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84-87 12" Corvette Brake Swap... by Jncomutt
Started on: 06-09-2005 09:43 PM
Replies: 277 (41884 views)
Last post by: kevin on 11-08-2019 02:13 PM
1986GTV8
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Report this Post02-20-2006 12:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

A bump for 87GTBro

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kru
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Report this Post02-23-2006 12:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for kruClick Here to visit kru's HomePageClick Here to Email kruSend a Private Message to kruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This is an EXCELLENT thread. There are a couple other good threads as well. I have read and re-read them many times. I'm certainly not trying to knock any of them, but I do feel like a more complete parts/advice document is in order. Something that can be printed out for parts sourcing, if nothing else.

I spent the last couple hours putting together the following document regarding this brake upgrade. There are still several question marks that I would like to fill in, so if anyone can supply the answers, that would be great. I'd especially like to hear from some of you who have performed this upgrade. Especially if I've got anything wrong here. I'd like to update this document and have it available for people wanting to undertake this project. (Even though its not car radio related, I may even find a place to 'hide' it on my website: www.ReplacementRadios.com )

I think this particular thread is the best 'build' thread I've seen, so I don't plan to go into the step by step build process but, rather, provide a more complete parts list, some brief highlights (and possible hang-ups), as well as some links to this thread and other sites of relative interest.

I've got this saved as a Word document if anyone wants it. (Yep. I can be pretty anal sometimes.) Here goes...

**************************Start of document***************************

First, keep in mind that I have not yet performed this swap, so I can't speak for the performance or safety results. In other words, just like me, you should be performing this upgrade at your own risk. This document is just a compilation of information found in various places regarding this project.

Estimated total cost = @ $800, assuming mostly new or rebuilt parts (Detailed below.)

Parts list:

New 1988-96 Corvette 12” rotors (front for front, rear for rear) Try eBay for variety.
New Fiero Store stainless steel brake lines
New 1967-80 Corvette master cylinder (Try Rock Auto for good prices.)
Qty 4: New 10mm x 1 banjo bolts (Most auto stores.)
1984–87 Corvette front calipers (O’Reilly's reman #s: 18-4183 & 18-4184)
1984–87 Corvette front brackets (GM discontinued. Part#? Try Arts Corvette for used.)
*1988–96 Corvette rear calipers for e-brake*. (O’Reilly's reman #s 18-4323 & 18-4324)
*1988–96 Corvette rear brackets (GM# 10112652. EYE12652 at Arts) for 88-96 caliper
Alternative for rear: 1984–87 Corvette rear calipers for no e-brake (Part #s ??)
Alternative for rear: 1984–87 Corvette rear brackets for 84-87 caliper (Part #s ??)
Adapters & concentric rings. See bubbajoe’s site for specs or Cheetah’s site to order.
Qty 10: Long wheel stud. Front (Rear optional) Dorman 610-323. Advance Auto 98501
Qty 8: 12M 1.75 x 30mm hex head cap screws for front. (Hardware/fastener store)
Qty 8: 12M 1.75 x 20mm hex head cap screws for rear. (Hardware/fastener store)
New brake tubing (diameter or length ??)
Hubs (Original 84-87 Fiero rotors with the ‘disc’ portion ‘turned’ off.)
New brake pads of your choice for the calipers you selected.

‘Special’ Tools needed:

tubing bender
flare tool
12M 1.75 tap
grinder
hex bit/socket for caliper pins (size?)
A 'real' jack
jackstands

‘Special’ Instructions/Notes:

Rear spindles will need drilled and tapped to 12M 1.75 (Front already 12M 1.75?)
Grind off small ‘ear’ on front edge of rear spindles.
Have Corvette rotors drilled for 5x100 bolt pattern
Custom bend and flare brake lines. (Re-use existing fittings.)
Make custom e-brake 'loop' if you use 88-96 rear calipers and want e-brake.
It’s probably a good idea to replace bearings and seals while you have everything apart.
High-temp paint recommended for calipers. (Tape off pistons first.)
Minimum wheel size is 16". (Although some 16s may have clearance problems.)
May not be compatible w/ custom tubular control arms.
For 1984 to 1987 Fieros only. (Base, SE or GT.)

Links:

Bubbajoe’s website = http://members.fortunecity.com/bubbajoexx/id215.htm
Art’s Corvette website = www.artscorvetteparts.com
Fiero Store website = www.fierostore.com
Rock Auto website = www.rockauto.com
Cheetah’s website = http://www.cheetahonline.com/j3030.html
Excellent ‘build’ thread = http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/063914.html
Informative Pennock’s thread = http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/061483.html
Great factory/OEM CD car radios = www.replacementradios.com (Couldn't resist )

-Kevin

[This message has been edited by kru (edited 02-23-2006).]

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northeastfiero
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Report this Post02-24-2006 09:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for northeastfieroClick Here to Email northeastfieroSend a Private Message to northeastfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Have already tried but no harm in trying again.
Does any one have or able to get the front and rear caliper brackets Arts Corvette doesnt stock them any more.
This is all that I need to get started on my swap
Thanks Carl.

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fiero go fast
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Report this Post02-24-2006 01:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero go fastClick Here to Email fiero go fastSend a Private Message to fiero go fastEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

What I did to get all of the parts fairly cheap was to join a corvette forum and just post in their for sale section. Within 2 weeks I had all the parts I needed. All of them were used, but I got lucky and found everything with under 30,000 miles on it. I would try there. Just do a google search. You can also get the brackets you're looking for quite a bit cheaper. Front (84-87) and rear calipers (88-96) with brackets I don't think I payed over $150. Worth a shot.

Matt

[This message has been edited by fiero go fast (edited 02-24-2006).]

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87GTBro
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Report this Post02-26-2006 02:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87GTBroClick Here to Email 87GTBroSend a Private Message to 87GTBroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I began installing this brake upgrade and ran in to a problem with the front brakes. I had the brake adapters machined to bubbajoes exact specs. While test fitting the adapters and calipers I found that the banjo bolt on the caliper hits the lower part of the shock before the steering rack hits the end of its travel... Did anyone else complain of having this problem? The steering radius of the Fiero already sucks as it is. I don't want to sacrifice any more.

-------------------
Nevermind.... fatigue is affecting my brain function. The clearance is perfect with a compressed suspension! Reminder though.... make sure your wheel is straight when you jack up the car....

[This message has been edited by 87GTBro (edited 02-26-2006).]

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Custom84cp
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Report this Post02-26-2006 09:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Custom84cpClick Here to Email Custom84cpSend a Private Message to Custom84cpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 87GTBro:

I began installing this brake upgrade and ran in to a problem with the front brakes. I had the brake adapters machined to bubbajoes exact specs. While test fitting the adapters and calipers I found that the banjo bolt on the caliper hits the lower part of the shock before the steering rack hits the end of its travel... Did anyone else complain of having this problem? The steering radius of the Fiero already sucks as it is. I don't want to sacrifice any more.

This is just a guess, but it sounds like you have the calipers on the wrong sides (left on right, right on left). The banjo bolts should be at the top of the caliper not at the bottom.
Hope this helps.. Steve

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HellYes
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Report this Post03-04-2006 07:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HellYesSend a Private Message to HellYesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rear adapter

This drawing is incomplete. Anyone have the rest of the dimensions?

One if these 2 dimensions are needed to make a part from this print.

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Report this Post03-04-2006 08:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Unltd1Click Here to visit Unltd1's HomePageSend a Private Message to Unltd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by HellYes:
Rear adapter

This drawing is incomplete. Anyone have the rest of the dimensions?

One if these 2 dimensions are needed to make a part from this print.

The drawing is complete... at least to my eye... the centerline is drawn... 3.5625... so the complete dimension is
7.125

hope that helps you

-Darius

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HellYes
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Report this Post03-04-2006 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HellYesSend a Private Message to HellYesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The part is not symetrical, so I cannot assume a center line that is not properly noted as center line is correct. The line is not dashed, does not extend through to the other sde, and is not noted CL. Just making sure I am not paying to have junk made. Cautious Stainless is not cheap.

[This message has been edited by HellYes (edited 03-04-2006).]

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Unltd1
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Report this Post03-05-2006 01:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Unltd1Click Here to visit Unltd1's HomePageSend a Private Message to Unltd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I think the part is symetrical, the only thing that is not is the location of the holes...
I agree it would be nice if the centerline had been chain dotted... but from every other outer dimension on it... it looks symmetrical to me...
have you tried emailing/pm-ing cheetah to ask him... since he had some of these made... (I'm assuming from the same drawing)

(also I must apologize, I just now read that someone else's post having given the measurements the same....sorry to have duplicated..)

here is a bump up for you to get a more satisfactorial answer.

-Darius

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post04-19-2006 02:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Which rotor goes where?

I am closing in on doing my brakes, & noticed that the "hat" on two of the rotors are taller than the others.

Which are the front ones?

Thanks.

John

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post04-19-2006 09:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Gone a few hrs & this is allready on page three.

Selfish bump for me.

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Jncomutt
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Report this Post04-19-2006 11:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 1986GTV8:

Which rotor goes where?

I am closing in on doing my brakes, & noticed that the "hat" on two of the rotors are taller than the others.

Which are the front ones?

The front rotors we used were 'rough' on both the angled and straight surfaces of the 'hat'. On the rear, the angled surface was rough, and the area that stuck outward from that was machined. Not sure if that helps any?

Heres a pic, the rotors on the RIGHT are fronts.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/Fierofiend/P6030039.jpg

EDIT, just realized, the REAR rotors had extra holes in them too...

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 04-19-2006).]

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post04-22-2006 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thaks, but I was interested in which of the taller rotors goes where.

It appears that the center protion of the rotor is higher on two of them.

Would the taller ones be for the rear??

THANKS!

John

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post04-23-2006 10:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Little help here.

I thank you in advance.

I suppose tha it is a 50/50 shot though.

One of my favorite threads!!

John

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Jncomutt
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Report this Post04-23-2006 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Did you buy the rotors new?

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fiero_silva
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Report this Post04-23-2006 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero_silvaClick Here to Email fiero_silvaSend a Private Message to fiero_silvaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Unltd1:


The drawing is complete... at least to my eye... the centerline is drawn... 3.5625... so the complete dimension is
7.125

hope that helps you

-Darius


I still think it's missing some dimensions... And what is with the dimensions down to 1/10000 of an inch?? That's a bit extreme...

I;ve been trying to model it in solidedge for a bit and can't figgure out for the life of me the correct dimensions for the outside of the part....

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post04-27-2006 12:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yes, new rotors.

I guess that I have a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time.

SO, just what is the diffrence between the front and rear rotors?

There must be as we are asked to get both front & rear rotors. Hmmmm.

John

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post05-04-2006 11:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Have people stopped doing this swap???

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dguy
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Report this Post05-05-2006 08:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dguyClick Here to visit dguy's HomePageSend a Private Message to dguyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 1986GTV8:

Have people stopped doing this swap???


I doubt that, however not everyone is going to have the rotors side-by-side on a bench for a compare & answer to your question.

If you can't wait for an answer from someone here, track down a parts store which has each rotor in stock and ask to have a look.

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post05-06-2006 02:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yes, it looks like that is what it is going to take.

I just presumed that tohers that did the swap would have remembered.

Thanks.

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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post05-06-2006 03:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 1986GTV8:

Yes, new rotors.

I guess that I have a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time.

SO, just what is the diffrence between the front and rear rotors?

There must be as we are asked to get both front & rear rotors. Hmmmm.

John


Difference is ~7mm of offset. The front rotor offset is higher (the rotors are further toward the center of the car).

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Report this Post05-16-2006 11:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fastcaddyClick Here to Email 1fastcaddySend a Private Message to 1fastcaddyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

bump

------------------
85 black gt-being converted to isuzu and duke
85/86 2m4-parts car to swap isuzu into gt

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post05-25-2006 09:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thank you Steven Snyder. A (+) for you.

I hope that this info helps others doing this swap.

John

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Report this Post07-10-2006 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by HellYes:

Rear adapter


This drawing is incomplete. Anyone have the rest of the dimensions?

One if these 2 dimensions are needed to make a part from this print.



the piece is 7 .125 long

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Report this Post07-10-2006 10:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by kru:

This is an EXCELLENT thread. There are a couple other good threads as well. I have read and re-read them many times. I'm certainly not trying to knock any of them, but I do feel like a more complete parts/advice document is in order. Something that can be printed out for parts sourcing, if nothing else.

I spent the last couple hours putting together the following document regarding this brake upgrade. There are still several question marks that I would like to fill in, so if anyone can supply the answers, that would be great. I'd especially like to hear from some of you who have performed this upgrade. Especially if I've got anything wrong here. I'd like to update this document and have it available for people wanting to undertake this project. (Even though its not car radio related, I may even find a place to 'hide' it on my website: www.ReplacementRadios.com )

I think this particular thread is the best 'build' thread I've seen, so I don't plan to go into the step by step build process but, rather, provide a more complete parts list, some brief highlights (and possible hang-ups), as well as some links to this thread and other sites of relative interest.

I've got this saved as a Word document if anyone wants it. (Yep. I can be pretty anal sometimes.) Here goes...

**************************Start of document***************************

First, keep in mind that I have not yet performed this swap, so I can't speak for the performance or safety results. In other words, just like me, you should be performing this upgrade at your own risk. This document is just a compilation of information found in various places regarding this project.

Estimated total cost = @ $800, assuming mostly new or rebuilt parts (Detailed below.)

Parts list:

New 1988-96 Corvette 12” rotors (front for front, rear for rear) Try eBay for variety.
New Fiero Store stainless steel brake lines
New 1967-80 Corvette master cylinder (Try Rock Auto for good prices.)
Qty 4: New 10mm x 1 banjo bolts (Most auto stores.)
1984–87 Corvette front calipers (O’Reilly's reman #s: 18-4183 & 18-4184)
1984–87 Corvette front brackets (GM discontinued. Part#? Try Arts Corvette for used.)
*1988–96 Corvette rear calipers for e-brake*. (O’Reilly's reman #s 18-4323 & 18-4324)
*1988–96 Corvette rear brackets (GM# 10112652. EYE12652 at Arts) for 88-96 caliper
Alternative for rear: 1984–87 Corvette rear calipers for no e-brake (Part #s ??)
Alternative for rear: 1984–87 Corvette rear brackets for 84-87 caliper (Part #s ??)
Adapters & concentric rings. See bubbajoe’s site for specs or Cheetah’s site to order.
Qty 10: Long wheel stud. Front (Rear optional) Dorman 610-323. Advance Auto 98501
Qty 8: 12M 1.75 x 30mm hex head cap screws for front. (Hardware/fastener store)
Qty 8: 12M 1.75 x 20mm hex head cap screws for rear. (Hardware/fastener store)
New brake tubing (diameter or length ??)
Hubs (Original 84-87 Fiero rotors with the ‘disc’ portion ‘turned’ off.)
New brake pads of your choice for the calipers you selected.

‘Special’ Tools needed:

tubing bender
flare tool
12M 1.75 tap
grinder
hex bit/socket for caliper pins (size?)
A 'real' jack
jackstands

‘Special’ Instructions/Notes:

Rear spindles will need drilled and tapped to 12M 1.75 (Front already 12M 1.75?)
Grind off small ‘ear’ on front edge of rear spindles.
Have Corvette rotors drilled for 5x100 bolt pattern
Custom bend and flare brake lines. (Re-use existing fittings.)
Make custom e-brake 'loop' if you use 88-96 rear calipers and want e-brake.
It’s probably a good idea to replace bearings and seals while you have everything apart.
High-temp paint recommended for calipers. (Tape off pistons first.)
Minimum wheel size is 16". (Although some 16s may have clearance problems.)
May not be compatible w/ custom tubular control arms.
For 1984 to 1987 Fieros only. (Base, SE or GT.)

Links:

Bubbajoe’s website = http://members.fortunecity.com/bubbajoexx/id215.htm
Art’s Corvette website = www.artscorvetteparts.com
Fiero Store website = www.fierostore.com
Rock Auto website = www.rockauto.com
Cheetah’s website = http://www.cheetahonline.com/j3030.html
Excellent ‘build’ thread = http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/063914.html
Informative Pennock’s thread = http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/061483.html
Great factory/OEM CD car radios = www.replacementradios.com (Couldn't resist )

-Kevin


info can be found here as well
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/033676-9.html

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fiero go fast
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Report this Post07-17-2006 08:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero go fastClick Here to Email fiero go fastSend a Private Message to fiero go fastEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Well I've almost fully finished completeing the swap, all I need to do is hook up the lines to the new master cylinder, bleed the brakes and figure out to connect the outersleeve of the ebrake cable to something. I understand how I should connect the core of the cable to the ebrake arm on the caliper, but what should I connect the actual ebrake outer sleeve to?

Matt

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gryphon025
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Report this Post07-20-2006 02:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for gryphon025Send a Private Message to gryphon025Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Just want to confirm that this swap will work on an 88 as I know that the brakes are a little different due to the different suspension.

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Comealongway
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Report this Post07-31-2006 12:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Jncomutt what brand of rotors did you purchase?

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dguy
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Report this Post10-27-2006 01:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dguyClick Here to visit dguy's HomePageSend a Private Message to dguyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have a question regarding the front hub/rotor/rim fit which the photos on page one don't answer for me...

After machining off the friction surface of an old front rotor and installing the 'Vette rotor over top, does enough of the hub protrude through the rotor to center the rim properly, or does this conversion rely upon the assumption that lug nut-to-rim fit will center the rim as the nuts are tightened?

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87GTBro
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Report this Post11-01-2006 07:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87GTBroClick Here to Email 87GTBroSend a Private Message to 87GTBroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

OK, I mostly completed this brake swap several months ago and have been very happy with the results. I still had not connected the e-brake cable until a few days ago.

Can someone post better pics of the e-brake cable setup? The problem with the pic in this thread is, the cable sheath does not appear to be fastened to anything. In that case when you engage the e-brake, the cable will just lift up from the lower A-arm instead of pulling down on the e-brake lever on the caliper. Am I making sense?

Can someone with a working e-brake setup snap some pics for me so I can have an idea what to do?

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by 87GTBro (edited 11-01-2006).]

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87GTBro
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Report this Post11-01-2006 08:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87GTBroClick Here to Email 87GTBroSend a Private Message to 87GTBroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by dguy:

I have a question regarding the front hub/rotor/rim fit which the photos on page one don't answer for me...

After machining off the friction surface of an old front rotor and installing the 'Vette rotor over top, does enough of the hub protrude through the rotor to center the rim properly, or does this conversion rely upon the assumption that lug nut-to-rim fit will center the rim as the nuts are tightened?


The lug bolts still retain the original location and pattern. The rim will center just as it did on the original hub. You will be installing longer lug bolts on the front to account for the thickness of the added rotor.

The concentric rings are designed to center the rotor, not the rim.

Oh, BTW, If anyone would like AutoCAD drawings of the adapters needed for this upgrade, drop me a line at dcampbell@rgv.rr.com

All you have to do is take the drawings to any machine shop with the right tools and they can run the parts for you. These are the same drawings I used on my swap and the adapters worked perfectly.

[This message has been edited by 87GTBro (edited 11-01-2006).]

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dguy
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Report this Post11-02-2006 08:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dguyClick Here to visit dguy's HomePageSend a Private Message to dguyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 87GTBro:


The lug bolts still retain the original location and pattern. The rim will center just as it did on the original hub. You will be installing longer lug bolts on the front to account for the thickness of the added rotor.

The concentric rings are designed to center the rotor, not the rim.


Thanks, but that's not what I was asking.

On an original hub, the rim is not centered by the lug bolts; it is centered by the fit of the rim's center bore over the area of the hub which protrudes past the rotor hat.

What I would like to know is how much of that protruding area is left, if any, after modifying the fronts. i.e. are the front wheels still hub-centric after all is said & done, or does the work also change them to lug-centric?

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87GTBro
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Report this Post11-02-2006 05:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87GTBroClick Here to Email 87GTBroSend a Private Message to 87GTBroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by dguy:


Thanks, but that's not what I was asking.

On an original hub, the rim is not centered by the lug bolts; it is centered by the fit of the rim's center bore over the area of the hub which protrudes past the rotor hat.

What I would like to know is how much of that protruding area is left, if any, after modifying the fronts. i.e. are the front wheels still hub-centric after all is said & done, or does the work also change them to lug-centric?


The rims do not even touch the 1/8" protrusion or hat (dust cover) that covers the castle nut on the front hubs. If you have ever noticed the tapered edge on a lug nut, that taper is designed to center each hole in the rim over the lug bolt. This is what centers the rim on the hub. If the rim was indeed centered by that lip on the hub, it would be necessary that all rims be manufactured with identical center bore diameters. This just isn't the case.

The answwer to your original question though is:

No, this swap has no affect on the centering of the rims on any of the four wheels. Because the lug bolts are all still in the stock location, the rims still stay centered on the hubs.

[This message has been edited by 87GTBro (edited 11-02-2006).]

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1fastcaddy
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Report this Post12-16-2006 08:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fastcaddyClick Here to Email 1fastcaddySend a Private Message to 1fastcaddyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

just a little bump and a question, how much different are 97+ ls1 camaro brakes than these? The fbodys should be the same as the same year corvette correct? Thanks, Drew

------------------

1985 GT Fastback
Low Original Miles at 41,506!!!
01 Cavalier Z24 16" wheels
KYB shocks
KYB struts with coilovers-coming soon

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Fierofreak00
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Report this Post12-27-2006 08:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fierofreak00Click Here to Email Fierofreak00Send a Private Message to Fierofreak00Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Bump...to add to favorites list.....-

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Jncomutt
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Report this Post12-27-2006 10:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Comealongway:

Jncomutt what brand of rotors did you purchase?


Not sure, they came from ebay.

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fieroluv
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Report this Post12-28-2006 08:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroluvClick Here to Email fieroluvSend a Private Message to fieroluvEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


Is there anyone still making the rings for 84-87 fiero's? it doesn't appear that cheetah is making them anymore. The brackets I could probably manage myself on a band saw, but the rings could cause me some problems.

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Jncomutt
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Report this Post12-28-2006 11:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Whoops, nvm

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 12-28-2006).]

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1fastcaddy
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Report this Post12-31-2006 12:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fastcaddyClick Here to Email 1fastcaddySend a Private Message to 1fastcaddyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I can make rings if you are interested, I actually have 2 I just made for my 97+ fbody 12" swap, but I made mine a little wider. Its .330 thick instead of .27 or whatever. Let me know, Drew

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