I am finally nearing the end of Fiero Stage 1... I am tying up loose ends like this new turn signal problem. When I turn on my right (passanger) turn signal it works perfectly as it should. When I turn on my left (driver) turn signal the <= arrow comes on and stays on, no flashing. The turn light in the tailight also comes on and stays on, no flashing. The front turn signal, nothing. When I turn on the parking lights the passanger side light comes on like it should, but again the drivers side does not. If I turn on the hazard lights, the passanger side blinks fast like it should, and the drivers light blinks really dim, like the filament turns hot then dims then hot then dims, but never really emits alot of light. Tonight I replaced all the 194 side markers and the drivers side 2057, and nothing changed. Also the front sidemarkers work the same, the passanger side works perfectly, I am not sure if the drivers works at all because the sidemarker doesn't come on with the hazards does it? Also I checked every fuse under the dash and they are all good. I have a video coming soon.
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09:01 PM
PFF
System Bot
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
That is a typical ground problem on the front left light. You have to get the socket grounded better. Are the screws holding the light tight. They like to work loose. Can't remember if there is also a ground wire don't remember there being one.
The reason you might see it come on dim is because the current is going thru both the turn and market light filiments because there is no ground for the socket. .
Turn the turn signal on and try pushing on the light fixture in the front bumper and see if it makes any difference.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-22-2007).]
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09:20 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
Good idea I will try that tomorrow, I think this problem arouse after I changed to my clear housing I remember pulling on the drivers side a bit, where are the grounds?
Hmmm well I can try to tighten them alot more, maybe I will throw a metal washer or something in there for good measure. But I am pretty sure the screw screws into a plastic insert which doesn't seem like a ground. Ideas?
I know on my 85GT the turn signal housing screws onto the metal bumper frame behind the egg crate and not to plastic. BTY nice looking White GT. I'm painting my 85Gt white in a few weeks.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-23-2007).]
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01:47 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
I went out and moved my car, I turned on the parking lights and the drivers side still doesn't come on (I haven't changed anything so that was expected) I then made sure the plastic housing was screwed in tight. It is, I then got under the front bumper and the metal bracket that the plastic housing screws too is bolted in tight. Then I pushed on the housing, nothing. Then I turned off the parking lights and got in the car. I had the stereo on, and the door open. So 2 speakers, and a dome light were on. If I stabbed the brakes the AJAR light would dim and the GT guages would flutter. This seems like its a grounding problem, does anyone have an idea.
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03:27 PM
PFF
System Bot
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
I got the info off of the Fiero Sails website, only took about 45 min to do. Just swap the 2 wires on the sensor and the 2 behind the gauge cluster and all is well. Oh, forgot to mention to hit the top of the cluster to get the needle back down.
[This message has been edited by Lounge Daddy (edited 08-23-2007).]
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07:06 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
i watched your video. as said before the bulb in the front left light is not grounded. notice how it would dimly blink opposite of the right side when hazard lights were on.
and it dimly came on after you turned the head lights off. that's because the power for the turn signal is coming in to the bulb through the contact for the big filament and then out through the little filament to the rest of the parking lights in the car. when it should be going out the grounded base of the bulb.
take the bulb out of the socket. there should be 3 metal contacts in there. 2 in the bottom and one in the side. the one in the side is the ground.
the one in the side is kinda shaped like the capital letter "D" with the flat part against the side of the socket and then the rounded part is supposed to hold pressure against the side of the bulb for contact.
there is the possibility that the round part has broken away.
maybe looking in the socket of the right bulb will show you what is missing.
if the socket is good then you have a problem with the ground wire.
. i've got to run out to grab dinner and then change the AC hose on a 87GT but i'll check back in this thread later tonight.
[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 08-23-2007).]
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07:29 PM
Lounge Daddy Member
Posts: 265 From: Kingsford, MI Registered: Aug 2002
Okay, so today I put the new bulb in the housing that was working and put that old bulb from the working housing in the non working housing to check and see if my $.40 autozone bulb was bad, it was not. I checked the insides of both of the bulb connectors and they looked the same. There was some junk on the ground prong on the side that doesn't work, so I sanded it to shiny new metal. Still it doesn't work. Everything worked fine until I changed the turn signal lenses and housings (the plastic part) is it possilbe I tugged the ground out? I looked in there and what the car does is the blue and black power wires combine with the ground wire in a peice of convoluted tubing and run inside the car, under the headlight, so mine do not ground to the bracket the housing mounts too. Inside I could see the blue and black wires came out and ran into a larger peice of convoluted tubing that runs inside the car. The ground kind of went off and I couldn't see where it goes. Any ideas? My next course of action is to take out the headlight and motor and follow the ground, but I have to go out to lunch right now.
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02:43 PM
PFF
System Bot
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13602 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
if you have a test light, you can check the ground inside the socket.
i'm really expecting the problem to be in the socket. the part of the ground inside the socket that you had to clean up. does it look like it's bowed out enough to actually touch the base of the bulb?
I think the ground wire connects to the ground screw that is on the inside of the fender next to the headlight bucket. Look down the side of the bucket and you will see it in the middle of that inner fender area. There should be two or three wires on the ground screw.
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11:41 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
Yeah it sticks out plenty far, I even cleaned the positive points in the bottom of the connector. Its dark again, tomorrow I am going to work on my CRX intake and the turn signals.
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11:48 PM
Aug 26th, 2007
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
Today I pulled the drivers headlight, and found where the two ground wires connect to the body. They were coated in ziebart, I unscrewed them and took them off. Oily crap was in there. I sanded them clean on both sides, cleaned the screw, and even roughed up the sheet metal on th body. I started up the car and turned on the left turn signal, it flashes now, but really slow. The passanger side still works fine. I didn't try the parking lights or the hazards. Is it possible this is because I have an OEM bulb in the drivers side and a custom chromium or some autozone crap in the passanger side (it used to be vice versa). I have two brand new identical "special" bulbs coming in soon. Working on getting a video up of the current state.
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03:26 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
The brightness seems to look the same on both side on the front. the bulbs you put in are filiment type and not LED or something different?
Usually flash speed on a regular flasher unit is determined by the lamp load. The more load the faster it flashes. since the one front and two back are flashing you seem to have them all working so why the load difference. The type of blub is the only thing I can see that might make a difference as long a brightness is the same on both sides.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-26-2007).]
Do you have the stock flasher unit? I bought one of those electronic ones for $10 and it works like a champ. I do have the same type bulb on both sides though. Might want to switch bulbs to the standard ones just to rule them out as a problem.
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07:38 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
I have a standard one in the drivers side and a custom one in the passanger side. I have had them both ways and it didn't change. Tomorrow I can put the other stock one back in. All these problems arouse after I did the "everyone with a V6 please read" ground strap. Also, the drivers side will flash slowly but if you turn on the headlights it goes out entirely, the back will still work slowly but the front is done. My friend will be hosting a new video tonight. Please elaborate on this electric 410 flasher, if it is tough wiring but will be a fix I don't care I will do it. I need this fixed in 2 weeks.
The stock flasher is a thermal unit meaning it uses heat to activate the blinker. They are cheap and do a pretty good job when new. The electronic unit does not rely on heat and is more reliable. You find it by the fuses and bulbs at the auto parts store. Rock Auto actually lists it for $5.12. I paid about $10 at Advance Auto. You can also get the electronic flasher in a LOUD version. lol
[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 08-26-2007).]
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09:11 PM
PFF
System Bot
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5233 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
As was stated before, you have a ground issue to the light. The most common place that they fail in in the base of the socket. You can teat it with a test light. The repair is to replace the socket base.
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09:38 PM
Aug 27th, 2007
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13602 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
I had the same issue about a month ago (except it was on the passenger side). Some part of the ground circuit inside the front bulb socket was broken, so I spliced a new socket in from my parts car and that fixed it. Try putting an ohm meter between the chassis ground and the side contact in the socket and make sure there is 0 ohms resistance. If you have anything other than 0, you have either a bad wire or a bad socket. I'm not 100% sure, but I think I've seen replacement sockets at the auto parts stores that fit.
John
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01:36 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
I've seen that electronic blinker, I think even in the sale bin, How do I wire it in? Also are the sockets on a 1986 the same as on a 1988? The only fiero in a junkyard nearby is a 1986 2m4 bumperpad, if I need to put in a new socket. If not does anyone have a socket they could cut off and send to me? Is there any reason my turn signal would randomly fail like this? The only thing I did was that ground strap, I am going to take it out later to see if that changes anything but my school starts tomorrow and I am going to be pressed for time over the next 2 weeks, and two weeks is the car show.
The electronic flasher is just a plug in replacement for your current one. It just uses electronic parts to set the flash speed instead of the lamp load making it flash. On the sockets I believe all fieros use the same sockets. Don't know about the complete light assy. but the sockets are all for same bulbs.
I had a non-working front flasher too. The parking light worked though. The socket itself had rusted out. I bought a generic one from the auto parts store and spliced in the old wiring harness. Everything works fine now. As stated before, check the resistance between your socket ground where the bulb would touch and a ground point on the chassis.
[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 08-27-2007).]
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04:46 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
So just buy a generic 2057/1157 bulb socket? Will it somehow twist into my plastic housing? I am going to call a friend to see if he has an ohm meter right now. Iwas also thinking before I buy a new socket, I could try cutting off the ground wire at the socket, splicing in some new wire and finding a new ground.
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04:57 PM
Mr.PBody Member
Posts: 3172 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: Oct 2006
My friend is coming over with an ohm meter and we are going to mess with grounds. He is bringing over some brand new bulbs too. If all else fails we are going to go buy a new socket and if that doesn't work, on the night drive back from columbus I will be merging with my left arm out the window...
lol, the arm for a turn signal has been done before.....
Yes, it was a generic push and turn type 3 wire connector for the 1157 bulbs. The base has 3 tabs that line up with the slots in the housing very much like the original. I think that the generic one has 3 same size tabs where the Fiero one has 1 big and 2 little. It all worked fine though with a little tweaking.
I bet you could find one off a GM car in the junk yard since that part seems to be like my other GM cars. Too bad there are no u-pull-it yards around my house. Buying junkyard parts around here is a terrible experience.