OK, so Sunday I went out and picked up a few belts to test out the tensioner. I put on the second one and I got a good fit, but I had an issue. The pulley was too small to lift the belt up past the waterpump. So at the waterpump I had the belt rubbing against itself (in opposite directions). I felt this would lead to belt wear so I went back to the parts store and got a few bigger pulleys. Then the issue I had was that the pulley was not able to clear the bolt head on the tensioner. I tried a few different bolts and no joy. So I decided to scratch the whole thing and start again.
This time I used a new Ford 3.8L pulley off a T-Bird. I had good luck finding both the spacer and bolt (correct thread on end and thicker bolt for the main body) in my parts box. Then I had to make a small metal plate to act as a stop for the tensioner (to clock it at the correct position). Big issue with this design is that the new tensioner works clockwise vice the old one that was counter-clockwise, so I had to put it on the other side of the engine. Now it's attached to the front head vice the alt bracket. The belts I had were the wrong size so back to the store for new belts, and after trying a few I found one that fit. What a bunch of work for something so small. If this does not cleat the hood, I'll cut up the damn hood before I do this all over again.
I did save everything from the first try in case I have no other option but to revert back.
[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 02-14-2013).]
I needed another vacuum source and as it turns out I had an extra hole in the intake at the "Removed" canister purge control valve. I built a bracket with a brass vacuum bung and installed it after painting. I found a 180 degree rubber hose and then grabbed a new rubber hose /w end and installed it on the manifold. I am going to find another 180 degree bend rubber hose for the end and instll a small portion of a hard line between the two. This will work for now, but i'll fix it soon.
[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 02-14-2013).]
I used Dayco part#89014. It is a larger Idler pulley that solves this issue as it is 109mm and use a 80" belt. I did get some belt sequel when the RPM dipped below 750 rpm but I fixed that right up by upping the idle with my DHP. I have a large cam so I needed to up it anyway as the idle would not stop hunting until I did. There is also a 131mm pulley Dayco part#131087 that may work even better.
Originally posted by nosrac: I used Dayco part#89014. It is a larger Idler pulley that solves this issue as it is 109mm and use a 80" belt. I did get some belt sequel when the RPM dipped below 750 rpm but I fixed that right up by upping the idle with my DHP. I have a large cam so I needed to up it anyway as the idle would not stop hunting until I did. There is also a 131mm pulley Dayco part#131087 that may work even better.
From what I can tell my issue is with the tensioner bolt hole. its tapered in like a V and the issue I had was that a bolt with a bigger head contacted the pulley, and I could not get a pulley large enough to clear the bolt head. I'm not sure if the pulleys I tried were the numbers you listed. I am 99% sure that what I have now will work, and I if I need another inch or so clearance I can run a 79.5" belt.
I am running a 80.5" belt on it now and I do have the extra flex in the tensioner if needed. A 79" was too small, and if the store had the 79.5" or 80" id have used it, but they only had a 80.5" on the shelf. I'll keep an eye out for a smaller belt and keep this one in the trunk as a back up. I can also clock the tensioner downward another inch or so if I need to, so as it is now I do have some room to flex with. But if it clears the hood as is, I will not touch it again.
My goal with this three day weekend is to tape/loom my harness and then start working on the car to get it ready for the install. I want to run the fuel lines and drop the tank (new pump) with the engine out so I have the extra room.
So the first step in selling the car is making it a roller. So Sunday I spent the day putting the motor in, the suspension on and then getting it back on the ground. Its not the correct time to put the motor in, I still had a few things I needed to do, but if I'm going to sell it, it needs to be able to be moved. I may still work on it from time to time, but I don't plan on putting any more money into it. I do have a lot of parts for it, some will go with it, some will not. If I get it running, i'll ask more for it.
I have to cut a little around the dog bone so that I can clear, but that was the only area that has any interference.
[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 03-11-2013).]
Originally posted by nosrac: So what happened to the she Hulk? I see her in the background jacked up and ready for the trans swap. A F23 could get er done with minimal $$$. A F40 NOT so much.
Yea, I was under it checking out the leaky seal, I was hoping to find the bearing/seal I bought months ago, but after a week of looking for it, I still can't find it. Now I just need to get the wheels back on and get her on the ground. I have a club meeting on Saturday, and I plan to drive her one last time before the new trans and full suspension/brake upgrade. Stay tuned for more info on my HT motorsports tubular control arms, QA1 coil overs, dropped spindles and 13" Wilwood kit.
Nice build. Nice thing about the 3800 NA is it gives good power and excellet fuel efficiency. Question about your exhaust. Where did you get the manifolds coated and how much did it cost. Wondering if and why you removed the factory welded heat shield from the crossover? I would think you could get the whole thing coated as is (maybe I am wrong)? and the bay would be cooler with it? Not being critical, just wondering how you came to the conclusions you did.
Thanks in advance
[This message has been edited by DimeMachine (edited 08-23-2013).]
I got the ceramic coat done local. I have a Powder coat guy about 3 miles from my house. He does all my PC/Ceramic. I removed the heat shield because I wanted a good look at the same time. I may wrap the crossover if it causes a problem, but it looks so damn good as is.
Update. Long overdue, but to be honest I have nothing to report. I have built and installed the axles, but that is about it. I also picked up a few body parts that I will need. Got a new trunk lid to replace the one that came with the car (it had 10 holes in it from different spoilers).
My main reason for not working on it was the fact that I had to drop some serious coin to put a F40 in my other car. Once I got the LS376/F40 all figured out I was driving the car all summer/fall. Plan is to get this one up and running this spring. I need a few 50+ degree days so I can go out and put some time into her.
[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 09-01-2014).]
Thanks for all the great information here! The physical engine swap was straight forward but everything else has been an adventure. Hoping to hear back from Ryan soon and send my ECU in for reprograming. I am still a long way from mounting all the electronics inside. The hoses, O2 sensor and fuel rail stuff is on order.
Decided I could not build from this.
So I am coping many of you and have opted to keep the trunk so there are more parts on order.
Ran into a problem with the throttle hitting the deck lid and that the intake would hit the deck torsion bar. Today I installed a Rodney strut and have a bruised finger to show for removing the torsion bars.
Chris, I cut down the linkage bracket to make it fit under the strut, but i think West Coast Fiero sells a modified bracket to fit. Also, great choice on exhaust. The exhaust part I had for you is similar to the one in the picture. I was only going to use the very end of the bracket (at the motor) and weld on to that. Picture looks like you have the exhaust all figured out. Only things left when I had it were the plumbing (fuel, coolant, A/C) and the finished electrical. At the time, I only had 4-5 wires to finish, and they were the ones on the body of the car (harness to body). If your car is alreay an automatic, then it will be easier. Read about the TCC lockout/lockup because that still needed to be run. One thing I never got to tackle was the transmission lines. If you have an auto car then this will be easy, but my car was a 5 speed so it didnt have the trans cooler lines run. Also, you need to source the trans cooler to trans line ends (at the trans). Again, if your car is an auto this may be an easy thing for you. I'll try to get out there on Thurs-Fri if you good with that.
Thanks Rob! Thursday or Friday would be great. You are always a great help.
I got down to pick and pull today and retrieved another bracket so that is all sorted now.
Had to replace the oil dipstick it was a casualty if installing everything. Installed the spark plugs after turning the engine over. I will be seeing what the options are for wires. The plug next to the alternator has limited space.
The current list of things to finish looks like Mount the coil pack Ignition wires Plumbing fuel - parts on order Coolant system - parts on order Finish the electrical Transmission Pan Transmission lines O2 sensor Exhaust - parts on order Build the dog bone Intake hose - parts on order ECU - sending this week Mount the Electrical inside the car to include the ECU Vacuum piping for everything
That is the list for now I hope I am covering everything.
Thanks Rob I will be looking for that Oil stick on my next trip to the yard, for now it is the stock one. I do plan to you the stock exhaust flange now. The ebay part was not what I had hoped Got the fuel line stuff from Summit, but forgot to order the flaring tool. Guess they will look pretty for a few days. ECU is off to Ryan and the transmission pan is mounted. The rain has slowed me up but I am not in a hurry.
The current list of things to finish looks like Mount the coil pack Ignition wires Plumbing fuel - more parts on order Coolant system Finish the electrical Transmission lines O2 sensor Exhaust - parts on order Build the dog bone Intake hose - parts on order Mount the Electrical inside the car to include the ECU Vacuum piping for everything
Some days are harder then others. Failed on the Dog Bone construction but will try again tomorrow.
There is a better place for the coil pack but I need different wires an to strip all the sound deadening material off the engine compartment bulkheads.
Summit came through with fast shipping on the flaring tool. Could not get the new lines to flare. After some colorful motivational speaking I realized the OEM lines were about half as thick in wall thickness. Seams that a lot of the new stuff makes up for material quality by doubling the wall thickness. Flaring tool worked like a champ on the old lines.
I am stumped. I have a squeal at idle that I thought was the alternator or the belt, but when I remove the oil cap the squeal goes away. The engine runs terrible but the squeal stops. I am sucking a lot of air in through the crank case at Idle. I have replaced the PCV valve and O ring.
Thanks to qwikgta I finally got the car running smoothly after swapping to the throttle body the computer was programmed for.
Chris, when I was setting things up, I was not sure what to do with the PVC. I made that "loop" hose from the top of the intake to the side because one was a source of vacuum and the other needed vacuum. BUT... that may not have been the correct setup. I didn't get that far with the build to see if that was a good idea or not. I do remember that I was looking into all the sources of vacuum and what needed vacuum when I sold it.
The car is running much better. 3rd gear seems to be an issue not sure yet if I will be learning to rebuild a transmission next. I have worked through some of my self-induced bugs (did not install a thermostat for one) and driven the car more I stated to get a P0134 code. Turn out it is another self-induced bug, it seems the 2004 O2 sensor and the 2003 for the Grand Prix are not the same, so if you wire the car for an 03 use an 03 senor.
After much effort in trying to prove otherwise the transmission is toast. The Fiero is back in the air and the tear down starts tomorrow. I was able to get my hands on a transmission rebuilt 3 years ago, the fluid was in good shape with no bad smells. For 300 it is worth a shot.