I put out a posting on the forum a while ago looking for a hood vent. My headlights pop up over 110 mph and my front end steering gets light the Fiero pressurizes up front and the air has no where to go (running a 3.8L S/C) and I wanted better cooling & air flow over the radiator.
A member from the forum Paul Angel AKA "tha driver" hooked me up with one....(The Angel Vent) mine is one of four that Paul has made if interested PM him I think he will make more in the future if enough members are interested, currently $150 plus shipping.

Start out by measuring and getting the center of the hood follow the instructions Paul sends, it will explain exactly where to place. I did this with the hood installed, but would take it off if I had to do it again. Would make it easier and keep the epoxy from sagging until it cures.



Cut the hood using a die grinder with a cut off wheel, only go through the hood, not the substructure the hood material is 3.2mm thick so take it easy. When removing what you cut out you will need a screwdriver to pry the areas where the glue attaches the hood skin to the substructure from behind. You want to save this piece as a whole because you will use it later.



Then trim the substructure, I chose to leave the forward part as you can see in the picture. Also with this installation you must relocate the radiator overflow bottle and cut the firewall that it attaches to so the scoop will fit. I cut two inches in the middle and about 2.5 inches on the sides as you can see in the photo.







Next use the piece you cut out and saved to manufacturer 2 inch wide bonding strips to go around the parameter they will overlap the hood 1 inch and the scoop 1 inch.





Next place the scoop in and secure it, I used cliko's, Paul suggested screws either one gets the job accomplished as long as the epoxy oozes out, once you determine it fits the way you want take it apart and prepare the plastic (SMC) sand all areas to get bonded with 24 or 36 grit make sure all paint and primer is removed down to the plastic then bevel the edges of the scoop and hood 30*. Using a suitable adhesive bond the bonding strips and scoop to the hood I used Norton Speedgrip 90 minute cure epoxy from the Eastwood company P/N 11991 this is a structural adhesive for bonding panels in (SMC, fiberglass and metal) $35.99 be careful mixing it, I pulled it out of the tubes in equal proportions and mixed instead of using the mixing nozzle that comes with adhesive. You have a 90 working time before its start to cure, Eastwood also make some with quicker setting times. Apply the epoxy to areas you prepared and secure up with cliko's or screws. Let dry overnight.







Then counter sink the holes made by the cliko's or screws you can see in this picture the beveled edges of the hood and scoop. Then removed the paint and primer approximately two inches around the scoop down to the plastic (SMC) and apply a filler. I applied Fiber Tech from the Eastwood company P/N 31336 this is ideal for SMC and fiberglass repairs for rigid plastic on ground effects, spoilers running boards and body panels, also has superior adhesion to steel, aluminum and most composites and plastics.







The whole installation took about 8 hours in my shop with the wood burning stove going (Winter Sucks) the only thing left to do is figure out if I will install a screen of some sort at the opening and paint the car this spring. Paul has some idea of putting expanded aluminum at the opening I don't know what it is but he says it's three-dimensional and better looing than screen. I guess when I see what it looks like I'll make up my mind what to do.

I forgot this picture sorry

Nice write-up Scott. I'll add that I think the screws will pull the peices up tighter, which would be better IMO. (Drill holes in the hood & vent: thread the screws into the bonding strips.) Also, I use a right-angle die grinder to bevel the edges/screw holes: with a 3" disc the bevels are much further out. I always use 24 grit discs.
I cut out the upper corners of my fan shrould. Seemed the obvious thing to do as they're visible through the vent.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Gee...my design on Pennock's. I'm a legend in my own mind. ;-D

Very nice writeup, Scott.

And very nice scoop, Paul.

David Breeze

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Pantera Rebody Kits

What Scott didn't mention was the quality of the scoop. These are handlaid fiberglas and VERY rigid. I can't wait to install mine! Nice writeup - thanks.

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cool scoop!!!

I love the vent, but cringe at the thought of cutting that wall. But, that is a rally nice looking vent. I would hate to make this decision if I had to. But, thankfully, my Fiero isn't that fast. Maybe 110... down hill... being pushed...

How much was the scoop, where did u purchase it & after installitation how much do u think everything cost.

Nice scoop but I would hate to cut the front trunk like that. Also I dont know if I would want to be looking at the back of the radiator and fan all the time. Wish there was something you could do about that.

cutting the trunk wall is not bad at all. I had to do that for mine also. I also had to modify my coolant overflow tank - the filler cap was in the way.
and, once the screen is in place, and the hood closed - you rarely see the radiatior fan - just to dark.

quote Originally posted by AquaHusky: I love the vent, but cringe at the thought of cutting that wall. But, that is a rally nice looking vent. I would hate to make this decision if I had to. But, thankfully, my Fiero isn't that fast. Maybe 110... down hill... being pushed...

The design was a compromise between function, looks, & ease of installation. I thought it more important to look *really* nice, fitting the design & shape of the car & hood. For that I compromised the size of the opening, & the ease of installation. The spare tire still fits, & the opening could always be cut out more for better airflow (the sides of the opening turn in, & the hole could be cut back further as well) if someone wanted maximun venting. I also plan to vent the fenders for the same purpose, although the vent as is works fine for most street cars (I'm thinking up to ~140 MPH). I've never seen my lights come up at all or felt any kind of lightness in the frontend when testing my car, & I've had it up pretty near topend with the stock V6 & huge rear tires. I'll let you know more after I put in the 300+ HP 283 & the overdrive. :-)
FieroFinatic: PM me. I plan to make more parts/molds in the near future, & when doing so I could make some more vents. $150 + shipping: check your local autobody supply for the price of SMC bonding/filler. (make *sure* it's made for SMC fiberglass). I have one inquery already & I'll add folks to the list in the order that I'm contacted with serious intentions.
The prototype vent & my other mods (so far) can be seen at https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/061103.html (the black & primer car).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.

Looks good. Get some pics up after you get it painted. I'm definatly interested in possibly making a purchase.

question. does putting those vents on prevent you from putting the sunroof glass in its holder?

quote Originally posted by Unsafe At Any Speed: Looks good. Get some pics up after you get it painted. I'm definatly interested in possibly making a purchase.

Mine is black in the link I posted above.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

You just shot an unarmed man!
"Well, he should have armed himself."

What prevents raain, snow, from going down inside?

I second the question....Can you still place your sunroof under the front hood?

quote Originally posted by Knight: I second the question....Can you still place your sunroof under the front hood?

I'll check on that & get back to you. While the black car does not have one, I plan to run one after I install the 283 as I won't be running AC. (Never cared for AC anyway & I don't do much driving in city/heavy traffic in the summertime.) I don't see why it would be a problem but I'll check to make sure.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

If you can't take the heat, get out of the nuclear reactor.

How much was the scoop, where did u purchase it & after installitation how much do u think everything cost.

The scoop $150 + $30 S&H + 67.43 for the fiber tech and Norton Speedgrip total= $ 247.43
and aprox 8 hours of my time

quote Originally posted by Scott Kimball: How much was the scoop, where did u purchase it & after installitation how much do u think everything cost. The scoop $150 + $30 S&H + 67.43 for the fiber tech and Norton Speedgrip total= $ 247.43 and aprox 8 hours of my time

On the shipping...
I didn't have a box so I thought I'd just buy one at the post office. Well they didn't have one the right size, but they told me to just push it in one of their boxes *flat*, & they taped it up (neither of us had a box knife). Then they measured it & told me the outragous shipping (for an oversize package)! Scott had sent me some $$ to ship it priority, so I went ahead & sent it. I told him about it but not to bother sending any more money, but he sent it anyway. Nice guy! (he must have known how poor I am :-)
Shipping should be around $10 for the cotinental US - I'll *make* the box in advance next time.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Hey old man, have you lived here all your life?
"Nope - not yet."

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 01-27-2007).]

I have been waiting for something like this for years !!
one question...
if the front wall is cut..

what keeps rain or water from getting in the front compartment ? I dont
see a seal there or is it just missing ? fabricating a brace and adding
a seal is no big deal..

add me to the list please
thanks

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87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6
Bully Stage 2 clutch
Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner
Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump
LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system
T31/T04B S4 turbo with a Super T61 in the box
S10 caliper conversion.
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

OK you're # 2 on the list. I'll email you. I'm having back problems & can't do everything else that I need to be doing, so I'm making one now as well as the mold from my VW project hood.
I haven't sealed the front compartment on the black car, since I don't plan to run that spaceframe anyway. But I haven't seen any water in there. Also there is a small hole for drainage below the spare. I do plan to add a rubber seal when I do the permanent mod, if for nothing else than to look finished.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Pardon my driving; I'm reloading.

nudge

OK I found some expanded aluminum (finaly!) - on ebay of all places....
They have a website, though: http://www.autodirectsave.com/ . What I got, & in my opnion looks best, was their expanded aluminum with 1/4" holes. They have pics & refer to it as their "Aluminum Mesh C" on the site. I only saw 12" x 48" on their site but I bought a 6" x 36" from them on ebay (which I believe is more than enough for the hood vent & the 2 forward louvers on my sail panels). My louvered sail panels can be seen at https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/061103.html (the black & primer Formula).
Tell them Paul Angel sent you. :-)
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

quote Originally posted by Scott Kimball:

it looks to me like there is no need to cut the front trunk wall. it coulf just be the picture, but it looks like if you had only removed the top layer and then shaved back the bar that the seal presses on that the scoop would have fit. can you stick a straight edge like a ruller across the cut out area where the seal goes?

The trunk rubber runs in front of the raised (or lowered) area that I think you're looking at. You don't have to cut much out of the trunk wall though: I cut out the entire curved area in front of the tire & replaced it with flat sheetmetal just for looks. Once I transfer the body panels to the other car, I'll take some pics of the area I cut out in it (& check the sunroof thing too).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

It's been so long since I've had sex, I can't remember who gets tied up.

bump for an update ?

I second that notion. Are you making these yet? -Jason

I've made the two for the two folks that asked for one. What I do is make one (if there is someone who asks) when I make other molds/parts. Since I have about 10 other molds/parts to make, I can make more if needed. I need to make the molds from the black car ( https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-1-061103.html ) & I'm also working on doorskins & fenders sans molding grooves, as well as my VW Cabriolet hood & a rear bumper filler for '73/'74 Plymouth Satelites.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

You braggin' or complainin'?

Got my vent from paul last week !
the quality is better than most fiberglass pieces I've seen from the "experts"!
this is going to be one of the most fun projects !!!

thanks again to Scott for the awsum post
and to Paul for the vent... If i do anything different (grins evily) I will post pics hehe

[This message has been edited by vortecfiero (edited 07-02-2007).]

Anyone want a vent? I just got one back from a "friend" that never paid. I've contacted two people that *said* they wanted one but they have not gotten back to me. First person to email or PM me gets it: $150 + $20 shipping - MUST be a POSTAL money order.
You can email me at ImThaDriver at yahoo.
Thanks,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Every day of my life forces me to add to the list of people that can kiss my ass.

Looking good!

Paul i beleave later on in the year you and me are going to do business on one of these. Thats the exact scoop i want. Also how much do you charge for your door pannels with the deleted trim recession.

quote Originally posted by pontiackid86: Paul i beleave later on in the year you and me are going to do business on one of these. Thats the exact scoop i want. Also how much do you charge for your door pannels with the deleted trim recession.

The door panels are not "bolt-on" pieces out of the molds. I made them without molding grooves for my custom car, so that I can make further mods. They are still "wavy" like the plastic skins I pulled the molds from (although I tried to stabilize/flatten them as much as possible). Out of the molds they don't have the clips for the torx bolts to bolt them on, & don't have the top lip that pops over the edge to keep the top straight (since they are fiberglass they may not need it - I haven't finished with them on my car to see).
In short, you'd have to do quite a bit of work to use them & make them look really good. They are not for the person that wants to bolt on an aftermarket part. (I build custom cars & am not really in the business of aftermarket parts.)
Having said all that, I can make a set for $300 + shipping. Doing all the other work myself will add to the cost (& I don't have the torx clips to 'glass into them, or extra door frames for a jig to do so).
If you still want them PM me when you're ready.
Thanks,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: The door panels are not "bolt-on" pieces out of the molds. I made them without molding grooves for my custom car, so that I can make further mods. They are still "wavy" like the plastic skins I pulled the molds from (although I tried to stabilize/flatten them as much as possible). Out of the molds they don't have the clips for the torx bolts to bolt them on, & don't have the top lip that pops over the edge to keep the top straight (since they are fiberglass they may not need it - I haven't finished with them on my car to see). In short, you'd have to do quite a bit of work to use them & make them look really good. They are not for the person that wants to bolt on an aftermarket part. (I build custom cars & am not really in the business of aftermarket parts.) Having said all that, I can make a set for $300 + shipping. Doing all the other work myself will add to the cost (& I don't have the torx clips to 'glass into them, or extra door frames for a jig to do so). If you still want them PM me when you're ready. Thanks, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Will do paul. This is going to be a little down the road but i will deffenetley get in contact with you about them.