so i am a first timer trying to paint my car back to factory blue. I've been doing alot of research on the forum and on the internet and have been by a few paint supply houses and picked their brains a bit as well. This weekend i wanted to start blocking it out. I bought some ppg jp202 high build primer (recommended by the paint store) and the activator. Having never done this, i didn't know what to expect. All i have to go by is pictures on the forum and "how to" videos on youtube. It was kinda suprising to me how thick this stuff sprayed and how little came out of the gun when i was trying to shoot it. When finished, the texture was VERY rough, almost like a course sand paper but not as abbrasive. Is this what a highbuild primer should feel like after it is applied? Aslo, i've been readin where some people add a "reducer" to their primer...what is the reason for doing this? All the guy at the paint store said i would need to do is mix (4) parts primer to (1) part activator. He said nothing about a reduer. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

We have a couple of experts that will be along shortly, so do wait for their comments, but check to see that the tip in your sprayer is the correct one for the primer you are using. It would be a really good idea if you could find someone who has painted a car before to look over your shoulder. This is more an art than a science, and experience is really important.

this is one of those questions that usually starts a whole hoopla. I'm still working on my paint job, no time lately but i asked about primer in the spring. you can read it while waiting for the others to chime in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/116471.html

My advice from doing this all summer when i could find some spare time, use quality stuff like the PPG Epoxy primer to seal it up, then DuPont high build over it to smooth it all out before your color. But first, sand down to the original color/primer to get the best results. It sucks big time but doing it twice would suck more. If you put paint on the new paint it may not stick and wont last as long. the prep work is 90% of your paint jobs result.

[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 09-19-2011).]

You are working on a type of resin finish. You do not need to use a building type primer. You do not need epoxy. Those are used to repair metal work. All building primer will do is create hours of unnecessary sanding. Finish your body panel down to 400 grit. Spray a regular primer on it and then go over it with Auto Glaze. Sand again down to 400 and then 600 for good measure. Spray primer again. Sand with 600 grit.

Now you can put on the finish of your choice. It is that simple.

Arn

I use epoxy primer on everything and have good results. Make sure that your primer is mixed correctly and that you are using the right size tip. I use a HVLP gun with a 1.8 tip for primer. I always give the primer a sanding and wipe it down with Dupont 3812S reducer prior to color. Ditto on what was said about getting help. Painting takes practice and the experience to adjust your gun correctly for proper finish.

the "roughness of the primer", could be a few things. wrong tip, too high air pressure, fan setting too wide, spraying too far away from the panel, not enough overlap on you paint . I would finish sand with no more than 400. any smoother than that & you risk losing "Adhesion." before you start spraying on the car, pull out an old fender, hood , whatever, & Practice on that first, (You'll save yourself alot of work.)

High build primers are generally used to help smooth out areas that have been sanded due to body repair. If you are spraying over a good original surface just so there is primer there it's unnecessary and creates a lot more work. If you repaired the hood, roof or rear deck then it can be helpful is sprayed right. I expect that reducer is needed in your case since you are having a bit of trouble with the primer mix. Make sure that the primer is mixed in the can before you pour it out. You don't need reducer with this primer but if it's spraying too heavy for you your gun tip may not be large enough and the reducer becomes necessary to thin it out. The reducer does just that....it 'reduces' the thickness so it's sprayable with your equipment. The paint guy didn't sell you the wrong stuff....he just didn't let you know that with certain equipment you need the reducer. As for sanding the primer that's on the car now you can sand it down until it's smooth and it'll be fine. When you spray the primer mixed with the reducer you'll have a much smoother finish when it's dry and it'll be easier to sand but it won't fill as much. If you are spraying primer just to have primer on the car I'd suggest a primer/sealer over the old finish as long as the old finish is in good shape. If it's cracked at all, peeling-falling off or any other issue then you need to remove the bad paint. If you are using the primer-surfacer to fill cracks in the original paint you'll have the same cracking with the new paint. Bad paint needs to be removed. If you have a good original finish then the primer-sealer would be a good product after you finish with the primer-surfacer. The sealer isn't sanded....you paint over that.

Hope this helps. The tech sheet below gives you all the info you need for that particular primer. Whenever you get some paint products that you aren't familiar with I highly suggest these tech sheets....they help out quite a bit.

http://www.bapspaint.com/do...e/Shopline/JP202.pdf

Good luck!

Mark

I always add 10% reducer to my high build primer. also your gun mite not be setup right.

quote Originally posted by labbe001: so i am a first timer trying to paint my car back to factory blue. I've been doing alot of research on the forum and on the internet and have been by a few paint supply houses and picked their brains a bit as well. This weekend i wanted to start blocking it out. I bought some ppg jp202 high build primer (recommended by the paint store) and the activator. Having never done this, i didn't know what to expect. All i have to go by is pictures on the forum and "how to" videos on youtube. It was kinda suprising to me how thick this stuff sprayed and how little came out of the gun when i was trying to shoot it. When finished, the texture was VERY rough, almost like a course sand paper but not as abbrasive. Is this what a highbuild primer should feel like after it is applied? Aslo, i've been readin where some people add a "reducer" to their primer...what is the reason for doing this? All the guy at the paint store said i would need to do is mix (4) parts primer to (1) part activator. He said nothing about a reduer. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

You probably don't have a big enough tip on the gun. You can use reducer to help with that. Also, adjust the volume all the way out, &/or the spray narrower. Maybe more air pressure, but you can't put the primer on too dry or it won't adhere as well. You have to overlap each pass 50%. As long as you're putting it on wet you'll be fine, it'll just require more blocking to get it smooth. You're only doing the small areas that you repaired with this primer, right?
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

You just don't need high build or epoxy on a plastic car body.

The high build requires greatly increased sanding. The epoxy requires a proper respirator/filter system.

Standard primer just needs a regular dust mask, and it will go on finer.

The professionals doing body repair on steel car bodies use allot of stuff the home sprayer just doesn't need.

Do your body prep correctly and completely, and your primer should go on smooth. If you have it too thick a viscosity of course you'll get orange peel. It needs to be thinned with good reducer, not Varsol, and it needs to go on thin.

Remember, there are products used in body repair shops that really do need proper ventilation, and proper breathing apparatus. I have used urethane, which is relatively unforgiving, and laquer which is very forgiving and repairable for the home sprayer. For instance, if you use Duplicolor you are going to have a higher success rate than if you use a "professional" product like Dupont produces. (which is good paint BTW)

Arn

thanks guys for all the good info...i can see i have ALOT of sanding ahead of me...i only have a few minor repairs on the hood so there was apparantly no need for me to spray both sides w/ the primer i just bought a palm sander so looks like it will get good and broken in....

here is the gun i have

http://www.lowes.com/pd_301...ogId=10051&langId=-1

not real sure what size tip it has in it but just from what you guys are saying, i'm sure it's WAY too small for what i was doing w/ it. i set the gun up according to the user guide i received w/ it....

quote Originally posted by Gall757: It would be a really good idea if you could find someone who has painted a car before to look over your shoulder. This is more an art than a science, and experience is really important.

any volunteers that are close to the Birmingham area?

Also, someone mentioned using "Regular" Primer...is a "regular primer" one that's just not a high build primer?

[This message has been edited by labbe001 (edited 09-19-2011).]

What your using is a 2 part primer...you add a catalyst/hardener to it to make it cure. EXACT measurements of each part is very important. You do need a larger tip opening/needle than you do for the paint. Some can be reduced slightly...but only with the recommended reducer.

'Regular' primer is the typical one used by do-it-yourselfers or old school painters (like myself). Its lacquer based and thins with plain lacquer thinner. The lacquer primer I use is also high build, but it sprays out almost like a coat of paint...pretty smooth. Most times I have seen 2 part primers, it did have a rougher texture to it. If I primer a new part to prep it for paint, it goes on smooth enough for me to just lightly scuff it to paint it.

The biggest problems I have between the two types are:

1/ I can leave a gun full of lacquer primer permanently, so its available anytime I need it. 2 part has to be used within a few hours before it hardens.

2/ I can sand it in 20 minutes and recoat it again over and over as much as needed. 2 part Ive seen/ used took hours to dry hard enough to sand and still seems to gum up sandpaper. Mine sands easily to a fine powder.

3/ Like said, all I need is a dust mask if that. 2 part requires a full face respirator mask.

4/ My primer is dry just a foot away from work so theres no residue floating around to harden on another vehicle. 2 part stays wet and floats all over, even to neighbors house and hardens on anything it lands on.

5/ 2 part is great for a metal car thats going to set out in weather while its being worked on...keeps it from rerusting. My primer absorbs moisture, so it needs kept dry and painted within a relatively short period. Thats no problem for me, because I only do one job at a time from start to completion.

6/ Mine costs 1/3 of 2 part.

The only real purpose of primer is to allow paint to adhere to bare metal/ body filler or to fill minor imperfections (like sanding scratches). Its not a 'glue' to make paint stick.

quote Originally posted by Arns85GT: You just don't need high build or epoxy on a plastic car body.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: The only real purpose of primer is to allow paint to adhere to bare metal/ body filler or to fill minor imperfections (like sanding scratches). Its not a 'glue' to make paint stick.

I'll say this again: The purpose of primer is to make the paint stick (ADHERE & STICK is the SAME thing Roger - are you hearing yourself?). Epoxy primer makes the paint stick BETTER than any other primer. This is true whether the body is made out of metal, fiberglass, or plastic.
As for the high-build Arn, it's very useful over areas where you've done repair work to block out imperfections/waves.
EDIT: Also, never sand with anything finner than 400 wet (320 if using dry paper) before painting - no matter what primer you're using.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 09-19-2011).]

quote Originally posted by labbe001: any volunteers that are close to the Birmingham area?

I'm 30min inside georgia on I-20

your goin to get a million answers on the "right way" to paint just practice on junk parts first

[This message has been edited by eightysixfiero (edited 09-19-2011).]

And mask, mask, mask! Where you have overlapping joints in the paper, tape the joints down because mist will find its way two feet away through laps and gaps. After you spray pull the mask, any place where you got overspray wipe with lacquer thinner quickly to get it off. Once it cures in place it's only removable by mechanical means, and that typically will damage whatever surface the overspray landed on. Remember, it's better to spend an extra four or five hours masking than an extra fifteen or twenty hours cleaning and refinishing.

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: I'll say this again: The purpose of primer is to make the paint stick (ADHERE & STICK is the SAME thing Roger - are you hearing yourself?). Epoxy primer makes the paint stick BETTER than any other primer. This is true whether the body is made out of metal, fiberglass, or plastic. As for the high-build Arn, it's very useful over areas where you've done repair work to block out imperfections/waves. EDIT: Also, never sand with anything finner than 400 wet (320 if using dry paper) before painting - no matter what primer you're using. ~ Paul

Im hearing myself. It DOES allow paint to stick/adhere to bare metal and fillers. For a sanded car with paint still on it, it does nothing. Read that as 'if you sand a cars paint and dont sand thru to metal (or raw material), primer is a waste of time and effort. I can take a car with a nice paint job, say for a color change and never put a drop of primer on it at all and paint right over it. You also have to primer bare body fillers to fill their imperfections. I paint a lot of plastic body parts (ie/ Porsche, Mercedes, Jag, BMW) that are new and the instructions that come with them specifically tell you NOT to primer the part...just sand, spray base and clearcoat. Again, the primers biggest purpose is to give you some thick, fast drying material to fill slight imperfections like scratches, nicks and slight waves. Its called Primer/ Surfacer, not paint glue. What I will give you is that epoxy primer probably does grip tighter than regular primer. I know catalyzed overspray stuff is next to impossible to get off. If I spray some catalyzed paint with the door open, I have to steelwool my vans windows where its parked out in the back parking lot. Ive never seen primer with a label saying it makes paint stick/ adhere. If you got something in writing, thats not a claim by its manufacturer, saying primer makes your paint stick to the car please post it.

I do agree with 320/400 final sanding....never finer. I always dry sand prior to paint except on those panels im blending the basecolor on. Then I wet sand with 1000.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 09-21-2011).]

so now i've sprayed my highbuild and blocked it out using 180 dry....could i shoot the ppg epoxy over this or do i need to sand to 320 dry/400 wet before shooting epoxy primer? also, if i'm recalling, i case base clear right on top of the epoxy primer correct? in other words, if i have the body straight enough, i don't have to sand the epoxy primer...correct?

quote Originally posted by labbe001: so now i've sprayed my highbuild and blocked it out using 180 dry....could i shoot the ppg epoxy over this or do i need to sand to 320 dry/400 wet before shooting epoxy primer? also, if i'm recalling, i case base clear right on top of the epoxy primer correct? in other words, if i have the body straight enough, i don't have to sand the epoxy primer...correct?

You're good. As long as you've sanded any/all scratches rougher than 180 DRY, you can prime with the PPG DP epoxy primer & shoot the paint in 30 minutes without sanding. If you do run across deeper scratches showing in the base, allow it to dry for 30 minutes or so & water sand it with 400 in those spots to smooth it out. Then more base & clear it.
Are you having fun yet?
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: You're good. As long as you've sanded any/all scratches rougher than 180 DRY, you can prime with the PPG DP epoxy primer & shoot the paint in 30 minutes without sanding. If you do run across deeper scratches showing in the base, allow it to dry for 30 minutes or so & water sand it with 400 in those spots to smooth it out. Then more base & clear it. Are you having fun yet? ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Custom Fiberglass Parts

Definately...i really enjoy learning about the whole process of auto paint and body......i believe i would enjoy it as a hobby by itself and not just doing it on my fieros.... got me a nice little set up.....i built a spray booth under my carport w/ fans, 2 heaters, fluorescent lights and the works....wish i could post a pic but do not have digital camera.....

so is the main advantage of epoxy primer the fact that it adheres so well to surfaces as compared to other primers?
Edit to ask: I am using a Kobalt HVLP gun w/ a 1.5 tip.....The tech sheet for the paint i'm going to use says that PSI at the air cap for a HVLP should = 7 to 10 PSI and conventional should be 45 to 55 at gun...
does this mean that i should set the gauge on the inlet hose to my gun at 7 to 10 PSI? I tried this and the paint shoots out WAY too thick....should i just back off on the amount of material coming out or should i turn up the PSI.....i've been trying different things but just cant get it right...............i'm using PPG Shopline JB basecoat

[This message has been edited by labbe001 (edited 11-06-2011).]

The biggest advantages of epoxy are it's adhesion & flexibility. Not having to sand it is also a plus.
I'm not familiar with the gun you're using. My suggestion is to do a practice panel on a scrap piece Until you get it to spray like you need it to. Start with a medium pattern & adjust the air pressure & paint volume until it's close, then try adjusting the pattern.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

I cant say ya or nay about flexibility of 2 part, but would assume it is. Lacquer dries pretty rigid.

I can see spraying primer on a small part and painting right over it, but not a whole vehicle. The purpose of the primer is to allow you to fix imperfections so it needs sanded. If you want to spray something on the whole thing with no body work, use one of the various types of sealer made for that. They cost 1/2 of what 2 part primer does and they dont need sanded at all and they go on a lot smoother, just like a coat of paint.

When you spray any primer, you want it glossy on the surface, then dry flat. If you spray it and its dull as you put it on, its not going to stick (or adhere). I really only use a high build when Ive done extensive body work that needs a lot of blocking.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I cant say ya or nay about flexibility of 2 part, but would assume it is. Lacquer dries pretty rigid. I can see spraying primer on a small part and painting right over it, but not a whole vehicle. The purpose of the primer is to allow you to fix imperfections so it needs sanded. If you want to spray something on the whole thing with no body work, use one of the various types of sealer made for that. They cost 1/2 of what 2 part primer does and they dont need sanded at all and they go on a lot smoother, just like a coat of paint. When you spray any primer, you want it glossy on the surface, then dry flat. If you spray it and its dull as you put it on, its not going to stick (or adhere). I really only use a high build when Ive done extensive body work that needs a lot of blocking.

Me too (on using the hi-build).
The PPG epoxy primer is the best sealer out there, & it does help with adhesion. On my BMW (after doing the mods & bodywork & blocking those areas with the hi-build), I DA'd the whole car with 180, shot the epoxy & shot the paint. You get better adhesion using 180 (dry), better adhesion with the epoxy, & better adhesion of the paint to the primer. If the epoxy is smooth you save an entire step of sanding the whole car again. If you use lacquer primer you HAVE to sand it - & you can't shoot paint directly over 180 grit scratches without primer. On the more upscale jobs I do (which is most of them) I sand the epoxy with 400 wet for a really smooth surface. Some folks will tell you that you CAN'T sand the epoxy but I do. (Seems there are a lot of folks in the industry that say you CAN'T do some of the things that I do.)
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

quote Originally posted by DLCLK87GT: this is one of those questions that usually starts a whole hoopla.

Told ya.
I'm doing a panel off paint job. In a nut shell what i did was to wipe everything down with cleaner to remove any wax and oils, then sanded down the clear and new color and new primer with a DA (Dual Action) air sander. I stopped when I got down to the original color/primer and then finished it off wet sanding by hand with 220/320…lots and lots of sanding. I’m not sure you will be getting the best results using a palm sander, those are typically not for auto body work. But anyway, once sanded down and all body work done (needed some repairs around the sunroof and rear quarter) I again wiped with cleaner then tack cloths. I shot the PPG primer with the 1.8 tip and it came out like you said, very chunky. Turned out the strainer at the bottom of the spray cup was too thin and restricting the paint flow so you may want to remove it when spraying primer if yours has one. Then I shot high build over the repairs and let it dry for several days. Now I’m back to sanding, as mentioned above, I’m wet sanding the PPG and high build primer with 400. That’s about as far as I got. Before you shoot the color & clear, make sure it’s very very clean. Blow with air gun, wipe down, blow, wipe…and if you did wet sand make sure it’s dry or that little drip of water will show up at the worst time. It’s a real learning experience isn’t it! And my car looked horrible before, so I can only make it look better…right? 

so i used the epoxy sealer and shot my base....i whiped everything down before hand and made sure it was surgical room clean....after shooting my base, low and behold, i have (2) blemishes in it about the size of a very small pimple....ugh....they are really almost unnoticable but i just can't stand knowing they are there....so what are my options in getting these out before clear coat? or could these be worked out after clear coating? thanks

quote Originally posted by labbe001: so i used the epoxy sealer and shot my base....i whiped everything down before hand and made sure it was surgical room clean....after shooting my base, low and behold, i have (2) blemishes in it

My first shoot with the primer on my fender came out great, i stood back and a gnat appeared out of nowhere and crashed right in the middle of it! I was so mad…I primed another coat over him figured I’d sand him off later.

quote Originally posted by labbe001: i have (2) blemishes in it about the size of a very small pimple....ugh....they are really almost unnoticable but i just can't stand knowing they are there....so what are my options in getting these out before clear coat? or could these be worked out after clear coating? thanks

I think some minor issues will disappear under the clear but that’s better answered by one of the pros. Maybe a picture of it or better description would help them answer. Also I think you have a limited time between base and clear don’t you?

quote Originally posted by labbe001: so i used the epoxy sealer and shot my base....i whiped everything down before hand and made sure it was surgical room clean....after shooting my base, low and behold, i have (2) blemishes in it about the size of a very small pimple....ugh....they are really almost unnoticable but i just can't stand knowing they are there....so what are my options in getting these out before clear coat? or could these be worked out after clear coating? thanks

Not really. Thats why you sand the primer, to find and fix those flaws. Once its in the color coat your stuck with it. Put enough clear on it and you can sand it out so you cant feel it, but it will still be visible. Clear is transparent . To fix it, you need to mask off that panel, sand out the flaw, scuff the whole panel, recolor with base and reclear it. I just scratched a hood on a newer Lincoln I painted yesterday, about the size of a dime. I sanded it down, reprimed the spot, masked off the hood area, reordered more paint and clear. So it will be repainted tommorrow. No way around it.

Wow, lots of good info...

Nother question, what kind of primer would you use on the bumpers or body pannels if the paint/primer was compleatly removed (bare plastic)? I am asking because I had to repair my rear bumper (had a tear in the belt line) when I got it. Doing the repair, I had to remove the paint/primer to glue the damaged plastic (used some 2-part adhesive the paint shop recommended). I also randed the entire bumper down because it was loaded w/ spider web cracks...

I temporaraly sprayed the bumper w/ rattle can bumper-black paint. It has been this way for years, I just wanted it all one color while I was working on other parts of the car. I know I will have to sand off the rattle-can paint to get a proper paint job; but would I then prime it with epoxy primer or is there something special I have to do first?

these are REALLY small spots that you really can't see unless you hold a light to it and look at it from the side...so i couldn't just scuff them down w/ say 400grit, shoot more base and then clear the whole thing?

quote Originally posted by labbe001: these are REALLY small spots that you really can't see unless you hold a light to it and look at it from the side...so i couldn't just scuff them down w/ say 400grit, shoot more base and then clear the whole thing?

That's it. Just sand with 400 wet to smooth it out & shoot some more base over those spots.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

Id prob sort of agree on the urathan bumpers to use 2 part primer. Lacquer primer is somewhat brittle when dry and will crack easier than something else. Dont bother with flex agent...its worthless. The biggest trick on bendable parts is have the thinnest layer possible. On new flexible bumpers and parts, I use special waterbase primer designed specificly for that....if the new part already doesnt have it on (most new do). That is latex based and will bend and twist everywhere without cracking. Thats what factory flexible parts have.

thank you guys for all the really great info.....it's been more than helpful while learning the artform of auto body and paint......

so i've been doing a panel off paint job....last night i did the rear fast back clip.....i thought it turned out perfect until i noticed i bug had got'n trapped in the paint b/t my base coat and clear.....i figure i will have to tape this section off, sand it, spray new base and then clear it.....my question is, when i remove the tape, will there not be a seam in the clear coat where the tape was (where the new clear meets the previously sprayed clear)? would i just need to wet sand the blend this? any tips would be greatly appreciated


edit to ask: Also, how long is it recommended before wet sanding and buffing newly sprayed paint job?

[This message has been edited by labbe001 (edited 11-13-2011).]

quote Originally posted by labbe001: i figure i will have to tape this section off, sand it, spray new base and then clear it.....my question is, when i remove the tape, will there not be a seam in the clear coat where the tape was (where the new clear meets the previously sprayed clear)? would i just need to wet sand the blend this?

I am sure someone else will chime in; but I think you want to repaint the entire pannel to an edge or fade it in. Using tape wil leave a line that would be visable after...

quote Originally posted by labbe001: thank you guys for all the really great info.....it's been more than helpful while learning the artform of auto body and paint...... so i've been doing a panel off paint job....last night i did the rear fast back clip.....i thought it turned out perfect until i noticed i bug had got'n trapped in the paint b/t my base coat and clear.....i figure i will have to tape this section off, sand it, spray new base and then clear it.....my question is, when i remove the tape, will there not be a seam in the clear coat where the tape was (where the new clear meets the previously sprayed clear)? would i just need to wet sand the blend this? any tips would be greatly appreciated edit to ask: Also, how long is it recommended before wet sanding and buffing newly sprayed paint job?

This is one of those things that a lot of folks say can't be done...
You have to sand the entire area with 1000 wet - out beyond where you're blending. Shoot the base, & when you clear use a blending agent to melt in the clear. Shoot a light coat of the blender at the edge of the clear before & after each clear coat. Take each clear coat out beyond the last. When everything dries, wet sand with 1000 & then with 2000 & buff. If you melted in the clear correctly, you'll never be able to tell where you blended.
EDIT: You can usually sand & buff the next day on most urethane paint.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 11-14-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: This is one of those things that a lot of folks say can't be done... You have to sand the entire area with 1000 wet - out beyond where you're blending. Shoot the base, & when you clear use a blending agent to melt in the clear. Shoot a light coat of the blender at the edge of the clear before & after each clear coat. Take each clear coat out beyond the last. When everything dries, wet sand with 1000 & then with 2000 & buff. If you melted in the clear correctly, you'll never be able to tell where you blended. EDIT: You can usually sand & buff the next day on most urethane paint. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Custom Fiberglass Parts

I would almost consider painting the entire rear clip over. The amount of surface-area the rear clip has is not that great and you would be assured of a perfect finish; rather then trying to blend it. After all, unless your a professional, if may be noticable if you don't do it right. Then your back to square-one again... Then again, no single pannel on the Fiero is really all that large and I guess the rear clip is prolly the part that would take the most time to prep and do over...

If you redo the whole panel, all you have to do is scuff it all, sand the flaw out, spray color on just that spot and fan it out, and reclear the whole thing. That way your done, dont have to worry about a good blend and it wont dull out all around it with age. Its 3 times as fast to do the whole thing and you dont have to go to the paint store and buy a quart of expensive 'blending agent'. I did that exact thing to this Lincoln hood and it took me all of 30 minutes and it was DONE, and soon as it dried it was ready to deliver. The blending agent is $37 @ quart. And ive really never had any luck with it and ive been painting cars since 1962. I only had any luck blending in old lacquer. Driver says its easy and he does it all the time but never seen him do it so I cant say. Doing the whole thing barely costs you anything...you already have the color and a pint of clear will easily cover the whole clip.

I generally sand and buff a car the next day after painting. I never let it harden more than maybe 3 days. The drier it gets, the harder to buff it back out. That is on a catalyzed urathane paint job. Single stage needs a month or so to cure.

Here we go again....
Roger prefers to re-shoot the whole panel with clear to fix a spot the size of a quarter. I prefer to blend in the spot to save time & money on expensive clear. My blends DO NOT ever "dull out all around it". I also wet sand the whole panel with clear with 1000 instead of just scuffing it, if for some reason I'm re-painting a whole panel. I guess if you shortcut everything you can do a whole rear clip in a 1/2 hour....I can't. Of course most of the time the panel is already sanded & buffed. Lets see him scuff, re-clear, & then sand & buff the whole panel again in anywhere NEAR the amount of time I can blend the spot in.
Roger, you NEED to come down & WATCH me do it if it's the ONLY way you're EVER going to believe me!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: Roger, you NEED to come down & WATCH me do it if it's the ONLY way you're EVER going to believe me! ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Custom Fiberglass Parts

i have the perfect solution....you guys meet up at my house and driver can showcase his skills using my can and said "bug blemish" ....that way hopefully you guys can come to a compromise and i will get my car fixed.....what do you say? sounds like a win win situation to me

[This message has been edited by labbe001 (edited 11-14-2011).]

quote Originally posted by labbe001: i have the perfect solution....you guys meet up at my house and driver can showcase his skills using my can and said "bug blemish" ....that way hopefully you guys can come to a compromise and i will get my car fixed.....what do you say? sounds like a win win situation to me

Would love to but I couldn't even afford the gas to go to the Ga. Fiero Club meeting. Don't know how I'd ever make it there...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts