Okay Proud-2 hasn't run since it came home on the flatbed over a year ago.



Now that I had some time I decided for a shotgun approach and rebuilt the distributor, replaced the p/u coil, ign coil, cap, rotor, wires and plugs.



Now you know where this is going. I swear I got everything back together exactly as I took it apart. I only removed one wire at a time, but I somehow manged to confuse myself.

Good news is that engine runs. Bad news it runs like crap, like the timing is way off.

So I'm wondering if somehow my wires got crossed, but what confused me is that I didn't realize that people use different starting points for the #1 cylinder. I found these drawings in the archive...





and they are different. I think I may have gotten confused looking at the different drawings.

So I need to start from scratch and verify that I have the rotor pointed at #1 when it's at TDC. I know I have to turn the engine over by hand, look for the timing mark at the harmonic balancer but what is the best way to verify TDC on #1? I know I can't see down there as #1 is almost nearly hidden. Any suggestions?

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-27-2009).]

Pull the plugs. Turn it by hand and feel for the compression stroke on the #1. To see if the piston is tdc stick a screwdriver in the plug hole and carefully bring it to the top of the stroke. And the #2 pic is correct.

So....you have no idea which one is #1? Crank over the engine (by hand) until the cylinder nearest the passenger side trunk is at top dead cylinder. This will be #1. Remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing......with any luck it will be close, but it'll just be easier to reset everything.

Remove the distributor from the block and the wires from the cap. Pick a terminal on the cap to be #1 (you can use the diagram you found in the archives) and intall the plug wire. Re-install the distributor making sure that the rotor points to the #1 terminal you just set-up. Now you can install the other wires......the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 and goes clockwise, so this should be easy.


6 4 2
@
5 3 1

^This is how the cylinders should line up (the @ is the distributor). Get everything attached and bolted down and try firing it up. If it fires right up and runs pretty smoothly then you have it and just need to fine tune the timing. If it runs rough then it is 180* out and you need to either move the wires on the distributor cap 3 places to the right (#1 becomes #4, #2 becomes #5, etc.) or you need to removes the distributor again and rotate the rotor 180* (make it point to #4 instead of #1).


That's how I would do it.....that way you know exactly which cylinder is which and won't be confused in the future.

[This message has been edited by mrfiero (edited 12-27-2009).]

Thanks... I know which cylinder is #1... I just wasn't sure of the exact method of determining TDC on the compression stroke. Every thread is a bit vague on exactly how you do that. And if you guess wrong you can end up 180 out.

My wires were like the ones in the second picture.

I'm still not sure what I did wrong as I was careful to try and put everything back as I found it but it's running as if the timing is way off or like it's running on 5 cylinders.

Maybe my timing is just too advanced? But I expected my timing to be in the ballpark before adjusting it properly to 10 BTDC, but I'm not in the ballpark.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-27-2009).]

OK then......get #1 cylinder to TDC and remove the dirtsibutor cap to see where the rotor is pointing. This is the first thing you need to do. Now you can double check the wires to see if they are in the right spot. It might be as simple as 2 crossed wires or as messed up as the distributor being 180* out. Getting #1 to TDC will tell you what's going on.

**Edit** If you think you are too far advanced and the car runs (albeit rough) then get it started and idling.....now retard/advance the distributor to see if it smooths things out. It may only be a tooth or two off!

[This message has been edited by mrfiero (edited 12-27-2009).]

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: OK then......get #1 cylinder to TDC and remove the dirtsibutor cap to see where the rotor is pointing.

Thanks!! I'll do that first thing tomorrow... I would award you a "+" but I already did that years ago (87antuzzi gets a "+")

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Thanks!! I'll do that first thing tomorrow... I would award you a "+" but I already did that years ago (87antuzzi gets a "+")

LMK how it goes....I imagine you're not too far off (since the car runs). As for the "+"......you did give me one years ago and it was the one that made my ratings bar appear. Thanks!

Just make sure you don't have the same problem I had last year...

quote Originally posted by Patrick: I had rebuilt my distributor, so I needed to time the engine when I put the distributor back in. I had never worked on a 2.8L engine before I bought this '86 GT in March (as my other Fieros are Dukes), so everything/anything I'm doing on this engine is new to me. Well, no matter what I did I couldn't get the dog-gone engine timed properly. When I followed the proper procedure, the engine would stall at 10 degrees BTDC. To make a LONG story short, it appears the outer hub of the harmonic balancer has spun on its rubber mount. Just my luck the FIRST time I ever try to time a 2.8L engine, the timing marks are all screwed up. Anyway, just for now I've inscribed a new timing mark on the harmonic balancer. This mark really is at TDC. Once I did that, timing the engine was a piece of cake.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-27-2009).]

My guess is you have a couple wires crossed. The timing has to be waaaay off for it to run bad, and usually it will pop out of the intake if too advanced, or out the exhaust if too retarded. Missing and/or rough running indicate the firing is out of order.

I put the engine at TDC and it's pointing at #1 or at #4.... I'm stumped as how to tell if it's 180 out or not. would it be running really bad like it is now?

I've checked the wiring at least 10 times and it is wired 1-2-3-4-5-6 like it should be. I'm at a loss other than to reverse everything 180 and see what happens, but I don't have a clue how it could have gotten that way.

If its 180 out, why not just start the plugs at the 4 post and go clockwise, 1,2,3,4,5,6?

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: So....you have no idea which one is #1? Crank over the engine (by hand) until the cylinder nearest the passenger side trunk is at top dead cylinder. This will be #1. Remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing......with any luck it will be close, but it'll just be easier to reset everything. Remove the distributor from the block and the wires from the cap. Pick a terminal on the cap to be #1 (you can use the diagram you found in the archives) and intall the plug wire. Re-install the distributor making sure that the rotor points to the #1 terminal you just set-up. Now you can install the other wires.

Not wanting to start an argument here, but if you go about it this way, you still only have a 50/50 chance of getting it right because cylinder #1 may be at TDC at the end of the compression stroke OR at the end of the exhaust stroke. You want to be sure it's at the end of the compression stroke if you're setting the timing for cylinder #1.

There are only two ways to know for sure if it's at the end of the compression stroke for cyl #1:

a. remove the spark plug and put your finger, compression gauge, etc in the spark plug hole and wait until you start getting pressure forcing your finger out of the hole or a positive reading on your gauge. Then continue turning the crank clockwise as viewed from the passenger wheel well looking towards the engine until the fat groove on the harmonic damper is lined up with the timing tab (either 0 or 10 degrees); OR

b. if you have your valve covers off, rotate the engine clockwise until the fat groove on the harmonic damper is starting to line up with the timing tab and check out the action of the rockers as you're approaching the mark, and keep watching for a quarter turn after. If neither rocker is moving then you've got it. If on the other hand, the exhaust rocker is closing as you approach the timing mark and the intake rocker is starting to open after you've passed the mark, then you are at TDC #1 at the end of the exhaust stroke (or equivalently TDC #4 on the firing stroke) so you've got to turn the crank 360* to get to TDC #1 on the firing stroke.

There are no other ways to tell if you're on the right stroke. You have to use one or the other approach. Once you're sure about where your crank is, then turn it a bit to set it at 10*. Here's where things change a bit depending on whether you've pulled the distributor out or not:

If you pulled it out, then before you stick it in, you want to turn the rotor until it's pointed at about the 12 o'clock position as viewed from the rear of the engine looking towards the front of it. As you lower it in, it will turn towards the 1 or 2 o'clock position. This is good, because when all is said and done, you want to be able to make the final timing adjustment by rotating the distributor body and yet still remain able to plug your ignition module in. If you don't do this, then you may not be able to turn the distributor enough to make your final adjustments and you'll have a helluva time replacing that ignition module if it ever fails. Next, note where the rotor is pointing to, by finding a convenient bolt on the engine or other reference mark or even use some masking tape. Then, place the cap on the distributor and rotate the body until the #1 post is also lined up with your reference bolt (or mark) (use photo #2 above to find #1 post on the cap). Tighten the distributor hold down clamp lightly, then make your final adjustment with a timing light.

If you didn't pull the distributor out but just loosened it, then all you have to do once you've set the engine at TDC #1 on the firing stroke is remove the distributor cap, and note a point of reference on the engine where the rotor is pointing as above. If the rotor isn't pointing somewhere around the 1 or 2 o'clock position as viewed from the the transmission end of the engine, then pull the distributor out enough to reset the rotor as above and follow through with the rest of the procedure above. If on the other hand it is in the right range, then replace the cap, and turn the distributor body until the #1 post is lined up with your reference bolt (or mark). Double check that your wires are indeed on the right posts and tighten the distributor hold down clamp lightly, then make your final adjustment with a timing light.

If someone sees something wrong let me know...these are pics of my actual car.

I know it looks like #4 and #2 cross but it's an illusion it's really on top of #4.














I did pull out the distributor and it was pointed at 3 o'clock when I pulled it out and it was pointed at 3 o clock when I put it back in so I don't know what happened.

I can't work the body english to turn the engine over and put my hand on the #1 hole. I'm going to have to get a compression gauge.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-27-2009).]

It's routed correctly, so now it's a matter of timing, cross firing, or poorly insulated wires even if they're new. Plug wires shouldn't have much more than 10K ohms per foot. Straight out of the box, I purchased a set for a BBC I have, and they measured 90K ohms end to end over two feet of wire on average. They didn't work.

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: It's routed correctly, so now it's a matter of timing, cross firing, or poorly insulated wires even if they're new. .

I don't think it's the wires, as I got the same results before I swapped on the new wires. It's got to be the timing...something went wrong in the distributor rebuild.

I won't know for sure until I get the compression gauge and confirm that I'm on the compression stroke.

I just had a closer look at the photo where you show the timing mark and scale. I may be wrong, but that doesn't look like the fat mark. There are two thinner marks and one wider groove. Make sure you're on the widest groove for timing.

Edit: but then again it has some white paint around it, so it's probably the right mark.

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 12-27-2009).]

yeah that is the fat mark...the other edge is right on the 0 mark and that is paint just like you say.

JScott...just wanna point out something visual...

What is the part number of the MSD coil you have there?? Its suppose to be part # 8226 for a V6 fiero. I bought one before and it differed from that.

Is it a GM blaster coil?? or another MSD performance model coil??

Thanks,

------------------
fierogt28

88 GT, loaded, 5-speed

quote Originally posted by fierogt28: JScott...just wanna point out something visual... What is the part number of the MSD coil you have there?? Its suppose to be part # 8226 for a V6 fiero. I bought one before and it differed from that. Is it a GM blaster coil?? or another MSD performance model coil?? Thanks,

This was something I was going to mention as well......not necessarily that the coil looked different, but if everything else checks out then it must be something electrical. I would install a known good coil and maybe even a known good distributor.

Jscott.....did you also replace the igniton module when you rebuilt the distributor? I didn't see one in your picture (or is it in the box behind the pick-up coil?) . That said, I have seen bad coils new in the box and since that is the easier one to swap out I would do it first. This all assumes that you have the wires all in the correct order and the timing is set.

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: This was something I was going to mention as well......not necessarily that the coil looked different, but if everything else checks out then it must be something electrical. I would install a known good coil and maybe even a known good distributor. Jscott.....did you also replace the igniton module when you rebuilt the distributor? I didn't see one in your picture (or is it in the box behind the pick-up coil?) . That said, I have seen bad coils new in the box and since that is the easier one to swap out I would do it first. This all assumes that you have the wires all in the correct order and the timing is set.

I replaced the module with a known good module while I was waiting for the tow truck to arrive and it still would not fire. The car was running smooth right before it shut off so I'm pretty sure the original problem was electrical. So after I replaced the p/u coil, coil, cap and rotor it runs, (crappy but runs). So one of those parts was bad.

The coil is an MSD 8226...I figured I might as well upgrade. I could easily put the old one back on but it's not a known good one. I'm tempted to do as you say and pull the dizzy out of my 85 GT and try that, but I'm not sure I want to do that because the 85 might never run again.

Before I throw any more parts at it I need to be 100% sure I have the timing figured out. I'm going to order a compression gauge tonight.

So.....you have a good running '85 GT? Take the coil out of it and replace your new MSD and see what happens. The only other thing would be to replace the distributor or the ignition module again. As long as you mark where the rotor is pointing and the orientation of the base of the distributor, popping it out of the '85 GT and putting it back in again shouldn't affect anything.

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: So.....you have a good running '85 GT? Take the coil out of it and replace your new MSD and see what happens.

Well I didn't say it was a good running 85GT Last time it ran was years ago, but the engine is 100% intact...I'm afraid if I start pulling parts it will never get put back together. That's my own laziness talking.

I'm having a hard time believing that the coil is causing backfires though. I can't tell exactly but I think I'm getting backfires on the intake and exhaust side.

lol.....OK, I see your point on the '85 GT. Let sleeping dogs lie, I guess.


I didn't realize it was backfiring......a bad coil probably won't cause that, but you never know. It still sounds like a timing issue, but to rule it out I would still replace the coil and see what happens.

If you are 100% sure the wires are routed correctly, then just try rotating the distributor a few degrees each way while it is running and see if it smooths out any. I know you work at NASA, but this is not rocket science. A V6 engine that has the timing even 30 degrees out will probably not run worth a crap, much less 180 degrees out. So just give the distributor a twist and see what happens.

Maybe it's time to start looking at things other than ignition. What were the circumstances when the car crapped out over a year ago? What were the symptoms? How did it run just before it died? Now that you have it somewhat running, exactly what is it doing that is not 'right'?

Some things I would check:

1. In your pics there is a loose ground wire. It wouldn't hurt to put that back where it's supposed to go
2. EGR vavle sticking open will cause bad idle. Remove the vacuum line and plug it. Tap the valve with a wrench or something to see if anything changes. If you have a hand vacuum pump, hook it up and draw enough vacuum to open the valve. It should be obvious if it is working or not.
3. examine all vacuum lines for cracks, breaks, melted sections, etc. Repair or replace as necesssary.
4. fuel pressure should be around 43psi. Weak pump or clogged filter are prime suspects.
5. If all that check out, I would pull the valve covers and watch the rocker arms to make sure thay are all moving the same amount. If not, could be a wiped cam lobe.

Just curious, is this the red '88 GT you bought from me several years ago?

quote Originally posted by Formula350: Just curious, is this the red '88 GT you bought from me several years ago?

Yes.

Circumstances surrounding the breakdown were that last year it completed a 1500 mile round trip to the 25 anniversary in Michigan with no issues and getting 30+ mpg. I also had it smogged in October 2008 and it passed with flying colors. And the very next day it shut off exiting the freeway, just like you had turned the key off and no spark after that.

I put it on the back burner for a year, but I fully expected to replace the electronics and it would fire up and purr like a kitten, which is why I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what I did wrong. As far as I can recall I did everything by the book but it is backfiring so bad I'm afraid it's going to blow a hole in a piston so I haven't run it more than a few seconds at a time.

I guess I could retard the Distributor 30 degrees or so and then start it and see what happens?

I've read the thread and I'd like to bring back up what Patrick first mentioned - a slipped harmonic damper. I had a similar thing happen to me (new distributor, couldn't get it timed) so I found a picture of a good damper:



and jscott1's:



Note the location of the "tube". It looks like jscott1's damper has slipped towards the timing cover, which is what they tend to do when they fail. You might want to take a closer look at your damper, see if it has slipped.

Mike

[This message has been edited by Nosferatu187 (edited 12-28-2009).]

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Yes.

Dang I miss that car.

I think you are victom of changing too many things at once. You should have diagnosed the original failure, fixed it, then do the upgrades one at a time. Since you changed everything all at once, everything is at an unknown starting point.

I agree you need to double check the balancer for slip, but that in itself will not cause the engine to run rough and backfire. Yes, if will throw off where the timing mark lines up with the tab. You just need to find the true TDC using a piston stop in the #1 cylinder and see where the balancer lines up. To do this, install the piston stop and rotate the engine by hand until the piston hits the stop, mark the balancer exactly where it lines up with 0 on the timing tab. Then rotate the engine the opposite direction until the piston hits the stop again, mark the balancer again exactly where it lines up with 0 on the timing tab. The true TDC is exactly half way between the 2 marks you just made. Use a steel ruler to measure and then mark the balancer if it does not line up with the machined groove on the balancer.

quote Originally posted by Formula350: Dang I miss that car. I think you are victom of changing too many things at once. You should have diagnosed the original failure, fixed it, then do the upgrades one at a time. Since you changed everything all at once, everything is at an unknown starting point. I agree you need to double check the balancer for slip, but that in itself will not cause the engine to run rough and backfire.

Yeah I didn't do this scientifically, I figured that all new parts would make it run well and I wouldn't care what the original problem was.

But running rough wasn't part of the original problem. It was purring like a kitten right before it shut off. So whatever is making it run rough is a new problem, or one that I just created fixing the original problem.

If the balancer slipped it has to be an amazing coincidence because I have two data points that are consistent with it not slipping. I put the distributor back in without moving the engine and the rotor is pointing right at #1 with the balancer at zero. I marked the distributor and it is right on the mark. So the balancer would have had to slip by the same amount that I somehow misaligned the distributor on reassembly. That seems less likely to me. Everything I did tells me the timing should be within 1 or 2 degrees, but it's running more like it's off by 30 degrees or more. I can't figure it out.

I'm going to have to start from scratch. Summit has a piston stop for $8... do I need the 14 mm version?

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-28-2009).]

Before removing the distributor you set the damper mark to TDC and you're positive the rotor was also pointing at the #1 plug wire? That's basically how I checked my damper, turned it to the TDC mark and the rotor was nowhere near the #1 plug wire but not 180* off either. Since I knew I had installed the new distributor in the same position, something else was wrong. Took a look at the damper and in my case, that was the problem. Mine ran fine too until I installed the new distributor put a timing light on it and aligned the marks, ALDL jumpered, that's when it started running weird. Started a bit harder too and the exhaust manifolds glowed red hot.

Just trying to help and hope you find it, curious to see what the problem actually is.

Mike

P.S. The Ac Delco plug R42TS has 14mm threads so that should be correct.

[This message has been edited by Nosferatu187 (edited 12-28-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Nosferatu187: Before removing the distributor you set the damper mark to TDC and you're positive the rotor was also pointing at the #1 plug wire? That's basically how I checked my damper, turned it to the TDC mark and the rotor was nowhere near the #1 plug wire but not 180* off either. Since I knew I had installed the new distributor in the same position, something else was wrong. Mike

Close... the engine was at some random location which happened to be at 3 O'clock between #6 and #1. When I replaced the dist. I put it exactly back at 3 O'clock. Then when I rotated the damper to 0 degrees it was pointed right at #1. Which tells me the damper is consistent with the distributor all along. Or it's 180 out is the only other answer I can come up with.

I've ordered a compression meter and a piston stop so maybe I can tackly it systematically and figure out what's going on. Once I confirm the position of the crankshaft is correct I'm going to get another distributor from somewhere and swap it out. Something has to be wrong in the distributor...maybe my magnets got degaussed or something?

quote Originally posted by jscott1: If someone sees something wrong let me know...these are pics of my actual car. I know it looks like #4 and #2 cross but it's an illusion it's really on top of #4.

I know you say the #2 and #4 wires are not swapped, but it is hard to tell from the photo what's going on under that bracket. Just for grins, have you tried swapping them to make sure? That would defiinately explain why you hear backfiring out of both the intake and exhaust. And I am also wondering if they are pushed on the plug all the way. The #6 wire seems to be on farther. It's hard to see though with the throttle cable in the way. You should hear/feel a definate 'click' when the plug boot is pushed on all the way.

On second thought, instead of swapping #2 and #4, put your timing light on the #4 wire near the plug and see if the timing mark is in the same place when running as it is when the light is on #1 wire. If it is not, then that is a problem. If it is, then check for spark on all the other wires just to confirm all cylinders are firing.

Couple other random questions... what did you gap you plugs at when you installed them? If that MSD coil puts out higher voltage, then you may want to increase the gap compared to the factory coil. Did you use dielectric grease on the terminals of both ends of each wire?

Also, since the car has sat for over a year, I would be concerned about the gas in the tank. With all the ethanol crap in the gas these days, it soaks up moisture like a sponge. You may want to think about draining the tank and putting some fresh gas in. I would change the filter too. I've seen first hand what the inside of one of these tanks looks like when they sit up for a while with little gas in them. They can get quite rusty.

quote Originally posted by Formula350: Couple other random questions... what did you gap you plugs at when you installed them? If that MSD coil puts out higher voltage, then you may want to increase the gap compared to the factory coil. Did you use dielectric grease on the terminals of both ends of each wire? Also, since the car has sat for over a year, I would be concerned about the gas in the tank.

You raise some interesting points... if it was running a little bad, I might agree, but I don't think any of those things would make it run this bad (except the wire swap).

I'm afraid to let it run more than a few seconds it's backfiring so bad. Something as simple as a #4 and #2 crossed would answer everything, but I have looked at those wires at least 6 times and they appear correct. Maybe after a good nights sleep I'll check them again and see what I see.

The plugs are gapped at 0.045"... I meant to use dialectric grease but I didn't have any, I was going to go back and do that later. The plugs all have a definite click when they are installed.

I heard about the horrors of E10 gasoline, but I have some in the garage that I've been using on my lawnmover for over a year and it still works. Even if the gas is bad I don't think it would cause a backfire...a misfire if anything.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: You raise some interesting points... if it was running a little bad, I might agree, but I don't think any of those things would make it run this bad (except the wire swap).

As you already said, the problem you have now is either something you introduced when you 'fixed' the ignition system. Or is is some entirely unrelated issue(s) that is just now manifesting. I'm just trying to help you eliminate possibilities. Can I say for sure 1 year old ethanol fuel will cause your problem? No. But I am sure it is not helping either. And just because your lawn mower is okay with it does not mean the Fiero is.

If your Fiero's tank was half full, 6 gallons, it could absorb several ounces of water. And where does water go in a tank? To the bottom, right where the fuel pump pickup is. So your fuel pump could be sending a mixture of water and stale gas to the injectors.

Now say you have a 2 gallon can for your lawnmower. When you pour gas into the mower, where does it come from? Duh, the top of the can. That's why your mower doesn't seem to have a problem. But what if you sucked the gas from the bottom of the can into the mower?

Okay, enough of that.

quote Originally posted by Formula350: If your Fiero's tank was half full, 6 gallons, it could absorb several ounces of water. And where does water go in a tank? To the bottom, right where the fuel pump pickup is. So your fuel pump could be sending a mixture of water and stale gas to the injectors.

Good point...before I fire it up again I will top it off with some fresh gas. Even better would be to run the pump and pump out whatever is in there and refill with fresh gas.

That coil is not the right one...I'm sure. I doesn't look at all like the one I had, niether TFS pic, nor summit's.
BTW, where is that MSD coil from?? Even if the clear box says 8226, the coil may be the wrong one.

Make sure you battery (pos & neg) are fastened tightly. Even try useing the older GM coil you have for fun with the new parts.

------------------
fierogt28

88 GT, loaded, 5-speed

quote Originally posted by fierogt28: That coil is not the right one...I'm sure. I doesn't look at all like the one I had, niether TFS pic, nor summit's.

The coil came from the Fiero Store and it's marked 8226 and it plugs right in. What about it looks wrong?

It looks exactly as the TFS coil on their website. It does have a couple of brackets on the side that attach to the stock bracket. Maybe that's what is throwing you off.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-29-2009).]

Sounds to me like it is 180º off. I have had engines 180º off and it did what you're describing. Have you tried turning it 180 yet and seeing what it does ? cant be worse !

quote Originally posted by Mike Gonzalez: Sounds to me like it is 180º off. I have had engines 180º off and it did what you're describing. Have you tried turning it 180 yet and seeing what it does ? cant be worse !

It is impossible for the engine run run if the rotor is a full 180 out. At best you might get a pop when cranking. Think about it, 180 degrees of distributor rotation is 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. So instead of the spark occuring a few degree BTDC on the compression stroke, it would come a few degree BTDC on the exhaust stroke. At this point the exhaust valve would be closing after having been open for the full upward stroke of the piston, and the intake valve would be starting to open for the upcoming intake stroke. There would be little to no fuel in the cylinder and absolutely no compression at all. You could never get the engine to start.

One thing that did occur to me though is the relationship of the distributor gear to the rotor. It's been a long time since I've messed with a V6-60, but I know on the Chevy V8 distributor there is a dimple on the side of the gear that needs to line up with the rotor when you put the roll pin back in. This assures proper phasing between the camshaft and the distributor. You might check that since you had to remove the gear to disassemble the distributor and install the new pickup coil.

quote Originally posted by Formula350: One thing that did occur to me though is the relationship of the distributor gear to the rotor. It's been a long time since I've messed with a V6-60, but I know on the Chevy V8 distributor there is a dimple on the side of the gear that needs to line up with the rotor when you put the roll pin back in. This assures proper phasing between the camshaft and the distributor. You might check that since you had to remove the gear to disassemble the distributor and install the new pickup coil.

I've run though this 100 times in my head trying to figure out what I did wrong. I am 100% sure I put the dimple back on lined up with the rotor. However, I am not 100% sure it was that way originally. From what I read if you reverse that you will be off by a few degrees when you put the dist back in. But I don't think that happened because I recall it going back in exactly as I took it out.

Also I wasn't paying attention to the orientation of the lock tab washer if that makes a difference. Finally my shaft has a lot of end play in it. Bottom line, the more I think about it, I don't think I have a timing issue, I think the distributor is no good. I'm looking for a replacement now.