This is a great write up for repairing your bumper cover. Im gonna try the heat gun to get the sags across the front top of the cover out too.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tec...er_repair/index.html

SMC
Sheet Molded Compound makes up the hood, roof, rear upper quarter, and rear decklid. (Fiberglass)

RRIM
Reinforced Reaction Injection Molding make up fenders, door panels, and lower rear quarters. (the rear lowers were later changed to injection molded nylon)

RIM
Reaction Injection Molded Urethane is used for the facias.

TPO
Thermo Plastic Olefin is used for the rocker panels.
As a side note, the 84 engine cover grill is magnesium!

All Fiero panels are painted with high solids acrylic enamels, and covered with a clearcoat.

Edited to add body panel compositions.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-20-2012).]

Simple, But not cheap.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 11-15-2010).]

Reinforce the backside of the repair or it will easily be redamaged too. On the wavy top, I suggest you dont use the heat gun, your very likely to make it worse. Just sayin...

I cant tell if those dark 'Patches' on the inside are permanent or just some tape stuck on temporarily. I use some fiberglass matt laid on and covered with the flexible bumper filler at least a few inches bigger than the repair on all sides.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 11-15-2010).]

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Reinforce the backside of the repair or it will easily be redamaged too. On the wavy top, I suggest you dont use the heat gun, your very likely to make it worse. Just sayin... I cant tell if those dark 'Patches' on the inside are permanent or just some tape stuck on temporarily. I use some fiberglass matt laid on and covered with the flexible bumper filler at least a few inches bigger than the repair on all sides.

Hi Roger. I greatly respect your opinions on repairs, so with that in mind, what do you recommend for effective 'sagging' repairs of the nose? I've got two GT noses that need some attention in that area.....

ya mines not sagging but someone shoved a license plate holder into the front airdam and the inside of the cover is warped, all bowed out internally.

About all you can do is use adhesive and bond wood or metal panels on the inside to keep it flat. If its already sagged, your pretty much out of luck. Its either live with it or replace it with a better one. Corvettes have the same problem and Ive done a lot of them with replacement noses made from fiberglass. It would be cool if one of the vendors would make replicas of OEM bumper in ABS or Fiberglass. I know some people just put some aftermarket front ends on, theres a few Ferrari 'like' noses. You cant use even flexible filler to level it out, because as soon as the radiator or sun gets hot on it, it warps anyway. Each of the bumper styles has its own honeycomb reinforcement to help it keep it shape, but if its wrong, damaged, etc, it dont do much good. Maybe Driver has something hes tried that kept it straight. Ive never had any luck other than using liquid nails to hold metal panels on the inside under the reinforcment on new ones or ones in good condition.

This is what i used to do the repair. The link i gave above shows how to do it.


Cleaner and Adhesion promoter.


These go on the backside of the crack for rigidity. They are self adhesive and permanent.


For RIM repairs.
Flexible, sandable filler.


For RRIM repairs.
This is for fabricating broken off tabs or whatever you want to make. The side Quarters are RRIM. Great for modifying them.
This article covers the mounting tabs on the edge of the fascia and some minor SMC repair.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tec...dy_repair/index.html

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-20-2012).]

I dont know exactly what you mean but ill take some guesses. On the inside, I put some of the bumper repair material over the prepped area, lay the patch in it while its wet, then put more over the top of it all in one step. If you put more on afterward, you need to rough the patch up with something like #80 grit. On the outside, after the repair looks good with correct shape and so on, I do put a final thin layer over a wider area making sure the whole place im putting it is prepped. Dont just wipe some over the smooth cover. After I final sand that thin coat (you may sand most of it back off in the end) then its ready for primer. Any defects you see in the primer after its sanded will show in the paint. You can fill minor things with 2 part spot putty over the primer.

Heres an update on the repair. I found this mod after I started the repair.

This is the thread I referenced. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/109122.html












I have some more finish work to do yet.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-03-2011).]

Are you just asking for the measurement of that area on one of these bumpers with this repair? Or just any bumper that doesn't have any issues?

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86 2.8 gt

Just where the arrow is. Its been added on to and i dont know how low to leave the rear of the added onto portion to make it level. I just guessed and made it 8 1/2"

My 88 GT has a fiberglass chin spoiler which I "bolted in place". Since installing it in 2006, It has been removed, repaired and repainted twice as since it makes the front low and it gets scraped, cracked and chipped easily. Yours will be more flexible as it was made from another Fiero nose. I don't have those measurments, but if you cut the aero nose correctly, those measurements should just be equal which is all that is necessary for looks.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: It would be cool if one of the vendors would make replicas of OEM bumper in ABS or Fiberglass. .....

Fiero Fiberglass does make both front and OEM bumper covers and have for a couple of years.

Thank you guys.

Might as well add fog lights.

Nice job. I had to repair my bumper (twice!) and also did the 'chin spoiler' mod to mine.
As far as the measurement goes that you're looking for, it's a personal preference. I just went out and measured that part on my bumper, and it's about 6 1/2" from that line to the bottom edge. It was originally lower, but when I first bolted the bumper to the car and looked at it from the side, it didn't look right. The side ground effects were higher than the back edge of the bumper. The top of your blue tape in one of the previous pictures is about where mine is at. Seems like a lot taken off, and it is, but it flows much better, in my opinion. I also tapered the nose up slightly. I didn't like the way it looked parallel to the ground. Here's an old thread after I got my car assembled. There's a good side shot of my car showing what I mean.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...100421-1-073677.html

WOW! Your car looks great! Thanks for the measurements. I hope to have mine done before Fierorama 2011. (Late Fall) Thanks again.

First coat of primer.



I did straighten out the bottom and trim the back edge to 7.5".

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 01-29-2011).]

I used this. Its single stage, (no hardener.) Every time i sprayed it , the previous layers were re liquified and got the RIM to swell making it a PITA to smooth sand.I have DP50LF epoxy primer now and will respray it starting over with high build sandwiched between the DP50.



Edit: 3/20/12 actually the primer has sat unfinished for a while now and has started to crack due to shrinkage. It may not be good primer or i sprayed it to hot.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-20-2012).]

nice! I hope to be doing this mod in the future

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Rescued & resuscitated 1984 Indy Fiero Pace Car presently reversibly modified...LOL!

I've found a donor bumper but its warped at the bottom lip, anyone think I could straighten it with a heat gun to get it good enough for this mod? The guy only wants $20 for it so why not?

quote Originally posted by nitroheadz28: I've found a donor bumper but its warped at the bottom lip, anyone think I could straighten it with a heat gun to get it good enough for this mod? The guy only wants $20 for it so why not?

I have a formula bumper just getting moved around my garage and it seems to take on the shape that it rests in. ie. a mild flex will straighten out if it rests straight. I would give it a shot.

$20 bucks was what i paid for my donor bumper too. I noticed Tyler Shipmans car has the lower bumper mod http://www.tylerstoy.com/ . There is no filler on the seam and I think it looks good. This brings up the cost of the Automix, I would suggest keeping the lower bumper add on removable for ease of repairs and keeping the cost of the mod down.

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: I have a formula bumper just getting moved around my garage and it seems to take on the shape that it rests in. ie. a mild flex will straighten out if it rests straight. I would give it a shot. $20 bucks was what i paid for my donor bumper too. I noticed Tyler Shipmans car has the lower bumper mod http://www.tylerstoy.com/ . There is no filler on the seam and I think it looks good. This brings up the cost of the Automix, I would suggest keeping the lower bumper add on removable for ease of repairs and keeping the cost of the mod down.

I gotcha, for $20 I'll give it a shot. Yeah I actually like it not filled in cause it makes the bumper less prone to damage if the lip catches something- and I don't like how it looks with one large lip. Thanks!