I am looking for a paint gun, I was told to just spend as much as I can on the nicest gun I could get in my budget? USA made and look for a production style gun. I am asking you guys that know paint, gravity feed or not, what are a few good names to look into, and what are some of the small littie things to look for such as.....hand feel or a triger feel?

I did find a pair of Titan HVLP guns, one with a 1.4mm tip for lighter coats and the second has a tip of 1.7mm I was going to use for primer or base coats when I do pearls, it has 1/4" air inlet, and 15-45 PSI, an Average air consumption of 7.0 to 9.0 CFM. They also have a gauge regulator. And a 1 liter aluminum gravity feed paint cup. The price is $130.

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

I'm not familiar with Titan, so I really don't know what kind of quality they are. I have 3 guns. A DeVillbis, a Sharpe, and a Binks. I like all three, and each has a little different tip. If you are buying the gun from a paint dealer, they can explain the differences in the different brands and quality levels. But, just for dollor information, my main paint gun is the DeVillbis HVLP and I paid roughly $160 for it.

Mark

Thanks Mark, I have got and watched the 2 tapes I ordered from House of Kolor and they were old but did help with a few questions I had. I will write you soon with a few others that did get answered. Also I did take notes while watching the tapes and I will post them after I rewrite them soon.

P.S. all joking aside sorry to see your Green Bay tean not do so good today. GO COLTS!!!

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

pm sent

I have Binks, Accuspray, DeVelbiss and a few off brands. Mine all ranged from $40 to $400 each. I do a lot of my repair painting with the $40 off brand with no problems. I use each one for the purpose that works best. For example the Accuspray does all over solid colors best and I always use it for clearcoat because it uses so little material for a good job. I just done an all over pearl job on the vette with less than a quart of paint, quart of clear. Total cost for the 3 stage pearI R&M urathane job was about $75. I like DeVelbiss for metallic colors because they dont pattern as much (mottle). I use Binks for primer because its got a bigger tip for thicker material.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-10-2005).]

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I have Binks, Accuspray, DeVelbiss and a few off brands. Mine all ranged from $40 to $400 each. I do a lot of my repair painting with the $40 off brand with no problems. I use each one for the purpose that works best. For example the Accuspray does all over solid colors best and I always use it for clearcoat because it uses so little material for a good job. I just done an all over pearl job on the vette with less than a quart of paint, quart of clear. Total cost for the 3 stage pearI R&M urathane job was about $75. I like DeVelbiss for metallic colors because they dont pattern as much (mottle). I use Binks for primer because its got a bigger tip for thicker material.

Roger is your DeVelbiss and Accuspray and bottom feed or graveity feed gun?

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

All of mine but the other brands are siphon type. I dont really like gravity (HVLP)ones except for spotting in small damaged areas so i dont have to mix much paint. I can buy a 1/4 pint of paint from my supplier and a lot i get is like a corner of a bumper, or a door ding. My Accuspray HVLP has one hell of a material transfer rate. I can put up to 3 coats on a whole car with one quart with almost no overspray. I seldom even have to turn on an exhaust fan, its just not necessary. My Binks primer gun and DeVilbiss guns are old style syphon types not HVLP...ots of overspray, but nicer pattern for metallics.

Roger, I geard to opps. that the gravity feed guns are better for met. and pearls? The HVLP gravity feed Accuspray gun you have I take it it has a quart size can on it since you are getting around 3 coats with it?

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

No the Accuspray is NOT a gravity feed. Its a syphon 'type' gun. Its upright like older guns with a quart cup that screws on and seals to the bottom of the gun head. There is no venting, it is an HVLP gun thats similar to a pressure gun. It uses the air pressure (up to 10 pnds) to 'pressurize the cup forcing the material up the tube and out the head. This pressure is increased so much coming out the nozzle its 'atomized' into fine particals. There is a LOT more raw material coming out than air. Kind of hard to describe but think of a normal gun using air to pull out the reduced paint by suction due to the way air flows out of the cap. So you get a mixture of air and tiny particals of paint mixed when it hits the surface your painting. This gun works more like a squirt gun where the inside volume of paint is pressurized and forced out of a series of small openings and coating the surface with a mist of fine 'globs'. It takes a lot of practice to get the feel of spraying all these globs so that after they hit the surface they flatten and spread out like melting butter. Very easy to go one way with lots of orange peel or other way of making it run. They are an expensive gun. Mines list price was $575. but my shop cost was around $400.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-10-2005).]

PPG & Dupont have there own style candy pearls? What is it you don't like about HOK, just not durable or how it sprays on?
I have also desided I am willing to spend up to $150 on a good gun or a good set?

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

[This message has been edited by GSXRBOBBY (edited 01-10-2005).]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a semi-related question.

I have an airless spray gun I bought years ago and never used. Could I use something like that to do a decent paint job? That is, one that looked all right from fifteen or twenty feet? Or am I better off with rattle cans?

Paint is the last thing I'm going to do on my project car, but it's something I want to learn how to do, even if it's just to make the car look "okay" until I can get a pro paint job.

Thanks!

Ed

I got a do-it-yourself view from House of Kolor and durning the tape I took a few noted and I was hoping you guys could look them over and pick it apart if needed?

AIR SYSTEM:
Using a 60 gallon 5 H.P. air compressor is a min. for a good booth. Having a 6" to 10"

long 500 P.S.I. flexible braided steel tube between the air compressor and the main lines

is a good idea sice the air tank does shake alot when turned on. Do not have a regulator

mount inline just after it comes from the tank, its a waste. It will be to much for it and

will most likely fail within 4 to 6 years. Having a shut off valve there is a great ideal so

the complete system does not have to be drained durning any normal maintenance that

is required. A 1-1/2" to 3/4" main is ideal, nothing smaller then 3/4" should be used. I

have been told not to use any type of plastic pipe should be used, galvanized steel is the

best since it does not rust. After the shut off valve have the steel line go straight up to

the top of the ceiling. As the main line moves away from the tank around the shop have

it slowly slope down hill away from the tank with a release valve on the end of the

system. That way any water or oil that does get trapped in the line does not go back

into the air tank and start to rust the bottom of the air tank.

An air dryer mounts at the beginning of the system just after the air compressor. This is

a great idea, however they are alot of money to buy and keep up. But they are ideal!

At every station or every outlet place a "T" there on the main. Have the "T" opening

point up instead of down, that way each outlet will pull air from the top of the main and

have a better chance of not removing water or oil at the location. Having the "T" there

should then go into a 1/2" feeder line also galvanized steel. Have a straight 90 degree

angle connect into another straight 90 degree angle that way it loops and points straight

down. Have the feeder tube also long as needed for that area. Also have a shut off at

each station /outlet for safety.

Before setting up the system plain ahead, plain for additional equipment they maybe

bought in the near future that may require an air supply or move an item that needs a air

supply away from an outlet. Keep the threads as clean as possible from the time they

are bought. When installing the system clean the threads with an acetone and then use a

vanish type sealer (gasoilia), let it set up for at least 24 hours.

SPRAY GUN:
I have been told to buy U.S.A., they are one of the last few things made here that are

still just made better than overseas. I was also told to buy the most expensive gun you

can afford. This was the last place to try and save money. Also try to buy production

style guns, they are made to be used.
1.) A gravity feed gun is great for metallic and pearls.
2.) A smaller gun with the triger on the top but larger than an air brush gun is a touch up

gun and is good for hard to reach areas.
3.) A Pressure pot gun is a larger can that can hook on a belt and has hoses coming off

to a smaller gun, this gun holds 2 quarts and is great for larger jobs.
4.) A standard style gun with the paint can on the bottom should be comfortable to

your hand. They are more popular with guys that have been painting for awhile.
5.) 1.4mm needle and nozzle is set for lighter coats such as high quality base or

clear-coat application. A 1.7mm needle and nozzle set is for heavier applications using

primers an dbody fillers
6.) Most new guns sold toady has a locking pressure regulator with a gauge.

MAINTAIN A GUN:
1.) Clean it very well, if done right you should be able to tell what color was last used.

Be sure the tips and under the cap has all build up removed. This maybe needed durning

a larger job.
2.) Leave a small amount of thinner in the can when the gun is being stored, it helps the

gaskets from drying up.
3.) When a good gun is bought it should come with a diagram, keep it to help when

rebuilding is needed or repairs are needed.
4.) Gun should be hung out of the way so it is not damaged. Be sure to take extra care

of your gun, don't bang it around or have any other air tools stored with it so a chance

of damage to the tip and cap does not happen.

SAFETY:
To start I will go from head to toe to make it easier.
Eye protection is important and if you wear eye glasses a full mask maybe better for

you. Otherwise, use a clear safety glasses that covers and are close to the face.

The one of the better masks on the market right now is a double charcoal filter with

pre-filter. This mask is good when using both lacquer and enamels. A prefilter is a small

pad that gets most of the larger over spray and dust and should be changed every full

paint job.
House of Kolor like TC-23
A paper suit is a good idea, there are no small pieces of fuzz to fall onto your work.

You don't ruin your our clothes and painting a car is hard work. You get hot and sweat

and most paper suits breath well to allow air in and out of the suit.
After the car is sanded and preped, you should not touch the car with your bare hands

or skin. Your skin puts off oils that will ruin all of your hard work. Use rubber gloves,

the kind doctors use, so they are tight and almost like extra skin, and you just throw

them away when done.

PREP:
First thing I have been told to NOT paint under 70 degrees. So paint in the winter

months are not easy if you can not keep the booth warm enough fo rthe full paint job.

The room temp needs to be at 70 degrees plus for at least 2 hours if not more so the

surface you are painting will be as warm as the booth air. Then keeping it warm durning

the shooting without a gas style heater "open flames" is not so easy if the booth is not

well insulated. The booth also needs to stay at the temp for 24 hours durning the curing

time of the paint.

Poor preparation can cause future topcoats to fail! Be sure to sand the original finish

well. Using House of Kolors KP-2CF or KP-21 catalyzed primer will give you a nice

start. I was told it will cover body work done and will fill in up to 80 grit scratches.

Before any sanding is done:
A) Use HOK's KC-10 wax and Grease remover to remove any tar, wax, or grease is

needed.
B) Grind away paint and primer in the area requiring body work.
C) Be sure your bare hands or skin never makes contact with the panels. Your skin puts

off a body oil. Keep a clean rag between you and the panel at all times.
D) Use power tools to get near the repaired areas. Then block sand, keep the block

front to rear, but crossing to prevent flat spots.
E) Allow proper cure times to prevent shinkage.
F) Final sand the primer with 320-400 grit sandpaper.

Before spraying primer wipe down the panel and then dry them as you move along.

Then use a tack cloth and wipe down all panels geting primer.

*When using House of Kolor only use House of Kolor products.

PRIMER:
When your prep work is completed and all repairs are done then your ready to start

with your primer. Don't ever think your coats of primer is a fix all. I have been told alot

of people leave pits and scratches thinking that the primer will fill those in, don't think

that way. When you start to prime your first couple of coats may fill in very small

scratches but never count on it. Try to be ahead of your self instead of tring to caught

up!
Before you start be sure the panels are all wiped down with a wet cloth and dry as you

move on, and again always use a tack cloth afterwards.
Wet the floor to help keep down dust and over spray does not stick to the floor. Don't

wet the car!
Most primers are a 2 part mix, like House of Kolor has a part A and a part B. 16 oz. of

each, mix well and use a filter/ screen when pouring it into the can. Let it set up for 30

mins. before shooting. The HOK primers are a 70% solid that will allow you to fill in

smaller scratches.
When mixing never use a cheap lacquer!
And a 10% reducer is good.
The first coat should be put on light so there is no worry of it running and making sure it

stick to the bare panel.
Apply 3 coats is about standard, the second should have alot of it covered.
Apply 2 extra coats over and near repaired areas.
When spraying a 50% over lap is best.
Lacquer primer and lacquer body fillers don't work well on bare metals.
* Keep the gun parallel when spraying! Otherwise you will make lines in the paint due to

the heavier areas you will leave. Also, be sure to do straight lines, never follow the

body lines.
When you are start spraying, start on the middle of the roof, go front to back and then

back to front with a 50% over lap. leave the midle light not to apply to much when you

restart on the over side. From the middle work back toward you, spray to the bottom

of the door window. Go around to the otherside and do the same. Then start on the

hood, start in the middle "light" work back to the end of the hood, do the other side.

Then do the front bumper move to the rear trunk lid then do the rear bumper.
When doing the sides walk the car, its harder but it lays nicer and a lot more even. Just

be sure to go slow and keep the gun even. Also keep your knees bent it helps your hand

from bouncing.
Always allow flash time between coats, a good flash time is about 20 mins.
After you have laid the coats for primer and the car is covered evenly, be sure to light

spots or missed areas are on the car anywhere. Using a different color "lighter then you

main color" makes it user to see what was sprayed and what may have been missed.

Example: when you use a matching color primer its hard to be sure what has been

sprayed when covering with the same color.

After the primer is done, wet sand the primer with 320-400 grit sandpaper.
DO NOT sand the primer coats in your booth!
Wash the car down with a wet cloth and dry as you move along. Then use a tack cloth

and wipe down the entire car.
A.) Don't use to much water, you have the risk of water getting into small areas and not

getting it completely dried before moving on to the next step.
B.) When you open the tack cloth open it, unfold it and let set for 15 to 20 mins.
C.) Be sure you don't have bleeding or staining. If you do a sealer maybe needed!

BASE:
When using candy type colors a base is needed between the primer and the candy

color, the base is what gives the color or the shade is frm the base. A darker base gives

alot darker candy color, a candy is somewhat transparent.
Again wet the floor to help keep dust down.
Strain the material as it goes into the gun can after mixing.
Be sure to mix the base just as its needed, follow the label instructions!
Most bases are a 2 part material and 1 part reducer. Always mix well and allow its

setup time.
Do not use full trigger pull, keep the gun 6" to 8" away, apply using a 50% over lap.
If you allow the primer to completely dry let it dry for 24 hours before wet sanding and

moving on.
Your first coat should be light and a dry coat to help it not run.

PAINT:
After the base is laid down move onto the color or candy within 30 to 40 mins.

Allowing the flash time but not allowing it to dry. If it does dry allow it to completely

dry and set up for 24 hours, wet sand, wash and dry, then clean with a tack cloth again.
Otherwise, start with a light dry coat with a 75% over lap.
Have the gun fan wide open.
The first coat, "put the trigger all the way in and then turn it out 1-1/2 to 2 turns". Each

coat give it a small turn "1/2 to 1" turn depending on the gun to allow more material to

come out as you move along on the next coat.
A urethane enamel is the best for when spraying candy colors.
Again be sure the center is light so when you restart on the other side so its not to build

up in the middle.
When spraying candy colors:
A.) DO NOT arch, be sure to reach to keep your lines straight!
B.) DO NOT watch the gun as you are painting, painting is a hand-eye operation! Candy

color must stay straight lined!
C.) DO NOT follow body lines, just make straight lines---PERIOD!!!
D.) Keep your knees bent, it help you not bounce your hand.
E.) Allow flash time between coats.

The reducer you use will help you or go against you, they have fast, med. or slow

drying reducers on the market.

5 coats of candy is about right, 3 coats min., just start with a slow dry coat so it

doesn't run. when you think you have it all covered do one extra coat to be sure.

CLEAR:
DO NOT WET SAND BETWEEN THE COLOR COATS AND THE CLEAR COATS

Again wipe down the car with a damp cloth and dry as you move along, then use a tack

cloth to wipe down all of the areas getting paint. Do not ever allow bare skin to touch

the surface your painting. Use rubber medical gloves.
*remask the car before you move on, helps keep dust down.
Then you can start to add your clear. Be sure it is mixed well and allowed for any set up

time needed.
Apply the clear the same way you applied the other materials. Keep the gun about 6" to

8" away from the panel, keep the gun parallel with the panel you are shooting at all

times. Use a 50% over lap.
Between 3 to 5 coats are fine, I have heard of guys appling more thinking it gives a

deeper shine. I was told different.

FINISH:
Let paint set up for over 24 hours at 70 degrees or more.
Balsa wood is soft and will bend nice to the curves of the body whenyou wet sand.

Always wet sand the clear to help remove dust parts and any lint that has drifted on to

the paint.
When you wet sand do not cross from one panel to the other, do them each at one time

to help not burn corners and go through material.
Wet sand with 1500 grit and a small amount of Ivory liquid.
Allow sand paper to soak in water for 15 to 20 mins.
Buff with a liquid buffer compound first.
McGuires #5 for the second.
Always change pads between compounds.

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

[This message has been edited by GSXRBOBBY (edited 01-11-2005).]

I like the write up, but it sounds like this was written back in the days of lacquer paint. They tell you to wet-sand after the candy color but before the clear, and that's a no-no with urethane paints. A lot of great info, and aside from some typos and a couple of very minor details, a good list.

Mark

------------------

I did reread for typo's sorry Mark! I guess I will be the first to say I am not so good at spelling. But then again your the first so that makes me the second! haha

Please Mark if you would fix what is wrong! I did get 2 tapes from them, the first was from 1986 and you could see that it was updated here and there but I see it is not complete. The second tape was from 1997 and did show a few things different.

1.) Don't wet sand after the color and before the clear coat.
2.)

All joking aside I do value your thoughts Mark!!!

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

quote Originally posted by GSXRBOBBY: I did reread for typo's sorry Mark! I guess I will be the first to say I am not so good at spelling. But then again your the first so that makes me the second! haha Please Mark if you would fix what is wrong! I did get 2 tapes from them, the first was from 1986 and you could see that it was updated here and there but I see it is not complete. The second tape was from 1997 and did show a few things different. 1.) Don't wet sand after the color and before the clear coat. 2.) All joking aside I do value your thoughts Mark!!!

I'm not the best speller either, so don't worry......with all that typing, you did great. I would have made many mistakes. The 2nd thing I personally didn't like was the spray pattern they use. They say to do the roof, then the hood/front bumper, then the rear deck/bumper, then each side. I was taught to do the roof first, then start at the edge of the drivers door and circle the car counter/clockwise, doing the drivers fender last. This way the hood is almost the last panel to get sprayed and you won't have the overspray dust settling on the hood while painting the rest of the car. It's always worked well for me, but that's how I was taught. There are certainly different ways to spray, and my method isn't the 'right' way....just one way.

Mark

------------------

No but its a good idea! Starting from the highest point and working down is a good idea though right? Not that it really matters to most of us since the Fiero is a great car to do a panel off paint job on.

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

The way I do an all over is driver fender first, then that side of hood, nose, other side of hood, other fender. pass doors, that side of roof, then around to driver door and other side of roof, then driver qtr, across deck lid, rear panels, pass qtr. I dont like overspray landing on hood before i wet it.

Ive been using laquer primer on and under everything for 40 years with no problem whatever.

House of Kolor dont seem to dry clear thru to me. Several I have done over the years still seemed soft in the under layers even years later and gummed up sandpaper when doing a new paint job. (ive done lots of show cars that get new, different paint jobs every few years) Their clear is terrible, have gotten lots of cracks that you can feel with your fingernail, and if you have a white car, it really tends to yellow with age.

My lines on my compressor consist of all rubber line. about 20' from compressor to the trap/regulator, then some 50' lines. DONT use an oiler in lines for painting. I put oil directly into tools instead.

I keep my shop over 70 all the time. A friend who does restorations heats his shop during the day, paints in the late afternoon and shuts his heat completely off at nite, even in winter. He has no problems with paint curing. He just lets them dry an extra day before he buffs it. The panels should not feel cold to touch when you paint them. You should also use the correct reducer for the temp of the room you painting in. I always use fastest reducers myself to help reduce dust. I rarely wet sand anything prior to painting, it sometimes takes days for any water to dry out in hidden places even if you blow it dry. After tacking a car, I go back over it lightly after a few minutes with air blower to get anything that was floating around in room while i tacked it. Ground the car by laying a chain over the frame down to the floor so it wont attract dust. Just the act of spraying will create a static electricity in the air.

I have heard of guy grounding a car but I thought that was just for enamels?
Now Roger and Mark is there any little tricks when doing panel off jobs, since I am filling in the trim on my 86 GT the panels have to stay on but other Fiero I am looking to do I was thinking about doing panel off paint jobs. What do you think, is it worth it?

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

i've only sprayed one car but I have two cheap guns from harbor freight.. a large gravity feed hvlp and a smaller detail gun with the screw on bottom cup.. the gravity gun does large areas well and the smaller gun puts out a slightly smaller spray pattern good for anything from door panels to all around touchup

what i did was took all the panels off and spray the first primer and first coat - then installed and did a finish coat to even them all out

edit - this would have been a little better http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90977

[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 01-11-2005).]

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: i've only sprayed one car but I have two cheap guns from harbor freight.. a large gravity feed hvlp and a smaller detail gun with the screw on bottom cup.. the gravity gun does large areas well and the smaller gun puts out a slightly smaller spray pattern good for anything from door panels to all around touchup what i did was took all the panels off and spray the first primer and first coat - then installed and did a finish coat to even them all out edit - this would have been a little better http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90977

Thanks for the link, I am walking out to go talk to an old friend, a guy I bought paint from before and he said he had a few things to show me?

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

I VERY rarely ever do a panel off job. Not worth the trouble to me to paint stuff you will never see. If I do, I charge more because it takes twice the space and material and I WONT take it apart or put it back together. If they scrape or scratch it assembling it, they pay me again. I only take off whats necessary. Fieros, i take off wing/ rack, marker lites, tail lights, headlite covers and emblems. If I take out windshield molding, i dont reinstall it. Customer can get a glass shop to do it and most require windshield replacement in order to do it right.

Pulling panels for a paint job is up to you. You'll get great results either way if you do a good job. There is more masking, of course, but as Roger mentioned, you don't have to worry about damaging the fresh paint while reassembling the car. It also depends on time. It does take much more time to disassemble and reassemble the car if you do a panel off, so you need to factor that in as well. If you are painting a metallic color, I highly suggest leaving the panels on because you'll probably end up having a slightly different spray pattern that will not match when you put the panels back together.

Grounding a car has nothing to do with the type of paint sprayed. The grounding keeps the static 'potential' the same between the car and the floor, thus helping to relieve the static charge that attracts dirt that's floating in the air. You'll end up with a cleaner paint job.

I have the customer replace the windshield molding, also. It really should be removed, but I'm not going to put it back.

Bobby.....when are you looking to spraying the car?

Mark....the 'other' paint guy

I am hoping to do the 86 GT in a month at the latest. I need to finish doing some body work and Joe is busy with a auto to man. trans swap. But the 86 GT is getting a basic paint job, maybe metallic. I did find a really nice dark grey metallic, one stage for $130.00 my cost a gallon. The 88 is going to be done later after it gets a little warmer just so I don't feel rushed since we are only using a kerosene heater out in the garage. Then again I need to check with Joe to see if he has anything else plained.

Why are you going to put on a free class? haha

------------------
Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

I wish I could come down and offer a free class. By the way, don't blow yourself up with the heater.

You might want to price out the base/clear paint for your first job. Single stage is good, but if you are learning to get your spray patterns down for a proper metallic spread, then you might have trouble with runs. Base color is very forgiving when it comes to spraying. You lay your paint down for color coverage and metallic consistency and do not cover for a shine. It'll be dull, but that's fine. If you make a mistake or find a little imperfection in the bodywork while spraying, you can let the base color dry for a half hour and do a little more sanding and fix it. Then, once you are happy with the color spray, the clear gets sprayed for shine. With a single stage paint, you spray for both at the same time and if you do fin those little imperfections, you cannot fix it. The single stage paint takes a good long time to dry. You might be spending a little more money, but I think you'll find that it's worth it.

Also, make sure you both have charcoal filter resperators with pre-filters. Don't kill yourselves.

If you want to come up to Milwaukee, I can do a class here for you. I've got a car coming up next week if everything pans out ok, and I get to spray a little Ferrari red. I love that color!

Mark

quote Originally posted by Firefox: I wish I could come down and offer a free class. By the way, don't blow yourself up with the heater. You might want to price out the base/clear paint for your first job. Single stage is good, but if you are learning to get your spray patterns down for a proper metallic spread, then you might have trouble with runs. Base color is very forgiving when it comes to spraying. You lay your paint down for color coverage and metallic consistency and do not cover for a shine. It'll be dull, but that's fine. If you make a mistake or find a little imperfection in the bodywork while spraying, you can let the base color dry for a half hour and do a little more sanding and fix it. Then, once you are happy with the color spray, the clear gets sprayed for shine. With a single stage paint, you spray for both at the same time and if you do fin those little imperfections, you cannot fix it. The single stage paint takes a good long time to dry. You might be spending a little more money, but I think you'll find that it's worth it. Also, make sure you both have charcoal filter resperators with pre-filters. Don't kill yourselves. If you want to come up to Milwaukee, I can do a class here for you. I've got a car coming up next week if everything pans out ok, and I get to spray a little Ferrari red. I love that color! Mark

I agree a 1 stage is harder yet easier, harder since therer is no caughting up to any mistakes , but less coats making it easier. I just think spraying a metallic 1 stage will maybe show me how a metallic likes to lay down and it will also show me if I am going to streek or stripe the job. Plus if I miss it up its only $130 to $150 out the window compared to alot more. I also know a 2 stage is alot more forgiving but again I am just looking to start by first timing myself per coat and second seeing if I can learn metallics. I think if I can do metallic I can do pearls without striping it?

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

If you do a single stage metallic, what I do after the 2-3 coats, is to mix about an inch or so of color in the cup with the rest all reducer. Then go over the whole car quickly in a totally random pattern with a wide fan. It will help even out any streaks or mottling. Its called dusting. Do it immediately after last coat. + is it starts to do a good cleanout on the gun too. Some colors streak worse than others, so it may be fine to skip this step if it looks ok when your done.

If you paint pearl colors or kandy colors, you HAVE to have it completely together or it WONT match.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-12-2005).]

Roger would you agree with my friend that if I can paint a metallic without stripping it I can paint a pearl? I am affraid to start with a candy or do it to soon, just because I have a limited budget "I'm cheap" and don't want to waste money.

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

Actually spraying 2 stage pearl is easier to me than metallics. With pearl you just put down the base color (usually solid color) and the pearl is misted on over the top..a little goes a long way. I just painted my vette pearl white. It consisted of just plain white base followed by a couple of misted on silvery white pearl then clear.

Kandy colors are a whole different game. Dont even attempt Kandies till your experienced with lots of practice. Just one pass with the wrong overlap can ruin a job so bad, you have to start over with your base (silver, gold, white). There is no ' fixing ' a mistake in Kandy. ie/ a speck of lint under one of the coats is there for life staring at you...even a fingerprint will show up if you touch it before its finished cleared.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Kandy colors are a whole different game. Dont even attempt Kandies till your experienced with lots of practice. Just one pass with the wrong overlap can ruin a job so bad, you have to start over with your base (silver, gold, white). There is no ' fixing ' a mistake in Kandy. ie/ a speck of lint under one of the coats is there for life staring at you...even a fingerprint will show up if you touch it before its finished cleared.

Well said!!!

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

Sata jet was the gun it was copied after, I was told the parts from each work on each other?
I also found out that House of Kolor was bought out about 2 to 3 years ago and that is why the product has ben going down hill? So the seach continues to see how Duponts Hot Hues is to spray and how it finishes?

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

R&M (BASF) is called Carizzma, supposed to be very friendly to do-it-yourselfers.

http://www.basfrefinish.com

http://www.carizzmacolors.com/paints.htm
http://www.carizzmacolors.com/gallery.htm (tons of cool pics)

Phone for info is 800 / 825-3000

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-14-2005).]

some good info here - need a good paint source since I'll be painting my car after the tdc swap

what about my sunroofed 86 GT. I need to just paint the hood, roof, and decklid... When it comes to painting the roof where the front and rear attach to the pillars in front and the top of the rear quarters do i want to run a drop cloth and tape off those areas so as i dont get over spray on them or what...

Need advice..

pc..

I use a large plastic sheet (from auto paint supply) to cover most of what I dont want to get paint on. There made for just that purpose, one time use. Then I go around the edges of the plastic with 18" wide automotive masking paper. Its not wise to just use the plastic and paint it....it will blow or flake off from the air out of your paint gun. Paper will eliminate that. Dont use newspaper. A roll of auto masking paper is only like $10 @ roll and you can mask a dozen cars from one roll.

quote Originally posted by PCGamer: what about my sunroofed 86 GT. I need to just paint the hood, roof, and decklid... When it comes to painting the roof where the front and rear attach to the pillars in front and the top of the rear quarters do i want to run a drop cloth and tape off those areas so as i dont get over spray on them or what... Need advice.. pc..

If you are painting just the front section of the roof, then you don't have to paint the rear part of the roof that is part of the rear clip. If you need to paint the rear part of the roof that is part of the rear clip, you can try to blend your color and then clear into the sail panel areas, but I'd go and blend your color into the sail panels and then clear the entire rear clip. You might actually save time by doing it once since blending is an art and if you haven't done it before you'll probably not be happy with the results. Paint the front pillers.

Mark

I believe i may have mentioned this before in another tread but i want some more advice from you all..

Do i REALLY need to pull the windshield molding or can i just tape right over it and leave it...??? That should work right??? Again im not looking for an autoshow paint job just something nice though... Im hearing that i might end up having to replace the glass if i pull the molding and i dont have comprehensive on the car.... +++ the glass is fine.....

pc

I took mine out of the Ferrari kit when i originally painted it, the glass company put in a new windshield and replaced the same one. It came out on the freeway that summer. They replaced it with their own and a new windshield under warrarty. When I repainted it, I just taped it. When I painted Raptor, I taped it too. Its not like they were $50,000 show cars. Any paint I got on the edge came off by slipping a credit card under the edge and scraping it with a razor blade. Same goes for door dew strips.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-15-2005).]