I have an overheating problem. When driving the car heats up to about 1/4 of the coolant temp dial and stays there for a while. Then, while in traffic, it starts moving to more than 1/2 the dial until the fan comes on. Then it will quiver and stay there, more or less. If I switch on the A/C it will quickly go back to 1/4 of the dial. If I go on-highway and drive 80+ (this is Germany) it will start to go up and up even if the A/C is on.
What are the possible reasons? I have no kinks in the coolant pipes, no air in the system, my termostat works fine...
i'm no expert but i hear that turning the AC on forces the fan on. if turnng on the AC solves your problem then i'd have to guess there's something wrong with the switches or wires that control your fan. as for the highway speed issue, i'd guess youve got a flow restriction issue, maybe your radiator needs a flush? let us know what you find.
[This message has been edited by lurker (edited 01-11-2004).]
Posts: 1476 From: Kamloops, B.C., Canada Registered: Mar 2003
I believe it's an air flow issue due to the body kit. You could be creating a pressure zone under the front hood. The solution I like is at this post toward the bottom of the first page. Camero door vents installed under the hood behind the headlight assembly.
Also check your coolant level. At times a person can loose coolant through the head gaskets causing your engine to overheat. The coolant would then go into your oil. If you think that this could be a possibility, drain just about a cup of oil and see it if really is ONLY oil that comes out of there. I knew of a guy who had the same problem and ended up ripping the block down to replace the head gaskets on his own. Sorry if this scares you but it is a possibility.
Posts: 29541 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
on mine, that is normal. The thermostat is at about 1/4 on the scale, and the fan switch is at about 1/2 on the scale. The A/C swicth forces the fan on. If you want the fan to come on earlier, you will need a lower temp fan switch. Unfortunatly, most lower temp fan switches are at lower temps than the stock thermostat, so the fan will be on almost all the time. If you're not hitting 3/4 to red on the scale, your not actually overheating, just running hot.
Posts: 2799 From: Alabaster, AL USA Registered: Apr 99
All very good suggestions. I'm guessing this is a new issue on an already been driven body modification so we can put CC Riders thought on the back burner for now. Double check your belt and fluid as 1987 Trans Am has suggested. A question, how old is the water pump? If three or more years old or a lot of kms it may be time for a new one. Check your hoses and make sure none are collasped and blocking off or restriction the flow of coolant. I was having similar problems with an 86 GT and the radiator was partly clogged up. Another radiator fixed it.
Posts: 465 From: Rockford,MN,USA Registered: May 2001
First thing off change the thermostat, they're cheap here in the states. I wouldn't imagine them being to spendy there. I think there $13U.S. Like mentioned above, check coolant and that your water pump flowing enough coolant through the lines. Some aftermarket water pumps have plastic impellers that seperate from the shaft, or slips enough to fail in pumping the right volume of coolant. Make sure coolant lines are good, this includes the heater core. The cooling system needs to operate under pressure. If There is a leak anywhere, like the heater core or radiator cap, it will cause air to enter the system when the car cools and to boil over prematurely. Make sure noting is blocking the radiator. Check temp sensors, there are two I believe on for the gauge and the other for the fan/ecm. Make sure realys are ok. Worst case is a head gasket, but thats last resort. Minnesota is alot like Germany, climate wise, maybe a tad bit warmer there. Your Fiero's should be running nice and cool in cold weather. At 30F, is that 0C, maybe get a little warm in trafiic but open road you should cool right down.