This really inspires me. I heard the base paint doesn't even need to be in that great of a shape, as long as it's 225grit, or finer. - Can anybody confirm, or deny that?
For the people who wrapped a Fiero, how many sq feet of material did you use? What parts worked out really well, and where did you struggle? How long did it take you? Did you take any classes, or just try?
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08:59 PM
PFF
System Bot
3084me Member
Posts: 1035 From: Bucks County, PA Registered: Apr 2005
Some of the stuff that I saw was appx 54" wide by 13 feet long. I'm guessing that would go a long way on something the size of a Fiero.
Some of the stuff that I've seen has a 4-6 year "rating" for outdoor use and 8-10 year lifespan for indoor uses. Kind of neat.. I've seen the white and Gold and Chrome and I see they have carbon fiber patterns as well. (My Jaguar XJS would look pretty cool in Chrome).
I'm just wondering how it actually stays on the car (mainly around the edges or where it's trimmed or wrapped around etc)
(I would give it a shot on one of my "garage queens" but i'm not sure I'd want it on my Daily Driver.
But hey... Maybe I can change the my E-39 M-Sport to some "blazing carbon fiber red" and be the talk of the town!
[This message has been edited by 3084me (edited 06-04-2012).]
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10:35 PM
LZeitgeist Member
Posts: 5662 From: Raleigh, NC, U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2000
I have no better idea than you on how many linear feet you'll need (probably figure it out with a quick estimate with a tape measure around the car), but once it's applied, you need to use a commercial-grade heat gun to heat it up to approx. 270 degrees to 'set' the adhesive on the 3M Air Release vinyl.
------------------ Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@aol.com
1988 Fiero Formula - Automoda convertible repainted PPG Ferrari 'Giallo Modena' yellow
I am wrapping my 86 GT. I have done the hood already but planon changine colors. For Fathers Day my wife is buying me a roll of 60"x20ft roll. Hopefully that will do most of the car. Here are the pics when I did my hood
the colors fade... D/F of hot rod did his 67-68 impala and it was like 3500.oo with the el cheapo flames on the sides.. race cars use it, and buses, ect but they change them after a few months and in case of a race car.. sometimes after one race.. A fiero isn't all that big of a car. and the sq ft of panels isn't all that much.. I'd paint it.. unless you are adding crazy graphics to it.. a qt. of color should cover a fiero after you mix it with basemaker/reducer .. painting it won't cost much..
the colors fade... D/F of hot rod did his 67-68 impala and it was like 3500.oo with the el cheapo flames on the sides.. race cars use it, and buses, ect but they change them after a few months and in case of a race car.. sometimes after one race.. A fiero isn't all that big of a car. and the sq ft of panels isn't all that much.. I'd paint it.. unless you are adding crazy graphics to it.. a qt. of color should cover a fiero after you mix it with basemaker/reducer .. painting it won't cost much..
You can get vinyl that will fade fast. the 3m Vinyl is high quality. Also they say it's only good for 3-5 yrs, longer if it is garaged. I started out painting, got tired of the hassle. The vinyl is so much easier to apply. The $3500 range is if you pay for the labor to install it. It is VERY labor intensive but if you do it yourself it's not expensive. My vinyl will be $134 for the roll shipped from Amazon. Can't paint that cheap. Also, usually most colors are flat colors that don't really show fading that well. Even the gloss textures are not truely gloss. The black on my hood is technically gloss, it looks satin instead. It's been doing really good since I installed it. I consider mine a test for the other color I plan on after Fathers Day
Mine cost 2000.00 to install they charged me for 186 ft I didn’t pay attention if that was liner or square feet. After 5 months and 5000 miles I have no problems with the wrap. The car is my DD I have been very pleased with the resistance to road hazards so far.
[This message has been edited by SSN669chris (edited 06-05-2012).]
Mine cost 2000.00 to install they charged me for 186 ft I din't pay attention if that was liner or square feet. After 5 months and 5000 miles I have no problems with the wrap. The car is my DD I have been very pleased with the resistand to road hazards so far.
absolutely, love the durability of it. especially since I park in a parking deck every day and my more expensive car has taken abuse from other parked cars. Als, I can change the body panels on the Fiero and easily re-cover the panels without re-painting and you would never tell. Almost like a Plasti-dip all over the car but with a lot more color options.
With a full wrap, doing it completely seamless, I figure 53' of a 60" roll = 265 square feet.
Can you do it with less material? Yes. Can you do it with less material and not have seams or splices? No.
Agreed, you have to have extra to do it without seems. Also have to be good at stretching it. There is an art to it. I learned that on my hood. The more you do the better you get.
I'm guessin because I paint myself I truly don't understand the concept of this over painting a car unless you're looking to do some illegal activities and have a clean getaway.
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05:35 PM
PFF
System Bot
3084me Member
Posts: 1035 From: Bucks County, PA Registered: Apr 2005
Agreed, you have to have extra to do it without seems. Also have to be good at stretching it. There is an art to it. I learned that on my hood. The more you do the better you get.
Just curious. Do you "wrap it" around the panel edges , door edges, hood edge etc? Or is it trimmed flush? It seems it would peel around the edges at some point. (But if it was "wrapped around", I guess it could come un-done??)
Do you have pics of the door edges or anywhere that it's trimmed?
It's really pretty neat, Ive seen it as stated above, on race cars, busses etc. I'd love to try it. I also used to paint cars so I would of course lean in that direction - but the wrap is interesting to me.
my dad use to do this professionally and my god what a bubble nightmare..... even on small stuff it sucked but to do a whole hood... or an entire car! if you do it props to you because i would go insane
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08:10 PM
Austrian Import Member
Posts: 3919 From: Monterey, CA Registered: Feb 2007
With a full wrap, doing it completely seamless, I figure 53' of a 60" roll = 265 square feet.
Can you do it with less material? Yes. Can you do it with less material and not have seams or splices? No.
Thank you, that's what I was looking for. Yes, I don't want to do seams/splices. It'll last longer and look better. Yes, I'm fully aware vinyl isn't as durable as paint, but it's so much cheaper if DIY, also I think it's a fun driveway project. Can't really paint a car in a driveway in Suburbia.
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08:54 PM
Austrian Import Member
Posts: 3919 From: Monterey, CA Registered: Feb 2007
my dad use to do this professionally and my god what a bubble nightmare..... even on small stuff it sucked but to do a whole hood... or an entire car! if you do it props to you because i would go insane
The 3M version has microscopic holes in the material so there aren't any bubbles anymore. This is not your dad's vinyl.
Also a wrap is the cheapest version to do a good satin look. It's really hard/expensive to do satin finishes with paint. (i.e.: No clear coat allowed, no sanding/buffing allowed)
No holes in the vinyl, the adhesive has a pattern of lines or grooves that the air gets out through
This is what it looks like with 3M Comply adhesive version 1
Edit: I just looked at the link you posted in your original post, and that material is really good stuff, and that is a really good price (if it truly is free shipping)
[This message has been edited by 85sliverGT (edited 06-05-2012).]
Yea, the bubbles are MUCH easier to remove with new Vinyl. Basically, you can seperate a large bubble into small ones and push them out with your fingers or squeegy
Yes, the vinyl USUALLY wraps around the edge of the door or hood or fender panel. It helps with peeling but it really doesn't peel unless it's picked at. The adhesive is super strong and can be pulled and layed multiple times to get the proper stretch. Once it has set on the car for a couple days the adhesive become slightly stronger and harder to pull off. You clean around the under edge to help get all the dirty off the back of the panel on the doors, hood and trunk to help with it getting snagged. But really, I haven't had mine want to lift or come off since late in the day on the first day I laid it. After that it just stuck on.
BUT to release it, you use a heat gun to essentially moisen the adhesive again and it pulls right off without left over residue.
I have wrapped my entire fiero in 3m 1080 matte black. It is labor intensive and a gt can wrapped with 40x5 foot piece. All of this depends on how well you can do this. Obviously hood or trunk flubs will cost you dearly and literally. For those who have not done this and are thinking this is cheaper/better than painting, know this: this goes on the car like spandex on a fat girl- this will not hide anything and if your clear is coming off, this will not be your solution as the adhesive is enough to pull the clear off. As for the corners, yes you will stretch it, but all of this will lift and return to its normal state (flat as a board) with out the use 94 primer. It's a chemical you brush on places where the surface isn't flat. It's clear and can be washed off if you ever remove the vinyl.
[This message has been edited by jreigner (edited 06-07-2012).]
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06:53 PM
Jun 7th, 2012
Austrian Import Member
Posts: 3919 From: Monterey, CA Registered: Feb 2007
I have wrapped my entire fiero in 3m 1080 matte black. It is labor intensive and a gt can wrapped with 40x5 foot piece. All of this depends on how well you can do this. Obviously hood or trunk flubs will cost you dearly and literally. For those who have not done this and are thinking this is cheaper/better than painting, know this: this goes on the car like spandex on a fat girl- this will hide anything and if your clear is coming off, this will not be your solution as the adhesive is enough to pull the clear off. As for the corners, yes you will stretch it, but all of this will lift and return to its normal state (flat as a board) with out the use 94 primer. It's a chemical you brush on places where the surface isn't flat. It's clear and can be washed off if you ever remove it.
Cool, I never knew there was a primer for going around corners.
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03:49 AM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
ok.. I got a question.. tho it doesn't really affect a fiero.. being a plastic car.. I'd think that on a metal vehicle.. the weave in the adhecive/glue would allow the humid air behind the vinyl and inbetween the vehicle and wrap.. doing one or two things or both causing rust under the rap, and the humid air lifting(bubbling) the wrap. it seem that ANY breach in the paint at any point on the vehicle would cause rapid rusting and rot to the idem you wrapped.. may not be a factor in sunny dry cali. or the west with the dry air..
ok.. I got a question.. tho it doesn't really affect a fiero.. being a plastic car.. I'd think that on a metal vehicle.. the weave in the adhecive/glue would allow the humid air behind the vinyl and inbetween the vehicle and wrap.. doing one or two things or both causing rust under the rap, and the humid air lifting(bubbling) the wrap. it seem that ANY breach in the paint at any point on the vehicle would cause rapid rusting and rot to the idem you wrapped.. may not be a factor in sunny dry cali. or the west with the dry air..
No, I wouldn't think so because anywhere you would scratch the vinyl would not create a pocket to hold water, it would sinmply scratch but stay adhered to the body(maybe not scratching the paint under). I have never heard of any rust being caused by the material. But I have seen a Video on Youtube somewhere, where a driver was hit in the door and it dented the door. He pulled off the scuffed vinyl and revealed it did not scratch the paint under the vinyl. Seems pretty strong covering and almost protective. Not to say it cannot be penatrated but it's less likely to scratch or chip than regular paint. Another advantage in my book.
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09:36 AM
E.Furgal Member
Posts: 11708 From: LAND OF CONFUSION Registered: Mar 2012
Originally posted by E.Furgal: so a nice hot summer day and a hyway romp.. and it might be flapp'n in the wind like a 20y/o vinyl top thats ripped off..
No, it hasn't done that to me. It doesn't pull off that easily. It is still quite a pull to get it off. It's been on my Hood in 96 degree Interstate driving and hasn't moved a bit. It doesn't come off unless you want it to.
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09:49 AM
E.Furgal Member
Posts: 11708 From: LAND OF CONFUSION Registered: Mar 2012
No, I wouldn't think so because anywhere you would scratch the vinyl would not create a pocket to hold water, it would sinmply scratch but stay adhered to the body(maybe not scratching the paint under). I have never heard of any rust being caused by the material. But I have seen a Video on Youtube somewhere, where a driver was hit in the door and it dented the door. He pulled off the scuffed vinyl and revealed it did not scratch the paint under the vinyl. Seems pretty strong covering and almost protective. Not to say it cannot be penatrated but it's less likely to scratch or chip than regular paint. Another advantage in my book.
not every wrap will be over a perfect paint, with no rock chips, or scratchs/etc.. most I'll bet are going over tired worn paint as a cheap way to renew the vehicle.. and I see this as a big by huge rust issue.. if the paint under it.. is not 100%
Originally posted by E.Furgal: not every wrap will be over a perfect paint, with no rock chips, or scratchs/etc.. most I'll bet are going over tired worn paint as a cheap way to renew the vehicle.. and I see this as a big by huge rust issue.. if the paint under it.. is not 100%
You should search "Auto Wrap" or "Vinyl wrap" on Youtube and check it out. A lot of high end cars are wrapped to retain the original paint underneith for resale value. Don't knock it till you look at it and try it. Yes, I am using it to cover a poor paint job, but not everyone uses it for that. There are a lot of Matte Vinyls used as apposed to matte paint because matte paint is MUCH harder to keep clean and keep oil spots(greasy or oily hands) etc off it. Vinyl is easily wiped clean.
Personally I would say, as long as there is not rust there already, there won't be any after it's covered. If anything it might keep it from rusting. Also, to actually adhere the vinyl, the surface needs to be prepped and smooth or it will show all the imperfections, so covering rust to begin with shouldn't happen because you would see it straight through the vinyl and would look like crap. Essentially it's a shrink wrap for cars, like wire shrink wrap and it shows all imperfections like sand or chips in the paint undernieth.
If you tried it, you might like it. Before I wrapped the hood I ordered a 12"x12" piece to see how it worked and what it was made like. That was $12 shipped. It's really cool stuff and you can actually ball up the material and pull it apart all wrinkled- add some heat from the heat gun and it will return back smooth and straight.
You should search "Auto Wrap" or "Vinyl wrap" on Youtube and check it out. A lot of high end cars are wrapped to retain the original paint underneith for resale value. Don't knock it till you look at it and try it. Yes, I am using it to cover a poor paint job, but not everyone uses it for that. There are a lot of Matte Vinyls used as apposed to matte paint because matte paint is MUCH harder to keep clean and keep oil spots(greasy or oily hands) etc off it. Vinyl is easily wiped clean.
Personally I would say, as long as there is not rust there already, there won't be any after it's covered. If anything it might keep it from rusting. Also, to actually adhere the vinyl, the surface needs to be prepped and smooth or it will show all the imperfections, so covering rust to begin with shouldn't happen because you would see it straight through the vinyl and would look like crap. Essentially it's a shrink wrap for cars, like wire shrink wrap and it shows all imperfections like sand or chips in the paint undernieth.
If you tried it, you might like it. Before I wrapped the hood I ordered a 12"x12" piece to see how it worked and what it was made like. That was $12 shipped. It's really cool stuff and you can actually ball up the material and pull it apart all wrinkled- add some heat from the heat gun and it will return back smooth and straight.
oh I want to try it.. but want to make sure it will not cause rust to form inder it.. I have a low low miles monte SS from dale earnhardt chevy in newton,nc that I'd love to wrap in the bud #3 colors jr drove or the blue and yellow #3 ,
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05:08 PM
PFF
System Bot
LZeitgeist Member
Posts: 5662 From: Raleigh, NC, U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2000
The 3M vinyl does not trap moisture underneath it. On the contrary, if it's wet underneath, it won't adhere to begin with.
Standard vinyl is applied wet, then the application fluid is squeegeed out from underneath it. This provides a lubricative effect to help evacuate the air from beneath the vinyl.
The air-release adhesive has channels to allow the air to be squeegeed out from underneath, therefore there is no need for application fluid - in fact, using fluid negates the effect. The 3M adhesive closes out the channels under pressure, then the heat finalizes the procedure. It can still be peeled off, but it takes effort. I've used this on many vehicles, including a couple dozen police vehicles with digitally-printed reflective vinyl graphics, so I know it works.
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11:19 PM
Jun 8th, 2012
E.Furgal Member
Posts: 11708 From: LAND OF CONFUSION Registered: Mar 2012
The 3M vinyl does not trap moisture underneath it. On the contrary, if it's wet underneath, it won't adhere to begin with.
Standard vinyl is applied wet, then the application fluid is squeegeed out from underneath it. This provides a lubricative effect to help evacuate the air from beneath the vinyl.
The air-release adhesive has channels to allow the air to be squeegeed out from underneath, therefore there is no need for application fluid - in fact, using fluid negates the effect. The 3M adhesive closes out the channels under pressure, then the heat finalizes the procedure. It can still be peeled off, but it takes effort. I've used this on many vehicles, including a couple dozen police vehicles with digitally-printed reflective vinyl graphics, so I know it works.
what is the likelyness of ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ taking the original paint with it..?
Good to know....TKS. I see it won't hide any imperfections in the paint but how about a little orange peel from an amatuer paint job?
Depending upon the color or design of the vinyl you are using you can make some imperfections less eye sore'ish.
Example: If you have a Matte Black color vinyl, it will reflect a lot of the inperfections under the paint, but if you have a pattern like a Carbon Fiber pattern, it will cover the Orange peal and a lot of the small imperfections with the pattern.
I have a chip on my hood and the vinyl helped hide it a little, but if you are looking for it, you can find it. The vinyl will sinnk or suck into or around most imperfections. Not saying you will notice, but just like a dirty paint job with dust in it, you can run your hands over it and feel it, the vinyl will show the same.
The benfit for me to wrap my Fiero, is its a solid covering that will give my car a VERY Clean look, I can pull it off and change it or add to it, I can make body changes and re-cover the panels without having to pay so much for a repaint - i.e. hood scoops, or side scoops etc...
Personally, I am gonna smooth all the imperfections on my body before I cover the remaining panels. I was gonna do that when I was gonna paint the body, I don't see this as anything different than painting in the respect that the body should be prepped properly. You definately should clean the body to remove durt and grease to asure adheasion ------------------ Car Thread: 86 GT https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...ML/085541.html
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 06-08-2012).]
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08:48 AM
E.Furgal Member
Posts: 11708 From: LAND OF CONFUSION Registered: Mar 2012
As long as you are not covering a Macco paint job, i.e. a poorly prepped paint job. It won't pull paint.
haha.. no. just factory g.m. paint from 1986.. how do they do light holes... like on the fiero the turn signal lights are set back deeper than the hole is wide/tall same with the monte SS let the wrap go as far as it will and add to it?
haha.. no. just factory g.m. paint from 1986.. how do they do light holes... like on the fiero the turn signal lights are set back deeper than the hole is wide/tall same with the monte SS let the wrap go as far as it will and add to it?
Ah, that's a eay one, let me show you here. Watch how they fill in the light cavity here. http://youtu.be/XI26GvKsrOE Bascially heat, push in as far as needed, stick the edges and put a small slice in the center and then stick the rest and cut away extra
