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Electric Power Steering by animal
Started on: 02-12-2015 11:03 AM
Replies: 116 (5071 views)
Last post by: pmbrunelle on 01-25-2017 07:27 PM
mmeyer86gt/gtp
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Report this Post03-03-2015 12:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mmeyer86gt/gtpClick Here to Email mmeyer86gt/gtpSend a Private Message to mmeyer86gt/gtpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
BIG FYI after doing some research on this topic it looks like most units go out around 110k mile mark. just an fyi if you get one from a jyard. when they fail 95% of them had to be towed to the dealership. i dont know why they failed but it is usually while the owner was driving.
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seajai
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Report this Post03-03-2015 12:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for seajaiSend a Private Message to seajaiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
We've got 250,000 miles on our 2005 Equinox (same motor as Vue and Ion) and haven't had any problems with the EPS. (knock in wood)
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Report this Post03-03-2015 03:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jmbishopClick Here to Email jmbishopSend a Private Message to jmbishopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mmeyer86gt/gtp:

BIG FYI after doing some research on this topic it looks like most units go out around 110k mile mark. just an fyi if you get one from a jyard. when they fail 95% of them had to be towed to the dealership. i dont know why they failed but it is usually while the owner was driving.


Its not as big of a deal when the non assisted effort is low to begin with.
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dobey
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Report this Post03-03-2015 09:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mmeyer86gt/gtp:
BIG FYI after doing some research on this topic it looks like most units go out around 110k mile mark. just an fyi if you get one from a jyard. when they fail 95% of them had to be towed to the dealership. i dont know why they failed but it is usually while the owner was driving.


I don't think that's a common issue. I've never come across such complaints in any of my EPS researching either. Did you find some tech bulletins to reference for this issue?
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mmeyer86gt/gtp
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Report this Post03-04-2015 12:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mmeyer86gt/gtpClick Here to Email mmeyer86gt/gtpSend a Private Message to mmeyer86gt/gtpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://media.gm.com/media/u...-power-steering.html

^^^ ion unit is the same as the vue ^^^
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Report this Post03-04-2015 01:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AL68Click Here to Email AL68Send a Private Message to AL68Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The bad columns are the ones with the black plastic control boxes, not the metal ones. I read somewhere
the silver/gold ones are Koyo's own design, the newer black ones were re-designed to GM specs to save money. We had an
Ion one go bad on a car last summer & it was a black one, the only one we have ever had. All that happens is you
loose the power assist.


 
quote
Originally posted by mmeyer86gt/gtp:

http://media.gm.com/media/u...-power-steering.html

^^^ ion unit is the same as the vue ^^^


The Vues use the silver/gold metal box & are not listed in the recall, none of the vehicles in the recall list can be used with
the power assist controller sold by the Ebay guy in Portugal except the Ions but I've looked for them at the junk yards & all
have had the black plastic boxes which won't work. I did not find any black plastic ones in any Vues.

[This message has been edited by AL68 (edited 03-04-2015).]

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Report this Post03-04-2015 10:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mmeyer86gt/gtp:

http://media.gm.com/media/u...-power-steering.html

^^^ ion unit is the same as the vue ^^^


OK. That is nowhere near as bad as you were making it seem. Loss of power assist does not require the vehicle to be towed to the dealer. Your post made it sound like all EPS units will face critical failure around 100K miles and lock the steering in place. That's not at all what happens.
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Report this Post03-16-2015 06:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierostarvinSend a Private Message to FierostarvinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bump for a build thread...........
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Report this Post03-16-2015 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good timing for this thread since I just started to install a G6 EPS ($25 at the Pick n pull). Hopefully people keep posting their updates. I plan on designing an interface between the VSS and the manual speed controller unit that is available online. Unfortunately, it may be a while before I can test anything since the car is going to be out of action for the next few years due to the build I'm doing.
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Report this Post03-17-2015 02:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AL68Click Here to Email AL68Send a Private Message to AL68Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierostarvin:

Bump for a build thread...........


I'm working on it, about half way done . Doing a second one now, found a couple things to change to
make it a little better/easier - it may work with manual transmissions also. Have LOTS of pictures for this one.
Hopefully done by this weekend.

I've been driving it for the past week or two, working great at low speeds at 1/3 turn, not too much assist at
highway speeds, feels like any other sporty car with power steering.

A speed-controlled controller would be nice, the Vue box is capable of super-easy low speed one finger turning
if set to maximum (like some Hondas I've drove) but is WAY to sensitive at highway speeds when set this high.
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Fierostarvin
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Report this Post03-17-2015 08:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierostarvinSend a Private Message to FierostarvinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My package from Portugal came in the mail yesterday. Ready to try this.
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Bob
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Report this Post03-19-2015 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've been working on my setup. I've done some research on the GMLAN system and decided that I will be building a CAN (Controller Area Network). After reading up on the protocol and doing a little hunting, I've found that I can link the VSS output to a CAN controller through an Arduino. Then connect to the CAN network through a CAN network adapter. This will enable the proper speed control for the power steering system. The best part is that you can buy an Arduino shield specifically for that purpose for under $20.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MCP2...&hash=item2ed5f43867

I've already got a pile of Arduinos and am very familiar with programming them. They can be picked up for less than $20 as well.

I'll keep you all posted.
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Report this Post03-19-2015 06:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jmbishopClick Here to Email jmbishopSend a Private Message to jmbishopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You're my hero!
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Report this Post03-19-2015 07:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here's the quick Wiki notes on the CAN bus...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus

This gives a decent overview of the protocol.

EDIT...

For those that want more detail, you should read up on the MCP2515 stand alone CAN controller

http://ww1.microchip.com/do...DeviceDoc/21801d.pdf

[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 03-19-2015).]

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Neils88
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Neils88

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quote
Originally posted by jmbishop:

You're my hero!


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Report this Post03-19-2015 09:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Neils88:

I've been working on my setup. I've done some research on the GMLAN system and decided that I will be building a CAN (Controller Area Network). After reading up on the protocol and doing a little hunting, I've found that I can link the VSS output to a CAN controller through an Arduino. Then connect to the CAN network through a CAN network adapter. This will enable the proper speed control for the power steering system. The best part is that you can buy an Arduino shield specifically for that purpose for under $20.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MCP2...&hash=item2ed5f43867

I've already got a pile of Arduinos and am very familiar with programming them. They can be picked up for less than $20 as well.

I'll keep you all posted.


I thought you were building a stretched kit and doing a swap? What engine/trans are you using?

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Report this Post03-20-2015 06:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Neils88:

Here's the quick Wiki notes on the CAN bus...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus

This gives a decent overview of the protocol.

EDIT...

For those that want more detail, you should read up on the MCP2515 stand alone CAN controller

http://ww1.microchip.com/do...DeviceDoc/21801d.pdf



Sounds like you know what you're getting into, but by the links you posted, I have to wonder...

Just last week I was privy to some of the CAN IDs for GMLAN on a "top secret" program. There are tons of them, and they are not publicly available. I'm guessing with some investigation, you can find what you need, but setting up the GM protocol is not a walk in the park, either. Not only does a module have to send the proper message, it has to send it to the proper modules and receive something back with proper timing.

There is talk that we may take on this program and get involved with GMLAN directly, but that won't be for a while yet.

FWIW, you should look into the app notes NXP has for their CAN drivers. NXP is the world leader for that sort of thing.

I wish you luck, though. Maybe it's not as difficult as I think, or more likely, you've got a better handle on it.

Bob


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Report this Post03-20-2015 08:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RCR:
Sounds like you know what you're getting into, but by the links you posted, I have to wonder...

Just last week I was privy to some of the CAN IDs for GMLAN on a "top secret" program. There are tons of them, and they are not publicly available. I'm guessing with some investigation, you can find what you need, but setting up the GM protocol is not a walk in the park, either. Not only does a module have to send the proper message, it has to send it to the proper modules and receive something back with proper timing.

There is talk that we may take on this program and get involved with GMLAN directly, but that won't be for a while yet.

FWIW, you should look into the app notes NXP has for their CAN drivers. NXP is the world leader for that sort of thing.

I wish you luck, though. Maybe it's not as difficult as I think, or more likely, you've got a better handle on it.

Bob



The GMLAN stuff isn't entirely public, but you can get the full documentation for a pretty penny (a hundred thousand pennies or so to be more accurate). But depending on what engine/trans you are using, you don't need to bother with making some module to integrate with the CAN anyway. Depending on what engine/trans you use, CAN might be useless too. CAN is only definitely on all 2008+ models in the US. 2004-2008 GM models may or may not have CAN depending on several factors. Even with CAN, some of the background sensor pieces are still not CAN, but are Class 2 Serial.

With the right combination of engine/trans (and accompanying OEM electronics) you don't need any such hacks though. You just need to get the wiring right, as the VSS will already be available on the CAN/serial bus, and the EPS controller should be able to get it from there, if it's pulling it off the bus, rather than via a straight PPM signal.
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Report this Post03-20-2015 09:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:


The GMLAN stuff isn't entirely public, but you can get the full documentation for a pretty penny (a hundred thousand pennies or so to be more accurate). But depending on what engine/trans you are using, you don't need to bother with making some module to integrate with the CAN anyway. Depending on what engine/trans you use, CAN might be useless too. CAN is only definitely on all 2008+ models in the US. 2004-2008 GM models may or may not have CAN depending on several factors. Even with CAN, some of the background sensor pieces are still not CAN, but are Class 2 Serial.

With the right combination of engine/trans (and accompanying OEM electronics) you don't need any such hacks though. You just need to get the wiring right, as the VSS will already be available on the CAN/serial bus, and the EPS controller should be able to get it from there, if it's pulling it off the bus, rather than via a straight PPM signal.


Very true...

Bob
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Report this Post03-20-2015 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes I am doing an Aventador build with a stretch. For the timebeing I will just be using the 4.9L engine with Isuzu tranny. I plan to change that eventually to a longitudinal setup, but I plan to be driving the car while I am getting ready for that. (i.e. I'll take my time building that on a separate cradle so I have minimum downtime). As such, I am unlikely to have any immediate access to a full GMLAN setup for the car, hence my plan to build my own small CAN bus in an attempt to communicate with the EPS.

Ultimately I have 4 options...

1. Run the new steering column, but ignore the EPS. Basically the same as the Fiero but with a nice new leather steering wheel.
2. Use a manual controller to send a fixed speed signal.
3. Create a CAN bus compatible with the EPS to feed it the speed signals that it needs for variable control.
4. Ditch the EPS controller and develop my own.

From everything I've read, I believe the 3rd option is doable and will be the first thing I try. If I can't get it to work, I'm out less than $20 and a little bit of time.

Edit: I know I'm skipping discussing issues such as BCM wake up controls, but my research has gone much deeper than the simple documents I posted earlier. I just figure it's easier to get it up and running and tell you how I did it rather than trying to explain how I plan on doing it.

[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 03-20-2015).]

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Report this Post03-20-2015 06:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for seajaiSend a Private Message to seajaiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Was thinking about this the other day..... Some members here have installed the F-body hydraulic rack and and that doesn't have a variable boost. Wouldn't installing a Vue EPS and the Ebay manual controller be the same thing? Just set the boost to an acceptable level and it should work the same as a hydraulic setup. Is a variable assist even needed? .......Just a thought
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Report this Post03-20-2015 09:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for AL68Click Here to Email AL68Send a Private Message to AL68Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by seajai:

Was thinking about this the other day..... Some members here have installed the F-body hydraulic rack and and that doesn't have a variable boost. Wouldn't installing a Vue EPS and the Ebay manual controller be the same thing? Just set the boost to an acceptable level and it should work the same as a hydraulic setup. Is a variable assist even needed? .......Just a thought


I have my Vue eps setup set at about 1/3 turn, at this setting it has a little more assist at low speeds than a 2001 V6 Camaro I drove today. You can spin the steering wheel with two fingers pretty easy.
The steering at 60 feels about the same as the Camaro. Yes, at this setting it feels like a car with regular hydraulic power steering, you really don't need the variable part BUT it would be nice to have more assist
for turning bigger tires at slow/no speed & the Vue box has a lot more assist available.

INSTALL THREAD FINALLY DONE

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/095326.html

[This message has been edited by AL68 (edited 04-05-2015).]

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Report this Post01-13-2017 12:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darbysanClick Here to Email darbysanSend a Private Message to darbysanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm just getting started on an EPS install, and wanted to post some newer info.

First, they are now offering an "automatic" controller on Ebay that adjusts the power output based upon movement of the wheel. I asked the seller if this would be better than the base model on a Fiero, since we have twitchy steering to start with. He said yes, for a street driven car, the Automatic controller should be the preferred controller. For a track driven car, he suggests the one with the adjustment dial. The Automatic controller is only $15 more than the standard one. I've ordered one of these, and will let everyone know how it works. Figure if I don't like it, I can always buy one of the standard ones later.

There is also one being sold that adjusts the output based upon speed. It has a Hall Effect sensor included with the controller, and apparently is speed sensitive. This one is more than double the automatic controller in price, so not sure I would want to go this way. Also not sure where the Hall Sensor is getting it's rotational input.

There has also been some work done on investigating other "brands" of EPS motors. It seems that some of the others ( Prius, Corolla, Versa, etc) can be run without any additional controller necessary. Apparently when they sense no Can Bus info, they revert to a "Limp Home" mode, which is about 1/3 to 1/2 of normal. The VUE apparently cannot run without any input. For more info, here's the link. You might have to sign up to be able to see the pictures, but it's free. (Note: the thread comes up in reverse order, so go to the bottom and read up)

http://www.ffcars.com/forum...o-caster-issues.html


------------------
'87 GT , '00 3800 Series II SC, 4t65e.

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Report this Post01-13-2017 08:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:
But GM and everyone else are moving to full EPS systems in all cars, if they haven't all done so already. It reduces drag on the engine and gives an ever so tiny bump in MPG, and all those tiny MPG bumps add up to meet the CAFE requirements. It's also the only currently sensible way to have a maintenance-free power steering system on hybrid or electric cars.



I noticed this the other day, almost every GM car/truck on the lot made after 2004/05 had EPS. It was odd to see an EPS rack in a SUV (Chevy Equinox). I think that a good, affordable EPS kit using stock GM parts is the next breakthrough. Key word, affordable, $1500 is not affordable, $500 is. The GM EPS motor is very cheap at my local PnP, I pulled one out of a Saturn the other day and it was only $29.

[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 01-13-2017).]

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Report this Post01-13-2017 09:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by qwikgta:
The GM EPS motor is very cheap at my local PnP, I pulled one out of a Saturn the other day and it was only $29.


I was lucky when I picked mine up at the local pick-n-pull. They charged me $25 for the entire steering column (2006 Cobalt), including the leather steering wheel and EPS.
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Report this Post01-15-2017 11:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Neils88:
I was lucky when I picked mine up at the local pick-n-pull. They charged me $25 for the entire steering column (2006 Cobalt), including the leather steering wheel and EPS.


Over the last year or so i'd been looking at picking up a GM EPS just in case someone creates an affordable, easy to install kit. I'm not sure i'm a fan of the EPS location that we have to use now (down by your left shin). When I found this EPS someone had already removed the steering rack, and steering wheel, so all that was left was the EPS and column, I just unbolted the 4 bolts holding it to the chassis and removed it. It was too easy.

On another note, has anyone thought of putting the EPS outside the car, in the spare tire well? Maybe hooking the EPS right to the steering rack, that way its not taking up space at your legs?

Rob
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Report this Post01-15-2017 12:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by qwikgta:

On another note, has anyone thought of putting the EPS outside the car, in the spare tire well? Maybe hooking the EPS right to the steering rack, that way its not taking up space at your legs?

Rob


I've thought of it, but there isn't a huge amount of room. Most of the units are built to mount inside the car, though, aren't they?
I'd love to mount a steering quickener gearbox up to the input side of an EPS unit and use that whole shebang to replace the steering shaft from the column to the rack.
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Report this Post01-15-2017 02:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by qwikgta:
On another note, has anyone thought of putting the EPS outside the car, in the spare tire well? Maybe hooking the EPS right to the steering rack, that way its not taking up space at your legs?


That's why I like the S2000/NSX steering rack. It has the motor built into the rack, and also has a variable ratio cut into the rack itself. Am not sure on how well it fits yet, though. Probably great for cars with widened track, but not sure if it's too wide for stock yet.
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Report this Post01-16-2017 06:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:


That's why I like the S2000/NSX steering rack. It has the motor built into the rack, and also has a variable ratio cut into the rack itself. Am not sure on how well it fits yet, though. Probably great for cars with widened track, but not sure if it's too wide for stock yet.


Dobey, your perspective makes sense. I hope you will know the answer soon. Cuz I've been thinking about adding this idea to my list. Also, I agree with your explanation about LS4 from other thread as well. Thanks for those explanations.
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Report this Post01-16-2017 10:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Neils88:
4. Ditch the EPS controller and develop my own.

Trying to reverse-engineer the subtleties of what some closed-source module is expecting is not my idea of pleasure...

I would consider the DIY option to be easiest, provided the following:
  • Control module is a separate unit from the hardware; motor connections can be easily broken, torque sensor can be easily divorced the control module.
  • Assist motor is a permanent magnet DC brush type; not 3-phase.
  • Torque sensor has analog output.
  • You have the entire EPS system powered on a bench to understand how the torque sensor signals vary with input torque.

Obviously, the choice of EPS donor car should take into account the above requirements preferences.

If anyone wants to work on this, I have a good idea on how to proceed.
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Report this Post01-17-2017 10:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

Trying to reverse-engineer the subtleties of what some closed-source module is expecting is not my idea of pleasure...

I would consider the DIY option to be easiest, provided the following:
  • Control module is a separate unit from the hardware; motor connections can be easily broken, torque sensor can be easily divorced the control module.
  • Assist motor is a permanent magnet DC brush type; not 3-phase.
  • Torque sensor has analog output.
  • You have the entire EPS system powered on a bench to understand how the torque sensor signals vary with input torque.

Obviously, the choice of EPS donor car should take into account the above requirements preferences.

If anyone wants to work on this, I have a good idea on how to proceed.


I'm definitely going to create my own controller (once I get some time to work on it). My EPS column is already installed, with the original controller removed (obviously torque sensors are still mounted to the column). There's actually a good amount of room above the feet/legs. In my preliminary research a while back I found a couple of good differential-inductor-to-analog circuits what are designed specifically for applications like EPS control. Of course, this is all low priority since the column functions fine with manual steering for now and I've got too much else to complete on the car. I will get to it eventually and I'll include my methodology in my build thread.
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Report this Post01-17-2017 11:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do you know what kind of torque sensor the GM EPS uses?

Edit: Since you mention inductor, is it an RVDT?

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 01-17-2017).]

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Report this Post01-18-2017 10:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for darbysanClick Here to Email darbysanSend a Private Message to darbysanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

Do you know what kind of torque sensor the GM EPS uses?

Edit: Since you mention inductor, is it an RVDT?



Not sure if this will answer your question- it's a lot more technical than I am getting on my install. But I did find this article that gives some info that might be of use, or at least maybe point you toward more info.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_111532/article.html

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Report this Post01-18-2017 12:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Oh, I was just curious, I don't really need to know the details of the GM unit myself. My job is in EPS design, so if I wanted one for my Fiero, I would just ask my colleague to custom-program one (from my employer) for me.

In the case where the torque sensor is a separate unit with analog voltage outputs, the potentiometer method of the article provides an easy hack.

For safety reasons, there are normally two torque sensor channels. The control box then compares the two channels, to make sure that they are in agreement with each other. If the channels disagree, then the torque readings cannot be trusted, then presumably the unit would shut down and fall back to plain manual steering (with the added drag of the motor).

So to keep maintain the agreement between the channels, the attenuation from the pot must be equal for both channels; otherwise, this could cause a mismatch, which would trigger a fault.

Since it may be hard to get a high-precision dual-gang pot, it may be easier to use fixed resistors.
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Report this Post01-25-2017 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darbysanClick Here to Email darbysanSend a Private Message to darbysanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Back to the EPS install. Still waiting for a couple of parts to arrive, but doing my pre-planning.

A couple of questions regarding collapse of the steering column.

1) Does the slotting of the lower mounts on the Fiero column aid in the collapse during a collision ( i,e- should I try and retain a slotted configuration on my custom mount I will be fabricating for the lower two bolts?). To me it seems like this would be needed.

2) I'm going to try and keep the collapse feature on the upper steering connector between the motor and the wheel. It looks to me like the portion of the outer Vue column that you insert into the outer Fiero column should not be welded to the fiero column, but instead be able to slip fit ( again for collision- same way the Vue part is slipped into the stock Vue housing). I'm thinking I might use a couple of small dabs of RTV or Hot Glue just to ease installation, but not to impede a collapse should it be necessary.

3) I'm going to also try and maintain a collapse feature on the lower steering connector as well. Just need to wait until I get into it to see how best to accomplish that- use the Fiero shaft or the Vue shaft, and modify the connectors as required for the best fit.

------------------
'87 GT , '00 3800 Series II SC, 4t65e.

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Report this Post01-25-2017 07:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think that the slots are there to facilitate assembly. So presumably, the spaceframe had those front bolts partially threaded in, then the column was inserted from the rear. At this point, the rear of the column was rotated up, and the rear bolts were installed.

Small dabs of hot glue won't hurt anything. Often, between the two sections of a collapsible steering column, the two segments will have a plastic pin. So under normal driving, the plastic keeps things tight, but in an accident, the plastic can break and the column can collapse.

Without this, you would need high dollar splines to accomplish the same thing without undue slack.
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