IIRC, these quantities gave me a few spares, but I thought it was best this way. You can get more specific on the ordered quantity if you like. Use Red where you have red lenses, Amber for amber lenses, White for clear ( back up lights). You could use White for all of them, but you get a higher visible llight using the color.
What type of vehicle do you have and what year? That is necessary info to purchase the correct lights. I used West Coast Classic Cougar for two element equivalent LEDs in red and amber for an 88 Formula. Their bulbs work well for this application and should last quite a while. They also have some single contact LEDs, but do not have any in one of the two required colors.
I have tried several of the common styles of LED 1157 replacements as well as brighter incandescent bulbs. Comparing different bulbs side by side, I have yet to find a bulb that is overall brighter both in tail and turn that has a good contrast between the two.
It seems that is too much to ask for. My Notchie tails are tinted, tho not heavily, hence my quest for a bulb that fits the bill.
I have seen some more radical designs, but most are close to $15 per bulb, meaning almost $100 just for better tail lights.
I would like to 3rd West Coast Classic Cougar. Larryinkc turned both me and hnthomps onto them. I am very happy with the performance vs. other ebay crappy bulbs I had tried. You pay for what you get in this world.
I just started reading into this thread.. and from the first post ... the introduction of Black Top Racing...
So I started to research.. see what they sell and so on.. first off, ( not knowing this company or ever hearing of it or on pennocks) I was kind of impressed, 😀 looking up vehicle specific catogory for lighting..... and a Pontiac Fiero was in the first row on top from all the others on the list.. I was like, cool.. specialized... so I proceeded and click the Fiero.. the page pops up...
..... I was reading and clicked on the " Watch Fiero videos Here!"
A white Fiero was shown and a gentleman started talking/ showing videos....
----> but anyway...
There's a thread on FB about the scoops and how they can cause overheating.. reversed airflow design etc... okay while moving but in traffic, will cause high temps..luckily, this Fiero had a middle added vent... so I'm like, okay.. he proceeded to talk about the custom made vents the side scoops mount to that took 2 months to make and the back and forth......
BUT THeN I SEE on the mount ... the ridiculously small 3" circle cutout with all this other area flat and restricted 😐.. he says 6 but it's smaller than his fist.. anyway,... I was thinking, why go through all the trouble of having some intake scoop, for improvement in some way... but then right off the start, plug the hole? Smh
Okay.. sorry for the interruption.. please continue---
[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 01-10-2018).]
Because of LED ----- Does anyone have issues to where their left and right turn signal stay on all the time - solid, no blinking when the lights are turned on and no rapid flash.. but when I use the turn signal, the dash lights function fine: one's off and the other is blinking?.. including all exterior bulbs; they work.. although I wish the amber turn signals were brighter.
To let you in.... I installed different bulbs and housing fixtures in the lower 2 front spots - ( where the rectangle ambers are )-- - I made a custom bracket and installed in it: parking/running lights - now a (1) 3 little LED bubble.. like a semi trailer side amber light... and then I have a separate lamp that is a combo of a fog light (as halogen) in addition (separate switch, wiring and inline fuse used otherthan of the car's lighting system and wiring)--.. this lamp also has turn signals/ flashers in it- these are also in LED, a 5 row amber and the harness that I put together is made of plug and play to the stock car's wiring..
I installed the heavy duty turn signal flasher under the dash because everywhere I read, the readings told me to.. but I saw somewhere in one of these links above that they sell a hazard flasher for our cars in addition to the turn signal flasher?. more looking like a 2 pronged relay.. Do our cars have this? Would this solve the ohm resistance problem I have?
What do you think it is...? Did anyone have to install the load resistors ive been researching about or the flasher / maybe 2, for everything to work properly, was sufficient enough?-- this wire bridge between positive and negative to show the ohm of a incandescent bulb draws?... I have the Pilot Automotive Led load resistors.. but I just don't like the fact of jumping the wiring with this cheap gold housing thinga'merbob. Even though it cost 13
[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 01-11-2018).]
Because of LED ----- Does anyone have issues to where their left and right turn signal stay on all the time - solid, no blinking when the lights are turned on and no rapid flash.. but when I use the turn signal, the dash lights function fine: one's off and the other is blinking?.. including all exterior bulbs; they work.. although I wish the amber turn signals were brighter.
To let you in.... I installed different bulbs and housing fixtures in the lower 2 front spots - ( where the rectangle ambers are )-- - I made a custom bracket and installed in it: parking/running lights - now a (1) 3 little LED bubble.. like a semi trailer side amber light... and then I have a separate lamp that is a combo of a fog light (as halogen) in addition (separate switch, wiring and inline fuse used otherthan of the car's lighting system and wiring)--.. this lamp also has turn signals/ flashers in it- these are also in LED, a 5 row amber and the harness that I put together is made of plug and play to the stock car's wiring..
I installed the heavy duty turn signal flasher under the dash because everywhere I read, the readings told me to.. but I saw somewhere in one of these links above that they sell a hazard flasher for our cars in addition to the turn signal flasher?. more looking like a 2 pronged relay.. Do our cars have this? Would this solve the ohm resistance problem I have?
What do you think it is...? Did anyone have to install the load resistors ive been researching about or the flasher / maybe 2, for everything to work properly, was sufficient enough?-- this wire bridge between positive and negative to show the ohm of a incandescent bulb draws?... I have the Pilot Automotive Led load resistors.. but I just don't like the fact of jumping the wiring with this cheap gold housing thinga'merbob. Even though it cost 13
The Fiero requires two separate flashers. One is for the turn signals and the other for the Hazard flashers. If you are using LEDs, be certain to use LED compatible flashers. On a couple of my cars, I saw that the installed flashers were LED compatible and on others, they were the original mechanical flashers. I found relatively inexpensive flashers that were labeled as LED compatible at Auto Zone and were also relatively inexpensive. These flashers are both two prongs and one is supposed to be better and slightly more expensive. Being cheap and need in the flashers soon, I purchased one of each type. The "lesser" flasher is LL552 and cost around $6 IIRC and supports six lamps. The other flasher is EL12 and is supposed to be heavy duty and supports up to ten lamps with a retail pricing of somewhere around $11.
With regard to flashers, I have installed all 1157 LED lights on an 88 Formula along with the two LED compatible flasher units and everything works correctly. On Monday or Tuesday, I will install LED tail and stop lights on an 87 GT. The GT is wired differently than the Formula and uses a mix of 1156 and 1157 lights. I will also be changing the flasher units to the ones indicated above.
I will let everyone else know if there are any unexpected issues with the GT platform LED changeover as well as a list of what I used for LED lights.
At least one problem is apparent when trying to use Sylvania Zevo LEDs for the single filament amber bulb replacements. They will not fit in the socket even after modifying the pin contours. However, the West Coast Classic Cougar LEDs go right in and function correctly. WCCC unfortunately does not have these bulbs in amber but does carry them in white. These bulbs are apparently a custom design and there is not a big enough market at the current time to make the amber LEDs. I will order some white LEDs for the turn signals and see if they work better.
I remember having an issue with fitment as well. I used a round grinding ball ( maybe 1" in diameter) chucked in a drill to relieve the entrance point of the socket, so the bulb would sit down a little further into the socket. Only took a little off to make it work.
WCCC unfortunately does not have these bulbs in amber but does carry them in white. These bulbs are apparently a custom design and there is not a big enough market at the current time to make the amber LEDs.
Nelson
Since these are LED lights and run pretty cool, you could always spray them with a color coating such as Krylon stained glass. This person did their lenses but I'm sure you could do the bulbs instead:
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 01-20-2018).]
I do not believe that is the problem with my Sylvania LEDs. The WCCC LEDs that I have slide in perfectly with almost no resistance and they stay in the socket. Since I have three more vehicles to convert, I will be using some more WCCC LED bulbs if the white LEDs look ok in an amber housing. I will order the new bulbs tomorrow and should have them later in the week to see how they fit.
I do not believe that is the problem with my Sylvania LEDs. The WCCC LEDs that I have slide in perfectly with almost no resistance and they stay in the socket. Since I have three more vehicles to convert, I will be using some more WCCC LED bulbs if the white LEDs look ok in an amber housing. I will order the new bulbs tomorrow and should have them later in the week to see how they fit.
Nelson
I now have some WCCC white LEDs on order to see how they look with an amber lens. The supplier says that they are bright enough to wash out the amber lenses, so this is just an experiment to see what actually happens.
BTW, the red WCCC LEDs have been confirmed a fully functional without any mods on an 87 GT. Just remove the old bulb and drop in the new LED.
Nelson
[This message has been edited by hnthomps (edited 01-23-2018).]
Here is an update on the experimental LED tail/stop/turn lights conversion to LED bulbs in a Mera in both GT and Formula platforms. The 88 Formula used all 1157 (two contact bulbs) for this process. The yellow and red 1157 bulbs from West Coast Cougar Classic dropped right in to the existing sockets without any mods. Much to my surprise, the two 87 GT based Meras have different wiring harnesses and bulbs for the same function. The red lights are all 1157 types for both vehicles. Then the rest of the wiring uses amber 1156 and 1157 bulbs in various colors.
WCCC has the 1157 (two contact) LEDs in amber but do not carry 1156 amber bulbs. Since I know that the Sylvania 1156 bulbs will not fit the existing sockets without modification (and maybe not even then), I decided to try using white 1156 LEDs in place of the 1156 amber bulbs. I was told that the white LEDs may wash out the yellow lenses, but I decided to try them anyway. They arrived yesterday and were installed today. The yellow flasher is much brighter and a somewhat lighter amber/yellow light now, but it is very acceptable to me. The second 87 GT based vehicle now has 1157 red lights that are functional (after installing two LED capable flashers) and I will have to order four more white 1156 LEDs and it should then be fully converted. Three of the Meras have now been basically converted to LEDs for the tail/stop/turn signals.
The last 88 GT based Mera will be converted after painting since it is 150 miles away and I do not know how this vehicle is wired wrt 1156 and 1157 bulbs and what bulb types are used where. I no longer fully trust the light wiring circuits in the maintenance manual to yield the correct information.
Based on my experience you may not be able to predict your LED bulb needs based on the type and model of Fiero that you own without looking at your specific vehicle. I suggest that you pull each individual bulb and verify the type and color at each location. If you need a 1156 amber LED, I believe that substituting a white LED in its place will be satisfactory if you cannot locate a suitable 1156 LED in amber. The LEDs sourced from WCCC are around $15 each delivered which is significantly less that some of the other potential LED sources and appear to be very well made.
Here is an update on the experimental LED tail/stop/turn lights conversion to LED bulbs in a Mera in both GT and Formula platforms. The 88 Formula used all 1157 (two contact bulbs) for this process. The yellow and red 1157 bulbs from West Coast Cougar Classic dropped right in to the existing sockets without any mods. Much to my surprise, the two 87 GT based Meras have different wiring harnesses and bulbs for the same function. The red lights are all 1157 types for both vehicles. Then the rest of the wiring uses amber 1156 and 1157 bulbs in various colors.
WCCC has the 1157 (two contact) LEDs in amber but do not carry 1156 amber bulbs. Since I know that the Sylvania 1156 bulbs will not fit the existing sockets without modification (and maybe not even then), I decided to try using white 1156 LEDs in place of the 1156 amber bulbs. I was told that the white LEDs may wash out the yellow lenses, but I decided to try them anyway. They arrived yesterday and were installed today. The yellow flasher is much brighter and a somewhat lighter amber/yellow light now, but it is very acceptable to me. The second 87 GT based vehicle now has 1157 red lights that are functional (after installing two LED capable flashers) and I will have to order four more white 1156 LEDs and it should then be fully converted. Three of the Meras have now been basically converted to LEDs for the tail/stop/turn signals.
The last 88 GT based Mera will be converted after painting since it is 150 miles away and I do not know how this vehicle is wired wrt 1156 and 1157 bulbs and what bulb types are used where. I no longer fully trust the light wiring circuits in the maintenance manual to yield the correct information.
Based on my experience you may not be able to predict your LED bulb needs based on the type and model of Fiero that you own without looking at your specific vehicle. I suggest that you pull each individual bulb and verify the type and color at each location. If you need a 1156 amber LED, I believe that substituting a white LED in its place will be satisfactory if you cannot locate a suitable 1156 LED in amber. The LEDs sourced from WCCC are around $15 each delivered which is significantly less that some of the other potential LED sources and appear to be very well made.
