1st, does anyone have any avenues for getting the chips burnt. 2nd, need some pics of belt routings and info on any extra pulleys. 3rd, any special info on the wiring. My stepson just bought his engine and trans from a 92 Eldorado and got everything he needed for $850.00. I thought that it was a good deal. thank you in advance. dustin
IP: Logged
04:13 PM
PFF
System Bot
Capt Fiero Member
Posts: 7657 From: British Columbia, Canada Registered: Feb 2000
------------------ 85GT 5spd ,93 Eldorado 4.9 Dual O2 Custom Chip, Archie Clutch. Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything 245/50/16's Cant wait for Dyno Time and Track Results. Not Your Average 4.9 Capt Fiero Com --- My Over View Cadero Pics Delta Cam and Allante Intake Soon.
IP: Logged
04:47 PM
fierodustin_86 Member
Posts: 970 From: Joplin, Missouri Registered: Aug 2002
Thanks for the link, I havent had a chance to read it all yet but I had already saved it to my favorites. thanks again. I just got some pics downloaded from when we got the engine home.
1st, does anyone have any avenues for getting the chips burnt. 2nd, need some pics of belt routings and info on any extra pulleys. 3rd, any special info on the wiring. My stepson just bought his engine and trans from a 92 Eldorado and got everything he needed for $850.00. I thought that it was a good deal. thank you in advance. dustin
I did not use a burnt chip I am running the factory chip in the caddy ecm The way I did my belts and I made a bracket as this one for the camaero tensioner
I used the plug and play harness that is made new for the 4.9 swap. The Fiero Factory was selling them at the time but has stopped. so I liked it so much I now sell the harness for the manufacturer.
[This message has been edited by F355spider (edited 12-29-2005).]
IP: Logged
10:37 PM
paulcal Member
Posts: 2608 From: Jacksonville, Fl Registered: Oct 2002
Theres a couple of different routes you can go with the wiring, You can buy a plug and play harness for around $700, I believe F355spider is the distributor for those now or you can build your own. All the info you need is out there on Fieroaddiction.com and other sites. Lloyd (fastfiero) has great info on his site as well but I can't think of his site right now. Your going to have to fab up some mounts or you can buy those as well. Rock Crawl can burn the chip for you and recalibrate your tach. He has a really fast turn around. For the belt tensioner most people use one off a 3.4 I believe.
I see another problem you're facing if thats a caddy tranny your going to install and thats the axles. You're going to have to replace those as well. Jeffnbebrus did an outstanding thread last year on that and it tells you everything your going to need. His was a 4t60e but the same applies to any of the 4t60's I believe.
A friend of mine and I are going to be doing a pair of 4.9's later this year and for the learning experience, we plan to do everything ourselves. I think the toughest is going to be figuring out all the wiring but with all the info available out there on the web it shouldn't be too big of a headache.
Congrats on the engine purchase. Here's the one I picked up last week for my 88 notchie
It's now sitting in my garage. I've marked and removed the harness. I've also pulled off the throttle body to clean it and replace all the vacuum lines.
Looks like we will be doing our swaps around the same time!
F355, thanks for posting the pics of the belt routing. Will it work the same way without the A/C compressor? I will be dropping you an email or PM in the next couple of months about getting a new harness.
Mine came out of a 94 Sedan Deville, but has two O2 sensors. Is this correct, or was it not the original engine in the donor car?
Dustin, maybe we can swap info that we learn along the way.....
F355, thanks for posting the pics of the belt routing. Will it work the same way without the A/C compressor? I will be dropping you an email or PM in the next couple of months about getting a new harness. Gonna be a fun spring / summer
I have never done the swap without AC so I'm not much help on that one were I live AC is a must. Here are a few pics of the tack mod to swap over to the V8 It is easy if you have a soder iron. The part will come with the harness I will also get the part number for it for Radio Shack for anyone that needs it. Their might already be a thread here on how to do it.
As you can see the yellow part is the one I got to fix mine but as you can see it has no identifying marks on it more of the keep it a secret crap but as soon as I find a part number I will post it so anyone swapping any V8 will be able to fix their tach for less than a buck or two. If anyone just does not want to do it I will for them all they have to do is pay to have the part and the tach shipped to me and return postage and I will be happy to fix it for them.
IP: Logged
07:27 PM
fierodustin_86 Member
Posts: 970 From: Joplin, Missouri Registered: Aug 2002
As you can see the yellow part is the one I got to fix mine but as you can see it has no identifying marks on it more of the keep it a secret crap but as soon as I find a part number I will post it so anyone swapping any V8 will be able to fix their tach for less than a buck or two.
That would be awesome, I really need to fix my tach.
Did we ever find out the resistor #? I also need it. Thanks Mark
There is no one specific resistor value - you have to measure the resistor that is in your tach now and multipy that value by 0.75 to get the value of the new resistor. Each one will be different.
Or, you could just insert a pot and adjust it till the tach reads right - you ccan compare it to a scanner while the car is running or connect the tach up to a square wave generator (I forget the freguency that is needed for what rpm).
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 01-15-2006).]
IP: Logged
05:13 PM
Mark A. Klein Member
Posts: 608 From: Pleasantville IA Registered: Aug 2002
I have never done the swap without AC so I'm not much help on that one were I live AC is a must. Here are a few pics of the tack mod to swap over to the V8 It is easy if you have a soder iron. The part will come with the harness I will also get the part number for it for Radio Shack for anyone that needs it. Their might already be a thread here on how to do it.
As you can see the yellow part is the one I got to fix mine but as you can see it has no identifying marks on it more of the keep it a secret crap but as soon as I find a part number I will post it so anyone swapping any V8 will be able to fix their tach for less than a buck or two. If anyone just does not want to do it I will for them all they have to do is pay to have the part and the tach shipped to me and return postage and I will be happy to fix it for them.
F355 do you have to part number or the resistance for the resister for recalibrating the tach?
IP: Logged
02:58 AM
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7501 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
Originally posted by Mark A. Klein: My car is a 4 cyl. so should I change the resistance to .5? Thanks Mark
Yes
quote
Originally posted by fierodustin_86: F355 do you have to part number or the resistance for the resister for recalibrating the tach?
See my post above - there is NO specific resistor value as each tach is different, you have to calculated it out... BTW the picture you posted is NOT the resistor - that is the capacitor that some people modify...
F355 do you have to part number or the resistance for the resister for recalibrating the tach?
There are a couple of ways to recalibrate the tach...resistor change, capacitor change or both. What F355 has shown is the capacitor. I have yet to see the proper value for the cap needed for a V8. I have modified mine twice and it's still not right. I think some of it has to do with what type of V8 you are swapping in, (Distributor, DIS, etc).
A better way to do it is a variable resistor and a scanner that way you can adjust it until it is perfect, (or at least really close).