OK, I have searched the forum and searched in the FSM....and just can't find it.

'88GT, manual....my E-brakes work fine and are adjusted correctly.....but even when they are fully released the brake warning light stays on. Just exactly where is the switch and how is it adjusted? Or where in the FSM is it discussed?

TIA,
Larry

If you scroll down to my post in this thread www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives...110502-2-106739.html you'll see a picture of how the ebrake handle turns the light switch on and off. You'll see that there's a set of copper contacts on the upper left-most part of the mechanism. One of the contacts has a curled end which is supposed to get mechanically pushed upwards by the rounded cam on the end of the handle as you rotate the handle downwards. This breaks the contact between the stationary part of the switch and the rounded contact. There's a good chance that either you're not pushing the handle down far enough, or the switch needs to be adjusted a little so it works properly. It's just screwed on with one screw and it pivots.

First to this...
Release handle while helper pulls on parking brake cables.

If this helps then more work on parking brake...

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

Thanks for making this thread Larry, I have the same issue on my 87GT. It annoys to me to the point that I avoid using the e-brake whenever possible, cause it'll continue chiming after being released until I drive a quarter mile or so. Although my brake definitely needs adjustment cause in my opinion it definitely doesn't clamp the brakes hard enough.

And see my cave,
parking brake in brake section
chime unit in electrical section

Ratchet section of the parking brake level needs Cable tension for returning the it and shut off the lamp/chime.
chime unit can be bad too...

Tom,

Don't stop using your E-brake: that is how your rear brakes adjust....and if you do not use it, the cables tend to seize and have to be replaced.

I am going to try a set of the springs identified here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/117508.html

Since there is a $40 minimum, I ordered two sets. Let me know if you want them.

Larry

quote Originally posted by L67: Video...

Hate to pop your bubble... E brake in above video is hosed...

1. Level in video is pulled way too far up. If level reach more then 1/2, 2/3 at max, of travel then mean something is wrong w/ parking brake system. (See step 8 in quote below.) Cables adjustment is too loose, Bad cables, bad calipers, too much pad clearance, or all of these.

When level has to be pulled out of spec then likely cable can't pull on ratchet and chime/bulb can stay on. The switch is trying to tell you something is wrong w/ parking brake.

Most people think Level will force the ratchet section to meet the switch... They are wrong... Ratchet need cable tension to work and shut off switch.

If pulling cable can turn off switch then ebrake subsystem needs works and do not adjust the switch.

See step 4 in quote below.

2. Adjusting switch on F'd up system is a very bad idea... When your system works right, adjusting switch in that video will stop bulb/chime being on when ebrake is active. Chime/bulb needs to be on when level is pull to one click of the ratchet. Pulling level just 1 click can drag the pads when ebrake works.

Again See step 8 in quote below.

quote 4. Check parking brake hand lever for full release. • Turn ignition on. • "BRAKE" warning lamp should be off. If "BRAKE" warning lamp is still on, and the hand lever is completely released, pull downward on the front parking brake cable to remove slack from pedal(level) assembly. 8. Operate parking brake several times to check adjustments. After cable adjustment, the parking brake hand lever should not travel more than 8 ratchet clicks. Rear wheels should not rotate forward when hand lever is applied 5 to 8 ratchet clicks. Source: 1987 Fiero SM, PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT, page 5B8-3

Download: http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-06-2011).]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the ebrake system I used in the video. The later model calipers are rebuilt, the pads are new, and the cable has been purposely adjusted to where I prefer it. There is constant tension on the cable at all times, the car holds solid on inclines, and passed an inspection only last week. My cables simply are not adjusted to the spec advised in the earlier service manual. Pulling the handle an additional two notches will not damage the system. The sensor fault I referenced is not an anomaly I've experienced only on my car alone. It's been a common occurrence for me to find that copper hook on the switch has been bent out of range of the lobe on the handle, so the alarm will not cut off even when the ratchet section is correctly supposed to be meeting the switch. What I had was a faulty switch, which I repaired rather than replace. It isn't possible to adjust the copper contact enough so that the chime disengages prematurely, there isn't enough range. So no need to worry about some one adjusting it too far and leaving their brake engaged, even a notch. Engagement is not linear, the handle has to travel upwards a good deal before the first notch is engaged. My chime comes on before the handle reaches the first notch.

Here is a picture of a NOS replacement switch. Notice how steeply the contact travels down parallel to the switch side. The Fiero rolled off the factory floor with a light and chime that disengaged earlier than I set mine to in the video.



You concerns are valid, and good of you to post them. My car is in very healthy working order, however. I've been working with both system of ebrake for eight years, and I'm very familiar with both.

L67,

Thank you so very much for that video. I will look at that if it ever gets light here.

+ to you

Larry

quote Originally posted by L67: There is absolutely nothing wrong with the ebrake system I used in the video...

Fine but pulling that far means problem for most owners...

No, pulling level a click or three more won't damage Ebrake. The GM spec was to give you some room for wearing and pad clearance to stop system from activating. If system is at or near to top of travel then back off 3-4 clicks... You shouldn't adjust level to give no room for pad clearance and wear.

Pad clearance problem is a pain, worse problem will sneak up on you, and rebuilt calipers means Rebuild Pistons. Many rebuilder have iffy quantity at best... Bad rebuilt caliper out of box is common. When good, rebuilt ones have same problem with piston corrosion etc...

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-06-2011).]