quote Originally posted by Formula Owner: With a claimed response down to 35Hz. If that's to be believed, they're better than all the subs listed in this thread. I somehow find that hard to believe. Can someone clear this up for me?

If that's true, they're also better than 75% of the 10" subwoofers you can buy.
I tried searching for a review on them and came up empty.

About the most efficient small-box subwoofer around is made by Carver - unfortunately, it's not for car use. It has 2 long excursion 6" subwoofers (one is passive) in a sealed 9" cube running an amp maxing out at 1200 watts of power. Hmmm... maybe all you need is a power inverter...

A review of it is here http://www.avrev.com/equip/sunfire/index.html
Bob Carver's website http://www.sunfire.com/index.html

^^^

This question is slightly off topic but I figured the people posting here could point me in the right direction. I just in stalled a performance sound system in my 85 GT and I was told I needed to install a relay to make the system work with my aftermarket head unit. Can anyone tell me where i'm supposed to wire it in at? Until I get this figured out I'm using a stock tape deck and its driving me nuts.

quote Originally posted by cheapindy: This question is slightly off topic but I figured the people posting here could point me in the right direction. I just in stalled a performance sound system in my 85 GT and I was told I needed to install a relay to make the system work with my aftermarket head unit. Can anyone tell me where i'm supposed to wire it in at? Until I get this figured out I'm using a stock tape deck and its driving me nuts.

Are you using the factory amp and wiring harness? If so, there is no need for a relay. If the relay was suppose to be for the power to the amp, you can just wire this directly to your ignition source (of course this means the amp is on anytime the key is on - not that it should be a problem as I would guess that your radio is on 99% of the time the key is on).

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 03-26-2007).]

Actually, you can do it the way Mickey Moose says, but the sub will be on whenever the car is on, even if the radio is off. Here is a link (scroll down a little bit) that shows how to do it correctly; you do need a relay. It is very easy.

http://www.geocities.com/Mo...o_osg/mod.radio.html

[This message has been edited by Bigfieroman (edited 03-26-2007).]

You only need the relay if you use the power antenna output to drive the amp.

If you want to wire it so that it is only on when the deck it on, use the method that Bigfieroman posted.

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 03-26-2007).]

^^^

Thanks for the help, got the relay wired in and it sounds so much better with a cd player than it did with a stock tape deck.

Sweet!

so i was just wondering...ur talking about 5" subwoofers. so im guessing u might be using this?

im thinking of buying one of these..can u show me some pics of it...and how it fits in the fiero? does it take much to install one? thanks

quote Originally posted by FieroGT868788: so i was just wondering...ur talking about 5" subwoofers. so im guessing u might be using this? im thinking of buying one of these..can u show me some pics of it...and how it fits in the fiero? does it take much to install one? thanks

That's what I bought from Fiero Store. The sub-housing just bolts into the Fiero. If you have an 86 or newer, your heater box should already have the correct support bracket that supports the Convienience Center (chime box, flasher etc) as well as the sub-housing. I had a Dickman sub at first, but saw this thread and decided to try the Parts Express sub as mentioned by Bigfieroman. BIG improvement, especially since I am running 100 watts vs the stock amp's 20-25 watts.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-03-2007).]

quote Originally posted by fierosound: Adapter wiring harness with line output adapter and Low Pass filter. NE-7V adapter http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm PFMOD LP-1 crossover http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/...e.pl?view_product=26

Tony, question with how you hooked up the line output adaptor: did you parallel it with either the front (or rear) speakers? Looks like it only needs a left a right input vs the factory amp which uses all 4 speaker lines.

Thanks,
Tim

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: Tony, question with how you hooked up the line output adaptor: did you parallel it with either the front (or rear) speakers? Looks like it only needs a left a right input vs the factory amp which uses all 4 speaker lines.

It's just connected to the front speakers. The crossover is putting out a mono signal to the amp. If I switch the fader to full rear, I have NO bass at all. But because they are seat headrest speakers, I would never be listening to music like that anyway.

More on how it sounds here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/081182.html

wow awsum thread..
fierosound... tyvm !

i saw that site you recomended..
any sites i can check out on the doos and donts on custom door mout set ups ?

thnx again

[This message has been edited by vortecfiero (edited 04-04-2007).]

quote Originally posted by vortecfiero: any sites i can check out on the doos and donts on custom door mout set ups ? thnx again

If you are going to do door mounted speakers, check out this thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-2-071981.html

Gives a fair bit more room in the door. I also found that you do NOT have to modify the window motors, just swap them (put the driver's on the passenger side, etc) no need to cut and weld.

ok, this is something I should have mentioned earlier, but as I had no plans on stayin with the small cheap 9$ 100w woofer, I skipped over.
I repaired my original fiero store woofer, but the braid form the terminals to the speaker just keep breaking further down. since I don't have a set of braids form a quality big throw woofer handy I decided to throw the cheapy woofer back in. some bass is better than no bass.....
so I actually had a few minutes to look at this since the flurries coming down and the temps would preclude my doing any more epoxy work on my boat.

I took my cut down woofer and laid it in. I remembered it needed slightly more volume than the stock case, so I grabbed an 16"x18"x1" piece of filler and shoved it in the case. then I laid the speaker in. that's when I noticed that there are many gaps between the mounting rim and the case.(not the speaker, the frame in the case) that;s not good. the speaker in any case sealed or ported must be sealed to the sound board, which must also be sealed to the case.. I stuffed these gaps with some hi-dense foam and siliconed them in. as I had the radio on as I was reassembling, I noticed the bass seemed to improve as I plugged up each of the 8 gap areas at each corner.

after totally sealing the speaker back from the front, reinstalling the port tube, I cranked it up. nice. no popping. cranked it higher, ok it pops at full volume on the amp, so that is likely clipping. backed down to about 5/8 gain setting. remounted the unit.
flipped to mp3 cd in deck, and put on the innocente delerium dj tiesto vinyl remix. decent for blowing the cones out of most speakers. nice, got to over 75% volume before popping. tried crystal method's "trip like I do" for the bleed from the ears volume level. nice. rear view is not clear due to vibration. very slightly boomy, I should tune the port. sounds like a little boom at around 50 hz. overall, this is a home run . a 9$ woofer. no popping. stock case. proper sealing. sometimes I forget to go back and address the basics, be sure that your speaker front side is completely sealed to the case and there is no air egress except thru the port if you have one.

^^^

he he 10 days and I haven;t blown the 9$ speaker yet.... this can't be real... did loosen the rearview mirror tho...

i too ran into this problem of wanting bass from the no space to get it, my formula didnt come with a sub woffer enclouser, so i made my own, very cheap, a 20$ bass cannon from walmart, (they dont sell em anymore) it utilises a 7.25'' 4ohm 90 rms/150max sub, the cannon was 23'' in length and 7.5'' in dia. i measured the space i had to work with in the dash and i cut the tube down to size (done remember how short exactly i think it was around 9 to 10'') then i carve the side out to clear the blue dingy box and orther fuses in that bow, so the tube was round for about 2 inches and D shaped the rest of the way, no ports, it was 3 times louder than my buddys rodney dickman setup in his 87 fiero....+ i had no amp and im still looking for a very very small amp..id like 30watts..very small in size is most important

This really deserves a bump!

bump

Let me add something to this thread. We had the factory subwoofer systems in both our GTs. I installed the Rodney Dickman speakers in both systems and was not totally happy with the subwoofers. I found I could then adjust the factory subwoofer amp to fine tune it to the Dickman speaker and it sounded 100% better. You could adjust it too far and get too much booming even with the slider adjusted nearly off so you have to be very careful. Also be sure to use a non-conducting screwdiver or you can blow the amp or power off. (Guess how I know that) Now I know that next question you all will ask. Exactly how and where did you adjust it. I can exactly remeber which pair I determined were the right set but you can see in the pic several large holes. Each hole has an adjustable POT in it. Find the right 2 and you will have a sweet system.

This thing CRANKS!
http://i252.photobucket.com...ec/2007_12190009.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com...ec/2007_12190010.jpg

------------------

quote Originally posted by Bozzie: This thing CRANKS! http://i252.photobucket.com...ec/2007_12190009.jpg http://i252.photobucket.com...ec/2007_12190010.jpg

Until your passenger put their foot through it! LOL

quote Originally posted by 3.8 SC: Until your passenger put their foot through it! LOL

Yeah, really...exactly what I was thinking.