we will try carb cleaner first.
Wow, that's nasty! You could try carb cleaner for cleaning the line that might work. I don't know if it would be good for the rubber parts of the line though.
No, no your just in time, this is where it starts to get interesting IMO. Enjoy your pocorn Hope you got a lot of it...
We want this car ready for the end of summer car show here at the beach. Guy who hooked us up with the cars gonna crap himself when he sees it sitting in the car show line up! Specially after it sat in his driveway for some 17-18 plus or minus years...Even if we can just make it to the show and back home, about a 2 mile round trip, we'd be happy. Anything more then that is bonus!
Your exzactly right about the plugs being out and so forth...Sad but true. So were thinking that motors gotta come out. Were gonna take some time and think over what to do. Motor swap or rebuild.
On a much happier note we got the missus's 81 gs450e running today!! Fun to ride.
Rebuild won't cost you a whole lot. To overhaul an engine with 85k miles, It's running me $1k (not including the engine cost itself. That was $600, since I couldn't find one local). $200 for the head/valves, and $800 for the block (400 parts, 400 labor). Mind you, they're grinding .010 off the crank, and boring the cylinders, along with replacing all plugs/bearings.
For you, considering it's a low mileage engine, I would think a total overhaul would be a little less (maybe $600, if you do the head yourself).
quote
Originally posted by weloveour86se:
Pretty new head gasket.
Suspect looking area on the intake manifold mating surface. Some signs of wear can be seen on the gasket as well in the same area. Heres a pic of a helper holding the intake manifold. See the red line. Is this typical on the 2.5's? Hopefully these nice Fel-pros will take care of it.
So today we got the headbolts torqued. That third and last step in the torque process was kinda nerve racking. The 120 degree final turns and 90 degree on bolt 9 part. Felt like really pushing those bolts hard. Guess thats why the oil under the heads of the bolts is so important. Anyway rocker arms and push rods all back in and torqued. I kept them all in order and numbered BTW. Turning the motor with the plugs removed and all the vavles are going up and down nicely.
Cleaning the factory vavle cover gasket material is a real PITA. Also, IIRC 45ft lbs of torque on the valve cover bolts seems like ALOT.
Hmmm.... #2 being loaded with carbon already? That must be common for the 2.5L's. Both of my 2.5's had heavy carbon in cylinder 2 compared to the others.
The manifold thing is NOT normal on the 2.5's. Neither of mine had that problem, but then again, it's a totally different intake manifold (mine have cavities in those 2 flat spots on yours)
For the valve cover torque, Are you sure it's not supposed to be 45 in. lb's? I would never torque mine to 45 ft.lbs, considering how narrow the bolts are!
quote
Originally posted by weloveour86se:
I'm stumped, why did I get two of these? I know where one of them goes. T-stat housing to head gasket, wheres the other one go? No way they would send extras, would they?
Mine came with 2 as well, so you're not alone. I'd keep it in case you figure it out.
Also, keep in mind, they may have had some variances in the different year dukes, but make a generic gasket kit to cover all of them. Cheaper/easier than stocking/making 10 different gasket sets. My head gasket kit came with 2 different valve cover gaskets, too.
[This message has been edited by Bstrickler934 (edited 03-21-2012).]
My fuel line cleaning kit. New fresh gas, a long piece of solid 12awg wire, and a small plastic bowl. Pour fresh gas into the line, let it sit over night. Then jammed the wire down through it over and over again. Kept pulling all kinda sludge out and couldn't get air through it. Finally I poured some gas in one end and it went down, added some more, went down again, third time, gas shot out the other end!! Sweat! Worked like a charm.
Used my, Iron lungs of cigarette smoke and other stuff smoke!, Huffed and I puffed! hehe and...prolly couldn't inflate a balloon if my life depended on it.
The gas did all the work. I left it soaking for another night as it's still coming out dark. Must be some residuals in there.
TFS wants like $90 plus shipping for the lines. I did not want the first day to already incur more costs. So I spent a long hard night thinking and after around 6 or 7 ice cold Coors light, it came to me! hehe. Maybe I should drink more beer?
Really tho thanks for any and all comments. God knows Im gonna be begging for advice and help soon enough!
Edit for typo..
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 03-21-2012).]
OK so far today.. Got the fuel return line all back installed. The gas tank and everything should be set. We will see...
Cheap labor force. Gummies and juice boxes.
Really before AC pump pulley clean up.
After clean up, And I got it to spin freely! The clutch thingy on the outside of the pulley could be cleaned up a lil more but I dont really care about AC, we live in Maine...
Probably chew a belt or two before it cleans itself up. We shall see. Might consider a shorter belt and no AC pump installed.
If you have a car thats parked for long periods you might consider going out and pulling the belts off. This one belt may have caused all of these pulleys to be junked. Just a tip that could save ALOT of extra work and $$$..
So I had to run and do a service call. Typical stuff, so it left me time to wrench some more. Heres more pics
Man long day. Having a bear of a time getting things lined back up. Got dark and time to pick up. Start over tomorrow. Moving the motor off the porch was interesting to say the least!
First day of 85 degree weather here at the beach. It's awful tough to stay focused with all the bikinis in town...
Me too, might pull those washers up top, I'm not sure they even go there. It doesn't look like the flange is up against the gasket tight enough.
Guess we will find out soon huh? Lol.
One line left, the cooling line to the TB. After that the fluids start to go in. Fresh oil, antifreeze, automatic tranny fluid. I'm getting nervous needless to say. Is it gonna start? Turn over? Catch on fire? Lol We will see soon!!
Yeah!! It's all finally back in. Just gotta hook the wire harness back up and throttle and shift cables and all that stuff...
Do these exhaust flange bolts and springs look correct? I think they are on wrong. LMK what you think.
Thanks for any and all advice and or tips.
Edit: do those washers even go there?
Boy its been a while since I did my exhaust manifold. If I remember correctly, I think the washers go on the head of the bolt? I will have to check my exhaust. Or they go on the spring .
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 03-23-2012).]
Of course some gas. Perhaps 2 gallons. Non AC serpentine belt. And finally some starter fluid. Just in case.
Gonna go grab some gas and toss it in. Let it settle and run to the mighty Wally World for the rest of stuff. Advanced Auto has our belt in stock.
Mommas B-day is today. This would make the best B-day gift ever IMHO.
Oh yeah also need the vac lines that run from the TB to the canister, hopefully one of my local parts stores has one of them racks with stock size hoses. Almost forgot about these!
Hope you got a lot of it...
