Long time no post. I finally finished and installed my reupholstered door panels. As many of you know it wasnt my original idea. Here's my question: Does anybody know where I might be able to find some prefabricated fiberglass door panels? I know PISA offers their Euro panels but I could have sworn I saw somebody offering a simple fiberglass panel for the Fiero?
Any help and/or direction would be great!
Thanks
SK
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 11-27-2011).]
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09:08 AM
PFF
System Bot
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8872 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
I'm looking for something more "plain jane". The PISA panels are very plain and I could probably work with those but as I mentioned, I thought I saw a simple flat fiberglass panel available...
I can make flat panel fiberglass, but shipping things that large is a pain & can get expensive. Greyhound may help with that if you have a station near you where you can pick them up. But you can go to Home Depot & get wallboard for bathrooms & cut it to fit. It's smooth on one side so contact adhesive (for upholstery) sticks to it well. They're also more or less waterproof so they don't warp. Still make sure you have the vapor barrier between it & the door. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Why not just make up some simple panels from sheet aluminum like a race car. It could be made to look pretty cool. Ive seen a lot of show cars this past summer where they covered front under hood fenders with aluminum diamond plate. I saw one trunk entirely done in it. I had the Pisa door panels on my Ferrari kit, made a door pull and covered the bottom half with carpet material.
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04:21 PM
jaybug56 Member
Posts: 379 From: Cleveland Tenneessee Registered: Jan 2010
Those panels would require extensive modification - for what I want to do. hmmmmm... Do you think he would sell just the panels?
I did get a response from PISA and they said that the panels, which are ABS plastic, would have to have all the holes cut. But the pair are 225.00 (not sure if that was upholstered or not).
Theyre raw material. I painted the part not carpeted with textured paint to look like vinyl. If I remember, you might have to cut out for the door handle. I also put a strip of black door edge protector across the top by the glass to give it a finished look.
I would just do rogergarrison's above idea of sheet metal as you're going to probably have to cut out any holes/etc anyways from anything you buy, plus you'll save A LOT of money. Cover in a thin material of choice, or paint it.
I would like to go back to my original design idea for the door panel. Metal would work but I'm not a metal fabricator by any means... I can work with the ABS and fiberglass. With a good ABS or fiberglass panel as a base - I just might be able to pull it off this time without all the warping or the screaming or the yelling or the crying...
Theyre raw material. I painted the part not carpeted with textured paint to look like vinyl. If I remember, you might have to cut out for the door handle. I also put a strip of black door edge protector across the top by the glass to give it a finished look.
The panels have been sanded and re-coated with the primer. The next step is to apply multiple coats of the SEM texture coat. There is some difference in the appearance of the texture depending upon how you apply the spray such as distance, number of coats etc. you will have to experiment to see what works for you. Here is a panel after multiple coats have been applied: The texture coat dries flat black and it is almost impossible to see the pattern once dry. You can't really see it in this close up: Once the texture is dry I applied the first layer of the SEM color coat. I'm using the Landau Black which is a matte black. You can now begin to see the texture:
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 11-28-2011).]
OH YES! I remember that from your build. I bought some of the texture paint. The nozzle popped off when I first tried it and blew paint all over the backyard... LOL
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06:58 PM
Nov 29th, 2011
TXGOOD Member
Posts: 5410 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Feb 2006
Those panels look great! You wouldn't by chance have template with measurements you can post? I'm more comfortable working with glass and the template would really make things easier.
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09:04 AM
TXGOOD Member
Posts: 5410 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Feb 2006
Sorry, I don`t have a template, as I did those a few years ago. I just basically took the measurements off of a stock panel. I like the way you can lay fiberglass in different bends etc. but for one I don`t have the patience to make moulds and 2nd I like being able to staple the vinyl to the wood panel I`m covering because I have not had much luck with adhesive holding on fiberlass in hot weather.
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09:32 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
I like being able to staple the vinyl to the wood panel I`m covering because I have not had much luck with adhesive holding on fiberlass in hot weather.
Use DAP Weldwood Contact Cement (ONLY Original yellow) It holds carpet , vinyl, leather on anything permanently. One thing ppl dont do is let it almost completely dry before sticking it down. I use it for everything from replaceing carpet and headliners, to putting on vinyl and convertible tops. I even use it to upholster boat seats.
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05:34 PM
Nov 30th, 2011
TXGOOD Member
Posts: 5410 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Feb 2006
I have used the Weldwood yellow and I have seen it`s sticking power as I have used it to lay laminate. I think the problem I was creating was that I actually needed two or three coats on the vinyl itself as the first coat seems to just soak into the vinyl.
I noticed you cut the top of the door panel and then attached to the wood template you cut out. How secure were the two pieces after you attached them with the rivets?
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 11-30-2011).]
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04:50 PM
PFF
System Bot
TXGOOD Member
Posts: 5410 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Feb 2006
Well, once you install the spring clips in the holes they are pretty sturdy. I used small washers behind the old upper door portion to keep the back of the rivet from digging into the stock pressboard. I uphostered the plywood part and painted the upper original curved part.
Actually, now that I think about it, I installed the rivets from the backside and pulled them tight because with the foam installed on the board that stuck up past the back of the rivet and allowed me to upholster the plywood first.
[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 11-30-2011).]
Makes sense. I'm hoping to have a template laid out this weekend. My only concern is the top part of the panel that rests into the "channel". I can work with glass pretty well and create compound curves, etc... but sometimes I get a mental block and that area has me baffled on how to start...
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07:19 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
I always make cardboard mockups of stuff im making, whether its fiberglass, plastic or metal. Lot easier to trim off or tape pieces back on till you have what you want.