I recently found a 87 Silver GT with automatic and slightly over 50,000 miles on it in the back of a paint and body shop under a cover. The car was parked several years ago and is now covered inside and out with paint overspray and a ton of body sanding dust. The drivers side window was left down so inside is covered with this dust also. The shop is closing soon so I wanted to see if I could save the car. I went by today and he connected a battery to it to check out the electrical stuff and see if it would turn over. We removed the fuel pump fuse and the engine turned over freely and seemed to have good compression. All electrics work and it has new tires that are now down due to setting so long. Did not put fuel pump fuse back in as we did not want to pump bad gas into the engine, his idea. I figured what the heck it already has bad gas in the engine that has evaporated. It has fresh paint before being parked, we took a rag and some polish to see what it looked like under the dust the couple of places we tried looked great after a minimum of polishing. Interior does not have any rips or tears and is all there. I offered him $800.00 for it as it sits, he said to check with him in a couple of days so he could think it over, he has owned the car for 20 years. I anticipate new battery, new fuel pump and fuel filter immediately and oil and filter change and possibly injectors. I think we turned it over enough today to get oil pumped throughout the engine but I will change oil and filter before turning it over again. With some luck and a couple of days work I can get it looking very good and perhaps running. Does this sound like a viable project and is the price good? I will post some pictures if deal goes through.

Hope that you are able to complete the deal. If you do get it please post a bunch of pics!

It does sound like a good deal. You could disconnect the fuel line and jumper the fuel pump to pump out the old gas then refill it. I had a Fiero that was parked for 3 years. When I got rid of it, it was started and driven 150 miles to Tennessee on the full tank of rank smelling gasoline.

You will probably need to rebuild the front brake calipers since they tend to freeze up when not used for long periods. Also, before using the climate control, remove the resistor and clean the area of any debris that may have fallen in or been carried in by rodents.

When you change the oil, fill up the filter before installing. It may also be a good idea to remove the distributor and using a long extension and I think a 10mm socket, you can drive the oil pump to prime most of the engine with an air wrench.

Pour a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil (or equivalent) in each spark plug hole and turn it over a few times to clear out and take care of any rust that may have accumulated around the piston rings. This will also eliminate a stuck valve.

And yes, fuel pump and injector. I'd suggest a bosch brand pump, lifetime warranty and I heard that any other cheap brand will leave you with the same problem after a year.

Nice find!

Thanks for the tips. Tomorrow is D day for the deal. I fell like he will sell it to me because he has had it so long and seems to want it to go to a good home. I did tell him I would bring it by for him to drive after it is clean and running good, he seemed to like that. I am anxious to get it and start to work on it, first priority is oil and filter and get her running and driving. Good thing I have a very good buffer, air compressor and shop vac. By the way there is a later model Pontiac radio in the trunk with CD player and EQ, he purchased it to install in this car to update sound system to CD player. More to come.

Well I got the car for $ 750.00. Not running, Mice had eaten wires going to cruise control, I will fix that after it is running., Brakes are spongy but not but not seized up. Fuel pump does not run. Changed oil and filter and cranked to motor over for a couple of minutes to get oil circulated, removed air cleaner and sprayed some starter fluid into it and it fired off an ran for a second. Looks like fuel pump is first major obstacle to overcome. I will short it today to see if it does run and give me fuel pressure. Only about 1/4 tank of gas in it now I will use my vacuum sucker to get some out and see what it looks like. I have new fuel filter so I will pump it empty if fuel pump does work. Tires are new but dry rotted due to sitting for 8 years. This owner purchased the car in 1989 according to the title, it has just over 50,000 miles on it but has aged while sitting. Drivers seat needs back cover but rest of the interior is pretty darn good under the dust. Here are a couple of pictures just after we rolled it out of his shop and blew it off with air.










How does it look?

Looks like you stole it. Good save.

Remember, we warned you, they tend to multiply. Now your other 87 has a playmate.

UPDATE: Fuel pump is bad, tested all the electrical circuit for the pump and all were good. Jumped the pump an nothing, will pull tank next week and install the new Delco pump, strainer and wiring harness. I will take tank to my friends radiator shop to have it cleaned out before installing new pump. Engine runs with a shot of starting fluid for a second and sounds good. I feel it will be a good car when I get done with it. I plan to sell it when done, it will be in good condition and CLEAN then. I do need 87 seat drivers side back rest upholstery if any one has it cheap. Any more comments or suggestions??

If you can find a passenger side seat back, it will fit the driver's side and usually will have less wear. Same with the bottom skin, too.

Remember to clean out the front cowling area and around the HVAC ballast resister before using the climate control. Definitely wouldn't want to see your hard work go up in smoke. The engine cooling fan in the upper right corner of the trunk is also a favorite critter abode.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 01-05-2013).]

Nice, it looks a lot like the one i got...but I spent more than i should have on mine. I had to have it though so I didn't really care too much. I spent 1500$ on it and the motor was questionable at the time. Looks like a nice car! good luck with it.
troy

Thanks Fierofool. I will check those places for leaves, mouse nest, etc. today. I plan to pull the tank tomorrow. I have never put it up on 4 jack stands, is there a method to follow so I don't drop the car? My garage has concrete floor that is very slightly downhill. I thought I would do one side until tires clear the floor by about 4 inches then move to the other side then go back and forth until it is up where I need it, down one side at a time a few inches at a time. I will look here for tank removal. Thanks again us Georgia boys have to stick together.
Mike

You can remove the tank with only the rear jacked up. Using a floor jack, go under the cradle cross member and lift it up as high as you can get it. Chock the front wheels on both sides front and rear and set your jack stands under the very front of the cradle where it attaches to the chassis. I really wouldn't recommend supporting on all 4 corners with jack stands. For additional safety, you may want to put a set of ramps or some concrete blocks underneath the rear wheel area.

Thanks again Fierofool, I will do it that way. I have no clue how much fuel is in the tank as the gauge is pegged way above full and pump does not work to empty the tank. I will be dropping the tank by myself and just do not want to end my life by being crushed by a car, I made it 71 years so far and wish to continue on past this fuel pump thing. I do have a small motorcycle hydraulic lift jack that I can use to lower the tank and put it back in. I found a good thread here with pictures to do the job. It still amazes me that amount of information on this forum. Why don't you drive down tomorrow to lend a hand. Thanks again.

EDIT: One more stupid question, will a Fiero fuel tank fit in the passenger seat of a Fiero? I will need to take it to the radiator shop to get it cleaned out and my other Fiero is my sole means of transportation. My wife said if I put it in her Mitsubishi Eclipse I can just keep going and not come back. Thanks again.
Mike

[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 01-06-2013).]

Tell you what, if you'll run over to Claxton and get me about 3 large fruit cakes, I could seriously consider it.

How about 3 little ones from my local Harvey's supermarket? Look again at my last post I have added another question to it.

I think you could probably wrangle it in, especially if you have a sunroof. Small end up under the dash and the big end toward the seat. If not, you can always stuff it into the trunk for a short drive.

Edit: Nah! Gotta be a Claxton's. Of course for the cost of 3 big Claxton fruit cakes, you could pay someone to remove and replace the tank for you.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 01-06-2013).]

Did not consider the sunroof I think that will work. I will update thread as it progresses.
Mike

A door will fit in the passenger seat.. the fuel tank isnt any longer. fuel tank is only about 4ft max.. maybe shorter ,,,

UPDATE: I got the fuel tank out today. This is not the first fuel pump for this car, worm type clamps on everything and instead of disconnecting the wires were cut and patched back together. Duel level sending unit wire broken off the sending unit. Inside of tank looks pretty good just fuel pump globed up and frozen up. I will take it to the radiator shop tomorrow to have it flushed out. Plastic baffle is intact and looks good. Discovered it has a coolant leak some where up front when I raised the rear of the car a couple of feet to remove the tank it made a small puddle of coolant up front. I will wait until I have the tank back in and then use my pressure tester to find the leak, I think it will be lower radiator hose. I am lucky that NAPA has their regional warehouse in Sylvester and I can usually get parts in an hour from them, they list all rubber coolant hoses as in stock at the warehouse. I worked on electrical and electronic equipment for years so I know how to repair the cut wires. I also removed rear tires and rear brake pads look almost new. Hopefully I will have it running good and stopping good by the end of next week. By the way fuel tank fits in front seat with room to spare. More later.

Hey, Mike, while you're into the tank, replace that 5/16 hose with NAPA/s Ethanol Submersible grade hose. Use SAE spec J30R10 submersible fuel line for this critical tank connection. SAE spec J30R10 will last when submerged in gasoline, alcohol and other types of fuel without a problem while std J30R9 hose will not.

There is no hose in the tank, mine has a pulsator that connects the pump to the outlet metal fuel line. I am also replacing it. Will be dropping the tank off tomorrow to get it cleaned out.

since you've got the fuel tank out, i'd clean up and calibrate the sending unit (How To link with pics below). In-accurate gas gauge is Very common with a fiero.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/092117.html

While you have the radiator out, i'd replace the heater core ($30 item). PIA to do later and it's a common replacement item.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000009.html

Good luck with your project.

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 01-10-2013).]

On PaulJK's recommendation of replacing the heater core, if you do decide to do that, remove the old one first and take it along to compare. The ones at Advance Auto Parts aren't as wide as the originals and don't fit. I had to take my original to a radiator shop and have it repaired. Was cheaper, too.

In his first link on the fuel pump, look at Xanath's 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pics. You don't have a short rubber hose on your pump as this one does?

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 01-10-2013).]

Fireofool,
No mine has a square thingy instead of a hose from pump to outlet metal line, look at The Fiero Store fuel components and you will see it. It is a pulsator that quiets the fuel pump, I am replacing it as it is rusty and looks like crap. I will do the pickup cleaning thing while it is out, the wire to it is also disconnected so I will have to solder it back to the sending unit. Tank is at radiator shop for cleaning and lining, will not be ready until mid week. It turns out that the car has been setting for 12 years instead og 8 years. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments.

[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 01-10-2013).]

Well I finally got the fuel tank back from being cleaned and relined took the gut forever nut it looks very good inside and out. Got it back in the car. Car now starts and immediately stalls. Good fuel pressure and fuel pump running as it should. ECM and injector fuses good. I have not been able to use my scanner yet as the guy replaced the radio and left the ALDL connector up under the console where I can not get to it. I will pull the console tomorrow and get the connector back where it belongs and connect the scanner to it. Let me tell you when you are over 70, working with jack stands on cold concrete floor the gas tank was a total pain in the butt, I did learn some things so if there is a next time it will go better. When I first tried to start it would only start with starting fluid and would run on it as long as I kept giving it little squirts, now it starts on its own but stalls after a couple of seconds (fuel pump still running and good fuel pressure but pressure does not drop.) Seems to me that fuel in not getting through the injectors for some reason. I put 5 gallons of fresh fuel in with about 1/3 can of sea foam. Perhaps that will loosen things up overnight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I will post again tomorrow with more info after I get scanner connected. Thanks in advance for tour help and input.
Mike

Try swapping out the MAP sensor to see if that helps. Be sure it's vacuum is connected underneath the sensor.

How about the fuel pump relay? It's located on the left side of the fire wall by the air cleaner housing. Two identical relays next to each other. One is fuel pump and the other is A/C. Try switching them to see what happens.

I will get a MAP sensor and try that. Relay is new and I am getting all correct voltages to the fuel pump, fuel pump is working great. I did notice fuel pressure went to 60psi when I first started out on this quest but quickly went to proper 40psi after only one attempted start so I think pressure regulator is OK. Guess I better get some plenum gaskets also. I will try to get to the ALDL connector today and put scanner on her. Thanks for the suggestions keep them coming. I am concentrating on getting her running, then I have a coolant leak up front to take care of and bleed the brakes. Car is still pretty dirty but places I have cleaned to see the paint look very good. It needs seats covered but rest of interior pretty darn good. I plan to sell it when it is driveable and cleaned up. Again Thanks.
Mike

[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 02-01-2013).]

Sounds like 2 I got that had been sitting some years. TRY to keep it running with some spray "quick start" . If i WILL keep running, Look at the Injectors ! Had to replace all of mine (Gummed up). it ran fine after that. also, Fuel Filter.

I replaced fuel filter while the tank was out. Finally got my scanner connected to it today Showed MAT sensor voltage low and MAP sensor voltage low. Cleared codes and replaced MAT & MAP sensor now no codes. Replaced spark plugs also. old ones looked bad and also looked like no fuel getting to them (completely dry). It does run better for the 2 seconds now. I have to presume that the cold start injector is where it is getting that small amount of fuel to run for the short period of time. Still excellent fuel pressure but does not drop when starting the car. problem is in the fuel log, or injectors causing no fuel to cylinders. I was afraid this would be the case since it sat for 10 years, Guy told me 8 years but last tag on it is 2003. I have excellent oil pressure while it runs and alternator seems ok also. Guess I will bite the bullet and pull the plenum and check voltage to injectors and replace the injectors. Thanks again for the response, keep them coming. This forum is Mecca for Fiero information.
MIKE

Update: When I pulled the plenum the EGR tube fell apart in my hands. I plant to send injectors for cleaning, etc. and do EGR delete on this car. More later.

[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 02-04-2013).]

I doubt you have a coolant leak, I think what happened is that when you jacked the rear of the car up, the coolant leaked from of the coolant reservoir cap under the hood. I thought the same thing when I jacked the rear of my car to drop the tank.

[This message has been edited by LeeR (edited 02-05-2013).]

You may be correct about the coolant leak. We will find out when I get this thing running, probably a week to 10 days away now that I have to wait for injectors being serviced. Thanks for the input.
Mike

You can leave the retainer clips off to make a little easier to wiggle the injectors around. They aren't needed since the injectors are captured between the manifold and rail. Go to a drugstore where they don't know you and get you some KY Jelly and rub on the O-rings or if you have some synthetic brake slider grease, use that. Vaseline or petroleum grease isn't good for the rubber.

BTW, do you want those drip rails? I won't ship them. Too difficult to package.

Fierofool,

Thanks for the reply I will use the brake grease on them. I was told back in the past that Vaseline was ok since it was petroleum based. Yes I would like to have the drip rails. When the injectors get back from cleaning you can come down and put the motor back together and bring them with you. LOL Again thanks for the reply.
Mike

NM

[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 02-06-2013).]

Newest news. Injectors are on their way back. Four were completely clogged up and the other two did not flow very much fuel. They should be here first of nest week and hopefully I can get it running next week. Let this be a lesson to those that find a Fiero that has been sitting for 10 years. So far I have replace fuel pump, Fuel filter, pulsator, Oil and Oil filter, spark plugs, MAP sensor, MAT sensor, had fuel tank cleaned and coated inside, fuel gauge sending unit (gauge still does not work), battery, brake fluid and bleed brakes, thermostat, thermostat cap and radiator cap and of course injectors cleaned. Transmission is still an unknown but I have changed trans fluid and filter, may have a coolant leak to be fixed, heater blower motor is LOUD so it may need replacing. AC is also an unknown, it has not been converted to 134 and may be a disaster. I am looking for some Firebird seats for it as drivers side seat is in bad condition and passenger side is very dirty. Trunk release does not work but I have a new switch to try for that. This car will be for sales after I get it running, going and stopping good, at a reasonable price. It will still be a sort of project car but it only has 50333 miles on it and should be good to go. Paint is cleaning up good, tail lights are perfect so it will look good. More after I get injectors in it.

[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 02-13-2013).]

Got the injectors today !! Found the best way to install them. Put the 3 rear ones (rear of the car) into the fuel log with the clips, just start the front ones (front of the car ) into the intake manifold holes. You can see to line up the rear ones with the intake holes and just start them, you can then reach over the fuel log and wiggle and guide the front of the fuel log and guide those into the fuel log holes. Then just some pressure straight down on the fuel log and everything goes in place. That part is done now to put everything else in place and see if the ***** will start, gross your fingers with me.

Latest update: Got it started yesterday but seem to have one cylinder not running and massive coolant leak up front on right side around firewall area, probably heater hose. Did try it in reverse and drive and it moved under it's own power so transmission may be OK. Will find running and leak problems next week. I am getting no remarks or feedback so I will probably stop posting on this until I have car drivable. Thanks again for the replies and help.
Mike

EDIT: Found the problem with running, some dumb ass got 2 plug wires crossed in the distributor cap, starts and runs GOOD now. Find and repair the coolant leak and it may be ready for a short test drive.

[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 02-22-2013).]