Well, as long as everybodies jumpin’ on the building a Countach bandwagon, I may as well join up. I’ve been meaning to do this for quite a while. I, like many, got the Countach itch about 25 years ago or so, when Countach defined Supercar (still does in my opinion). Anyway, I was finally in a position to build one, so I bought an LP5000 S body from Jon Easton in Houston (formerly Easton/Armstrong).
(Some pics I may have hair, others, not so. Go figure!) It actually has the Quattrovalvole engine bonnet, but I want to lose the hump so I can have a little visability out the back, plus I like the earlier lids better anyway. Here’s a link to a website I originally started on Geocities (now defunct) and was moved to the free Webring. com webpage hosting service. http://webspace.webring.com/people/wc/countach711 Many of the links and photo enlargements no longer exist, but there is some good info still there for those that are interested, in addition to some of my old rides and other projects, etc. While I always loved and really wanted the 5000S version, and I had a hard time deciding between Euroworks, which I think looks a little better, or Easton’s, which came with more things already done. The main factor for me was that Easton would mount the doors and Euroworks refused stating it wasn’t good to do so unless it was to the steel chassis. Since I’d read horror stories about mounting the doors, I went with Easton. I did end up getting Euroworks wheels while they were still offered, and while they are awesome, I was a bit taken aback when for the money I paid for them, they came with generic centers. I think I choose well because the doors work flawlessly, look exactly like OEM, AND I can (and will) mount the hinge and latching points to the chassis. The one body flaw that the roof is too flat, I will fix, and then it will look just like a real Countach, as the Euroworks does. Rumor has it the roof got flattened after someone left crap sitting on top of the mold for an extended period.
This is a completed Easton Countach, a gentleman I met over the phone after Jon Easton provided me a few references. While it is unargueably a beautiful car, if you look closely, from the point where the quarter window meets the door, the roof starts to fall flat. On real ones, the gentle rear curve continues to a peak just about 2” behind the windshield. This is what I see, (as do the builders of Mirage replicas in England), although some others may have another opinion. I have also entertained the idea of a targa top, but the roof fix combined with a targa top would move my build completion back too far. Maybe I will do it someday in the future if I still desire it upon completion. For a very fair price, the Easton came with a LOT of great features: Inside deck lids are finished, so no ugly fiberglass when you lift the lids, all lids are mounted and hinged, indicator covers, scored like the factory, with metal buckets and frames, Curved quarter glass, with frames, Curved windshield, all louvers, made exactly like factory (I know this because I first thought some of the parts and pieces looked cheesey and cheap, but when I saw one up close at a car show my jaw dropped because it was identical to mine! I guess being these were created in the seventies, some of the manufacturing isn’t quite up to modern standards!), fiberglass seat buckets, interior tub (which I removed 80% of since I went with a Fiero chassis as opposed to Jon’s chassis. His was great, but I know my limitations, so I went Fiero mainly because it would be pre-wired, something I am not great at.) I think that’s all it came with, if any of you are interested, I can see if I can find a phone number for Jon although I don’t know if he still sells them or not. For the chassis, I bought an 1988 Formula, which had good suspension, brakes and engine, but otherwise wasn’t in very good shape. I got it cheap out of L.A. then flew out and drove it back home to Colorado.
After stripping what I needed, I parted it out and made back a little more than what I paid for it. I stretched the frame in the cradle area +/-5”. I say +/- because I recently traded someone for a 4.9 cradle and the suggestion was made to go with a 6” stretch. I tried it, and it was too much. The wheels I have are so tight in the rear, I need to keep them forward in the opening in order to clear the flare’s lip, which curves out slightly wider as comes from back to front. Plus, at least on my model, it looks more like stock. I think I ended up at about 5-1/4”, after eye-balling and triple checking it multiple times. Plus, even though the molds were originally pulled off a real car, it is not a perfect mirror image from side to side. Again, this was a hand made product so one flare may be 1/4 “ further forward than the other side, etc. As some of you know the fire power comes from PBJ’s old 4.9 turbo engine, which I obtained via another Pennock’s member by purchasing the Fiero he had put it into. I didn’t want to spend time replacing the engine so I parted it out after I pulled the engine and other various parts ( I also had trouble obtaining a title because the title was signed incorrectly, then the mistake-correction paperwork was signed incorrectly, then I gave up. ;-)
I am still working the kinks out of the install, and it probably all won’t be worked out until I get it licensed and can drive it for extended periods to really get it dialed in. For now, it seems to be running fairly well. Shifting is via the Getrag 4-speed (or was it Muncie?) Well, I turn 50 in July, so it is my intention to get it finished before then, or at the very least, licensed and driveable. So this build thread will be a quick one, with the exception maybe of paint and interior work which may be extended. My original ‘theme’ of the build was to be “no excuses”. In other words, if I found myself explaining a part of the car to someone, I wouldn’t always have to say something like, “well, I was going to do this, but..” Unfortunatley, since I have been unemployed for an extended period, that has changed. The new theme is two-fold, number one is ‘get it done!’ and number two is to do what I want and not what I think someone at a car show would think is cool, or correct. As a result, I plan to take a few liberties with body design, and DEFINITELY the interior, which will be a complete custom job. Obviously, my budget it extrememly limited, which will drive many of my decisions, as will time factors, as we just adopted a 10-yeaer old girl and I don’t want to think I am ignoring her, cause she is a GREAT kid!!! Well, feel free to add your comments, I will try to keep it updated, so enjoy!
------------------ Sweet signature courtesy of one fine MinnGreenGT
[This message has been edited by countach711 (edited 04-14-2010).]
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02:04 PM
PFF
System Bot
Isolde Member
Posts: 2504 From: North Logan, Utah, USA Registered: May 2008
That is the best looking body. The 5000! I do NOT like those groung effects. (I could probably live with them though) I will trade you my wife for it sir! Good looking, Nice rack, Cooks, Cleanishes.............sometimes. Most importantly shees a good girl. Had one or 4 beers. got to go
you people crack me up. Joe, I will post more pics after taxes, if you get my drift! Always the last minute... Will, this top is not as bad as others I've seen, but it bugs me enough that I've got to change it or it will forever nag at me!!!
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09:54 PM
exoticmotorsportscom Member
Posts: 51 From: Santa Rosa, CA, USA Registered: Mar 2010
That's awesome. I'm just finishing up a 25th anniversary myself. You putting side windows in yours? Heres my current countach project Please check it out and let me know what you think. http://www.exoticmotorsports.com/Random_Page.html
Where are you located? I have a couple of Lambos too. Glad to know your here. Heres my site if you ever need help. got more pictures on the website www.exoticmotorsports.com
quote
Originally posted by countach711:
Well, as long as everybodies jumpin’ on the building a Countach bandwagon, I may as well join up. I’ve been meaning to do this for quite a while. I, like many, got the Countach itch about 25 years ago or so, when Countach defined Supercar (still does in my opinion). Anyway, I was finally in a position to build one, so I bought an LP5000 S body from Jon Easton in Houston (formerly Easton/Armstrong).
(Some pics I may have hair, others, not so. Go figure!) It actually has the Quattrovalvole engine bonnet, but I want to lose the hump so I can have a little visability out the back, plus I like the earlier lids better anyway. Here’s a link to a website I originally started on Geocities (now defunct) and was moved to the free Webring. com webpage hosting service. http://webspace.webring.com/people/wc/countach711 Many of the links and photo enlargements no longer exist, but there is some good info still there for those that are interested, in addition to some of my old rides and other projects, etc. While I always loved and really wanted the 5000S version, and I had a hard time deciding between Euroworks, which I think looks a little better, or Easton’s, which came with more things already done. The main factor for me was that Easton would mount the doors and Euroworks refused stating it wasn’t good to do so unless it was to the steel chassis. Since I’d read horror stories about mounting the doors, I went with Easton. I did end up getting Euroworks wheels while they were still offered, and while they are awesome, I was a bit taken aback when for the money I paid for them, they came with generic centers. Alan was quite rude when I mentioned it. I think I choose well because the doors work flawlessly, look exactly like OEM, AND I can (and will) mount the hinge and latching points to the chassis. The one body flaw that the roof is too flat, I will fix, and then it will look just like a real Countach, as the Euroworks does. Rumor has it the roof got flattened after someone left crap sitting on top of the mold for an extended period.
This is a completed Easton Countach, a gentleman I met over the phone after Jon Easton provided me a few references. While it is unargueably a beautiful car, if you look closely, from the point where the quarter window meets the door, the roof starts to fall flat. On real ones, the gentle rear curve continues to a peak just about 2” behind the windshield. This is what I see, (as do the builders of Mirage replicas in England), although some others may have another opinion. I have also entertained the idea of a targa top, but the roof fix combined with a targa top would move my build completion back too far. Maybe I will do it someday in the future if I still desire it upon completion. For a very fair price, the Easton came with a LOT of great features: Inside deck lids are finished, so no ugly fiberglass when you lift the lids, all lids are mounted and hinged, indicator covers, scored like the factory, with metal buckets and frames, Curved quarter glass, with frames, Curved windshield, all louvers, made exactly like factory (I know this because I first thought some of the parts and pieces looked cheesey and cheap, but when I saw one up close at a car show my jaw dropped because it was identical to mine! I guess being these were created in the seventies, some of the manufacturing isn’t quite up to modern standards!), fiberglass seat buckets, interior tub (which I removed 80% of since I went with a Fiero chassis as opposed to Jon’s chassis. His was great, but I know my limitations, so I went Fiero mainly because it would be pre-wired, something I am not great at.) I think that’s all it came with, if any of you are interested, I can see if I can find a phone number for Jon although I don’t know if he still sells them or not. For the chassis, I bought an 1988 Formula, which had good suspension, brakes and engine, but otherwise wasn’t in very good shape. I got it cheap out of L.A. then flew out and drove it back home to Colorado.
After stripping what I needed, I parted it out and made back a little more than what I paid for it. I stretched the frame in the cradle area +/-5”. I say +/- because I recently traded someone for a 4.9 cradle and the suggestion was made to go with a 6” stretch. I tried it, and it was too much. The wheels I have are so tight in the rear, I need to keep them forward in the opening in order to clear the flare’s lip, which curves out slightly wider as comes from back to front. Plus, at least on my model, it looks more like stock. I think I ended up at about 5-1/4”, after eye-balling and triple checking it multiple times. Plus, even though the molds were originally pulled off a real car, it is not a perfect mirror image from side to side. Again, this was a hand made product so one flare may be 1/4 “ further forward than the other side, etc. As some of you know the fire power comes from PBJ’s old 4.9 turbo engine, which I obtained via another Pennock’s member by purchasing the Fiero he had put it into. I didn’t want to spend time replacing the engine so I parted it out after I pulled the engine and other various parts ( I also had trouble obtaining a title because the title was signed incorrectly, then the mistake-correction paperwork was signed incorrectly, then I gave up. ;-)
I am still working the kinks out of the install, and it probably all won’t be worked out until I get it licensed and can drive it for extended periods to really get it dialed in. For now, it seems to be running fairly well. Shifting is via the Getrag 4-speed (or was it Muncie?) Well, I turn 50 in July, so it is my intention to get it finished before then, or at the very least, licensed and driveable. So this build thread will be a quick one, with the exception maybe of paint and interior work which may be extended. My original ‘theme’ of the build was to be “no excuses”. In other words, if I found myself explaining a part of the car to someone, I wouldn’t always have to say something like, “well, I was going to do this, but..” Unfortunatley, since I have been unemployed for an extended period, that has changed. The new theme is two-fold, number one is ‘get it done!’ and number two is to do what I want and not what I think someone at a car show would think is cool, or correct. As a result, I plan to take a few liberties with body design, and DEFINITELY the interior, which will be a complete custom job. Obviously, my budget it extrememly limited, which will drive many of my decisions, as will time factors, as we just adopted a 10-yeaer old girl and I don’t want to think I am ignoring her, cause she is a GREAT kid!!! Well, feel free to add your comments, I will try to keep it updated, so enjoy!
I had heard about Easton. Are they still selling body kits? I got the video from Euroworks a while back, but I`m not sure how involved Alan still is in the company. If I remember right someone else sent the CD. Mike
That's awesome. I'm just finishing up a 25th anniversary myself. You putting side windows in yours? Heres my current countach project Please check it out and let me know what you think. http://www.exoticmotorsports.com/Random_Page.html
Where are you located? I have a couple of Lambos too. Glad to know your here. Heres my site if you ever need help. got more pictures on the website
thanks, I am in Colorado, everyone's location is listed with their info on the left side of each post. I like your 25th, very nice. Did you check out the other 2 lambo posts here, plus another in the Construction zone? There are some very nice ones, 2 of the guys are putting V-12's in their's. I do plan to put in side windows, probably will be flat glass and not roll down, but I may design it so a panel could be taken out or something like that. That prototype you developed is very cool. Is this something you are going to sell?
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11:04 PM
Apr 15th, 2010
25thCountach Member
Posts: 121 From: Orlando Florida Registered: Mar 2010
John Easton still has some stuff , at least from last time I talked with him, He was gonna make me a rear bumper...well an aqauintence of mine was gonna pull one from his mold anyway. He's still around, says he's not sold a countach in quite a few years though. You can still reach him I believe using his phone number on the kitcar list.
I understand how it goes Joe, priorities change. You should bring one of your new projects to the next get-together!
Here’s my first update and what I am working on now, the headlights. Another guy I talked to, who built his own Easton, said this was the hardest part of his build, but again, like me, he had Easton mount his doors. I am almost done, all I have to do is drill the holes to mount the pass side motor.
Here’s a pic of the motor and arms holding the light in the upright position. It took a lot of trial and error to get the two arms the correct length and angle and figuring out where to mount it. It is all very tight. If the motor was too close (it is very close now), it ended up hitting the bulbs, if it was too far then the arms had to be longer and they would hit the wheel well. Again, a lot of trial and error.
This is what the headlight looks like in the upright position. As you can see, the bottom of the bulbs do not quite clear the body. I can get them up little more after I put the cap on because I can then cut out the flat top of the bucket, allowing a slightly higher adjustment of the black bulb adjuster/holder-piece. (Right now it is tight against the top.) You can also get a good look at the metal buckets Jon provided for the turn signal housing. They are just set in place at this point. I plan to weld small bolts underneath in the corners for mounting them.
Here is a shot of the bucket and the adjuster/holder. I made it so I can bolt and unbolt the holder to allow my access to the back of the bulbs for wiring and plugging new ones in, etc., plus I can add washers to move it so the bulbs come closer to clearing the body.
Here it is from underneath. I cut the black mounting bracket where the arm attaches from the Fiero headlight buckets. I also used PL Premium Construction Adhesive to glue it in place, addition to 2 screws which I will remove now that they are glued. As a side note, wear gloves when using the glue. I still have a few specs left on my hand and it’s been at least a week since I glued them. You can see how I angled the arm to clear the bulb holder (and wheel well). You can also see the swiveling mounting bracket I built. There are nylon bushings and oil-impregnated inserts for it to rotate freely with. It took a little experimentation to find a pivot point that worked because it had to clear the body at the back of the bucket and of course rise to an upright position. I saw pics of a factory bucket and my pivot point is pretty close to theirs, but there aren’t a lot of options here unless you made an articulating one, and that’s beyond my expertise at this point. You can also see the mounting bolt for the bulb holder. The extra holes in the bucket that I drilled while getting all this figured out will eventually go away along with the bottom of the bucket, pretty near where the steel is that attaches to the holder.
Top view of the buckets which came with the kit. You can’t really tell here, but the mounting bracket is slightly higher on one side so that the lights will be horizontal when in the up position.
This shows that the top cap will fit once it is all together. Another nice touch that Jon Easton provided was an extra top cap for each side. I guess this was either because he feels the one you cut out of the body is either too thick, or that you’d mess it up when cutting it out. I was dreading the pain of mounting the thinner caps when I realized I had cut out the body’s ones well enough to reuse them, plus they are the perfect thickness, go figure! I plan to install them after the body is in its final position so I can be sure they’ll be correct. I’d hate to attach them now only to have them be off a bit because the body tweaked somehow in final mounting!
This shows how the bucket rotates up to perpendicular to the ground, or very close to it.
Here’s an overall view.
That was the last hard part of the exterior build (so far.) Now I will focus on completing the body mounting and final welds (again). After that I can start chipping away at the simplier stuff. Yea!!!
John, I full well understand the trouble you've gone through to mount those headlights... I've got a 308 rebody, and unlike the Mera knock-offs, mine required moving new headlight pods outboard of the framerails and designing a new lever and motor mounting system. I'd like to suggest that you mount your headlight motors to something considerably more rigid than that fibreglass wheel well liner. Take it from someone with experience, those motors and the linkages have to be very rigid otherwise the headlight pods will shimmy up & down causing an extremely annoying vibration in the headlight beams at night, and give a "cheap" feel to the car. If you don't, then every little bump in the road will remind you of this post .
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11:24 AM
motoracer838 Member
Posts: 3751 From: Edgewater Co. USofA Registered: Jan 2006
John, I full well understand the trouble you've gone through to mount those headlights... I've got a 308 rebody, and unlike the Mera knock-offs, mine required moving new headlight pods outboard of the framerails and designing a new lever and motor mounting system. I'd like to suggest that you mount your headlight motors to something considerably more rigid than that fibreglass wheel well liner. Take it from someone with experience, those motors and the linkages have to be very rigid otherwise the headlight pods will shimmy up & down causing an extremely annoying vibration in the headlight beams at night, and give a "cheap" feel to the car. If you don't, then every little bump in the road will remind you of this post .
What Blooz said, the headlight bounce will drive you nuts!!!
Thanks Blooz, Joe... I think, aaaaarrrgggggggggg!!! I guess I'll transition to finishing up the body mounting now, since it'll effect the final lighting poisition.
Joe (or anyone with kit experience), you know I've had my body quite a while, and for most of the time it has been stored resting on the fender points (for lack of a better description.) So, let's see, would that mean if anything, the body may have 'potatoe-chipped', bending up at each end, correct? So when I mount the front, if anything I should bring it down a bit, maybe a 1/2" or so?? I guess just eyeball it. Or does the bottom of the front air dam need to stay exactly parallel to the ground, in line with the side? Will, what does your friend's car look like?
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12:33 PM
25thCountach Member
Posts: 121 From: Orlando Florida Registered: Mar 2010
Well, I went and checked all my pics from yesterday and I knew Marks was 4.9 at the front of the wheel lowest point and 5.9 at front of the air dam. They had three Countach models there. An 1980 DD, the 85 Alpine Poster Car, and of course, Mark's 89 Anniversary. After confirming what I thought already, it's safe bet that the same thing is going on with the other models as well. So I think you're safe if you have an upward sweep on your airdam, hope this helps.
Will
[This message has been edited by 25thCountach (edited 04-18-2010).]
that's excellent Will, thanks! I went out and checked it today and it looks like it does tilt up a bit, the one inch of difference info is very helpful.
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11:28 PM
Apr 19th, 2010
25thCountach Member
Posts: 121 From: Orlando Florida Registered: Mar 2010
I already sold it I have a new project I call Stinger I should be able to release on my website soon as long as the weather allows me to move some cars around. I just finished a split trunk and decklid for my 25th project and added a roll down vent side window. I can't wait to see the 25th in action. Man Your car is going to be sweet. Are you going to add any amenities that don't normally come in the 25th? anyone else building a countach. Please add your pics on my blog spot. I'm trying to build a database of fiero and kitcar replicas for everyone. the first link is to my site the second is to the kitsandreplicas blog.
I just added this to my site recently so please send your build or pics and share info so we can all share and help people.
quote
Originally posted by countach711:
thanks, I am in Colorado, everyone's location is listed with their info on the left side of each post. I like your 25th, very nice. Did you check out the other 2 lambo posts here, plus another in the Construction zone? There are some very nice ones, 2 of the guys are putting V-12's in their's. I do plan to put in side windows, probably will be flat glass and not roll down, but I may design it so a panel could be taken out or something like that. That prototype you developed is very cool. Is this something you are going to sell?
Originally posted by exoticmotorsportscom: I can't wait to see the 25th in action. Man Your car is going to be sweet. Are you going to add any amenities that don't normally come in the 25th? anyone else building a countach. Please add your pics on my blog spot. I'm trying to build a database of fiero and kitcar replicas for everyone. the first link is to my site the second is to the kitsandreplicas blog. I just added this to my site recently so please send your build or pics and share info so we can all share and help people.
The 25th you are building sounds sweet. Not sure what mean about adding things not on a 25th, it won't have anything from a 25th. If you are asking what I plan that isn't stock on a 5000S, you'll have to wait and see as I don't really want to debate the merits of everything I choose to do in this forum, as great as it is. I'd rather just do it and then have people comment, or at least start it first. ( I do admit that building the lights got me some wasted time but those are the breaks) There are 2 other Countach builds going on here if you haven't found them already. While I appreciate the invite to post on your website, I am just going to post here as this will take all the time I want to give to the task that it is. You are welcome to copy my stuff over there if you'd like, obviously assuming you don't plan on using any of it for your commercial use. You might also just post one pic and a link to this thread, just an idea. Anyway, thanks for your comments, and I'll be watching your build. I also sent you a private message! Let me know if you need help checking it.
[This message has been edited by countach711 (edited 04-22-2010).]
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04:12 PM
Apr 24th, 2010
motoracer838 Member
Posts: 3751 From: Edgewater Co. USofA Registered: Jan 2006
thanks Joe. Once I discovered the sensitivity adjustment on my helmet, and could actually SEE where I was welding, it was like a whole other world. Before that it was weld and pray!
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06:35 PM
motoracer838 Member
Posts: 3751 From: Edgewater Co. USofA Registered: Jan 2006
thanks Joe. Once I discovered the sensitivity adjustment on my helmet, and could actually SEE where I was welding, it was like a whole other world. Before that it was weld and pray!
It's amazing what a difference seeing what your doing makes. In the mid '90's the quality of my welds was falling off and I couldn't understand why, Then I discovered that I needed reading glasses, I started wearing them under my hood and bam, I could weld again. since then I've had lasik and discovered cheater lenses for the hood.
Those are some good tips, I'll have to check out the cheater lenses. How are your projects coming along?
I'm almost done with Will's brake upgrade kit, and hope to be getting back to the Indy Hauler in the next week or so, then "maybe" I can get back to the Grin reaper!?! I've got other stuff coming up, but this will take me well into summer, so I'm not going to comment on that at this point of time. (part of this depends on what sells and what doesn't, hint hint)
You might be a king, or a little street sweeper, but sooner or latter you'll dance with the Reaper. Joe
Hey Joe, what is the hydraulic lift you recommend for the Countach doors? As you recall, you need to be a competetive weight lifter to get mine down, with one arm in the car seated it is virtually impossible. I seem to recall you mentioned a Volvo one? The open measurement on mine is 19-1/2", I didn't get the closed. I didn't make my deadline of yesterday, but I am making progress. I had hoped to get some time off work for the final push, but for some reason my manager scheduled my time off for AFTER my birthday. Thanks. I still might not have finished, but it would have been nice to try. I have also been busy with getting my rental re-occupied, my last tenants decided to move after I asked for a $50 increase after 2-1/2 years. To bad too cause now I get $200 more per month. They can kiss my @)(*$&^@$@. I also spent a week or so painting the living room for a visit from the in-laws, ahhh, but such is life! Anywho, I had a friend visting from Calif for my birthday and took him for a ride. This was the first time I really got on it, and it went pretty well. I had my daughter video tape it, but there's only about 3 seconds of salvageable video there. She saw it and finally is starting to understand that she really needs to keep still when she's filming. I think the car will run even better when I put some premium in there! I will post some pic updates soon here.
First, I had to make the final decision if I was mounting the body at the correct height. I could have gone back to a 1” lower level but since it doesn’t look too bad (to me) now, I decided to keep it where it was, especially to save on head room. Also, it already scrapes leaving my driveway, and I can always lower the suspension more later after everything is installed and the suspension settles. Mounting the body is becoming increasingly difficult as I still need (okay, want) to have the body come on and off to allow easier access for mechanical work. I still need to replace the clutch hydraulic cylinder with a remote tank model, replace the brake booster with an S-10 one and probably need to replace the head gaskets among other things. As it is now, I can barely finagle the body on and off.
Here’s another pic
Here are some more frame pics showing additional side framing and the front framing mounting and battery relocation. I re-used the Fiero steel bumper as a mounting system and it worked out quite well. I still have final welding and MUCH more work to do obviously.
Here's a link to another test drive. The video is not the greatest, even after heavy editing, but it is okay, but the audio is really good. You can hear how much better the car is running since I reset the timing!
I'm south of your location and I'm planning on doing either a Countach or a Diablo in the near future. Id like to come and check out this car sometime.
I will also work for free
[This message has been edited by VF1Skullangel (edited 11-04-2010).]
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11:37 PM
Nov 5th, 2010
exoticse Member
Posts: 8650 From: Orlando, Fl Registered: Jun 2003
Here's a link to another test drive. The video is not the greatest, even after heavy editing, but it is okay, but the audio is really good. You can hear how much better the car is running since I reset the timing!
I'm south of your location and I'm planning on doing either a Countach or a Diablo in the near future. Id like to come and check out this car sometime.
I will also work for free
sure, shoot me an email and I'll give you my number. it'll be a little while before its worth viewing as I've got some other things going on in the garage right now.
.
What Blooz said, the headlight bounce will drive you nuts!!!
I guess I'll transition to finishing up the body mounting now, since it'll effect the final lighting poisition. 
I've got other stuff coming up, but this will take me well into summer, so I'm not going to comment on that at this point of time. (part of this depends on what sells and what doesn't, hint hint)
