Hello again...I have a ball joint job coming up, and I'd like some recommendations, if you please. I'll be replacing all the front ball joints in my 88 Formula very soon, and I see a few different choices on what to buy. The prices range from a mere $ 18 dollars each to as high as $65. The $18 ones are not even gonna be considered. Fiero store has them for around $30 a pop. then theres the highest priced ones at $65 each, distributed by Moog, who I understand provides a much superior product. I'll will gladly pay the price, I'd just like to know if its totally necessary. If the Fiero store sells a durable unit, then I'll go with those. Thank you beforehand to anyone who like to comment.
Hello again...I have a ball joint job coming up, and I'd like some recommendations, if you please. I'll be replacing all the front ball joints in my 88 Formula very soon, and I see a few different choices on what to buy. The prices range from a mere $ 18 dollars each to as high as $65. The $18 ones are not even gonna be considered. Fiero store has them for around $30 a pop. then theres the highest priced ones at $65 each, distributed by Moog, who I understand provides a much superior product. I'll will gladly pay the price, I'd just like to know if its totally necessary. If the Fiero store sells a durable unit, then I'll go with those. Thank you beforehand to anyone who like to comment.
I have also used Rodney's ball joints (stock and lowering) and recommend them. Excellent quality for a reasonable price with quick delivery.
Make sure you get a good ball joint tool if you don't already have one. The large C-Clamp style works best to remove and install them, but isn't cheap. Well worth the money though.
If you have ever considered lowering your car a bit, definitely get Rodney's lowering ball joints. It will be a 2 in 1 operation. I have also used the Fiero Store ones and they worked fine, although they use a lock nut instead of a castle nut. Seems to hold without issue, but I would have preferred the castle nut.
If you have ever considered lowering your car a bit, definitely get Rodney's lowering ball joints.
It depends... If you have an 88, and want to do the Corvette rotor swap, these ball joints will increase the interference with the LCAs and the rotors. In this case, better to use lowering springs or spindles, and stock length ball joints. (Lowering springs will still require you to grind the tips of the LCAs just a bit, but it's no big deal to do.) And yes, Rodney sells both kinds for 88s.
I looked a bit into lowering. Drop spindles (if you can find them) seem to be the way to go; however, if you use lowering ball joints, you have to use the matching end links, I believe.
Hey, Rodney makes a simple Balljoint removal tool that works very well- goes between the BJs and the one that you have loosened the nut on breaks loose; I will warn you, it will make a heck of a bang when it breaks loose! It costs $19.95.
Hey, Rodney makes a simple Balljoint removal tool that works very well- goes between the BJs and the one that you have loosened the nut on breaks loose; I will warn you, it will make a heck of a bang when it breaks loose! It costs $19.95.
That's for separating the steering knuckle from the ball joints. You still need to obtain (buy, rent, etc) the tool to press the ball joint from the lower control arm. Its like a giant C-clamp with sleeves to fit different size ball joints.
By the way, the tool I rented from Autozone didn't have the correct size sleeve for the 88s so I had to improvise one from something I found in the exhaust aisle.
That's for separating the steering knuckle from the ball joints. You still need to obtain (buy, rent, etc) the tool to press the ball joint from the lower control arm. Its like a giant C-clamp with sleeves to fit different size ball joints.
By the way, the tool I rented from Autozone didn't have the correct size sleeve for the 88s so I had to improvise one from something I found in the exhaust aisle.
I bought this kit as well. I think it cost me about $150 (Cdn). Well worth the money.
i have an 88gt. i recently did the 12 inch corvette brake swap, i also used rodney's 1" lowering balljoints, I do not have any clearance issues whatsoever. i also have completely rebuilt the suspension, new upper balljoints, controlr arm bushings and so on. make sure you tack weld and and all "new" balljoints to the lower control arm, they do not fit as tight as the original factory ones
Here's a picture of the ball joint press that we were using.
It turns out that Canadian Tire has a "loan" program where you "buy" the above kit for $229 (plus tax), but if you return it within 72 hours, it doesn't cost a cent to use it. I don't understand why they offer this service (I guess they hope you'll just keep it), but I was quite happy to be able to use the press and then return it within the 72 hour period.
I have Rodney's lowering lower ball joints and his upper ball joints on my 88GT. Haven't had any problems with them.
In my case and a few others the interference fit of the control arm to replacement lower ball joint isn't tight enough and you have to have the ball joint tack welded to the control arm. This is another good reason to use Rodney's as his have a safety snap ring.
I bought the ball joint press from Harbor Freight. It also did not have the correct sleeves to remove the lower ball joints from the 88. Since I was doing bushings too, and already had the arms removed, I found it just as easy to place the arms across my vice, and pound the old ball joints out, and new ball joints in, using a BFH and a socket.
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Originally posted by vette7584:
i have an 88gt. i recently did the 12 inch corvette brake swap, i also used rodney's 1" lowering balljoints, I do not have any clearance issues whatsoever. i also have completely rebuilt the suspension, new upper balljoints, control arm bushings and so on. make sure you tack weld and and all "new" balljoints to the lower control arm, they do not fit as tight as the original factory ones
I'm quite surprised. I lowered mine with springs, and I still had to "massage" the tips of my lower control arms. The lowering balljoints should have exacerbated that situation.
I didn't weld or use the clips. I found that the ball joints fit quite tightly in the lower control arms. The weight of the car would tend to keep them seated, anyway.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-23-2017).]
just pressing in the lower ball joints and letting the weight of the car hold them in works well, when you are not driving it.when you drive, even non aggressively, there will be movement of the ball joint in the control arm if not tack welded in place. over time they will become "looser" as the movement will "open" up the mounting hole more. when i originally rebuilt the front end on my gt, i had regular new ball joints in it. when i put them in, they fit ok, not tight, not loose, so i used the high strength loctite. i drove the car for less than a season. when i decided to replace them with the 1" lowering ball joints, they were very loose in the opening. Rodney recommends welding in the lowering ball joints i got from him, but not sure if he recommends it with stock style ball joints. loose fitting in the "hole" will allow for unwanted movement, and wear, but with all the different combinations that people have on their cars and different parts installed, mods etc.. there of course will be different results
wow, you guys are great ! I knew I could depend on PFF and your comments to have me make the right decision. I'll be going with the Rodney Dickman joints all the way around. Thank you all so much for you comments. Bob
When I had a bad lower ball joint on my 88, I went ahead and ordered upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tierod ends, and the steering rack bushing all from Rodney.
