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Reproduction quarter windows. Color over strength? by Slammed
Started on: 02-24-2016 08:31 PM
Replies: 65 (2499 views)
Last post by: pokeyfiero on 10-18-2016 08:16 PM
Slammed
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Report this Post02-24-2016 08:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am rapidly approaching the day where I will post my first set of reproduction GT quarters windows

The originals had a green tint to them that I can achieve with acrylic. However, PETG windows will be significantly more durable. The whole point of reproducing was to make them as accurate as possible with the best fit and finish. Color does make a difference but is that outweighed by durability?
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Report this Post02-24-2016 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Curtisk1060Click Here to Email Curtisk1060Send a Private Message to Curtisk1060Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I believe most purists would like to have the slight green tint so they could be as accurate as the originals. However, as long as they are formed correctly with the true curve, dot matrix pattern, GT badge, etc. then most people would be OK with the clear or slightly dark tinted option as are out there currently. I believe if you are able to give all three options, they would all be popular. Just my two cents worth. If using a material that has the green tint is not as strong, then definitely I would stay with the clear and/or slight darker tint options. Curtis
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Report this Post02-24-2016 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXOPIEClick Here to visit TXOPIE's HomePageClick Here to Email TXOPIESend a Private Message to TXOPIEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'll 2nd that!
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Report this Post02-24-2016 10:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gwhite18Click Here to Email Gwhite18Send a Private Message to Gwhite18Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would go for tinted. I've seen a few on the board and they look good.
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Report this Post02-24-2016 10:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SteelSend a Private Message to SteelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Maybe an option for for both?

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post02-24-2016 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would say that the contour, fit and dotted paint scheme would be important. If an attempt is made to reproduce it is important to have those windows looking like the OEM units. If you cannot tint with green then perhaps a very pale shade of gray would work

------------------
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Report this Post02-24-2016 10:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I prefer durability. I don't want to have to replace them in a few years because they suffered the same fate as the originals. I like the tinted look, but not green. Green doesn't look good with the white of my current Fiero. Perhaps for MinnGreenGT.
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Report this Post02-24-2016 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

I prefer durability. I don't want to have to replace them in a few years because they suffered the same fate as the originals. I like the tinted look, but not green. Green doesn't look good with the white of my current Fiero. Perhaps for MinnGreenGT.


The original green tint was to match the green tint of the door windows. However, after 25-30 years, most sail panels and door windows on Fieros have had the original tinting faded out from UV exposure. Those with new OEM tint door glass would probably prefer to have matching tint on the sail panels, especially if doing a stock restoration. Others might prefer clear or grey tint, or even very dark tinting.

Personally, I prefer dark tinting, without the matrix pattern, and with no badging.
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Report this Post02-24-2016 11:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for George P WoodClick Here to Email George P WoodSend a Private Message to George P WoodEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
At present time my drivers slide has only a very light crack (hardly noticeable) under the surface.
Passenger side is more or less perfect except for age.
I would probably only consider an exact replacement at this time.
Down the road I might be less fussy.
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Report this Post02-26-2016 01:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm going to be experimenting with some ways to get green tint on the PETG. Because PETG is highly chemical resistant, it is difficult to glue and paint so trying to find a transparent paint that will stick and last could prove difficult. If I can't, I'll probably end up doing both.
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Report this Post02-26-2016 02:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jmbishopClick Here to Email jmbishopSend a Private Message to jmbishopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Petg can be dyed!

I wouldn't expect it to last in the sun, I assume it would eventually bleach out but I'd still like a dyed set.




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Report this Post02-26-2016 03:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No UV resistance is the issue with dying. With that comes the issue of having to clear coat everything adding more cost. RIght now, I am shooting for $300 a set, which is not much more than the ones that are available now. If I have to perfectly clear every window, which would likely include a color sand and buff, that would blow that figure right out of the water.
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Report this Post02-26-2016 12:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I prefer as close to OEM as possible (color and shape).

One has to remember that the current "windows" are old and plastic ages to and as such would become more brittle (I would think) over the years.
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Report this Post02-26-2016 03:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Chris_narfSend a Private Message to Chris_narfEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Right now, my sail panels are fine. However, if one of them broke while removing them to get the car ready for paint, I really wouldn't care if it had the OEM green tint. The ones that are on the car now don't have it (they've been replaced by PO) and it really doesn't bother me. I'd be much more concerned about the dot pattern on the edge of the clear part and how well it matched the original window's contour.

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Report this Post02-27-2016 12:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for viperineClick Here to Email viperineSend a Private Message to viperineEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Any one of us would want the whole package. Perfect reproduction in bulletproof style. But I would venture to say that the purists demanding 100% originality are also the people who garage their precious toys and trailer them to shows. Durability is less a factor to that situation. I say, if you're willing to buy an aftermarket repro, you can live without the intricate green tint. Those folks are more prone to buy NOS parts anyway, even if they are incredibly hard to find. I, myself, just seek an upgrade over the hideous, cracked originals on both of my cars. Nothing lasts forever, and I have been a NOS parts seeker most of my driving life. What do I do, but cringe, when I install a new part like that, anyway? All in all, pick the route that brings you the most customer satisfaction and the profits you deserve for your efforts.
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Report this Post02-28-2016 06:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would go for tinted ones too!
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Report this Post02-29-2016 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If I were to need a set, I would probably want gray tinted, with no "GT" emblems. (Custom emblems might be a selling point, if you could swing it.)
I'm not really in the market, just now. Just throwing out suggestions.
Good luck.
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Slammed
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Report this Post02-29-2016 09:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have heard gray tint a couple times now. Any reason for that?
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Report this Post03-01-2016 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The ones I currently have are a DARK gray. They have the dot matrix around the edges, and no GT emblems.
Just a preference of mine, and an example of what's typically been available from other vendors.

The lighter gray was probably suggested because there are now gray tinted door glass windows available.
As others have said, the restorers and the real purists will probably prefer the light green tint.
The customizers will probably prefer the gray (and dark gray) ones.

Again... I am not requesting these for myself. The ones I have are in good shape, and I also have a spare set.

Here's mine. (Pic borrowed from pgackerman.) These are Fiero Warehouse (I believe by Chris Cook) windows.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-01-2016).]

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Report this Post03-01-2016 06:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for onesexyfieroClick Here to Email onesexyfieroSend a Private Message to onesexyfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I will be in the market for 1/4 windows at some point, and the most important thing to me would be accurate shape. Following the curve of the car, turning in at the door glass as it should. I personally would want stock style dot matrix and logo, but I couldn't care less about if its got the right green tint. My car if far from stock. Personally, I would gladly trade the green tint for increased durability. I would actually prefer a more grey/neutral color.
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Report this Post03-02-2016 07:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Looks like I need to have a few different options. I guess that's the way it is. Not too much more work, I just hate acrylic. If I could completely remove it from my shop I would be tickled pink
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Report this Post03-02-2016 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for busa_poweredClick Here to Email busa_poweredSend a Private Message to busa_poweredEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I remember reading that people bought replacements from tfs or eBay and they were applied with
Double sided tape and they blew off. Some even used some sort of adhesive and the same thing happened.


How will yours be applied?


thanks for making these available slammed

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Report this Post03-02-2016 11:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pcgoldSend a Private Message to pcgoldEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
For me, the more original the better, but that's only because my 88 is as close to stock as can be.

I've got a 73 MGB which is no where near stock and I don't strive for originality for it.
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Report this Post03-02-2016 11:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Thunderstruck GTSend a Private Message to Thunderstruck GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would rather have an accurate reproduction even if I have to sacrifice some durability.
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Report this Post03-02-2016 12:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Slammed:

I have heard gray tint a couple times now. Any reason for that?


Dark gray tint more closely matches tinted (legal spec) door glass (where the OE green tinting has faded out from UV), and the aftermarket reproduction door glass from prosource that was available with gray tint.

Anyone that bought these door glass panels, and then wanted reproduction sail panels, I would expect to want a similar tint on the sail panels, rather than the OE light green tinting.
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Report this Post03-02-2016 01:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by busa_powered:

I remember reading that people bought replacements from tfs or eBay and they were applied with
Double sided tape and they blew off. Some even used some sort of adhesive and the same thing happened.


How will yours be applied?


thanks for making these available slammed


generally, the problem wasn't because of the tape or adhesive medium used, but due to the incorrect ink being used to print the windows. The ink or paint was not of the correct type to bond to the window material, so irregardless of the adhesive used, if the window coating turned loose, the tape or adhesive medium was still stuck to the vehicle.

For plexiglass, the best coating is an acrylic ink. If printing on Lexan or any polycarbonate, a catlized polyester ink is best. The ink must form a mechanical bond with it's substrate and these ink formulations are designed for those particular substrates.

You can see in this photo that the ink peels away from the window and the window finish is still a nice shiny surface. This indicates there was no mechanical bond.


This photo shows the edge where the double side tape was applied. The tape was still on the body of the car, but the paint from the window turned loose and was stuck to the double side tape.


Other areas where the ink turned loose from the window, leaving the tape adhered to the body of the car.


These windows WERE NOT Chris Cook's windows. They were replaced with Chris's windows, using double side tape, and they've had no issues for the past 3 or 4 years.


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Report this Post03-02-2016 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I personally would like a set in the darker gray tint as some above have mentioned. They were not offered this way OEM, but a few reproduction makers have done it, and I really personally like the look.

I agree that offering couple of options would probably be a wise choice. This way people can get what they want, and not balk at a price that is too high. They can have the option of the standard for you mentioned estimate of $300, or the cleared and wet sanded, and cut and buffed version for a higher price.

It would also probably be beneficial to find a way to easily include or exclude the "GT" lettering, as it's probably gonna be a 50/50 split for those that want the lettering or not.

On a side note, if you have access to an OEM pair, get the measurements where the "GT" logo is on the window. The ones from Chris Cook's flat windows are like 2 inches off on the lettering placement.


Here is the darker gray tint on Chris Cook's windows. They are virtually flat, and this set was completely too small for the opening. The only redeeming quality is the tint color, and the nicely reproduced dot matrix pattern on the border:

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 10-17-2016).]

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Report this Post03-02-2016 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am further along than I have talked about simply because I don't want to get ahead of myself. Which is why I am slowly posting about my lenses and only when I have real updates and a timeline I can stick to

The molds for these are done. I have clear windows that are 100% accurate right now. They were a cake walk compared to the tail lights... It is just the screen printing(mostly inks) that I am still working on. I should have good finished examples next week. Possibly as soon as this weekend
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Report this Post03-03-2016 09:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I managed and owned screen printing and sign shops for over 30 years. I got my best results using NazDar inks and highly recommend them.

To test adhesion, pull a 3 inch square print on scrap material and dry it. Then using clear Scotch Tape do a 'snatch' test as if you were doing a hot wax hair removal. If the ink peels, you don't have the right one.
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Report this Post03-03-2016 09:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Thunderstruck GTSend a Private Message to Thunderstruck GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Slammed:

I have clear windows that are 100% accurate right now.


When you say "clear" do you mean crystal clear or clear with original green tint?

[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 03-03-2016).]

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Report this Post03-03-2016 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Thunderstruck GT:


When you say "clear" do you mean crystal clear or clear with original green tint?



Seems pretty "clear" what she meant there.
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Report this Post03-03-2016 01:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IndyellowgtClick Here to Email IndyellowgtSend a Private Message to IndyellowgtEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Can't wait for these! I have 5 GT'S that need one or both!! Totally worth the investment cost to replace...!

Thanks again, Slammed for this amazing opportunity!

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Report this Post03-03-2016 03:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gwhite18Click Here to Email Gwhite18Send a Private Message to Gwhite18Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't mean to derail the thred, but has anyone tried tinting their oem qtr windows with VHT night shades? I've done tail lights before, but I'm worried about ruining the oem qtr windows on my car.
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Report this Post03-03-2016 09:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't know how it would ruin them. Just don't try to take them off to do it.

After messing around with some different options for coloring, I think I am just going to make all of them PETG and dye then clear the green ones. They will cost more, but it looks like the people who want them are in the minority
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Report this Post03-04-2016 02:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JohnWPB:

I personally would like a set in the darker gray tint as some above have mentioned. They were not offered this way OEM, but a few reproduction makers have done it, and I really personally like the look.

I agree that offering couple of options would probably be a wise choice. This way people can get what they want, and not balk at a price that is too high. They can have the option of the standard for you mentioned estimate of $300, or the cleared and wet sanded, and cut and buffed version for a higher price.

It would also probably be beneficial to find a way to easily include or exclude the "GT" lettering, as it's probably gonna be a 50/50 split for those that want the lettering or not.

On a side note, if you have access to an OEM pair, get the measurements where the "GT" logo is on the window. The ones from Chris Cook's flat windows are like 2 inches off on the lettering placement.


Here is the darker gray tint on Chris Cook's windows. They are virtually flat, and this set was completely too small for the opening. The only redeeming quality is the tint color, and the nicely reproduced dot matrix pattern on the border:



I can tell you one thing that contributes to your windows being too small is because you have no drip edge.
Mine are Chris Cooks and I would venture to say if the ones he made fit yours they would have been too big for mine.
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Report this Post03-04-2016 03:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TXGOOD:
I can tell you one thing that contributes to your windows being too small is because you have no drip edge.
Mine are Chris Cooks and I would venture to say if the ones he made fit yours they would have been too big for mine.


No, no. Let's not start that thing up again.
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Report this Post03-04-2016 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:


No, no. Let's not start that thing up again.


?
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Report this Post03-04-2016 06:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TXGOOD:
I can tell you one thing that contributes to your windows being too small is because you have no drip edge.

?


It was a long heated debate in the thread linked to above. In the end the set that I had were indeed cut too small. The replacements that MAACO purchased were a half inch taller as you can see in this photo. The Old one that was too small on top of the replacements. The new ones fit PERFECTLY with the drip rail still removed, and fill the entire window area. The fitment of the second pair was fantastic, all though they are still virtuall flat. They are on the car now, and will stay on the car, till I get a new set from Slammed when they are available



Slammed:
I am sure you know what you are doing, but it is worth mentioning, that doing some research, Chris's windows varied in size quite a bit. A good jig to cut with is essential. As mentioned, I will be buying a set of these from you when they are ready.

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 10-17-2016).]

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Report this Post03-04-2016 07:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The windows are laser cut, they will not vary in size
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Report this Post03-04-2016 07:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pcgoldSend a Private Message to pcgoldEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wanna let us in on a cost?
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