The car is all stock. 128k miles. New water pump. Runs great (now), but after about 20 minutes it rockets to 240°. I can't find any leaks. I did fill the coolant using recommended procedure. New thermostat didn't help so I left it out and it's still doing the same thing. Any suggestions? Thanks.
If the radiator is original it may be partially blocked, have it checked by a radiator shop. Also check to make sure the radiator hoses aren't collapsing and check to be sure the coolant tubes under the car on each side are not crushed or bent.
You could still have air in the system. Also check if your fan running properly. Other less likely things to consider: plugged radiator, timing off, faulty rad caps, faulty water pump.
You could still have air in the system. Also check if your fan running properly. Other less likely things to consider: plugged radiator, timing off, faulty rad caps, faulty water pump.
FYI, no timing adjustment on 87-88 Dukes. DIS spark system.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
FYI, no timing adjustment on 87-88 Dukes. DIS spark system.
Good point....I guess that just jumped out of my head as a general comment from other cars. I should have thought about the context a little longer. Thanks for the correction.
Ok guys, it seems I am not as good at following directions as I thought. I still have air in the system because I can hear a trickle in the radiator while running. I also found the thermostat housing cap is leaking a drop every two seconds or so, I just went and bought a new one. The fan kicks in both when the ac is on and when temp reaches about 225-230°, so I think I am okay there. I guess I need to get an engineering degree to be competent enough to fill the cooling system. What a damn roller coaster. In 2 weeks time I went from " you want to buy a what, a Fiero......hahahah" . Then after I drove it I was like " this is kinda cool". Then I was like " hey maybe I want one for myself" then I said hell no, one is enough! Tomorrow I am supposed to be going to look at another one! These damn cars are like crack!!!
Ok guys, it seems I am not as good at following directions as I thought. I still have air in the system because I can hear a trickle in the radiator while running. I also found the thermostat housing cap is leaking a drop every two seconds or so, I just went and bought a new one. The fan kicks in both when the ac is on and when temp reaches about 225-230°, so I think I am okay there. I guess I need to get an engineering degree to be competent enough to fill the cooling system. What a damn roller coaster. In 2 weeks time I went from " you want to buy a what, a Fiero......hahahah" . Then after I drove it I was like " this is kinda cool". Then I was like " hey maybe I want one for myself" then I said hell no, one is enough! Tomorrow I am supposed to be going to look at another one! These damn cars are like crack!!!
LOL. Yes they are!
Park the car on a slight decline, such as a driveway. If not, then jack the rear slightly. Remove the t-stat, and open the radiator cap. Pour coolant slowly into the t-stat housing until it coolant comes out of the radiator at an increases rate. Cap the radiator. Now, all this may be redundant. The one thing some people may leave out: Cap the t-stat housing without the t-stat. Turn the cap until it is only half way. You will feel the half way point as you twist it on. Start car and run for a few minutes. If there is air in the system it will burp out the coolant bottle. Un cap t-stat housing and top off. I usually repeat the air burping process one more time. remove t-stat housing cap, top off. replace the t-stat and tighten cap the completely. You should be good to go with out any air.
I am at the end of my rope!!! I put the car on an incline. Ass end up. I removed the radiator cap. I topped off the reservoir. I removed the thermostat cap and thermostat. I put coolant in the thermostat housing until it came out of the radiator. I capped the radiator then continued to fill the block till full, making sure the hose back from the radiator was also full. I closed the housing without thermostat. I ran the car till it got to 220°. I let it cool. Topped off the housing. Replaced the thermostat and put a brand new cap on. Started and drove the car for 15 minutes and it shot up to 240°. I pulled in the driveway and shut it down and it puked coolant out of the reservoir. WTF? I am about to take a blow torch to this f@#*ing piece of plastic ass remote control half a car made from leftovers and killed off just as they were getting it almost right! Anyway, I really like this car and don't want to destroy it. So any help would be appreciated.
This I don't get. Did you fill the overflow reservoir next to the radiator? It should be mostly empty. Also, be sure you have the non-vented cap on the radiator.
The reservoir was probably half full when I started. I checked the pipes they're okay no kinks or crushed spots, new water pump, fan kicks in at about 230°, the housing cap is new. I am not sure about the radiator cap. I am at a loss. I have flushed the radiator as well.
If you've checked everything else (coolant tubes, radiator, etc.), check the connector with a hose on it under the intake manifold. It has a "quick disconnect" connector on it that often corrodes badly and may be blocked. It is supposed to allow a restricted amount of flow. With either full flow (no restriction) or blocked flow, you can have problems.
At first it did before it spiked. When it spiked I tried to cool the coolant down by turning the heater on and it was not blowing hot.
Things to check: a) Connector under intake manifold may be clogged. b) Heater core may be clogged c) Water pump may not be pumping.
Oh, yeah, I think dukes came with water pumps that turned clockwise or counter-clockwise, depending on belt routing. Make sure you have the correct water pump for your car. If you have one meant for another model car, it may be turning the wrong way.
Park the car on a slight decline, such as a driveway. If not, then jack the rear slightly. Remove the t-stat, and open the radiator cap. Pour coolant slowly into the t-stat housing until it coolant comes out of the radiator at an increases rate. Cap the radiator. Now, all this may be redundant. The one thing some people may leave out: Cap the t-stat housing without the t-stat. Turn the cap until it is only half way. You will feel the half way point as you twist it on. Start car and run for a few minutes. If there is air in the system it will burp out the coolant bottle. Un cap t-stat housing and top off. I usually repeat the air burping process one more time. remove t-stat housing cap, top off. replace the t-stat and tighten cap the completely. You should be good to go with out any air.
Don't mean to be redundant. When you ran the car without the t-stat did you tighten the t-stat cap until it clicked to the halfway point? You don't want the cap to be all the way tighened down. The system will presurize and not allow the air to escape.
[This message has been edited by Jason88Notchie (edited 07-09-2014).]
I just came inside after changing the water pump, new coolant, new caps ( both radiator and tstat). Flushed radiator and block. The only thing I have not done is the intake manifold quick connect. I guess I will have to do it after it cools back down. It did the exact same thing. It stayed around 225° for about 10 minutes then shot up to 250°. Luckily I was already pulling in the driveway. Oh well if its not the quick connect, I give up.
Well after all that, turned out o be the head gasket after all. Thanks to all the guys who helped with it, especially Joe and Brian. Little base coupe is running great!
Well after all that, turned out o be the head gasket after all. Thanks to all the guys who helped with it, especially Joe and Brian. Little base coupe is running great!
somebody explain how the head gasket made his car overheat...there mustve been a sign if head gasket was the problem
The head gasket may allow combustion gas to leak into the coolant.....putting more and more 'air' into the system until the area around the water pump is mostly air.....and that will cause the coolant not to flow and overheat. Depending on how quickly this happens, there may be slight coolant overflow at the tank that is hard to notice. The only obvious thing will be that the coolant level will be low when cold.
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 10-31-2014).]
Well after all that, turned out o be the head gasket after all. Thanks to all the guys who helped with it, especially Joe and Brian. Little base coupe is running great!
The head gasket may allow combustion gas to leak into the coolant.....putting more and more 'air' into the system until the area around the water pump is mostly air.....and that will cause the coolant not to flow and overheat. Depending on how quickly this happens, there may be slight coolant overflow at the tank that is hard to notice. The only obvious thing will be that the coolant level will be low when cold.
[This message has been edited by knarfluna (edited 11-08-2014).]
The head gasket may allow combustion gas to leak into the coolant.....putting more and more 'air' into the system until the area around the water pump is mostly air.....and that will cause the coolant not to flow and overheat. Depending on how quickly this happens, there may be slight coolant overflow at the tank that is hard to notice. The only obvious thing will be that the coolant level will be low when cold.
I have done everything....new everything...I used a block tester at the overflow reservoir, and at the radiator. Tested negative...TRUE BLUE liquid after about 5 minutes of pumping...
then I took it for a long drive....seemed ok on the temp gage....until I backed up my driveway...then it slowly spiked hot ....I revved the engine it stopped spiking temporarily...then I let it idle...fan came on...temp still rising steady even with fan on...then I watched the coolant fill up the over flow canister and spit out....now the rad fan blowing cool air... which means i've lost the coolant and it stopped circulating...Do you agree?
I let it cool down....I open the thermostat cap....cant see any coolant.....I begin to refill again...burping...etc....now I see a thin film of something floating on top of the coolant...very little...so I grabbed my block tester and tested at the thermostat opening.....GREEN within 5 pumps....and I didn't suck any coolant into the tester. F%$#!!
makes sense....bad head gasket..leaking pressure into the cooling system....hoses were super pressurized...couldn't squeeze them...forced the coolant to overflow...losing all my coolant...cant recirculate whats left in the system...Do I have this right???
Try this test: With the engine cold (full of coolant), run the car a few seconds, stop the engine, and then remove the thermostat housing cap. If any coolant bubbles out, you have a gasket leak. Of course, this will not be conclusive, if you have a leak that only develops with the engine hot.
With the guidance of a wise forum member, I borrowed a digital scope from work, and checked all the pistons through the spark plug holes. One piston was shiny and clean. The head gasket had a tiny breach from an exhaust port to the cylinder so it would spray coolant onto the piston. I bought a gasket kit on Amazon for around $40, but I spent another $15 for the good blue ribbed rubber valve cover gasket. I also paid a friend at a machine shop to dip and check the head for warpage and cracks. I was fortunate that there was nothing wrong with the head. It took about five hours with regular hand tools split over two days. Not at all to difficult.
