What, you have spiders smoking crack in your bumper? Oh wait...
Yeah you have to sand it down or find a different one. If you have money get one ready for paint or pay someone to sand it for you. It is the problem with flexable bumpers.
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02:08 PM
May 28th, 2006
Brian Lamberts Member
Posts: 2691 From: TUCSON AZ USA Registered: Feb 2003
It can be media blasted, and then primed with epoxy primer and then painted. I sanded them all out with an air sander and then an electric random orbital (one of them vibrator things) It was about 3 hours worth of work to get them sanded out, and then about a day to feather them. Couple of good coats of primer fixed them up.
It's a car I'm fixing for resale, btw. Which says something about how much care I'm giving it.
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11:47 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
Has to be sanded to the bare urathane. I dont like using a sander because its very easy to get the surface uneven. Lisa hand sanded hers completely bare in about 3 or 4 hours. All the bumpers I get new from dealers are primed with latex waterbase primer (its flat black). Its very flexible and only minimal scuff sanding before you paint.
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08:14 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
I'm no sanding expert, but I had a bumper that was in horrible condition and I sanded it down to the base material and made it perfectly smooth with a DA sander. If you take your time and are careful you won't make it uneven.
[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 05-29-2006).]
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11:38 PM
May 30th, 2006
Carswell...Wellscar Member
Posts: 947 From: Whitby, ON, Canada Registered: Aug 2004
Bulldog makes a stripper for urethane bumpers. Used it on my 78 Camaro rear bumper, with no problems. Don't think I would want to spray it and walk away though. Spray, wrinkle, scrape, wash, and repeat. Took about three applications.
Hey jscott, is that Corvette Electron Blue? Looks good. Just curious. I thought about going that way, but I ended up choosing Viper Blue. That's just a test hood from a parts car (I'm 100% noob at painting), I'm just now starting to strip the paint off the "real" car. (FWIW my test hood looks good in the picture, but it's full of dirt, floaties, and grit, because I was spraying outside).
What did you use to fill the bumper rail (3M? Fusor? SEM?) - and what side marker lights are you going to use? If you'll give away your secrets...
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04:43 PM
May 31st, 2006
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
AKM - Close - it's Mazda Blue. Corvette blue was my first choice, but I changed my mind at the last minute. I'm not sure what was used as fill, I didn't do the body work myself. I am using the corvette C5 markers. I have pics in my build thread...it's not a secret anymore
I was wondering what grit of sandpaper is recommented to completely remove the spider cracks in the bumper. I have a spaire one that I would like to experiment on.
I start with 180 grit until I start to see the bare urethane. Once the paint is gone and you have a somewhat smooth surface with the 180, use a good grade of primer, apply enough to be able to sand it down, then use 320/400 until you have a nice smooth surface. Don't use anything finer as the paint will not hold onto the primer surface. You don't need any special flexible primers for the covers as the paint is where the flexible qualities need to be, and if you spray a good base/clear urethane, the paint is more than flexible enough without a flex agent. If you are using enamel ( not recommended ), then the flex is needed.
Also, I'm not a fan of chemical strippers at all on our cars. I've had some bad results even with strippers that are designed for urethane covers and will never recommend stripping that way.
Mark
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[This message has been edited by Firefox (edited 08-16-2006).]